Experience the most Dongcheng in the Hutongs and see the most Beijing in Dongcheng

  • Number of days:4 days
  • Time: August
  • Average cost: 4,000 yuan
  • With whom:a person
  • Tour kinds: Shopping, Culture
  • The author went to these places: Beijing Forbidden City Donghua Gate Wangfujing Shijia Hutong 77 Cultural and Creative Park Bell and Drum Tower Fangjia Hutong Corner Tower Legend Hotel Imperial Garden Yongding Gate Drum Tower Novotel Shijia Hutong Museum National Art Museum of China Xunjun Prince's Mansion
  • Updated: 2020.08.19

The melodious Beijing dialect, the douzhi (soybean juice) I'm never used to, the densely packed alleys, and the quiet courtyard houses nestled within their walls... these are roughly my general impressions of Beijing.

My initial love for Beijing was, in part, influenced by the writer Lao She. His works, "Camel Xiangzi," "Teahouse," and "Four Generations Under One Roof," captured the everyday life of old Beijing. While it's a far cry from the city of today, they still drew me here to explore the fusion of tradition and modernity.

I left on a whim. A plane ticket to Beijing, and in nearly three hours, I was there.

Before arriving, I'd drawn up an itinerary based on online travel guides. The theme was "East of the Forbidden City." Most of the places I wanted to visit were concentrated in Beijing's Dongcheng District, east of the Forbidden City. For convenience, I also booked accommodations in Dongcheng District. After settling in, we embarked on our 4-day, 3-night trip. Itinerary: Day 1: Arrival - Check-in at the Peace Hotel - Forbidden City - Donghuamen - Wangfujing District Day 2: Shijia Hutong - Guardian Art Center - 77 Creative Park Day 3: Bell and Drum Tower - Fangjia Hutong - Jiaolou Library Day 4: Check-in at the Legendale Hotel - Afternoon Tea - Departure "Everywhere, the seats are laid out in a state of splendour," a line from a poem by Emperor Qianlong describing the Forbidden City. "I Repair Cultural Relics in the Forbidden City" is a documentary I love, and it taught me a lot about the city. With the Forbidden City as the first stop on a Beijing trip, I'm sure many, like me, are eager to explore this palace, a witness to the rise and fall of Chinese history over the centuries. I'm no stranger to the Forbidden City, and this was my second visit. Located in the heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City, also known as the "Purple Forbidden City," housed 24 emperors during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Everywhere you look, the Forbidden City's architectural ensemble is awe-inspiring, majestic, and magnificent. A central axis runs through the entire Forbidden City, traversing the Three Great Halls, the Three Rear Palaces, and the Imperial Garden. This axis, in turn, lies on the central axis of Beijing, extending south to Yongdingmen and north to the Drum and Bell Towers, dividing the city into two symmetrical halves. The construction of the Forbidden City embodies the wisdom and hard work of centuries of laboring people, making it a truly unparalleled masterpiece. Because it's so huge, it's impossible to explore it all in an afternoon. I followed the tourists and took a quick look, but the shock I felt was no less than astonishing. The photos captured the richness of time, making them very easy to photograph. This year, the Forbidden City saw far fewer visitors than in previous years, creating a rare quiet experience. Visiting the Forbidden City allows you to better appreciate every corner and explore it at your leisure.

Exiting the Forbidden City's Donghua Gate, I rode my bike to Wangfujing. As we all know, every city has its own unique commercial street: Chengdu's Chunxi Road, Chongqing's Jiefangbei, and Beijing's ultimate commercial street is Wangfujing.

Wangfujing blends history and novelty, tradition and modernity. The ancient, with the passage of time, has become increasingly aging; the trendy, keeping pace with the times, has become increasingly elegant. There are century-old shops like Ruifuxiang, as well as numerous luxury brands. Central Plaza has become a new landmark on Wangfujing Street. Located on the west side of Wangfujing Street, it occupies a large area. Many world-renowned brands have settled in WF Central, making it a hub for high-end brands.

