[Main Island] (Marugame City, Kagawa Prefecture, former province name: Sanuki)

The name "Shiwaku sect" (Shiwakushu) flashes with a unique presence at a major turning point in Japan's long history.
The Shiwaku Islands, where they based themselves, refer to approximately 30 small islands floating in the center of the Seto Inland Sea. The islands, which exist as if they were squeezing and pushing through the ocean currents, are surrounded by some of the most rapids in the Seto Inland Sea, creating a complex web of waterways. Unravelling this complex requires specialized knowledge and skill. The Shiwaku sect, honed through generations of experience, was unique in its mastery of the region's unique characteristics. As a result, countless ships plying the Seto Inland Sea relied on them for safety, and the Shiwaku sect, in turn, utilized these conditions to conduct their own unique economic activities. The Shiwaku sect's name and power, acting as the gateway to the sea, spread throughout the country, and the rulers of the time sought their aid. Their movements sometimes greatly influenced politics and wars in the western provinces.

Of the islands where the Shiwaku sect based, Honjima flourished as their base.

It lies approximately 10km offshore from Marugame, the capital of western Sanuki Province (present-day Kagawa Prefecture), and has a "planet-like" appearance, as if commanding the surrounding small islands. Its 16.4km coastline is lined with numerous inlets, which naturally formed ports where the ships of the Shiwaku sect could dock since ancient times. In the early modern period, the Shiwaku Islands were also incorporated into the feudal domain system, but, extremely unusually for the rest of the country, the residents' autonomy was officially recognized. This may have been due to their free-spirited spirit, or perhaps to the shogunate's desire to prevent a single domain from controlling key points on the sea routes. In any case, self-governance was developed throughout the Edo period by rotating four leaders, known as "ninmyo," from among the islands' approximately 650 sailors. The Shiwaku Kinbansho (Photos 1 and 9), which still remains on the main island today, was the administrative center for this self-governance and was built in 1798. Inside, many exhibits convey the exploits and spirit of the Shiwaku shu, making it an ideal place to learn about their unique history.

Until modern times, when a new wharf was built on the southern part of the island, the transportation hub was the Kasashima district in the northeast. This area was the base of operations for generations of Shiwaku shu, and even today retains a strong Edo-period port townscape. At the Kasajima Townscape Preservation District Center (photo 3), a detailed explanation of the island's history and lifestyle is provided in a former sailor's residence. Honjima, which has produced many skilled shipwrights, is known for its high level of craftsmanship, even in architectural design. They were often contracted to carry out carpentry work in countries along the Seto Inland Sea coast, and even today, ancient buildings crafted by "Shiwaku carpenters" remain, primarily in the Sanyo region.
The Yoshida Residence (photo 4) forms the centerpiece of this streetscape. Owned by the Yoshida family, who have run the shipping business for generations and currently serve as president of Honjima Kisen, this roughly 100-year-old residence stands on a vast site. The open, bold layout, which takes into consideration ventilation from the garden, is astonishing, but even the transoms, wooden doors, and shoji screens display the Shiwaku carpenters' sophisticated skills, evoking their ingenuity down to the smallest details. If you're lucky, the head of the Yoshida family, who owns the mansion, will personally explain the architectural highlights and the island's history. You'll also get to see Ito Jakuchu's "Chicken Painting," which was discovered by chance on the premises in recent years.

The island is tranquil, offering a striking contrast to the busy traffic on the Setouchi Ohashi Bridge beyond the coast. While cycling around the island, islanders will chat with you from the driver's seat of a pickup truck, warmly welcoming you with their thoughtfulness.

Meanwhile, the former Shiwaku samurai boarded the Kanrin Maru, ordered by the shogunate, on the first Japanese ship to cross the Pacific Ocean. It's said that of the 50 sailors aboard the Kanrin Maru on this arduous voyage of the century, 35 were originally from the Shiwaku Islands. It's no exaggeration to say that these were Japan's finest sailors, selected for a project that placed the country's prestige on the line. I was suddenly captivated by the presence of the Shiwaku warriors lurking on this island, highlighting its dynamic history and today's idyllic atmosphere.

Recommendation for Solo Travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. Enjoy quiet sightseeing!)

Visit Date: Around 11:00 AM, the third Sunday of November

Access: Approximately 35 minutes by ferry from Marugame Port

*The photos in this post were borrowed from a friend

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