Kumano Kodo Nakabe Road Hiking Tour

After two years, I once again embarked on the historic Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. This time, my goal was to tackle the Nakabe Road, an ancient path winding through the Kii Peninsula. After arriving at Kansai Airport, we had to transfer three times, a journey of over three hours, before finally arriving at Kii-Tanabe, the starting point of the Kumano Kodo. This city, rich in history and culture, was our first stop on this journey.

At the Tanabe Tourist Center, we received our dual pilgrim passports, a required certificate for pilgrims. Please note that passports for the entire Nakabe Road must be pre-ordered on the official website; they are not available for sale on-site!

Praying for Safety: Visiting Waraguchi Shrine

After settling our luggage at our guesthouse, we headed to Waraguchi Shrine, a World Heritage Site. This shrine is dedicated to Waraguchi-Omikami, said to be the patron deity of the Kumano Kodo. Here, we prayed for safety and success on our hike for the coming week and immersed ourselves in the shrine's profound historical atmosphere. The red torii gates of Waragi Shrine, set against the backdrop of lush greenery and tranquil surroundings, inspire awe.

Learn More about Local Culture: Minamikusu Kenshokan

Afterwards, we strolled past the Minamikusu Kenshokan. Seeing the 350 yen adult entrance fee, we assumed we needed to purchase a ticket, so we planned to snap a few photos outside and leave. However, the museum staff warmly greeted us, explaining that this is a free public exhibition space, but only open until 5 p.m. A quick glance at our watches revealed it was 4:20 p.m., but fortunately, we were still in time, so we quickly entered.

The Kenshokan is an elegant wooden building housing a wealth of information on Minamikusu and botanical specimens. We initially assumed Minamikusu was a species of tree unique to the area, but later discovered that this great scholar dedicated his life to the study of botanicals and fungi, and his achievements far exceeded our imagination. It's worth noting that Minami Kumagusu shared a deep friendship with Sun Yat-sen, the founding father of the Republic of China. This international friendship has deepened our respect for the life of this great man.

Local Delights: The Izakaya Delights of Amiko Road

At the end of the day, we headed to the renowned Amiko Road, the heart of Kii-Tanabe's culinary culture. At this izakaya, we savored two authentic set dishes: the ginger-glazed pork set and the shigemori eel rice set. The tenderness of the pork and the subtle spiciness of the ginger create a unique flavor, while the eel rice is fragrant and fragrant, leaving every bite unforgettable. To complement these delicacies, we ordered local ginger ale and draft beer, which were the perfect way to rejuvenate after a tiring day.

This day was not only a journey through history and culture, but also a spiritual awakening. Tomorrow's hiking journey officially begins. While the road ahead will be challenging, these unique experiences will become lasting memories of our pilgrimage.

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Post by 武澤天 | Oct 3, 2025