There are many fashionable young people walking around, and there are many brands that I have never seen before, which shows the inclusiveness and development vitality of the capital. After getting tired of strolling around Wangfujing, the snack street next to it is a great place to fill your stomach. Snacks from all over the country gather here. I felt full after just a few bites and regretted that my stomach was not big enough. I don't want to be too cookie-cutter when traveling; I prefer to seek out classic destinations, and this also applies to hotels. I chose the Novotel Peace Hotel in Beijing, a classic in the eyes of Beijingers. One of the eight major hotels established after the founding of the People's Republic of China, it was also one of the first hotels built after the founding of the People's Republic of China and has witnessed many historical moments. The hotel's west building, built in the 1950s, has been renovated to keep up with the times. Next to it is the main building, built later, which retains its classic style while incorporating more international influences. The hotel lobby is located in the newly built main building, featuring a classic European architectural style. It's a perfect place for photos. Just behind the lobby is Pin Fang Buffet Restaurant, offering all-day dining options including Chinese and Western cuisine. On the second floor are meeting rooms, a gym, and a swimming pool—perfect for those who want to get some exercise during their trip. The Executive Lounge, located on the hotel's rooftop, offers a clear view of the Forbidden City, Wangfujing, and other areas. The hotel's rooms also embrace modern trends, featuring many innovative touches. I stayed in a family suite, which consists of a living room and bedroom. A must-have for any family room is the warm, cartoon-themed elements, which are sure to delight children. The living room features a children's tent and slide, and the bed is decorated with cartoon toys. It's sure to delight children. From the window, you can see Beijing's Jingshan Mountain and the Forbidden City, while nearby are the vibrant hutongs. The courtyard of the Garden Restaurant retains the rockery and pavilions of the Yehenara Natong Palace Garden. Entering the courtyard, you'll feel a sense of tranquility. The cuisine is also exceptionally authentic, offering a variety of Beijing-style dishes and snacks. It's a popular spot for both hotel guests and Beijing locals to entertain friends. Next to the hotel is an authentic old hutong, and just a short walk away is the famous Shijia Hutong. A hutong-hopping experience is a must when visiting Beijing. We recommend waking up early and hopping on a bicycle from the hotel, heading towards the Forbidden City and passing through Beijing's parks to experience a typical Beijing morning. Hutong culture is arguably unique to Beijing, distinct from the alleyways of Shanghai and the streets and alleys of Suzhou. Some say the essence of Beijing's hutong culture is endurance, a willingness to accept challenges head-on. I don't quite agree. In my opinion, Beijing's hutong culture reflects a deep attachment to one's roots, a harmonious neighborhood, and an inseparable memory of the past. Shijia Hutong is a well-preserved example of Beijing's traditional hutong culture. It was once part of the Bordered White Banner in the Qing Dynasty. Shijia Hutong Primary School was once the ancestral hall of Shi Kefa, and Zhang Shizhao also lived there. The Beijing People's Art Theatre also has its dormitories here. Shijia Hutong boasts a beautiful garden inscribed by Deng Yingchao, the Shijia Hutong Museum, the All-China Women's Federation Senior Citizens' Home, and the China Women's Publishing House. This rich cultural heritage imbues Shijia Hutong with intriguing scenery. Take a photo of the hutong in the twilight as a souvenir. Guardian Art Center is located at No. 1 Wangfujing Street, Beijing. When I first saw it, I was struck by its appearance: a huge, silver-grey, irregular building. What kind of divine designer could have created such a beautiful structure?

The architectural style is bold, striking a delicate balance between old and new, placing the new building within the fabric of Beijing's ancient city while harmoniously integrating with its surroundings. The building's base, resembling a rockery of stacked stone, echoes the scale and feel of the adjacent traditional hutong courtyards. A suspended glass ring above embodies the modernity of Beijing as a global metropolis. This is a flexible and rich cultural space, integrated with restaurants, hotels, and public transportation infrastructure. The building's first floor features a 1,700-square-meter, column-free exhibition space with a distinctly postmodern aesthetic, creating a sophisticated and photogenic backdrop. With the rise of innovation, more and more old factories have been transformed into cultural and creative parks. Whether it is the Songshan and Huashan Cultural and Creative Parks in Taiwan, Chengdu’s East Suburb Memory, or Beijing’s 77 Cultural and Creative Park, they have all been given new vitality after transformation. Located just across the street from the National Art Museum of China, the Beijing 77 Cultural and Creative Industry Park stretches from the back street of the art museum in the east to Xiaoqudeng Hutong in the west. Until 2012, the site of the former Beijing Offset Printing Factory was renovated in 2014, attracting a number of well-known cultural enterprises. The park has gradually become a themed cultural park centered around film, television, and theater, achieving a remarkable transformation and a rebirth.

