Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Hiking Journey

Challenges and Surprises on Day 3 of the Kumano Kodo

🌅 Starting the day with a hearty breakfast at a cozy mountain town inn, the kind hosts even prepared packed lunches for us, sending us off with warm blessings. At 7:23, we boarded the Ryujin Bus to Nonaka Ipposugi, famous for its giant cedar trees. After alighting, we were briefly misled by navigation, losing about 20 minutes. Thankfully, we adjusted in time and used Google Maps in car mode to find the correct direction.

🚶♂️ At 8:30, we set off from Tsugizakura-oji. Today, we needed to reach Hosshinmon-oji by 2:30 PM to catch the bus to Yunomine Onsen, so we had to pace ourselves steadily. The route involved crossing three small mountains (about 600-800 meters high). While the uphill sections were short, the continuous long downhill stretches were a real test for our knees! Fortunately, with the help of trekking poles, the journey was manageable.

🔥 Princess Xiaoqing was on fire today! After two days of long-distance hiking, she left me far behind in the last 5 kilometers. I could only catch up with her at trail junctions and stamp stations. We finally reached Hosshinmon-oji at 12:50 PM, completing the hike in just about 4.5 hours.

👋 Along the way, we met a lady from Shanghai, China, who planned to complete the Nakahechi route in six days, staying wherever she ended up each day. However, she discovered that many inns do not accept last-minute bookings or were already fully booked. Hearing this, I couldn't help but feel a bit anxious for her. She had previously completed the Camino Francés in Spain solo, a journey she still cherishes and even plans to challenge the Camino del Norte next time!
(📌 Reminder: Accommodations along the Kumano Kodo are very limited, so be sure to book in advance to avoid being left without a place to stay!)

✨ The charm of hiking lies in this: while modern transportation exists, only by walking step by step, treading on every piece of land, seeing every view, and meeting every person, can you create the most precious memories.

🌸 Highlights of Today's Journey
- Tsugizakura-oji 🌸: Once filled with cherry blossoms, offering stunning views in spring.
- Shoheki-daira 🏯: A historic site linked to samurai culture.
- Hebi Jizo 🐍🙏: A unique Jizo statue believed to protect travelers.
- Takahara Shrine 💧: A refreshing rest spot with babbling streams nearby.
- Ibogawa Shrine 🐗: Adorably named, with legends tied to wild boars.
- Hosshinmon-oji ⛩️: The "spiritual gateway" to the sacred Kumano Hongu Taisha, an important pilgrimage site.
- Yunomine-oji ♨️: Connected to Yunomine Onsen, exuding a healing energy. (Note: The stamp pads at the station were all dry, but luckily I had my own and even shared it with a fellow traveler from Hong Kong.)

📍 Today's Route
Tsugizakura-oji → Shoheki-daira → Hebi Jizo → Takahara Shrine → Ibogawa Shrine → Hosshinmon-oji → Yunomine-oji
🚶♀️ Distance: 13 km
🕒 Duration: 5 hours
📖 Stamps Collected: 7

🌃 Tonight's stay is at Yunomine Onsen, one of the most iconic hot spring towns along the Kumano Kodo. After three consecutive days of hiking, it's finally time to relax and rejuvenate! ♨️✨