Luocheng Ancient Town ~ "Boat" on the top of the mountain, China's Noah's Ark, a paradise for drinking tea and playing cards, and a convergence of multi-ethnic cultures

  • Number of days: 1 day
  • Time: January
  • Average cost: 120 yuan
  • With whom: a person
  • Updated: 2021.03.05

Yesterday I went to the starting point of the Yangtze River ~ Yibin, and today's plan is to see the ancient town of Luocheng in Qianwei on the way back to Chengdu.

In the morning, take a train from Yibin to Qianwei Station, and the ticket is 39 yuan. Arriving at Qianwei Station, there is a bus to Luocheng Ancient Town at the exit, and the fare is 6 yuan.

Qianwei Station Square is very large, now there are almost no people, empty, there is grass on the ground of the square, as if it is rarely trampled, such an environment makes people feel very free and relaxed, there is no sense of tension and oppression that gives people the cold and smooth ground of the big city station, this situation makes me feel that there is no need to worry about where to go, there is nothing to worry about slowly, so I slowly walked up to the bus in Luocheng, slowly bought tickets, and slowly said to the conductor: Go~Luo~city~~

The vehicle circled and undulated on the mountain road, the road was very narrow, and it looked like it was whizzing past the door of some villages. There are passengers getting on and off the bus in the middle, and many of the drivers, conductors and passengers know each other, chatting about homely things, and it can be seen that this is a society of acquaintances. I have begun to wander through other people's lives.

Get off the bus and go to the ancient town, the ancient town is open, and the outside living area is connected, the main street Liangdang Street is commonly known as "boat-shaped street", this street is narrow at both ends and the widest in the middle, shaped like a boat, in fact, at that time (1628 in the first year of Ming Chongzhen) it was also built to pray for rain, pinning people's hope that the rain can make the boat of dry land float, so it is also called "China's Noah's Ark" by Westerners. There are seven ethnic groups living here: Han, Hui, Yi, Manchu, Tibetan, Li and Miao.

As for when this memory was left and whether it was reliable, I am not sure myself, but the feeling of déjà vu and the feeling of belonging here is real. I have never been to Taiwan or Japan, but I heard that some of the people who have been to those places said: When I got there, I knew what the "four hundred and eighty temples of the Southern Dynasty, how many towers in the misty rain" looked like in our ancient poems, and I knew what the folk customs were simple, which ones were gentle, humble and courteous, maybe these have disappeared around me now, but the beauty that originally belonged to us has long penetrated into the genes carried by our ancestors for generations, so once you enter this beautiful scene, The surrounding environment coincides with the memories latent in one's own genes, and the meaning of relaxation, comfort, and wanting to stay here does not feel unfamiliar appears, so the matter of déjà vu can be explained.

When

you relax, you don't have to worry, find a teahouse and drink a cup of tea before you start shopping on Pavilion Street (Boat Street), and there are still a few small oranges you bought yesterday. A cup of flower tea with such a pot of boiling water costs 5 yuan.

I looked at the old couple for a while, one is because they are really old, estimated to be almost 100 years old, which is not uncommon in Luocheng, this is a place of longevity; Second, the old man has been smoking the kind of choking dry cigarette in Sichuan, and his wife did not stop him on the grounds that smoking affects his lifespan. Third, I didn't see any communication between the two people, but I felt that the two people had been communicating non-stop.

In front of me are long-lived and healthy old people, and behind are several children playing a game similar to the "fan ingot" in the past. There is indeed an illusion of going back to the past.

Those who sell vegetables and fruits and meat sellers use flat poles to carry two bamboo baskets or large baskets made of bamboo, and the meat and vegetables are placed on it, and the bearers stand along the street by the wall, and the flat pole leans against the wall. The place is basically fixed every day, so there is no need to sell, and the residents in the ancient city will find it themselves.

The white walls and gray tiles and blue sky, and the afternoon sun is warm, which is good

Afternoon Chuanzhu Temple.

The original site of the Chuanzhu Temple was the location where the iron chains were blocked, and there were several cornerstones that supported the wooden pillars at that time. It's good, in fact, we see this place, it's much better to look at the ruins of the broken wall than to look at a newly built fake antique, the most hateful thing is not the destruction, but the covering.

The

couplet on the stone archway was written by an officer of a famous party of a country,

and the upper couplet is: Luo Zhongzhi to become a city and lean on the iron peak to rest on the show Spanning 800 miles of Wuyun and driving through the five seas

The

lower couplet is: Ling Gu and Modern and Working Room Nayou Meng Ji Gao Cavity Through 4,000 Years of Shao Le Compatriots and Wanfang

This

officer is also both civil and military, both civil and military are very important, and it is terrible to have a gun in his hand without humanistic feelings in his chest.

On

the other side of the stone archway is this theater, which is the widest part of the ship-shaped street, located on the roughly median line of a street

This Lingguan Temple has Taoist elements, Islamic elements, and Buddhist elements. I have heard that there are many cases in Taiwan and Palestine.

The

street artist who makes sugar paintings, the one who steals the spotlight is the smiling man in the back, smiling so simply and happily, while the child next to him is more serious. The child's eyes seemed to have a little hand stretched out.