Here you can enjoy traditional theatrical performances and of course take beautiful industrial-style photos. Even if you are naked, it is attractive enough. I learned about Beijing's Bell and Drum Tower through Liu Xinwu's novel "Bell and Drum Tower." The beating of drums in the Drum Tower signals the shift, while the ringing of bells in the Bell Tower heralds the time. This is how the evening drum and morning bell came to be. This ancient method of timekeeping and urban management, passed down from ancient times, provided the people with a reference for their daily lives and work. The Bell Tower and the Drum Tower are located one in front of the other, only a hundred meters apart. They are the best-preserved, largest and tallest group of ancient buildings among the existing bell and drum towers in China. Climbing the stairs and standing on the top of the Drum Tower, you can overlook the surrounding Beijing alleys and courtyards. It seems that the melodious sound of drums is spreading to all directions of Beijing. Due to the epidemic prevention and control, the bell tower is not open to tourists. It is a pity that I couldn’t see the Yongle Bell, the king of ancient bells. After leaving the Bell and Drum Tower, the next destination is Fangjia Hutong. If Shijia Hutong is a gathering place for the arts, then Fangjia Hutong is a significant "machine tool alley" in Beijing's industrial history. Courtyard No. 46 in the hutong is the former site of the China Machine Tool Factory. Here, historical sites such as the Southern School, the Baoquan Bureau's Northern Workshop, Baiyi Temple, the Xunjun Prince's Mansion, the Qing Dynasty's Inner Firearms Camp Cavalry Factory, and the First Library of the Capital reveal a profound cultural heritage. Elderly people enjoying the cool breeze under the trees and kittens napping on the eaves exude a charming atmosphere of life. Some people worry that hutong culture will one day disappear. However, at a time when traditional culture is highly valued, people will only protect it more attentively, preserving these tangible historical vicissitudes and human memories. I don't know when, but visiting the library became a habit in every new city I visit. Here, I see not only young people striving for their dreams, but also elderly people, even into their eighties, who remain true to their original aspirations and dedicate themselves to reading. The beauty of the world can be found in libraries. The Zuoanmen Corner Tower, a landmark of ancient Beijing, has witnessed the city's historical transformation since the Ming and Qing dynasties, experiencing both destruction and rebirth. During the old city's renovation, while surrounded by modern buildings, the Zuoanmen Corner Tower was not swallowed up, but rather reborn. Its ancient architecture has become a natural advantage, contributing to the distinctive character of the Corner Tower Library. Who could have guessed that within these rustic, blue bricks lies a library that showcases 5,000 years of Chinese civilization and the unique culture of Beijing? The repurposed historic buildings have become popular destinations for relaxation and self-cultivation, becoming synonymous with a lifestyle and attitude, slowing down the fast-paced urban life. However, it's possible I chose the wrong time. Since it was closed during the epidemic prevention period, I could only take a quick look from the outside, and it was difficult to get a full inside glimpse of its beauty.

Nowadays, when choosing a hotel, people pay more attention not only to location and service, but also to its appearance. Before I left for Beijing, I was recommended the Legendale Hotel. Its European styling, both exterior and interior, attracted many young women to check it out. The moment I entered the hotel, I was captivated by the lobby's rich European style. Looking up, I saw the hexagonal rooftops stacked one upon the other, a truly magnificent sight. Later, I learned that this hotel served as the host hotel for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, hosting many domestic and international VIPs. I've never advocated for budget travel. Traveling is inherently enjoyable, and sacrificing safety or significant discounts for the sake of it is not worth the effort. Therefore, doing the best you can within your means is the true travel attitude. The lobby is a breathtaking spectacle, with the cascading floors creating a breathtaking spectacle. Numerous sculptures and artworks can be seen from the lobby itself, further enhancing the hotel's artistic flair. The staircases flanking the lobby are a popular photo spot, and compared to online photos, they're even more stunning in person. The second floor houses a café and is also a popular photo spot, allowing you to capture photos of the floors and the ground-floor lobby. This time, I experienced the Legendale Suite. The entrance hallway is a work of art. The spacious living room, with its thoughtfully placed sofa, dining table, and desk, creates a sense of European elegance in photos. The decor and every detail exude a refined feel. The welcome fruit and thoughtful card upon arrival instantly dispel any sense of unfamiliarity with Beijing. The large bed and bathtub are what really captivated me here. The desk, lamp, and TV stand—every corner offers a perfect spot for photos. It feels a bit of a waste for a grown man to stay in such a suite. After a good night's sleep, I slept right through until noon. After tidying up, I headed straight to the 16th-floor Executive Lounge for afternoon tea. Afternoon tea is arguably the most popular feature of the Legendale Hotel. The 16th-floor Executive Lounge offers not only panoramic views of the Forbidden City and the Wangfujing shopping district, but also the hotel's signature afternoon tea. Each dessert is meticulously crafted, and paired with the tea, it makes for a truly relaxing afternoon.

Since I was staying on the executive floor, I could enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the executive lounge. Dining in a hotel isn't as expensive as I might imagine, and the cuisine is exquisite, with both Chinese and international dishes available. This way, I could easily spend quite a while here without even leaving the hotel.

It was time to return. The hotel's airport shuttle service was incredibly thoughtful, taking me straight to the airport from the hotel. I hate how time flies by before I've had enough of exploring old Beijing's alleyways; I hate how time flies by before I've had enough of old Beijing snacks; I hate how time flies by before I've learned a few words of authentic Beijing dialect...

Haizi once said, "If I could, I'd like to be a traveler, unconcerned with the past, unfazed by the future. My only fear is that I won't be able to travel the world in my lifetime—that would be my sorrow."

This sentence resonates deeply with me. Life is only a few decades long, so do your best to make it bloom, travel through thousands of mountains and rivers, experience the various aspects of life, and take in the charm of cities. Return still a young man.


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