Live Your Best Lives
Exploring a Century-Old Town in the Suburbs of Beijing
-- Travelogue of Gubeikou Town
I love traveling, getting close to nature, and savoring cultural heritage sites. Gubeikou is a sacred place in my heart. Over 20 years ago, I passed by Gubeikou Station and saw the Wohushan Great Wall looming in the mist, which sparked endless reverie. Later, I made a special trip with friends to climb the Wohushan Wild Great Wall and ascend to the highest watchtower. Gazing out at the rolling peaks and Miyun Reservoir, I savored the magnificent scenery and was captivated by the ancient border town.
Gubeikou Town, steeped in history and steeped in rugged terrain, is known as the "Key to the Capital." Located in Miyun County, northeast of Beijing, it forms the city's Dragon Vein. It serves as a vital transportation route to the Northeast, Inner Mongolia, and even the North China Plain, serving as Beijing's northeastern gateway. Gubeikou, a historically important town with a thousand-year-old military base at its core, has always been a battleground for military strategists. With a coiled dragon in the east and a crouching tiger in the west, and the mighty Chaohe River in between, Gubeikou, nestled between two mountains and a river, became a crucial pass during the era of cold weapons, where a single man could hold the fort against ten thousand. Ancient Chinese people described Gubeikou as follows: "Mountains rise in layers to the east and west, leaving only a handful of riders to pass; Heaven's will has divided the north and south, so what can it do today?" The first Great Wall was constructed at Gubeikou in 556 AD during the seventh year of the Tianbao reign of the Northern Qi Dynasty. After the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, the renowned anti-Japanese general Qi Jiguang was commissioned to strengthen border defenses, and the reconstruction of the Jizhen Great Wall was a key component. The Gubeikou Great Wall comprises the Crouching Tiger Mountain Great Wall, the Panlong Mountain Great Wall, the Jinshanling Great Wall, and the Simatai Great Wall. This is an unrenovated section of the ancient Great Wall. Through the broken walls, you can truly feel its grandeur and melancholy. Gubeikou Ancient Town also boasts numerous scenic spots, including the Yang Linggong Temple, the God of Wealth Temple, the Medicine King Temple, the Niangniang Temple, and the Erlang Temple. On a beautiful autumn day, I embarked on a journey to explore Gubeikou Town by train from the Huaimi Express. I booked a ticket for train S501 on the Huaimi Line through the 12306 website (if you haven't booked a ticket, you can purchase it at the Beijing North Railway Station suburban railway ticket window). The train departs Beijing North Station at 6:56 AM and arrives at Gubeikou Station at 9:23 AM, taking two and a half hours. The fare is 12 RMB. For the return trip, I took train S504, departing Gubeikou Station at 5:20 PM and arriving at Beijing North Station at 7:52 PM. The fare is also 12 RMB. Huaimi Line train tickets don't have seat numbers; you can find a seat wherever you like, even on non-holidays when the train is less crowded. Beijing North Railway Station is located in Xizhimen. Subway Lines 2, 4, and 13 all have Xizhimen stations. Signs are located at the exits of the subway station, and it takes less than a minute to reach the entrance to Beijing North Railway Station.
The train arrives at its final stop, Gubeikou Station, at 9:23 am.
There is a bus shuttle bus sign at the exit. It takes about 20 minutes to drive from Gubeikou Railway Station to Gubei Water Town, and it is free for senior citizens. Tip: The shuttle bus only has a 15-minute wait and departs on time. If you miss the bus, take a taxi to Gubeikou Town for 20 yuan per stop, or 50 yuan to Gubei Water Town. The return bus departure time varies on weekdays and holidays.
There is a fitness park next to the sign for the scenic spot where residents are basking in the sun, exercising, and chatting. This well was named after Emperor Kangxi. People used to fight and queue up to draw water from it. Later, Emperor Kangxi suggested covering the well with a large stone slab, leaving three holes so people could draw water. A rumor later spread that the water from the same well tasted different when drawn through different holes. The well is now protected. The streets of the ancient town are neat and clean, and the residents do a good job of sorting their domestic waste. On both sides of the street are well-preserved old houses and new residences with blue bricks and gray tiles.
