A Soulful Journey in Ayutthaya

From the Sky Buddha to the Tree-Embraced Buddha Head: A Dialogue with Time and Faith

Travel Date: October 31, 2024
From Bangkok to Ayutthaya

【Prelude to the Journey】Departing Bangkok, Embarking on a Train to the Ancient Capital

Early in the morning, my travel companion and I boarded the 08:45 express train from Bang Sue Grand Station (the new Bangkok railway station), passing through Thailand's rice fields and morning mist, heading towards the ancient city of Ayutthaya. Though the journey was short, it felt like a passage to a previous life.

The train stopped at the 11th station, Ayutthaya Station—a seemingly ordinary station that hides an entrance to the past.

A Little Adventure: The "Tuk-Tuk Scare"

Upon exiting the station, we found a tuk-tuk to experience the quintessential Thai mode of transportation. The driver, a middle-aged man with a cheerful smile, spoke fluent "smiling Thai" mixed with simple English, enthusiastically recommending "very special temples." We told him we wanted to visit the "Temple of the Buddha's Footprint" first, which was farther away. He nodded and said, "No problem."

And so, the journey began.

As the tuk-tuk drove on, the surroundings grew increasingly desolate, with fewer people in sight. The little dot on Google Maps began drifting away from the main roads.

To our surprise, the driver suddenly handed us two bottles of ice water, smiling and saying, "Free! Free! Happy!"

We exchanged glances, and I half-jokingly said, "Hey, do you think... he might be taking us to Myanmar to harvest our kidneys?"

My companion burst into laughter but looked slightly uneasy: "I just read a news article about backpackers going missing in Thailand..."

While sipping the "possibly drugged" ice water, we frantically checked the map on our phones.

Fortunately, ten minutes later, we arrived safely at our destination—the Temple of the Buddha's Footprint. The driver even helped us take some uniquely angled photos, and the trip ended without incident.

This little adventure reminded us that while travel can be romantic, safety should never be overlooked.

Even in the Land of Smiles, it's essential to stay vigilant:
✔ Choose reputable platforms for tuk-tuks or private cars.
✔ Keep Google Maps open and share your location in real-time.
✔ Avoid drinking free beverages from unknown sources (we were lucky this time 😅).

This episode ended with laughter but also taught us a valuable lesson.

🛕【First Stop: Prasat Nakhon Luang - Temple of the Buddha's Footprint】

The octagonal Sky Buddha silently watches over the past and future.

Our first stop was not in the bustling city center but at a remote ancient temple, the Temple of the Buddha's Footprint. This place, rarely visited by tourists, left me deeply moved.

Walking through wild grass and crumbling bricks, I looked up to see an octagonal sky tower reaching towards the heavens. At its center sat a massive Buddha statue, draped in gold, with a serene expression and downcast gaze, resembling an ancient king who has seen through the world.

Sunlight streamed through the eight angles of the tower, illuminating the Buddha's face, as if He were descending from the heavens or preparing to ascend. The entire structure felt like a temple and a sacred time machine, with the air turning mysterious and still.

Standing at the Buddha's feet, I dared not speak loudly, even breathing softly, fearing I might disturb His meditation with the universe.

At that moment, I understood the meaning of "reverence." It wasn't about worship or prayer but a humble surrender of the soul to time and space.

【Afternoon Temple Visits: Brief Overview, Details to Follow】

We visited several temples afterward, each with its unique charm, but my heart remained filled with the morning's Sky Buddha. By afternoon, we arrived at another spiritual highlight of the day—Wat Phra Mahathat.

The Tree-Embraced Buddha Head: A Silent Tale of Compassion Through Time

Entering Wat Phra Mahathat, we were greeted by red brick ruins, partially collapsed ancient towers, and remnants of a forgotten civilization intertwined with grass and trees.

As we walked, our guide slowed down and softly said, "Just ahead, under that tree, do you see it?"

I looked up and saw a dreamlike scene:

A Buddha head tightly embraced by the roots of a Bodhi tree, embedded between the tree trunk and the earth, like a masterpiece meticulously crafted by nature. The Buddha's eyes were gently closed, with a peaceful expression and a faint smile, as if saying, "It's okay; everything has passed."

This Buddha head was once part of a temple's stupa but fell to the ground during wartime. Decades or centuries later, nature nurtured and placed it within the tree roots, creating today's most touching sight.

