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[Kotohira Shrine] (Kotohira Town, Kagawa Prefecture, former province name: Sanuki)



For the many ships sailing the Seto Inland Sea, a "signpost" was indispensable to measure the distance to land, adjust the bow, and guide the power of the oars. No matter how calm the inland sea, it is impossible not to be shaken by the hearts of the people on the ship floating and sinking on the waves, and it is not difficult to imagine how much the presence of a signpost clearly visible on land must have soothed and inspired them. And the signpost naturally attracted people's respect and hope, and before long it became a "sacred place."

Among the countless "signposts = sacred places" that exist in Japan, Kotohira Shrine in particular had a great impact on the culture and development of the region. It stands on the slope of Mount Zozu, located in the western part of what is now Kagawa Prefecture, formerly known as Sanuki Province. However, looking at the topography today, it is surprising that it is so far from the shore as a signpost of the sea. This is related to the fact that the water level of the Seto Inland Sea was once higher than it is now, and the current coastal plains were mostly underwater. This makes it clear how people have looked up to this mountain since ancient times, and the bustling long temple town that continues from the foot of the mountain to the plains is a natural sight when you look back at its history.

The founding of Kotohira Shrine is still unclear.
It is certain that a shrine dedicated to Omononushi was built at the latest in the mid-Heian period, and it is surmised that, among the various divine powers of Omononushi, maritime safety was a strong concern due to the topography of the mountain. Meanwhile, from the Middle Ages, it was influenced by the belief in the spirit of Emperor Sutoku (1119-1164), who was defeated in the Hogen Rebellion and exiled to Sanuki Province, and the honji suijaku theory of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism, and spread widely as Konpira Daigongen. The nickname "Konpira-san", which is still popular today, is a remnant of this name. Therefore, the two deities enshrined at the shrine today are Omononushi-no-Mikoto and Emperor Sutoku.
During the Edo period, Kotohira Shrine and its religious culture reached their peak. In a society where travel was generally prohibited for common people, pilgrimages to Kotohira Shrine were exceptionally permitted. For this reason, common people flocked to the shrine from ports all over the western part of the country, passing through Marugame, to make "Konpira Mairi", and the area in front of the shrine became extremely lively. At the Treasure Museum of Kotohira Shrine, you can see picture scrolls depicting scenes from those times, including an image of a udon restaurant. It is said that the first restaurant specializing in udon appeared in front of Kotohiramon Gate during the Edo period, and it had a major influence on the rise of Sanuki udon, which is synonymous with Kagawa Prefecture today. In addition, there are exhibits that vividly depict the looks and breathing of ordinary people, such as the custom of the Konpira dog accompanying travelers on pilgrimages on their master's behalf.

Today, Kotohira Shrine has a 785-step stone approach from the gate to the main shrine. On both sides of the steps, stone lanterns of all sizes stand in a forest following the slope, exuding a solemn mountain atmosphere. The bodies of the lanterns are generally inscribed with the names and addresses of donors, many of whom are related to fishing and shipping, giving a sense of the true value of Kotohira Shrine as a "signpost to the sea" even in modern times.
Asahisha, which appears halfway up the approach to the shrine, is the largest wooden shrine or temple structure in Shikoku, and its grandeur is the most impressive in the entire Kotohira Shrine area. Although it is now revered as a shrine, it was originally connected to the Buddhist architectural style treated as a "kondo" (main hall), and this alone gives a glimpse of the unique religious culture of Kotohira Shrine. Leaving Asahisha behind, the approach suddenly enters the shade of greenery, with the trees left to grow freely in the humid air. Then, in the sudden light that shines through, even steeper stone steps stand tall, and at the end of them stands a towering torii gate. Taking one step at a time, you will soon come to an open area where you will find the main shrine. The shrine building was rebuilt in 1878, and its ancient yet elegant appearance with its cypress bark roof is an attractive feature. Looking back after worship, the Doki River stretches out in the distance, and the Sanuki plains it opened up. Paradoxically, the beautifully leveled fields, apart from the mountain range of Mount Zozu, allow one to imagine the expanse of the sea in ancient times. And the soft hint of the Seto Inland Sea hanging beyond the faint mist, brings to mind the peaceful seascape and activities of today.

Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★ (There are a fair number of people, but it's a large place so it doesn't bother me)

Visited: 3pm on a weekday in the third week of November

Access: About 15 minutes on foot from Kotoden Kotohira Station (to the beginning of the approach)

*Some of the photos in this post were borrowed from a friend

#Konpiragu Shrine #Konpira-san #Kotohira #Kotohira-cho #KagawaTrip #KagawaTourism #KagawaPrefectureTourism #ShikokuTourism #KagawaTripDiary #DomesticTravelLover #WantToConnectWithDomesticTravelLover #ShrineLover #ShrineTourism #ShrineTempleLover #ShrineTempleTourism #Omononushi #StoneLantern #WoodenArchitecture #TempleArchitecture #ShintoBuddhistSynthesis #EmperorSutoku #SanukiUdon

Post by hanakin_kozakura | Jul 19, 2025

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