Yunnan Dongchuan Red Land Travel Photography Guide: God's Forgotten Palette
God created the earth, and when he was about to finish painting it, his palette accidentally fell into the human world. God forgot, and so did everyone else.
Until one day, a plane flew over Kunming North, and a photography enthusiast happened to capture the most beautiful scenery on earth.
With his persistence in photography, the photographer searched for it many times and finally found this long-dormant red land after a long time.
Since then, Dongchuan Red Soil has become a paradise for photography enthusiasts all over the world.
About Dongchuan
The Dongchuan Red Land is located northeast of Kunming City, within the jurisdiction of Hongtu Town, Dongchuan District, Kunming. The scenic area is approximately 250 kilometers by car from Kunming, with the main attractions located between 1,800 and 2,600 meters above sea level. The red soil, developed under the high temperatures and heavy rainfall of Dongchuan, Yunnan, is rich in iron and aluminum, low in organic matter, highly acidic, and heavy in clay. This area, encompassing nearly 100 kilometers, is the most concentrated, typical, and distinctive red land on the Yunnan Red Land Plateau. Set against a backdrop of blue sky, white clouds, and ever-changing light, the scenery of the red land is spectacular. Within the scenic area stands a sand pine tree, a member of the Pinaceae family, believed to be over a thousand years old. After withering for three years, it sprouted new life. Local villagers call it the "Old Dragon Tree," a symbol of protection for the local people. As the poet approached the Old Dragon Tree site, thunder and rain suddenly erupted. Then, the clouds parted and the sun rose, a sign said to occur only once every few decades.
Introduction to Dongchuan Red Soil
The first time I laid eyes on the colors, the layers, the lines, I couldn't help but sigh, "How beautiful... It's so unreal!" As far as the eye could see, the mountains and plains were awash in shades of crimson, purple, brick red, and other shades of red. Rapeseed and potato blossoms bloomed vibrantly on hilltops and slopes large and small for hundreds of miles. Waves of golden wheat rippled in the cool mountain breeze. Layers of green, white, red, and gold—bright, intense colors stretched to the horizon, seemingly carelessly formed into a picturesque, vibrant pattern. From afar, it looked as if the colors had been painted by heaven, dazzling, vibrant, rich, and gracefully outlined, yet painted with such rich, bold color.
Traffic Information
External transportation
Dongchuan is a district of Kunming, so it is recommended to start from Kunming for convenience. You can choose to take a direct bus from Kunming to Hongtudi.
1. Travel by bus (Kunming - Dongchuan District - Hongtudi - Dongchuan District - Kunming)
Kunming - Dongchuan District: It is recommended to take the shuttle bus from Kunming North Bus Station to Hongtudi. The departure time is 7:50 and 8:30. If there is any change in the time, please call the bus station: Kunming North Bus Station Tel: 0871-5727185
Address: Near Longtou Village, Kunming City, Yunnan Province. (This route is recommended.) Alternatively, take a shuttle bus from two bus stations in downtown Kunming (Dongju Bus Station and Nanjiao Bus Station). Departure times for both stations are approximately 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM, with buses departing every 20 minutes. The price during the May Day holiday is 45 yuan per person (1 yuan is included for insurance), though some sources indicate it's 40 yuan per person on non-holidays. (Specific prices vary depending on the platform.) The Eastern Bus Station phone number is 0871-3833680.
Dongchuan District - Red Land Scenic Area: There are regular buses to "Fazhe" (Fazhe) from the Dongchuan District Bus Station, passing through major tourist settlements such as "Huagou" and "Huashitou" (Hua Shitou), where the Red Land is located. Ticket offices indicate that there are only two buses daily, at 8:00 AM and 12:50 PM, but you'll often see buses returning to Dongchuan District via "Huagou" at scenic spots and settlements. Ask the ticket seller at the ticket office. The fare is 23 yuan per person. Another way to reach the Red Land Scenic Area is to charter a car from a Dongchuan District taxi company parking lot. The typical quote is 100-150 yuan per person. This price is for two people (depending on the model and condition; most are Wuling minivans, with Geely and Jetta being the better options). The price increases with each additional person. For groups of four to six, chartering a minivan is a good option, but it's not feasible if you have a lot of luggage. A full van costs around 200-250 yuan. It's recommended to bargain hard, as they often overcharge. (The above prices were inquired during the May Day holiday and are for reference only.) There are two buses a day from the Red Land Scenic Area back to Dongchuan Bus Station, but I saw many buses passing through Huagou. It's best to inquire with the store.