This was not burial but an embrace.

I knelt down, hands clasped, and took a photo from a position lower than the Buddha.

As sunlight filtered through the leaves, illuminating the Buddha's face, I seemed to see the river of history flowing gently, with Him silently witnessing the rise and fall, war and peace.

As dusk approached, I lingered before the Tree-Embraced Buddha Head, reluctant to leave. No words were needed, nor any other sights, for today, I had conversed with history and faith.

On the train back to Bangkok, watching the fiery sunset outside the window, my heart felt incredibly calm.

The octagonal Sky Buddha had given me awe, while the Tree-Embraced Buddha Head had offered solace.

In one day, I experienced the perfect fusion of man-made and natural, faith and history, solemnity and tenderness.

【Postscript: Beyond History, Staying Safe Matters】

This journey took us from the Sky Buddha to the Tree-Embraced Buddha Head, from the ruins of time to the roots of faith.

The tuk-tuk adventure added laughter and a touch of fear, but also wisdom.

Travel brings both scenery and risks. May we all journey far and return safely.

We visited a total of eight temples, as Ayutthaya is compact and its temples are concentrated, making it possible to cover them all in one day with a private car.

【Itinerary Highlights】

【First Stop】Prasat Nakhon Luang - Temple of the Buddha's Footprint
"Step into the octagonal Sky Buddha, a dreamlike realm akin to the divine."

Upon arriving in Ayutthaya, we rented a car and headed straight to the outskirts to visit the Temple of the Buddha's Footprint. This secluded site features an octagonal skylight with a massive Buddha statue at its center. Sunlight streaming through the dome illuminated the Buddha's shoulders, as if He were whispering to me. Ethereal and awe-inspiring, this was the most striking moment of my trip.

【Second Stop】Bang Pa-in Palace
"Walking through the gardens once graced by Thai kings."

This summer palace, blending Thai and Western architectural styles, was a retreat for King Rama V. Amid the lake's reflections, golden pavilions and European-style villas stand in harmony. Strolling through, I felt transported to the royal life of the 19th century, with every brick and tile narrating tales of past grandeur.

【Third Stop】Wat Chaiwatthanaram
"The light and shadow of Angkor Wat shimmer in the afternoon heat."

Built in the style of Cambodia's Angkor Wat, this temple was a significant royal site during Ayutthaya's era. Its central tower and surrounding structures are symmetrically arranged, creating a majestic sight. As the evening light cast shadows on the red brick walls, each stone seemed to whisper stories of war and peace.

【Fourth Stop】Wat Phu Khao Thong
"Climbing the white stupa to overlook Ayutthaya's plains."

This massive white stupa is said to have been built during Myanmar's rule. Ascending its steps, the wind whistled in my ears, and below lay Ayutthaya's fertile plains. Distant mountains and temple spires dotted the landscape, evoking a sense of serenity.

【Fifth Stop】Wat Lokaya Sutha
"Does the reclining giant Buddha dream of past glory?"

The highlight here is a 28-meter-long reclining Buddha. With a serene expression and a faint smile, the Buddha seemed to embrace all worldly troubles. As sunlight slanted across the golden cloth draped over the statue, I finally understood the profound reverence Thai people hold for Buddha.

【Sixth Stop】Wat Ratchaburana
"Time has cracked the tower, but it also illuminates our hearts."

The main tower of this temple was damaged by tomb raiders but later restored. Visitors can enter the tower, where faint murals are still visible. In the interplay of light and shadow, I imagined monks of the past copying scriptures and chanting prayers. The old and the new intertwine here.

【Seventh Stop】Wat Phra Mahathat
"The Tree-Embraced Buddha Head: Silent yet deeply moving."

This iconic site features a Buddha head enveloped by Bodhi tree roots, as if nature itself is safeguarding Buddha's wisdom. Standing before the Buddha head, I dared not stand taller than Him, bowing to take photos, my eyes moist with emotion. This is a profound connection to history.

【Eighth Stop】Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
"The giant reclining Buddha and golden robes: A quintessential Thai finale."

This grand temple, featured in "Journey to the West," exudes majesty. Draped in yellow robes, monks meditate, and travelers find peace. The Buddha atop the stupa gazes down at the world, as if saying, "Everything has its time; everything is transient."