From Nanluoguxiang to Jingshan: Walking Through the Alleys and Waterways, Experiencing a Living Pulse of Old Beijing

From Nanluoguxiang to Jingshan: Walking Through the Alleys and Waterways, Experiencing a Living Pulse of Old Beijing

Coming out of Nanluoguxiang Subway Station, I didn’t rush into the crowds on the main street but turned toward Yuhe Park. This was an unplanned city walk, just wanting to see the true essence of old Beijing.

The South Garden of Yuhe Park is not far to the east. Calling it a park feels more like a hidden urban gem where the historical water system has been reinterpreted. The Tonghui River, built by Guo Shoujing during the Yuan Dynasty, includes the Yuhe section, which once bustled with merchant ships. Over time it silted up, but after restoration a few years ago, it regained its current appearance.

Entering the park, I was first struck by the greenery and water. The willows were lush, their branches hanging down to the water’s surface. When the wind blew, the leaves swayed, creating ripples on the water. A wooden bridge spanned the river, and stepping onto it, I could hear the faint creak beneath my feet. A sign by the bridge read “Grand Canal Yuhe Section,” reminding visitors of its significance. The water wasn’t deep; I could see the aquatic plants below and occasionally a small fish swimming silently by.

Walking along the riverside path, on both sides were buildings with an antique charm. Some courtyards with gray bricks and tiles had stone lions at their gates. Though not grand historic residences, they exuded a homely, everyday life vibe. One courtyard had two chairs at the entrance, one white and one black, as if local residents occasionally sat there to bask in the sun and chat.

Leaving Yuhe Park, I entered the alleys. Dongjixiang Hutong, Dongbanqiao East Lane... these names carry the accent of old Beijing. The alleys were narrow, paved with smooth asphalt, flanked by gray brick walls. Occasionally, a small red window with traditional latticework appeared on the walls. Electric wires crisscrossed overhead, with sparrows hopping along them.

Walking in the alleys, you encounter various scenes of daily life. People passing by, leisurely riders on shared bikes squeezed alongside private cars covered with car covers—old and new blending naturally in one place.

The alleys twist and turn; sometimes you think you’ve reached the end, but a turn reveals another lane. No need to memorize the route, just follow your feeling. Passing some courtyards, the doorstops were intricately carved—some lions, some drum-shaped—cool to the touch, worn smooth by generations of hands.

As I walked, the view suddenly opened up—I had arrived at the East Gate of Jingshan Park. Looking back, the alleys and Yuhe I had just passed through seemed to connect the lively atmosphere of Nanluoguxiang with the profoundness of Jingshan.

This journey had no trendy check-in spots, just walking and pausing. Watching the water of Yuhe, imagining the boats that once traveled it; looking at the gray walls in the alleys, thinking of the daily lives of those who live there; watching the pedestrians—locals and tourists like me—all walking the same path but each with their own story.

From Nanluoguxiang to Jingshan is only a few kilometers, but it feels like traveling through centuries, seeing the most authentic side of a city. If you enjoy this unhurried way of walking, try this route. Just follow your feeling—you might discover more old city details that belong uniquely to you.

🏠 Name: Yuhe Park South Garden
🌟 Address: About 130 meters northwest of No. 2 Courtyard, Dongjixiang Hutong, Dongbanqiao East Lane