🏯 Tsuruga Castle: Stories from a Little Guide of Aizu

— The Day the Children Showed Us the Heart of the Castle
On a late autumn morning, as a gentle autumn breeze blew through the pine trees, we visited Tsuruga Castle (Tsurugajō), a symbol of the Aizu people's "perseverance." Built in the 14th century, it has endured numerous collapses and reconstructions, and stands out as the only castle in Japan with red roof tiles (akagawara).

We had originally planned to visit for just half an hour, but at the registration tent next to the stone courtyard, we were presented with the requirement to collect stamps from four locations to redeem souvenirs. Upon seeing the prizes, everyone nodded in agreement with smiles.

Soon after, a group of brightly smiling students emerged, carrying clipboards, notebooks, and stamps. The staff explained that this was a project where young people in Aizu would share the castle's history with visitors.

Even though we could understand only a little Japanese, the children's determination was immediately palpable, and this was the beginning of one of the most memorable moments of the day.

🗿 Group 1: Three Girls and the Guardian Stone
The three girls led us along the stone path along the high wall, their voices bright yet firm, like professionals. They stopped at the largest stone in the corner of the wall—"Yujoishi" (遊女石) or "Kagamiishi (鏡石)."

She explained that this giant stone, weighing over eight tons, was transported from a distant mountain by ancient methods and was a sacred stone that protected the castle from evil. Technically, it was also the main support for the castle's corners. The girls invited her to feel the coolness of the stone under their fingertips—as if tracing the passage of time. They explained the nozurazumi (野面積み) method of laying the stones, which is laid without trimming or mortar, but instead supporting each stone individually, which has survived centuries of battles and earthquakes.

Next, another child held up a model of the Taikomon Gate (太鼓門). "It's named after the giant taiko drum, over 1.8 meters in diameter, used to signal battles or the arrival of the daimyo."

Before concluding, the lecture She pointed to the top of the Tenshukaku tower and explained that the roof ridge featured a pair of shachihoko (鯱鉾), symbols of a pair of dragonfish that protect against fire, and a "peach" symbol at the roof's tip, a blessing for longevity and happiness. After stamping our notebooks, the first group passed the baton to the teacher, who led us to the next group inside.

⚔️ Set Two: Two Boys and the Pride of Aizu

Under the shadow of the wall, two boys stood, clutching a clipboard. One boy offered a stone for us to touch. "This is the same stone used to build the wall," he explained, repeating the strength of the Nozurazumi technique, giving us a tactile impression.

He then led us to Kuroganemon (黒鉄門), a black iron gate, a large gate for the daimyo and a smaller gate for the common people. "During the Boshin War, this gate was still standing even after being shot by cannons, as it was made of hardwood and reinforced with iron plates," he said proudly.

The activity concluded with the final stamp. The two children bowed politely. We each gave each of them a 20-baht Thai note as a souvenir, just like the previous group of little guides. Their eyes lit up, and the teacher in charge smiled broadly. Then, laughter erupted as one child held the note high in the air and gave a cheerful "high-five" as they left.

As we were leaving the courtyard, another older boy, a "senior volunteer guide," followed our group. At first, we thought he was a Japanese boy joining us to listen, just like us. We followed him wherever we went, even secretly asking if the boy had gotten lost from his parents. As we talked, we understood he could help us find other spots. We explained that we had to continue our journey and couldn't enter the interior. He smiled briefly, told us we could pick up our souvenirs at the tent, and offered to take a group photo for us at the corner of the white tower with the red tile roof against the afternoon sky.

That day, we didn't just walk around Tsuruga Castle, but also experienced its atmosphere. The Heart of Aizu—A city that teaches children to love and share their hometown's history with a pure and proud voice.

Love you, Aizu ❤️

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