Live Your Best Lives
No ancient capital is as rough as Beijing, yet it conceals a tenderness. The old city's crumbling walls once held memories of Lin Haiyin's "Old South of the City" and were imbued with the human touch described by Lao She. Those who love Beijing never simply love its "grandeur." Even if the weather, transportation, and housing prices aren't ideal, the vibrant cultural and artistic communities nestled alongside its historic sites are what keep this city vibrant and charming.
Beijing's transportation isn't a headache; the subway and buses are both very convenient. Upon arrival in Beijing, you can apply for a municipal transportation card at the subway station (a 20 yuan deposit, refundable upon return). This card offers a 50% discount on buses, saves you from queuing for subway tickets, and can be used to pay for taxi fares. If you're staying in Beijing for five or six days, simply top up your card with around 80 yuan. If you don't plan on taking the bus, you don't need this card. Download the "EasyPass" app on your phone and ride the subway directly. A navigation app is essential, but I prefer Baidu Maps. Beijingers are very welcoming, especially the grandmothers. They'll give you clear directions if you ask, and their Beijing dialect is so pleasant to listen to. Tips: 1. If you're leaving before 6:00 AM, it's recommended to try Beijing's buses. There are also safety officers on board to remind the elderly to hold on and help with luggage or heavy items.
2. Beijing public transportation fares are segmented: 2 yuan for the first 10 kilometers, and 1 yuan for every 5 kilometers thereafter. A 50% discount applies when you swipe your card. Remember to swipe your card when getting on and off the bus (if you don't swipe your card after getting off, the full mileage, undiscounted fare will be deducted).
3. For buses with three doors, board through the middle door and exit through the front or back door (the opposite of Wuxi).
4. The first subway starts operating around 5:10 AM. If traveling, avoid rush hours between 7:30 AM and 9:30 AM and 5:00 PM and 7:00 PM, as they can be very crowded.
Day 1
Old Beijing Chai's
Lunchtime can be very crowded, so find a seat and scan the QR code to order to avoid long lines. The downside is that the braised beef is only available in 2 taels, half a catty, or a catty sizes, and you can queue for 9 yuan per tael, starting at 2 taels.
Ordering via WeChat delivered incredibly quickly. The highlight of this place is the broth used to stew the beef. The beef broth noodles (without beef) are 12 yuan. While beef noodles are on the menu, I recommend against ordering them. The more accurate approach is to order the plain noodles with the broth and a side dish of braised beef in soy sauce. The noodles are round and chewy, with a bit more texture than those in Wuxi and Suzhou. The broth is deep, though a bit salty on its own. The meaty aroma permeates, and the shredded cabbage is refreshing. This is a very fragrant and delicious bowl of noodles.
Chai's Cold Noodles are 16 yuan, a summer special, available in both spicy and non-spicy varieties. The toppings were refreshing, with shredded cucumber, xinmi, chopped green onions, and sesame sauce all present. The aftertaste was sweet, but the sesame sauce wasn't strong enough and was a bit watery, which was still good.
I also asked the waiter for two bowls of noodle soup, which was the original soup. The meal was very satisfying and delicious.
Zengshengkui Snack Shop
This shop is quite famous, having been open since 1928. I went there just to enjoy a bite of tofu pudding and sugar-coated pancakes. When I arrived at 5:30, there were three people in line ahead of me. By the time we finished eating and left at 6:10, the line was already quite long. Their dine-in and takeout lines are separated by two windows, but there's only one person manning the line, so if you can't take care of one end, you have to wait for the other, so it's essentially still a single line. This place is very cheap; you can get a good breakfast for only 5 yuan per person.
The food in the window was all cold, and seeing so many Mendeng meat patties, I canceled my plan to eat the Mendeng sesame cakes.
Their soy milk is incredibly rich. One morning, I passed by the entrance to an alley and saw a pile of soy dregs on the ground. I decided to order some. I wasn't disappointed, with a rich, soy aroma.
Tiananmen Square
After a five-minute security check along Chang'an Avenue, we arrived at the Tiananmen Gate Tower. It was 7:20 in the morning, and the sky was clear. The Forbidden City wasn't open yet, so we went through the underground passage to the other side and visited the National Museum of China, the Great Hall of the People, Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, and the Monument to the People's Heroes.