The old houses in the old days had a screen wall with the word "Fu" in front of the door.
The entrance of the old house
The moon gate of the inner house
There are also eye-catching new houses on the roadside, showing the quiet changes in the ancient town.
Continue walking south along the old street and you will arrive at Yang Linggong Temple. Originally built in 1025, the Yang Linggong Temple faces south and features two courtyards, including a mountain gate, corner gates, a front hall, a rear hall, and east and west meditation rooms. The entire temple covers approximately 1,200 square meters and has undergone five renovations. During the early years of the Cultural Revolution, statues were destroyed, along with the mountain gate and two front and back halls. A restoration was then carried out in 1993, adhering to its original appearance. On the outer wall of the mountain gate are inscribed "威震边关" (awesomely strangled border defense), while on the east wall, "气壮山河" (spiritedly majestic mountains and rivers)—eight striking characters, each measuring one meter square. Their imposing and powerful calligraphy complements the ancient temple perfectly. Yang Jiye and his family have long held a special place in people's hearts. Their loyalty and bravery were recognized as national heroes who fought against foreign invaders. Every year on the 14th day of the ninth lunar month, Yang Linggong’s birthday, the local people hold a three-day temple fair, with opera performances, yangko dances, and stalls. People from hundreds of miles around come to the temple fair, making it very lively.
The gate of Yang Linggong Temple
Walk a short distance south from Linggong Temple and you will see a screen wall guide map with "Your Location" on it. The Temple of the God of Wealth, built in 1821 during the first year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty, enshrines Bigan, Fan Li, and Guan Yu. During the Cultural Revolution, the temple served as a warehouse for the production brigade, preserving its original appearance. The collection of antiques is extremely rare and has now been restored. The Yaowang Temple, Guandi Temple, and Bodhisattva Pavilion are all built on a high platform, commonly known as the "Two Steps, Three Temples." The Yaowang Temple is three bays wide and two bays deep. It was built in the Ming Dynasty and is a place for praying for good health. The Guandi Temple and Yaowang Temple are built side by side, sharing a similar layout and symbolic meaning. The Guanyin Temple is located on a flight of steps. On the other side of the steps is the Dragon King Temple, dedicated to praying for favorable weather and good harvests. Inside the temple is a theater, still remnants of its time. Outside, a glazed screen wall stands. From left to right: the glazed screen wall (back), the Guandi Temple mountain gate theater, and the Yaowang Temple mountain gate.
The gate of Yaowang Temple
The archway inside the gate
Directly opposite is the Guandi Temple, and on the right is the Yaowang Temple.
Guanyin Bodhisattva Temple. (Inside the temple, you can look up and see the ancient city wall. It's covered with yellow moss, a rare sight. The ancient city wall, weathered by years of rain and wind, often leaves black marks, and the yellow moss accentuates its ancient charm. A closer look reveals numerous bullet holes, evidence of the Japanese invaders' bullets.)
Dragon King Temple
Dragon King Temple
Introduction on the east wall inside the mountain gate of Guandi Temple
The "glazed screen wall" in front of the mountain gate theater of Guandi Temple. Between the two dragons on the screen wall is a spider spirit. Whether there is water in its belly button is used to predict the weather. Dry, no rain; small water droplets, cloudy; large water droplets, rain. Every year on the birthday of Yang Linggong, the ancient town holds a temple fair. Residents watch a play in the ancient theater.
On the south side of the mountain gate of Yaowang Temple is the north city gate tower of Gubeikou Town.
The plaque outside the North City Gate reads "Ancient Road and Great Pass"
North City Gate Tower
Ancient cannons on the tower
Overlooking the "Three Temples in Two Steps" from the North City Tower
Overlooking the Chaohe Wohushan Great Wall Watchtower in Gubeikou Town (the highest peak in the distance) from the North City Tower
Continue westward along the Northern Qi Great Wall ruins (this section of the Great Wall is a wild section, with a simple dirt and stone path on top, so be careful when walking). After about twenty minutes, you'll reach the first watchtower of the Northern Qi Great Wall ruins (which has undergone emergency repairs), allowing you to experience the feeling of climbing a wild Great Wall. The photo below shows a distant view from the first and second watchtowers.