Dongchuan to Kunming: 34 yuan per person. If you're late and want to rent a car back to Kunming, the price ranges from 180 to 250 yuan, taking a Xiali as an example, excluding travel expenses.
2. Self-driving (Kunming - Dongchuan District - Hongtudi): Self-driving usually starts from Kunming, but you can also go to Dongchuan District from Shaoyang, Qujing and other places.
From Kunming, take the Kunqu Expressway, then the Kunsong Expressway, then the Songming Expressway, then the Songdai Expressway, then the Longtan Exit, and finally the Dongchuan District. If you have a GPS, you can use it as a guide to the Kunqu Expressway entrance in Kunming. Once you arrive at the expressway, simply follow the signposts; the directions are clear and straightforward, so there's no need to use GPS. Also, after exiting the Longtan Exit at the Songdai Expressway, you'll reach a fork in the road shortly, with signs on both sides heading to Dongchuan District. The right road is the older, mostly winding mountain road. The left road is the newer, easier to navigate, and the only way to the Red Land. The signs are clear, so we recommend taking this route.
Driving (Chongqing to Hongtudi): Chongqing - Neijiang, Sichuan - Zigong - Yibin - Zhaotong, Yunnan - Qujing - Dongchuan - Hongtudi Town. The GPS will tell you to get off at Huize County, Qujing City, and then take the mountain road to Dongchuan. This is a completely wrong route, as the road is incredibly bad and will add five or six hours to the journey.
Northern tourists from north of Sichuan, after entering Sichuan, just go south towards Neijiang-Yibin to Dongchuan.
3. Gongdong Expressway is expected to be completed and open to traffic in 2018 (please pay attention to authoritative online platforms for specific information)
Route setting: The total length is 49.4 kilometers, starting from the G85 Gongshan Interchange and ending at Xiaolongtan Village, Dongchuan District.
Design standard: Two-way 4-lane expressway standard
Design speed: 80 km/h
Bridge configuration: 75 single-span bridges and 12 tunnels along the entire line. There are 4 interchanges and 1 service area.
Route comparison: Traveling from Kunming to Chengdu via the Gongdong Expressway saves nearly 120 kilometers and nearly two hours compared to taking the Beijing-Kunming Expressway. Traveling from Kunming to Chongqing via the Gongdong Expressway saves 70 kilometers compared to taking the G85.
The opening of the Gongdong Expressway will facilitate travel out of Yunnan, becoming a key arterial link between Kunming and northern Yunnan and southern Sichuan. It will also serve as a fast connection between the central Yunnan urban agglomeration and the Chengdu-Chongqing Economic Zone. The expressway will be part of the shortest and best-positioned expressway between Kunming and Chengdu.
The origin of red soil
The caress of the wind, the sun, and the erosion of rain have perpetuated a warm and humid environment in this land. The metallic substances in the soil oxidize and slowly deposit, gradually forming dazzling crimson and ochre hues. Red soil is a low-yielding, infertile soil, primarily due to human activity and natural factors, accelerating "red soil desertification." Due to a large population, limited land, overexploitation, deforestation, and the soil's inherent characteristics, red soil areas suffer from low productivity, severe soil erosion, and severe degradation in many areas, forming "red desertification." Cultivation and excessive cultivation of steep slopes, as well as deforestation and firewood harvesting, destroy surface vegetation, leading to soil erosion and land degradation. Furthermore, soil erosion is more severe in mountainous and hilly areas in the south, with the impact being even greater than on the Loess Plateau. This exposes rocky terrain that cannot be restored, creating "red deserts."
