Dreaming of Jiangnan by the water, stepping into the Republic of China era at Changde River Street

As night falls, illuminating the gilded eaves of Dahe and Xiaohe Streets, I wheel my luggage along the cobblestone path shimmering with neon lights. At the corner stands a red-brick Western-style villa by the water—Li Gao 1919 Lakeside Hotel, like a reclusive gentleman stepping out of an old Shanghai pictorial. The butler waits at the door, swiftly taking my luggage and guiding me inside: "You must be tired, please follow me."

The moment the door opens, warm light spills from vintage lamps, and the subtle fragrance of L'Occitane drifts in the air. A gentle lake breeze flows into the room, rustling the sheer curtains. The bathroom, with its dry-wet separation, is equipped with a Lefan hair dryer, while a velvet sofa sits by the window, framing the bustling River Street outside like a living mural of lantern-lit boats. The butler softly reminds me: "Feel free to enjoy the minibar drinks. If you'd like to try the stewed rice noodles from Hejie Yideyi for supper, you can order delivery, and we’ll bring it to your room."

The next morning, awakened by birdsong, I sink into the sofa in my robe as the butler brings a breakfast tray: clear-broth Changde rice noodles, freshly wrapped wontons dotted with shrimp roe, paired with a glass of freshly squeezed juice. In the afternoon, I stroll along River Street, lured by the tangy aroma of Old Ximen clay pot dishes. Tired from walking, I return to find afternoon tea waiting—tiramisu with freshly ground coffee, watching tour boats glide across the golden ripples of Chuanzi River.

Post by MP. LULU 33 | Jun 7, 2025