Forbidden City
At 8:10, we joined the crowd through Duanmen Gate and entered the Forbidden City. Since it wasn't a holiday or weekend, we arrived quickly and were standing in front of Taihemen Gate by 8:31. During peak holiday season, it's a good idea to first walk to Donghuamen and then to Wumen Gate, which saves you about an hour of waiting in line at Tiananmen Gate for security. My Forbidden City tour route is: Meridian Gate - Golden Water Bridge - Xihe Gate - Broken Rainbow Bridge - Eighteen Locust Trees - Taihe Gate - Taihe Hall - Zhonghe Hall - Baohe Hall - Jianting - Yanxi Palace - Chengqian Palace - Yonghe Palace - Tongshunzhai - Imperial Garden - Wanchun Pavilion - Zhazao Hall - Duixiu Mountain - Chuxiu Palace - Tihe Hall - Yikun Palace - Taiji Hall - Cining Palace - Shoukang Palace - Cining Garden - Linxi Pavilion - Grand Council - Yongshou Palace - Qianqing Gate - Large Stone Sculptures - Qianqing Palace - Jiaotai Hall - Kunning Palace - Imperial Garden - Tianyi Gate - Qin'an Hall - Jifu Gate - Shenwu Gate The Forbidden City is the largest of the five great palaces in the world. It was home to 24 emperors from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Unfortunately, only 76% of the Forbidden City is currently open to the public, leaving us wanting more. We wandered from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM, visiting almost every part of the Forbidden City, save for some closed to the public due to renovations, such as the Hall of Mental Cultivation and the Hall of Imperial Supreme Ultimate. There was a brief shower, so I rested in the shade for about an hour. The rest of the time I was constantly walking and looking at the exhibitions in the various palaces. Stepping into the Forbidden City, with its vermilion walls and bright yellow roofs, felt like stepping back into the days of the monarchy and his subjects.
The Forbidden City
The Forbidden City
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Forbidden City
Zhengyangmen
Xiyuanju Old Beijing Shabu-Shabu (Qianmen Store)
Shabu-shabu is a Beijing necessities, so much so that one can't help but feel anxious if they don't try it. Shabu-shabu is widely divided into two main schools: the plain school, exemplified by Beijing's copper pot hot pot, and the more diverse soup-based school. As a Beijing native, I'd like to recommend an authentic Beijing hot pot restaurant that Beijingers would go to.
Xiyuanju Old Beijing Hot Pot~
When it comes to Beijing hot pot, the criteria for a good one are nothing more than two things: good meat and good dipping sauce
Located on the 2nd floor of No. 2A Qianmen Street, 2nd floor of Qianmen Subway Station (2nd floor of KFC).
It is always fully booked even on hot days. If the weather is cold, you will need to queue. The queue is often 50+
Xiyuanju Old Beijing Shabu-shabu Taste: Speaking of Old Beijing Shabu-shabu, it is different from other hot pots in that it has the characteristics of being cooked in a copper pot, the meat must be hand-cut, and a plate of bean curd sheets is served. The only dish is cabbage and vermicelli, served with sesame sauce. This is what real Beijingers who don’t like cumbersome things need in winter. The key to hand-cut meat is its appearance. It should be red and white, fat and lean. It cannot be all lean. It should taste good with a little fat. The cooking time should be well controlled. If it is too short, it will not be cooked, and if it is too long, it will be overcooked. 10 seconds is just right. Put it on the sesame sauce and take a bite. The hot and thick lamb is coated with the sweetness of sesame sauce. The taste is super good. Xiyuanju's Old Beijing Shabu-shabu's top-brain is incredibly tender, with a crispy texture and no overpowering lamb flavor, though the lamb flavor is also slightly muted. If you cook it for the recommended 12 seconds, it becomes a bit more tender, like a young girl's skin. A little more done is more satisfying, and it remains fresh and tender. [Their own fresh lamb top-brain] was the best dish of the night, with a bright red color, crisp and tender, and a strong lamb flavor that rivaled even the Nanmen variety. Even those who haven't always been fans of fresh-cut top-brain still ate a lot and gave it high praise. Xiyuanju's Old Beijing Shabu-shabu's own 100-day-old lamb is the most tender, and the top-brain has the most fat, resulting in a soft, fragrant, and not greasy texture.
Moreover, the old Beijing waiter told us that shabu-shabu mutton is very different from hot pot. Shabu-shabu mutton tastes much more particular than hot pot. The sauce alone is very particular. The secret sesame sauce is made from 31 kinds of seasonings.