Tips:
Dongchuan's Red Land, located in the Wumeng Mountains, is a plateau-like region. Its crisscrossing mountains create a rugged, undulating landscape, with endless red earth hills. Combined with the influence of the monsoon, this region boasts a mild, dry-wet climate. The best months for photography are May, September, and November, when vibrant colors and fog create a greater chance of success. In May, the main colors are red soil, golden wheat and barley, and green potato seedlings. In September, the main colors are red soil, golden buckwheat, white winter rapeseed flowers, and green potato seedlings. In November, the main colors are red soil, golden rapeseed stalks and seeds, and green radish seedlings. March: Dongchuan often experiences snow in March, and the red soil, bathed in sunlight after the snow, is a truly beautiful sight.
Kind tips
Shooting suggestions:
Photographers are advised to stay two nights, as the constantly changing weather will allow for many memorable photos. For the morning glow, visit Damakan. For the rest of the day, visit Qicaipo, Jinxiu Tianyuan, Lepuao, and Shenshu. For the evening sunset, visit Luoxiagou.
Shower Reminder:
Most local hotels use solar water heating. If there are too many tourists, there may be a shortage of hot water, so be careful when showering.
Dressing Guide:
Dongchuan has strong ultraviolet radiation and a changeable climate, so bring rain gear and sun protection when going out. The Red Soil Scenic Area is located at an altitude of approximately 2,500 meters, and the temperature difference between morning and evening is significant, so it's best to bring a thick fleece jacket. Also, red soil is difficult to wash off, so it's recommended to wear dark clothing and shoes. The wind can be strong in the morning when photographing the sunrise, so be careful to protect yourself from the wind.
Consumption level:
The consumption level in Dongchuan District is similar to that in Kunming City. Accommodation and dining costs are not very high. An ordinary meal costs about 20-35 yuan per person. The hotel accommodation price in the Red Land Scenic Area is about 100 yuan.
Dongchuan folk customs, authentic and touching
Dongchuan's ethnic minorities primarily include the Yi, Hui, Buyi, and Miao. Each year, these ethnic groups spontaneously organize their own traditional festivals. The most important festivals include the Torch Festival on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month for the Yi, Eid al-Fitr for the Hui, the Harvest Festival (also known as the "June 6th") on the Buyi lunar month, and the "Stepping on the Flower Mountain" festival in the fifth lunar month for the Miao.
(Picture 1 is the Buyi Harvest Festival, Picture 2 is the Miao Flower Mountain Festival, Picture 3 is the Yi Torch Festival, and Picture 4 is the Hui Eid al-Fitr Festival)
Attractions Overview
With Huashitou Village as the center, within a radius of dozens of kilometers, the most beautiful scenery of Dongchuan Red Land is concentrated in Qicaipo, Jinxiu Garden, Luoxiagou, Red Land Grand View, Millennium Dragon Tree, Shuipingzi, Damakan, Luosiwan, Lepuao, Waliang House, etc. Although there are many attractions, most of them are relatively concentrated. Under normal circumstances, you can basically see them all in one day, but for photographers, they should conduct field trips in different time periods.
Damakan
The name of a village in Dongchuan. Around sunrise, from the high slopes along the road, you can overlook the red earth and the sunrise. While Damakan may not be particularly colorful, it is quite majestic, sometimes covered in seas of clouds, making it ideal for sunrise and sunset photography. It's a prime spot for sunrise viewing, and with luck, you can witness a dreamy sunrise and morning glow. The slopes and roadsides of Damakan are filled with photographers with tripods, creating a display of their various photographic equipment.
Colorful Slope
The colors of the Colorful Slope are stunning. Due to its high elevation, different patches of land on the slope take on different colors in different seasons, creating a unique visual impact. The Colorful Slope is ideal for photography under partial light, with the afternoon being the best time. Located on the way back to Huashitou Village from Damakan, the Colorful Slope is arguably the best spot for viewing the Red Soil Grand Scenic Area. If you're not afraid of the arduous journey, you can walk down the mountain path to the center of the scenic area for photography.