The boat-shaped street of the ancient town is long from east to west and short from north to south, and the long rows of old tile houses with wooden structures on both sides of the street, and the eaves on the side of the street are unusually wide, forming a rare corridor called "cool hall", and its support point is more than 100 old logs standing on hexagonal long stone pillars, covering rain and snow in winter and scorching sun in summer, known as the "sunny and rainy market". Luocheng Ancient Town was once a military stronghold, and both the Ming and Qing dynasties were the "military shops" of the garrison troops to control the barbarians (ethnic minorities in the southwest)

Walking into an alley, the aroma of wine lees came to the nose, it turned out that this was the ancient town winery, brewing pure sorghum wine in the old cellar, this is to see a middle-aged man, holding a 5L mineral water bucket silently walked into the winery, the saleswoman put a funnel and began to sift the wine in, this is also a kind of life, you have to eat less, you have to know more.

At both ends of this street, one end is a mosque, one is a spiritual official temple, and the middle theater stone workshop is a historical witness to the time when the Han and Hui people accounted for half of each other's non-aggression.

I saw a door hanging "Climb the building to overlook the whole view of the ancient city, 10 yuan", I tried to call, after a long time, a 60-year-old uncle, very enthusiastic because I entered his house, excitedly introduced his own family history and the history of the ancient city, he was talking endlessly, I wanted to refuse and welcome, he was completely putting on the posture of a storyteller, I wanted to hand him a storyteller at that time, I guess he said very well, but I understood two-thirds, he said that his father was a rightist, (implying that he is a scholarly family), he has suffered a lot from snacks, but he inherited the buildings of this ancient town, and it is very comfortable to rent them out.

I also talked about the archway in the middle of the street, at that time the largest on this street was the Han and Hui, the Hui people came here because of some persecution outside, some rich people got the news of the impending disaster and brought gold and silver to live here, because they had money, they bought houses and lands to do business, and after getting bigger and bigger, they had conflicts with the local mainstream Han people, at that time, there was a person who was mixing the rivers and lakes outside, with a high prestige, and the two groups of people asked him to preside over justice, and the people of the rivers and lakes set up this stone workshop, while the Han people, On the one hand, they did not invade each other, and a martial fight was quelled at that time. Probably like this, maybe not.

This uncle calls himself "Guanjing Ge Weng"

The

interior of Guan Ge Weng's house, the house is a small building, very large, and has many rooms

My patience paid off, and the observation pavilion man got a pair of ladders, put them on the roof, and asked me to go up the ladder to take pictures, saying that the effect was better, and yes, It's good to take a higher photo.Standing on the ladder and taking pictures, listening to his non-stop shouting in his ears, my fear of heights disappeared, and the voice of the observation pavilion had a desensitizing effect.

When I left, he stuffed oranges into my hand and insisted on giving me a printed overhead view of Luocheng Ancient Town, with the back signed: Luocheng Ancient Town Souvenir Jianjing Ge Weng January 2021

His last words made me a little moved in retrospect: "Come next time, if I'm still here, I'll treat you to eat in my store." ”

As an ancient city, if there is no poetry and music, how can it be embarrassed to call it an ancient city? The above three photos are "Luo Chengfu" engraved on the wall, which are written by today's people, which is good. After arriving in Chengdu, I saw that many buildings will be expressed in the form of fu, or written or engraved, so that people can understand the history and receive literary comfort, and not only Chengdu, but also several places in Sichuan have been to the tradition of poetry and fu have been preserved, compared with the urban construction of many other areas is like a cultural desert, it doesn't matter, cultural traditions and such things can always be preserved...

The slate tower can be extinguished, and the reputation of good and evil will leave traces forever;

The stories of the market have been passed down for thousands of years, and the articles and poems are eternal.

Luocheng Ancient Town snacks include mutton soup pot, halal dumplings, dry beef, rolling glutinous rice balls, kasi tofu, etc., because of the limited time and saving considerations, Just ate 3 "Kasi dried tofu" at a "Yuan Ji food stall", 3 yuan each.

The

stall owner cut a large mouthful in the middle of the prepared fried browned tofu cubes with scissors, stuffed with scalded radish shreds dipped in chili powder, and then put them in sweet and sour and dipping water to stick them, control the excess dipping water, and finally sprinkle with crushed peanuts, you can eat it, one bite, sweet and sour crispy, the fresh air bag of radish is sandwiched in the middle of the rapeseed oil aroma of fried tofu cubes, plus the fullness given by crushed peanuts, the sweet and sour taste, accompanied by the crunch and pleasant sound when chewing, Kasi tofu has also become an enduring Qianwei famous snack, from the ancient town to the outside world, even if you are used to eating north and south cuisine, Western food and Japanese food, but as long as you think of the sweet and sour taste of Kasi tofu, a wisp of nostalgia will always faintly emerge. . . (Does this passage look like Qianwei on the tip of the tongue?) )

Take the train back to Chengdu, the ticket is 68 yuan. The square in front of Qianwei Station was very large, there was no one, I turned on the music on my mobile phone, turned out Beethoven's Fifth Symphony, turned it on to the maximum volume, listened to it in full for the first time, and listened to part of Beethoven's Ninth.

It's time to get on the bus. There were only 5 or 6 passengers entering the station, and there were 7 or 8 staff such as security checks, ticket sales, and doormen

A friend praised my serious attitude in writing a travelogue, yes, I wanted to record the scenery and people I saw as carefully as possible, and express my feelings at that time, so that I could return to that moment when I looked through it later, proving that I had some moments of spiritual self-shine in my busy life.


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