Xiyuanju Old Beijing Shabu-shabu mutton. After the dipping sauce is ready, the way of eating it is also very particular. Not only is there a precise time limit for shabu-shabu meat, but even the dipping sauce is also particular. After the fresh mutton is cooked, dip it in a little sesame sauce while it is still warm. Every bite is so satisfying~
Xiyuanju Old Beijing Hot Pot
Xiyuanju Old Beijing Hot Pot After boiling the meat, the soup base becomes even more flavorful. I can't wait to slide a whole plate of shrimp into the pot~ The shrimp paste is made with rich ingredients, and you can taste the fresh shrimp and the texture is chewy. Day 2: Badaling Great Wall. While there are several sections of the Great Wall in Beijing, Badaling is the most popular and famous. If I weren't traveling with elderly people, I'd definitely consider Jiankou Great Wall. Both for its photography and its rugged terrain, I'd be drawn to it. If you're not going to Badaling, I recommend Mutianyu, which is less crowded and offers stunning scenery. There weren't many people hiking up North 1 to North 8, and since it wasn't a weekend or holiday, the weather was cool, making the hike easy. The landscape was crisscrossed with gullies, beacon towers stood tall, and all I could see was a blanket of green.
Badaling Great Wall
The scenery from the North 9th to the North 11th Tower of the Badaling Great Wall is more beautiful than the crowded scene in front, but at the same time, there are also difficult areas with nearly 90-degree straight ups and downs that need to be overcome. Badaling Great Wall
Badaling Great Wall
Badaling Great Wall
This main store is very close to Nanluoguxiang, and there aren't the long lines you'd expect online. Their steamed buns are handmade with water-soaked flour. They're quite substantial, with layers upon layers, and are very chewy. Half a bun is enough to fill you up.
The red bean buns are 2.5 yuan each. The filling is made from adzuki beans, and you can still see the soft shells. It's delicate, not overly sweet, and very fragrant. I quite like this filling. As for the bun wrapper, as we say here, it's "unleavened" dough that hasn't risen yet, which is a bit sticky.
Whole-wheat steamed buns are 1.2 yuan each, simple enough with just a small amount of bran added to the dough. They're also heavy and a bit dry. I still prefer Yangzhou steamed buns to the more savory ones from the north.
If there's a long line at this store, walk a few steps to the branch on Andingmen Inner Street for a much better experience.
Day 3
Yaer Li Ji
Yaer Li Ji has four locations in Houhai, one every few dozen meters, and is incredibly famous. Arriving at 6:20 AM, there was a short line, but after 10 minutes, it started to fill up. I tried their soy milk and millet porridge, both of which were bland. The sugar-coated pancakes had been refrigerated for a while, so they were warm, chewy but not crispy. There wasn't much brown sugar, and they tasted several notches inferior to Zengshengkui. Li Ji's Golden Baked Buns are 1 yuan each. Their salt and pepper buns are their most famous. There's no limit on the takeout window, but only for dine-in orders, so many people line up at the takeout counter to take home. They use semi-fermented dough, mixed with sesame paste, Sichuan peppercorns, and salt. The dough is cooked to a perfect temperature, resulting in a crispy, fragrant, and layered bun. Northern sesame buns are a bit more substantial, and while they're only the size of a palm, they're still filling enough to last a while. Give it a try. The entire Shichahai area is divided into Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai. Day and night offer completely different experiences. Having experienced the bustle of Houhai Bar Street at night, I've also experienced the tranquility of Qianhai in the early morning. Along the way, I explored the surrounding hutongs: the Lotus Market, Jinding Bridge, Yinding Bridge, Ya'er Hutong, Ganlu Hutong, the Former Residence of Soong Ching Ling, Wild Duck Island, Yangfang Hutong, Liuyin Street, Prince Gong's Mansion, Xiaoxiangfeng Hutong, and the Former Residence of Guo Moruo. Beihai Park A light drizzle began to fall in the morning, which made for a leisurely stroll through the park. However, we'd anticipated the weather in Beijing. The temperature had been 30 degrees Celsius the day before, but it suddenly dropped to 20 degrees Celsius, a chilly 20 degrees. We walked the northern route, visiting Jingxinzhai, the Nine Dragon Screen, the Western Paradise, the Five Dragon Pavilion, Xiaoxitian, and, most notably, the White Pagoda. We didn't take a boat trip.