Jinxiu Garden
A large depression, with a scenic path running along the mountainside, offers expansive views. The scenic spot boasts sweeping, flowing hillsides, offering distinct views from different angles. Jinxiu Garden's scenery is less majestic than Damakan and Luoxiagou, but more picturesque. It's ideal for photography with partial light, and is generally best captured in the afternoon. From April to December, the best time to photograph Jinxiu Garden is at sunset or three days after rain.
Luoxiagou
Also known as the "Sunken Pond," this area is a sudden drop into the mountains. The best light is between 4:30 PM and 5:30 PM. The sun rises over the mountains east of Luoxiagou, so on cloudy days, you might see a "Christmas Halo," making it a great spot for sunrise and sunset photography. Luoxiagou is nestled in a large canyon, with a small river running between the mountains on either side. The valley sits like a long peninsula within the canyon.
Music Score Concave
A village in Dongchuan, with its undulating fields and patchwork layout. The colors and lines of Yuepuao are beautiful, resembling musical notation, making it ideal for partial light photography. Nearly half of the field of view at Yuepuao is covered by woods and villages, and the evening light is excellent, allowing for photos of the sunset glow.
Thousand-year-old dragon tree
The Old Dragon Tree, also known as the Sacred Tree or the Solitary Tree, is a massive, thousand-year-old fir tree. It once withered and died three years ago, only to sprout new branches again. Locals have erected a stone tablet to venerate it as a sacred tree. For millennia, the Old Dragon Tree has solitarily guarded this vast red land, like a mighty god of war, solemn and sacred. Its lush branches and leaves have witnessed the world's prosperity and experienced the bittersweet warmth of human life, finally washing away all traces of worldly desire. Like a life in full bloom, it stands tall and majestic between heaven and earth. The remote, isolated tree that appears repeatedly in the film "Ask the East and the West" serves as the backdrop for this ancient Dongchuan Old Dragon Tree.
Moon Field
Also known as Shuipingzi, the area is crisscrossed with mountains and hills, with endless red soil hills. In spring, you can take pictures of the paddy fields after they are flooded, and in autumn, they are covered in golden yellow. (The journey is long and the scenery is average, so it is not recommended.)
Luoshiwan
Ideal for direct-lit photography, the colorful terraces twist and turn like a snail, earning them the name "Luoshiwan" by the locals. The inhabitants of Luoshiwan's fields also create a unique landscape on this red earth, perfect for photography at sunrise or sunset.
Other niche shooting spots
Dawotang: There is a small path next to Lepuao. Climb up and turn to the back mountain, where you can see colorful fields all over the mountain. You can also see Lepuao from another angle, which is suitable for sunrise and local light photography.
Taipingtang: The scenery is characterized by colorful colors and is suitable for photographing sunsets and moonrises. Location: on the roadside of Huihuashitou Village in Luoxiagou.
Dongchuan Humanistic Photography
To experience the truest Red Earth, follow the footsteps of the farmers. They are the creators of this land, its true masters, and the embodiment of this most vibrant and natural landscape. Under the blue sky, on the red earth, their families toil, herding cattle and plowing the fields, leaving behind rows and rows of loosened soil. Children also work in the fields, helping their parents with their own tasks. Their simple faces, their curious eyes, their innocent smiles, make for the perfect subjects for humanistic photography. However, before snapping the shutter, it's best to ask for their permission and have some change ready. Since you've taken something, it's only right to give something back. The people of Dongchuan are simple and kind, often lending a helping hand when you need it most. The Red Earth attractions are relatively scattered and far apart, so a chartered car is generally required, costing between 150 and 200 yuan per day. Without a car, you'll have to walk. It's simply impossible to visit all the attractions in a single day. If you're tired and see a passing motorcyclist on the road, just wave and they'll definitely stop and help you get where you want to go, without asking for anything in return. It's incredibly grateful. In the evening, walking along the roadside, you'll occasionally see people returning home with horse-drawn carriages or sheep, smiling and shouting, "Take good pictures! You'll be on TV!"