Go out of the north city gate and walk south for a short distance to the Ancient Imperial Road.
The scenic river beside the Ancient Imperial Road
The Zhao Family Courtyard, a 200-year-old residential complex beside the Ancient Imperial Road, exemplifies the Beijing Siheyuan architectural style.
Introduction to the Zhao Family Courtyard
Upon entering the gate, you'll be greeted by the auspicious Hongxi Screen Wall
The north house in the courtyard
The south house and the west wing have small doors leading to the vegetable garden outside. There are several guest rooms in the backyard.
There are several guest rooms in the backyard.
The ancient village history and culture museum next to the ancient imperial road.
Exhibits inside the History and Culture Museum
A rehearsal for a temple fair performance is underway at the Guzhen Cultural Courtyard (also known as the Gege Mansion). This is the lead woman.
Interested tourists couldn’t help but put on performance props and performed a show called “Running Donkey” with the tour guide, the aunt.
The mountain gate of Erlang Temple
In the center of the temple, Guan Gong, the Martial Sage, is enshrined; the left hall enshrines Erlang Shenjun; and the right hall enshrines Guanyin Bodhisattva.
The seated statue of Guan Gong enshrined in the temple
The iron chain bridge over the scenic river to the south of Erlang Temple. On the mountain behind the temple are the remains of the Great Wall and the remaining enemy tower. Next to the iron chain bridge is the nearly flattened water gate of the Great Wall, with the words "Guguan" (Ancient Pass) inscribed on a plaque. It takes about an hour to walk from Erlang Temple to Panlongshan Great Wall. After leaving Erlang Temple, I noticed a sign nearby telling me the town was developing too fast. I quickly downloaded the software and followed the instructions, but it didn't work. Even the locals I asked didn't know. Ugh! I've been scammed. A little over 20 minutes outside the ancient town, I arrived at the Seven Warriors Monument. Pay homage to the martyrs' ruins and bow three times to them.
Read a brief introduction to the martyrs' deeds
After walking for about an hour through Erzhai, you will arrive at the entrance of the Panlong Mountain Great Wall Scenic Area. The Panlongshan Great Wall stretches 5 kilometers, winding through steep mountains and deep ravines. From afar, it resembles a giant dragon coiling along the mountainside. Because this section of the Great Wall hasn't undergone much restoration, it appears ancient and desolate, yet it retains its intact historical features. Among its highlights are the General's Tower and the 24-Eye Tower. The General's Tower, the commanding height of the Panlongshan Great Wall, boasts 22 doorways, preserved in their original form and imposing. It served as the headquarters and was a site of fierce battle between the enemy and our forces during wars. The 24-Eye Tower, a watchtower on the eastern side of the Panlongshan Great Wall, serves as a distant counterpart to the General's Tower. The 24-Eye Tower has three stories, with three arrow windows on each of the first and second floors, and battlements surrounding the top floor. Its 24 lookout points are rare and precious in the history of Great Wall architecture. Standing on this ancient section of the Great Wall and gazing into the distance, the scenery is magnificent and splendid, giving people a sense of the vicissitudes of history.
Signage for the enemy tower closest to the entrance to the Panlongshan Great Wall Scenic Area. It's recommended to first visit the General Tower, a 20-minute climb, then walk east to the Haowang Tower and then to the Twenty-Four Eyes Tower. The entire journey takes about three hours.
The wooden plank path leading up the mountain leads all the way to the trailhead, making it a very comfortable hike. A group of sculptures beside the wooden plank road depict the construction process of the Great Wall, including removing the blanks, firing the bricks, inspecting the finished products after they leave the kiln, carrying the bricks to the construction site, and chiseling and transporting the stone slabs.
The road up the mountain
Panlongshan Great Wall Watchtower - Haowang Tower
The enemy tower has been reinforced for emergency purposes
The situation inside the enemy tower
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