[Famous Architecture of Bisan Seto] (Takamatsu City and Sakaide City, Kagawa Prefecture, Former Province Name: Sanuki)



The Great Seto Bridge, known as the world's longest combined railway and road bridge, traverses the Bisan Strait, a body of water that once lay between Bizen Province, Bitchu Province (together the coastal areas of Okayama Prefecture), and Sanuki Province (present-day Kagawa Prefecture). Building a bridge across this strait was a long-cherished dream of postwar Japanese society, but opinions were sharply divided over the site. Ultimately, the route connecting Kojima in Okayama Prefecture and Sakaide in Kagawa Prefecture was selected. One of the reasons for this was the chain of small islands in the Shiwaku Islands directly below the route, which could be used as the bridge's foundation. Completed after a decade of massive construction, the Seto Ohashi Bridge, a collection of six bridges connecting the islands spanning a total length of over 9 km, marks a significant milestone in Japan's civil engineering and economic history. Meanwhile, the climate, history, and activities of this maritime region are also conveyed through the architectural masterpieces built overlooking the bridge.

① Seto Inland Sea History and Folklore Museum (Photos 2-7, Takamatsu City)
Goshikidai, overlooking the Bisan Seto Strait from the east, is closely associated with Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, founded by Kukai (774-835), a native of Sanuki Province. Behind it is Shiramine, dedicated to the Retired Emperor Sutoku (1119-1164). Standing at the tip of this plateau is the Seto Inland Sea History and Folklore Museum. This museum uses exhibits to interpret the history of the Seto Inland Sea region and the lifestyles that shaped it. At the same time, it is widely recognized as a masterpiece of modern Japanese architecture, having been selected for the "First Public Architecture Award Excellence Award" in 1988.
Its designer, Tadashi Yamamoto (1923-1998), was born in what is now Sanuki City and had the unusual career of competing in the Olympic triple jump while working for the Kagawa Prefectural Government. In 1958, he attended the design of the Kagawa Prefectural Government Building by Kenzo Tange (1913-2005), which inspired him to study the theory of modernist architecture. He gained insight from the many artists and designers who gathered in Kagawa Prefecture at the time, and went on to design public buildings for Kagawa Prefecture himself. Yamamoto was rooted in the climate of the Seto Inland Sea region and aimed to create architecture that blends in with the landscape. In designing the Seto Inland Sea History and Folklore Museum, he imagined the castle of a naval force that once ruled the seas from its base in the Shiwaku Islands below.
As you walk up the gentle slope from the parking lot, you'll come across a building with an unusual appearance that perfectly suits the word "fortress." Meticulously constructed stone walls undulate along the terrain, dividing it into sections like a "bailey." Each section is lined with 10 exhibition rooms, varying in size, but even though they're on the same floor, there are subtle differences in elevation, revealing a philosophy based entirely on the natural terrain. The light and dark areas are divided according to the content of the exhibits, and after an exhibition room reminiscent of the dim underwater world, there is another exhibit with a refreshing atmosphere that makes full use of the Seto Inland Sea sunlight, showing how the flow of visitors is also well thought out. After touring all the exhibition rooms, head to the observation deck with a panoramic view of the Seto Inland Sea. You'll be able to see the ultimate answer to the architecture that embodies harmony with the local climate. Access: Approximately 30 minutes by car from Takamatsu Danshi IC

② Higashiyama Kaii Setouchi Museum of Art (Photos 1, 8-10, Sakaide City)
Higashiyama Kaii (1908-1999), a leading figure in modern Japanese art, traces his roots to the Bisan Seto Inland Sea. His grandfather was a native of Hitsuishijima, where the current Setouchi Ohashi Bridge piers stand. Taking advantage of the turbulent times of the late Edo period, he left the island and became acquainted with Enomoto Takeaki (1836-1908). He became a successful ship's equipment merchant after the Meiji period. Kaii himself was conscious of his roots, and in his essays, which explore the appeal of Eastern and Western landscapes, he often discusses his grandfather's life and the Seto Inland Sea's climate. After Kaii's death, his family donated approximately 270 of his prints, leading to the founding of the museum. It was designed by Taniguchi Yoshio (1937-2024), a master of museum architecture whose works include the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Based on its location on the Seto Inland Sea's waterfront, the design is conscious of flatness, with sharp structures and simple colours allowing visitors to relax and enjoy the artworks. After finishing your viewing, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Seto Inland Sea and the Great Seto Bridge from the cafe that awaits you. Unlike the aforementioned Goshikidai, the view from the same eye level, or slightly below, seems to embrace the calm air of the Seto Inland Sea even more. The small island of Hitsuishijima, where Kaii's grandfather was born, also appears faintly in the thin spring mist. Access: Approximately 7 minutes by car from Sakaide-Kita IC

Recommendation for Solo Travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. Enjoy quiet sightseeing!)

Visited: Around 12:00 PM on the third Sunday of January

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | Aug 17, 2025

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