Dongchuan cuisine
Dongchuan cuisine, nurtured by the beautiful mountains and rivers, blends flavors from across China to create a unique culinary culture. While uncomplicated and devoid of elaborate rituals, the flavors are remarkably authentic. Enjoy Dongchuan noodles, Dongchuan lamb, golden potatoes, yak hotpot, dried yak, buckwheat cakes dipped in honey, wild grass, and everything from cauliflower, dragon claws, pomegranate blossoms, walnut blossoms, bitter thorn flowers, and Sichuan pepper leaves. The dishes are all incredibly unique, often unprecedented. Want to try it? Lao Baigan Dongchuan is a fine wine, brewed entirely from grains. Dongchuan residents are both discerning and connoisseurs of wine. There's a wine called "Mundaolu" (Drunken Donkey), which boasts a delicious, long, mellow flavor and a strong aftertaste. I'd like to highlight the aged wine brewed by Laogangou Farm. The owner embodies the spirit and experience of Tao Yuanming, ignoring the vicissitudes of officialdom and devoting himself to farming. Although the wine is not Tao's chrysanthemum wine, but authentic grain wine, it tastes very special. Don't drink too much, you will get drunk!
Dongchuan Accommodation
Accommodation options include downtown Kunming or Dongchuan, or Huashitou Village, which is close to the Red Land. Dongchuan offers numerous private hotels, with prices ranging from 120 to 200 RMB per night, except during holidays. Huashitou Village and Xintian Village also offer affordable family-run hotels, which are also close to the Red Land and convenient for photography. The core Red Land scenic area is home to numerous farmhouse hotels, most of which are three-story buildings that meet safety and hygiene standards. Prices range from 20 to 100 RMB and are equipped with electric blankets, solar panels, or water heaters. A comprehensive package of food and accommodation is often preferred, offering convenience and value.
Hongtu Hotel (Lao Wang's)
Lao Wang (the boss) is quite enthusiastic and speaks Dongchuan dialect. He will prepare some buckwheat tea, Dongchuan noodles and eggs for tourists. Jackie Chan stayed in his house when filming "Love in the Clouds". There are about 40 guest rooms, which are clean, spacious and bright, with a sanitary environment. The rooms have electric water heaters. It is close to the Luoxiagou Scenic Area, the food is delicious, and the room price is relatively affordable, about 65-100 yuan.
Address: No. 82, Huagou Group, Huagou Village, Hongtu Town (near Yangjiawan Section)
Chen Shunfu Private Store
The hotel is very close to the scenic area and the surrounding environment is very good. You don't have to get up early to take pictures of the sunrise. You can sit on the roof in the afternoon to eat and watch the sunset.
Address: Dongguawan Luoxiagou Scenic Area
Tang Zhengguo Red Land Tourism Center
The hotel is easy to find, about 4-5 kilometers from Hongtu Grand View. Tang Zhengguo, the former mayor of Hongtu Town, is a sincere and enthusiastic person. The accommodation and food are relatively good, and most rooms have private bathrooms.
Address: Huagou (Old Huagou), Dongchuan District
Dongchuan Century Regent Hotel
As the only landmark building in Dongchuan District, the hotel has complete facilities and the rooms are clean and comfortable. It is one of the better hotels in Dongchuan District.
Address: No. 5 Xingyu Road, Dongchuan District
Kunming Dongchuan Hotel
The transportation is convenient, it is very close to the Dongchuan District Government, the geographical location is good, and the environment is also good.
Address: No. 9 Shifu Street, Dongchuan District
Conclusion
Walking across the soft, moist red earth, gazing out into the distance, the soil and fields, nourished by the rain, have a rich, translucent hue like oil. The red becomes more intense, the green more vibrant, the yellow more dazzling, the white pure... The figures of the farmers working in the fields, every movement a work of art—no, creating art. Watching the vibrant colors gradually form and transform in their hands is truly magical! Holding a cup of red earth, one's soul is captivated; capturing a ray of light and shadow, the fragrance lingers in one's heart.
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