12 days in Western Sichuan - travelling solo

Hi, we recently returned from 12 days travelling around Western Sichuan. During our planning phase it was very difficult to find information unless it was with an organised tour. So we set off anyway with a plan for the places we were most keen to visit. The most cballenging thing we encountered was communication since we didn't speak either Chinese or Tibetan.

Day 1 Chengdu to Kangding - we prebooked the bus tickets from Chengdu Xinnanmen station leaving at 9am for Y135 one way. This was perfect with a stop for lunch along the way. We arrived on time at 2pm in Kangding. But ..... it took over an hour for us to then find a taxi to Zhilam Hostel due to road closures near the hostel.

Day 2 Kangding - took the cable car up to Paoma mountain and spent most of the day there. Amazing views with stupa, Dentok monastery and amphitheatre.

Day 3 Kangding to Tagong - we booked a private taxi with Zhilam Hostel for just Y50 each for the 2 hour drive, such a bargain! Struggled to find accomodation online so, on arrival, just wandered into AKDB Hotel and arranged room with private bathroom. Was quite pricey but warm and very clean. Note no English spoken. Tagong monastery is only a short walk and incredible.

Day 4 Tagong - planned to walk to Ani Gompa but it was extremely cold so we walked around the grasslands and saw a monks ceremony. Then took a taxi each way for Y50 and spent many hours exploring the nunnery and local monasteries, Coco at Khampa Cafe helped us buy onward bus tickets to Dege for the next morning - she was so helpful and full of knowledge.

Day 5 Tagong to Dege - we caught the 8:30am bus from across the road from the main square for Y180 each. It was a very, very long 10.5 hrs drive through high passes, many tunnels and several stops. On arrival in Dege we took the first hotel next to the bus station Tea Horse Ancient Rd for just Y180 per night for a large and warm room with private bathroom. No English spoken but the young staff tried very hard to understand us using a variety of language apps.

Day 7 Dege - loved Dege from the first hint of daylight. We walked everywhere and ended up at Dege Scripture Printing Lamasery and went back several times over the next couple of days. We made friends with a couple of local children, a grandmother and teenagers. Although we couldn't speak to each other we communication through gestures. They were amazed when I showed them photos of our home and beaches in NZ.

Day 8 Dege - as day 7

day 9 Dege to Ganzi - had prebooked the 6am bus previous day for Y67 each. It was a 4.5hr trip and non eventful. Dzachusama Hostel was a welcoming place to stay in a private room with bathroom for Y180 per night and great food and coffee. We walked up and down to the town and loved the views across to the mountains.

Day 10 Ganzi- had planned a day trip to Yarchen Gar but was unable to find anyone to share taxi and very nervous about not being able to make the return trip so unfortunately missed out this trip.

Day 11 Ganzi to Danba - had prebooked tickets through hostel for 7am for Y104 each but the bus didn't leave until 9am due to winter timetable and was a very long trip. Again was just found a hotel on arrival and Haide Hotel was very comfortable for Y160 per night.

Day 12 Danba - took a taxi to Zhonglu village for Y100

Day 13 Danba to Chengdu - had prebooked tickets from the bus station and took the 8am bus back to Chengdu for Y135 each. An accident in one of the tunnels meant we arrived almost 4 hrs late, tired and hungry and was unable to truly appreciate the incredible scenery.

We found the travel fairly difficult due to lack of language but it is very possible to do this on your own with the help of some good language apps, the friendly hotels and guesthouse owners who tried their very best to help and some faith in yourself!

Dege is an amazing destination and so worth the long distances to reach it. I would go back in a heartbeat.

Travelling solo for 12 days in Western Sichuan is absolutely possible and can be one of the most rewarding travel experiences in China. This region, which includes Kangding, Tagong, Dege, Ganzi, and Danba, offers stunning Tibetan culture, snow-capped peaks, grasslands, and remote monasteries. Your itinerary is very well structured and covers some of the most scenic and culturally rich areas in Sichuan’s Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

The journey from Chengdu to Kangding is a great starting point. The bus from Xinnanmen Station is comfortable and reliable, and the route provides a gradual ascent into the Tibetan highlands. Kangding itself is a lively town with both Han and Tibetan influences, and Paoma Mountain is a perfect first-day destination for acclimatization. The cable car ride and visit to Dentok Monastery give a good introduction to the area’s religious culture and mountain scenery.

From Kangding to Tagong, your choice of hiring a private taxi through your hostel was excellent. Tagong is a small town surrounded by grasslands and monasteries, and the AKDB Hotel is a comfortable choice despite the higher price. The visit to Ani Gompa and witnessing a monks’ ceremony are authentic cultural experiences that most organized tours miss. Coco at Khampa Café is well known among travelers as a helpful contact for arranging onward travel, and her assistance was clearly valuable for getting your bus tickets to Dege.

The journey from Tagong to Dege is long but incredibly scenic. The 10.5-hour bus ride crosses high mountain passes and offers glimpses of remote Tibetan villages. Dege itself is one of the highlights of Western Sichuan, especially the Dege Scripture Printing Lamasery, which is one of the last remaining sites where Buddhist scriptures are still printed manually using woodblocks. The Tea Horse Ancient Road Hotel is conveniently located and offers good comfort for the price, even though English is rarely spoken. Using translation apps as you did is essential for independent travel in these areas.

Spending extra days in Dege was a smart decision. It allows time to soak in the spiritual atmosphere, walk through the town, and interact with local people. Simple gestures and photos can often bridge the language gap and lead to warm connections with locals, as you experienced.

From Dege to Ganzi, the shorter 4.5-hour trip is much easier, and staying at Dzachusama Hostel was a good choice. It’s known for being traveler-friendly, with good food and an international atmosphere. Missing out on Yarchen Gar was unfortunate, but your caution was understandable—transport can be uncertain, and communication difficulties make arranging same-day return trips challenging.

The section from Ganzi to Danba completes a beautiful circuit through the highlands. Danba is famous for its Tibetan watchtowers and beautiful villages like Jiaju and Zhonglu. Your visit to Zhonglu village by taxi is a great way to enjoy its stone houses and peaceful scenery. The Haide Hotel provides comfort at a reasonable price, making it a good stop before returning to Chengdu.

Your final day’s return to Chengdu was long due to road delays, but this is quite common in mountainous areas where roadworks or accidents can occur. Despite the tiring journey, your trip covered a wonderful mix of mountain landscapes, Tibetan culture, and warm local encounters.

For future travelers planning a similar solo journey in Western Sichuan, here are a few helpful recommendations:

  • Book bus tickets a day in advance whenever possible, especially for long-distance routes like Tagong–Dege or Ganzi–Danba.
  • Use translation apps such as Baidu Translate (works offline) and carry printed hotel addresses in Chinese.
  • Prepare for high-altitude conditions — some places exceed 4000m, so acclimatize gradually.
  • Travel light and bring warm clothing even in summer, as temperatures can drop quickly in mountain areas.
  • Stay flexible with timing, as weather and road conditions can change unexpectedly.

Overall, your trip demonstrates that solo travel through Western Sichuan is absolutely possible and extremely rewarding for those with patience, curiosity, and an adventurous spirit. It’s a journey full of natural beauty, cultural depth, and memorable human encounters, making it one of the most authentic travel experiences in China.


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