Just got back from Yinchuan, and here's the honest truth:

I arrived expecting a desolate, poetic landscape, but instead, I gained four pounds in three days—the lamb here has absorbed all the essence of the grasslands into a deadly temptation, and even the Eight Treasures Tea became an accomplice!

🌵 Desert Survival Guide

▪️ I was deterred by the 380 RMB ticket price at Shapotou, but then I followed a shepherd to a hidden desert entrance and rode a camel into the "Ashes of Time" filming location for 20 RMB.
▪️ Sunscreen + veil double buff: The midday Tengger Desert is like a giant makeup remover, but the curves of the sand dunes at 6 pm are a natural highlighter.
▪️ Lifesaver tip: Buy sandboards outside the scenic area and haggle down to 30 RMB! Enjoy private sand dunes at Moon Lake and slide till the end of time.

🍜 Food Anti-PUA Guide

The spicy mashed potatoes at Huaiyuan Night Market almost bankrupted me, until I discovered—

✅ Local's Secret Menu
▫️ At Guoqiang Hand Grabbed Mutton, don't order the "premium ribs"! Whisper "I want fatty and lean" to save 30 RMB, and pair it with purple garlic for a true martial arts hero vibe.
▫️ Head to Wuzhong Breakfast Street at 7 am: An 8 RMB ramen set comes with Eight Treasures Tea, and when refilling, tap the lid of your bowl three times like the locals for a surprise.
⚠️ Spice Level Warning: For lamb offal soup, say "less lung," or the intense flavor will blow your mind.

🛣️ Off-the-Beaten-Path Itinerary

1️⃣ Unconventional Western Xia Tombs: Catch the last guided tour at 4 pm and own the entire silhouette of the royal tombs at sunset.
2️⃣ Helan Mountain Rock Paintings Escape Route: Enter through the back door of the Han Meilin Art Museum, save 60 RMB on tickets, and maybe even stumble upon a meeting of rock sheep.
3️⃣ Zhenbeibao Fortress Money-Saving Tip: Don't rent Zixia costumes at the first shop! Walk 300 meters further in, and another shop will give you a Supreme Treasure wooden sword for free.

📸 Photo Ops

▪️ Roman columns at Lanshan Park: Shoot silhouettes against the light at 5 pm, and the kites flown by the locals will become your props.
▪️ Contemporary Art Museum Pro Tip: Wear solid colors! The desert concrete walls will sculpt your silhouette into a Western movie poster.
▪️ Yellow River Ancient Ferry Hidden Gem: Take a donkey cart to the ferry for 10 RMB, and the dusk Yellow River will transform into molten bronze.

💡 Mind-Blowing Yinchuan Philosophy

1️⃣ Bring empty mineral water bottles! All the wineries at the foot of Helan Mountain offer free red wine refills, sweeter than Nongfu Spring.
2️⃣ Master the Northwest bargaining trifecta: frown + shake your head + turn and walk away, but accept anything offered by elderly men in white caps with both hands.
3️⃣ Don't take a taxi at the Drum Tower! Ride a shared e-bike to the entrance of the mosque for instant rides and drivers who assume you're a local.

Yinchuan taught me with its three-RMB scallion pancakes that true luxury isn't Michelin plating, but gnawing on a lamb's hoof on the curb, looking up to see the crescent moon of the mosque slicing through the desert night sky.

Post by TONY BALL | Mar 3, 2025

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