Wang Pangzi Donkey Meat Hot Bread (Gulou Branch)
I love this donkey meat hot bread so much, I just went there two nights in a row. The spicy and sour cabbage hearts and five-spice tofu shreds were generous portions, and the crispy melons were perfectly balanced. Paired with the thick and delicious millet porridge, it was a perfect comfort to my stomach. Donkey hotpot comes in two varieties: premium and standard. Premium is pure lean meat with tendons, while standard is a mix of fat and lean. The heat of the freshly rolled and baked hotpot is crucial; the second-night hotpot is crispier and more delicious than the first. The braised donkey slices and green peppers complement the tender, crispy hotpot, and are best enjoyed hot with a sip of donkey broth.
Day 4
Niujie Muslim Snack Market
There are definitely some dietary differences between people in Jiangnan and northern China. Since I was traveling with my mom, I avoided offal or fried foods. So, I won't comment on douzhi (soy bean juice), stir-fried liver, fried tripe, braised pork belly, fried cakes, fried dough rings, sausage, spareribs, or candied ears. My mom loves snacks, especially noodles, so we ate a lot of sesame cakes, huoshao (steamed buns), steamed buns, and baozi (stuffed buns). I'm quite willing to put some effort into my food.
Beijing has Niujie, a must-visit for foodies, boasting a plethora of restaurants and snack shops of all sizes. The most famous is Jubaoyuan, though locals rarely visit it. There's also Hongji Snack Shop, Cheese Wei, and the Niujie Halal Supermarket on the first floor, where you'll find Yibao Lotus Leaf Zenggao and Baiji Rice Cake, as well as Laochengyi, which specializes in lamb ribs. However, compared to the more famous Niujie, I recommend turning a corner and heading to Yinghutong; the food is even better. This is the city's largest Hui Muslim enclave, so there's plenty of authentic beef, mutton, and halal snacks. Niujie Halal Beef and Mutton Market is also home to Beijing's best beef and mutton wholesale market. If you know how to cook beef and mutton, buy some fresh meat early. At the intersection of Jiaozi Hutong and Jinlu Hutong, I stumbled upon an old man's bun stall. At 6:25, there was a line of five or six people, each buying 10 or 20 buns. The buns only had one filling: beef and scallions. They were piled in baskets on a simple tricycle, with a table next to them, filled with vinegar and chili oil. The buyers looked like locals, some even eating their buns right on the spot, dipping them into the chili oil, their mouths watering.
Seeing the crowd, we joined the queue. We only had two coins, just enough to buy one.
The buns were made in a haphazard manner. Honestly, they weren't as pretty as my mom's. The wrappers looked like they were randomly pulled together. The buns were small, some thin and soaked with gravy, others so thick you couldn't even bite into the filling. The meat filling is a bit salty, but the filling is really good. My mom loves it, and I think a lighter flavor would be better. It's worth a try. I looked it up after returning, and it turns out it's quite famous. It's said the old man has been selling it for 20 years, starting around 4 a.m. every morning and closing up shop before 9 p.m. If you want to try it, you'll have to get up early. Be prepared with change; they only accept cash. Honeymoon Shaobing (Shrimp Pastry) The shops in the Hutong area are quite small and easy to miss, crammed together. This one is next to the Niujie Halal Beef and Mutton Market. Seeing that it specialized in shaobing (sesame cakes), I was quite happy to give it a try. After all, since they only serve shaobing, they probably wouldn't be bad. There are only two flavors of sesame seed cakes: salt and pepper and sesame paste, both 1 yuan each, buy 5 get 1 free. I was just deciding how many to buy when two people showed up and each took 100 and left. Yes, you read that correctly, 100.
The sesame seed cakes are probably more popular with the locals, as they're the most popular flavor. I tried both.
To make a good sesame seed bun, use semi-fermented dough. The stir-fried sauce should include not only sesame paste, Sichuan peppercorns, and salt, but also a moderate amount of fennel. It's best pan-fried before baking. The sesame seed bun had decent texture, a crispy crust, and lacked the sesame and fennel flavors. However, at just 1 yuan per bun, it's a great value and highly recommended.
The seemingly ordinary salt and pepper bun was baked to a fragrant, crispy texture. A bite of the crust offered a crackling sound, while the multi-layered cross-section inside was soft and chewy, with the aroma of wheat and sesame, and a light saltiness. It was finished in just a few bites, leaving a strong sense of fullness.
It's said that their fried chicken legs are also delicious, but I went there early and they weren't available yet. If you're passing by and interested, give it a try. You can't go wrong buying sesame cakes. Highly recommended.
