Fragrant Mountain's First Colors - Fragrant Mountain is not only famous for its red leaves, but also offers opportunities for enjoying flowers in spring, escaping the scorching summer heat, and stepping into the snow in winter. The beauty of Fragrant Mountain requires careful integration.

Number of days：3 days
Time: October
With whom: and friends
The author went to these places: Xiangshan Beijing Hilton Shuangqing Villa Xiangshan Hotel Zhongnanhai Kunming Lake Drum Tower
Updated: 2022.08.01

Mid-autumn, Fragrant Mountain begins to bloom with the first colors. Mr. Zheng, Secretary to the Board, enthusiastically arranged for us to climb Fragrant Mountain again on October 22nd, accompanied by former colleagues Ms. Dong and Mr. Wu.

I've climbed Fragrant Mountain several times before. The first was an autumn day in the late 1980s, and aside from being breathless, I bear no trace of it. The most recent was a weekend in the winter of 2017, chilled by a sharp wind. Starting at around 5:00 a.m., I took the southern route from the East Gate, reaching the summit of Xianglu Peak just as sunrise. Then, I descended along the northern route, returning to my Beijing residence a little after 10:00.

These two climbs were made nearly 40 years apart. Learning is like learning in youth; with dreams in mind, climbing is at most for the sake of checking in. As I approach old age, having worked in Beijing for several years and not visited any tourist attractions, climbing is a farewell trip, a mere closure to my career. Neither of these two trips to Fragrant Mountain was the best time to see the red leaves.

This trip to Beijing was primarily for meetings. Although it wasn't something I'd chosen, I did catch up with old acquaintances and colleagues I hadn't seen in years. I had drinks three times in three nights, did morning exercises at four or five in the morning every day, and only managed to get two or three hours of sleep each night. By comparison, the revisit to Xiangshan Mountain arranged by the company's secretary was worth the anticipation.

After a morning jog, I took a hot shower and sat down in a corner of the Hilton restaurant, feeling refreshed. Since developing diabetes, I've been eating a simple diet, and breakfast at a five-star hotel with fresh vegetables has become a favorite. A plate of vegetables, a cup of coffee and milk, and a few slices of bread, I'd fueled up for the climb.

Outside the East Gate, a crowd was thronging. During the pandemic, online ticket reservations were available, and at a very cheap 10 yuan, many people scanned the QR code and purchased their tickets upon arrival, leading to a large crowd in the square. During the coronavirus pandemic, wearing a mask was mandatory for entry. Hiking the mountain while wearing a mask was both a necessity and a beautiful sight. Passing through the Zhongling Yuxiu Archway, we saw two trees laden with crimson leaves in front of the Qinzheng Hall, like a popular advertisement for a popular product, as if to announce that it's the perfect time to view the red leaves in Xiangshan, attracting many visitors to stop and take photos. Xiangshan, formerly known as Jingyi Garden, gets its name from the large rock on its summit shaped like an incense burner, often surrounded by clouds and mist that resemble wisps of incense rising into the sky. Xiangshan boasts breathtaking scenery. In autumn, the cotinus coggygria transforms, blanketing the mountain in vibrant crimson. Every mid-autumn season, tourists flock to the area; at peak times, the sight of the crimson leaves outnumbers the crowds. There are many routes up the mountain. Guided by Dong and Wu, we climbed along the route that leads to Shuangqing Villa, Hongguang Temple, Yuxiang Pavilion, Langfeng Pavilion, Xiangwu Cave, the platform, and the Guijianchou (Ghost-Seeing Sorrow) trail. Ms. Dong rarely hikes, so she stopped at Shuangqing Villa and went to the Xiangshan Hotel for tea and wait. Mr. Wu, drenched in sweat, arrived at Xiangwu Cave. I persuaded him to stay and slowly descend. Without watching his companions, he ascended the steps alone, pacing quickly, constantly outpacing the crowd, and soon reached Xianglu Peak.

Fragrant Hills Park boasts a 900-year history. As early as the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, the imperial family built villas and villas in Xiangshan, where the emperors would cool off and hunt in the summer and autumn. The park boasts numerous cultural relics and historical sites, with pavilions and towers scattered throughout the mountains and forests, making it difficult to explore them all. Shuangqing Villa, where Chairman Mao worked and lived, is located on the southeast slope of Xiangshan and is a must-see on almost every trip to Xiangshan.

Originally, Shuangqing Villa was Songwu Yunzhuang within Jingyi Garden during the Qing Dynasty. It was burned down by the British and French forces in 1860 and later converted into a private residence by Xiong Xiling, the founder of the Xiangshan Charity Home. On March 25, 1949, after the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China and the headquarters of the Chinese People's Liberation Army moved from the northwest slope of Xiangshan, Shuangqing Villa became Chairman Mao's office and residence. On September 21, Chairman Mao moved from Shuangqing Villa in Xiangshan to the Juxiang Study in Zhongnanhai. This was the headquarters during the transition period from the People's Liberation War to national victory and a historical witness to the preparations for the founding of New China. Our generation holds immense reverence for the founders of New China. When we talk about these great men, we always address them respectfully as Chairman Mao and Premier Zhou, never by name. With reverence, we visited the offices and residences of Chairman Mao, Premier Zhou, Commander-in-Chief Zhu, and Comrade Shaoqi. We waited in line for half an hour to visit the Laiqingxuan Xiangshan Revolutionary Memorial Site, recalling Chairman Mao's immense love for his country and people, from his own family to his country and the world. This deepened our memory of the great leader Chairman Mao and the people's beloved Premier. The highest point of Xiangshan is Xianglu Peak, at 557 meters. This peak, though not particularly high for ordinary people, was a formidable obstacle for the imperial family. Climbing a flight of steep stone steps to the summit, even a strong wind couldn't stop the sweat from pouring down. Standing atop the mountain, the breeze washed away the sweat while I took in the panoramic view. Looking east, the crystal-clear Kunming Lake reflected the bustling city of Beijing like a mirror. It was October, and the mountains were a blanket of dark green. Though there were crimson leaves, these were only the first signs of autumn. A group of young, student-like people chattered and walked regretfully down the mountain. Their complaints reminded me of the two trees in front of the Qinzheng Hall. They stood in a place where purple air descended from the east, yet their crimson robes preceded the mountain itself, a true advertisement. In fact, the beauty of Xiangshan goes far beyond the crimson leaves. As an imperial garden steeped in history, rich in cultural heritage, and steeped in mountain forests, Xiangshan offers a unique blend of beauty, whether you enjoy blossoms in spring, escape the heat in summer, or explore the snowy landscapes of winter. The key lies in the visitor's mindset. Climbing through the tranquil green fields, deep valleys and dense forests, and atop steep peaks, stopping at Shuangqing Villa, Hongguang Temple, Yuxiang Pavilion, Xiangwu Cave, and Xianglu Peak, you'll be filled with the fragrant, elegant fresh air and the refreshing fragrance of books, a fragrance veiled in the pristine, natural tranquility of millennia. This freshness gently blends with the soul. The beauty of Xiangshan requires heartfelt appreciation and soulful perception.

(Visited Xiangshan on October 22, 2020, written in Nanjing on November 4)