New Orleans, you owe me a Do Over

Question

I visited New Orleans back in January. I stayed a couple blocks away from Bourbon Street in the French Quarter in a Marriott that was wonderful but the French Quarter is just too touristy for me. Add the single digit degree temperatures from a freak cold snap and I did not get the Nola experience that I was looking for.

I want to do over New Orleans, you owe me that much. Somebody suggested that I stay on Frenchmen Street. Help a guy out because I spent most of the time freezing my ass off, surrounded by tourist and college kids who are on break.

Please help me suggest a more authentic place or location than where I was at before. This time I will also bring a sportcoat and Thai because I didn’t realize that New Orleans has dress codes on the weekends and after 5 PM. I’m ready for you baby.

Answer

It sounds like you had a rough first experience in New Orleans, but don't worry—there are plenty of more authentic, local spots for you to explore on your "do-over" trip! If you're looking to escape the tourist-heavy areas of the French Quarter, there are a few neighborhoods and areas that offer a more genuine New Orleans vibe. Here's a list of recommendations:

Frenchmen Street – You mentioned Frenchmen Street, and this is a fantastic suggestion! Unlike Bourbon Street, which is often packed with tourists and party-goers, Frenchmen Street is known for its live jazz clubs, bars, and art galleries. It's a much more local scene and offers a real taste of New Orleans music and culture. You'll find amazing places like The Spotted Cat, Snug Harbor, and Three Muses for jazz, cocktails, and intimate performances.
The Marigny – Frenchmen Street is located in the Marigny neighborhood, and this whole area offers a great mix of historic charm and local culture. It's a more residential and artsy area, with unique bars, restaurants, and music venues. It's still close enough to the French Quarter for easy access, but it offers a much more laid-back, non-touristy vibe.
The Bywater – Just south of the Marigny, the Bywater is a great choice if you're looking for a cool, off-the-beaten-path neighborhood. This area is home to colorful shotgun houses, hipster cafes, and quirky art galleries. It's where you'll find local favorites like Samantha's for a great meal or The Country Club (which has a pool and is known for its Sunday brunch). This is a more relaxed and eclectic area with an authentic local feel.
Garden District – If you're looking for something more charming and peaceful, the Garden District offers beautiful tree-lined streets, historic mansions, and a lovely neighborhood atmosphere. It’s an upscale area with lots of local cafes and restaurants. You’ll love walking around and taking in the historic architecture. Check out places like Commander's Palace (an iconic New Orleans restaurant) and La Petite Grocery.
Uptown – For a mix of local culture and New Orleans charm, the Uptown area offers plenty to explore. It's less touristy than the French Quarter, but still full of character. You can stroll Magazine Street for unique shopping and dining, and enjoy the beautiful oak trees and historic homes. For great food, try Jacques-Imo’s for classic Creole dishes or Coquette for modern Southern cuisine.

As for the dress code, you're right—many places in New Orleans, especially nicer restaurants and bars, do have a dress code after 5 PM, particularly on weekends. It's best to bring a sportcoat or nice jacket if you're planning to dine in some of the more upscale spots. A collared shirt and nice pants will usually suffice for most restaurants and bars. Some of the top places with dress codes include Commander's Palace, Antoine's, and Emeril's.

In short, try to stay in neighborhoods like Frenchmen Street, the Marigny, or Bywater for a more authentic experience, and consider spending some time Uptown or in the Garden District for a change of scenery. With a sportcoat in tow, you’ll be set to enjoy all the amazing food, music, and culture New Orleans has to offer!