Shiji Muslim Sesame Cakes and Pastries
The shopfront is small and there's no sign. I only discovered it when I turned back down the alley. Fortunately, it wasn't crowded. The shop doesn't sell much: three flavors of pastries (beef and scallion 5.5 yuan/piece, beef and leek 5 yuan/piece, beef and fennel 5 yuan/piece), sesame sesame cakes 1.2 yuan/piece, and millet porridge 1 yuan.
Of course, I prefer the beef and scallion filling. Many people like to drizzle vinegar on their pies, but I prefer the original flavor. A gentle bite into the dough reveals a rich, fragrant beef broth. The thinness of the dough is almost unnoticeable, leaving only the satisfying flavor of beef and scallions. Delicious.
When I left, the shop had freshly baked sesame pancakes, but I didn't try them due to my limited appetite. It's a bit bigger than the Honeymoon Shaobing and smells just as delicious.
There are two other Beijing snacks: the Dalan Huoshao (roasted buns) and the Mending Roubing (meat pie). I think they're essentially similar to their beef pie, but the beef pie is definitely more satisfying.
Niujie Hongji Snack Shop
Hongji Snack Shop is a well-known spot on Niujie Street. They have a wide variety of halal snacks, and each window sells different items, so be sure to check the lines carefully to avoid getting in the wrong place. The lines for fried cakes and dine-in are the longest, while the rice cake and bun counters are mostly empty. Seeing the warm buns, I bought one to try.
Beef buns, 2 yuan each. Northern buns are not very big, with soft wrappers and not much filling. The seasoning is lighter than the one sold by the old man at the entrance of Input Hutong, which suits my taste better. As for whether it tastes amazing? No, it's just an ordinary bun.
This place is also famous for its toothpick meat and diced beef. They also have snacks like pea yellow, donkey rolls, sugar-coated fruit, jujube and vegetable steamed bread. If you're interested, feel free to try them yourself.
Summer Palace
The Summer Palace is a beautiful and beloved place. A leisurely six-hour stroll through the lush greenery of the lake, dotted with lotus leaves. A sense of tranquility. The winding West Causeway is beautiful, a scene changing with every step, its weeping willows like curtains and mist. The peaks of the Western Hills, the shadow of the Yuquan Pagoda, the blue waters of Kunming, the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, the Art Gallery… “Where can I find the best place to express my feelings in Yanshan? Kunming is the place with unparalleled beauty and beauty.”
Summer Palace
Summer Palace
Summer Palace
Summer Palace
Summer Palace
Si Ji Min Fu Roast Duck Restaurant (Wangfujing Dengshikou Branch)
After a night out on Wangfujing Street, I wandered through a small alley to this Dengshikou branch. I arrived at 9pm and waited about 20 minutes to be seated. The appetizer fruit was sweet lychees.
The crispy and tender roast duck is 228 yuan per piece, which has increased in price. It was 198 yuan per piece before. The roast duck is roasted in a braised oven with a shiny reddish-brown shell and is full of fat. The first plate of duck skin is dipped in white sugar and the duck breast lacks warmth and is paired with slightly salty mashed garlic. Personally, I don’t like these two ways of eating it.
The pea sprouts are 29 yuan, with sweet seasoning, very appetizing and refreshing, and with peanuts added.
Day 5
Daoxiangcun
There are several Daoxiangcun shops on the streets of Beijing, including those from Suzhou and Hebei. Only the ones with the Sanhe logo are Beijing Daoxiangcun. Before leaving Beijing, I saw them for sale at the train station. They were all packaged in bags, unlike the ones sold in stores, and the prices were slightly higher. Because they were heavy, I only brought ox tongue biscuits and hawthorn pot cakes. I absolutely love this hawthorn guokui. The outer layer is crispy and creamy, while the hawthorn filling inside has a playful acidity and a subtle sweetness, ultimately achieving a harmonious balance within the slightly glutinous paste. The individual melon seeds find their way into the crispy filling, smoothing out the sharp acidity and adding to the overall texture of the pastry. Most importantly, it's not greasy at all and has a refreshing taste.
Number of days: 1 day, , Updated: 2023.05.02
Number of days: 2 days, Average cost: 500 yuan, Updated: 2021.11.07
Number of days：5 days, Average cost: 3000 yuan,
Number of days：3 days, Average cost: 3000 yuan,
Number of days: 2 days, Average cost: 1,000 yuan,
Number of days: 1 day, Average cost: 300 yuan,
