Live Your Best Lives
Deep camaraderie, connected by caring hearts! This was the profound feeling of a recent trip, carefully planned and organized by Beijing Target Operations members Zhao Xiangjie and Zhang Qiuyue, along with conveners Geng Heping and Zou Xiaofei, for the "Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon" expedition. Comrades from eight regiments of the Heilongjiang Production and Construction Corps of the former Shenyang Military Region of the Chinese People's Liberation Army participated in.
Departure from the Assembly Point
Early in the morning of October 8, 2021, 40 group members from across Beijing gathered at the Anhui Building, the departure assembly point, awaiting departure. Who would have thought that the bus we were waiting for would be late and would not arrive until 08:35. Faced with the long wait in the cold weather, everyone was a little unhappy.
Geng Heping greets everyone
However, once the car started, the heavy traffic and severe traffic congestion along the route, coupled with the humorous opening remarks and sincere apologies from organizers Geng Heping and Zhao Xiangjie, quickly transformed everyone's unhappiness into laughter of understanding... And so, the curtains were finally raised on the next exciting and highly anticipated journey...
Entering the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda
At 2:30 PM, the group strolled to the famous Yingxian Wooden Pagoda Scenic Area. In front of the scenic area's archway, the group took their first group photo of the trip. Afterward, the group entered the scenic area, led by a local guide, whose lively explanations filled the air. Located within the Fogong Temple northwest of Ying County, Shuozhou City, Shanxi Province, the Sakyamuni Pagoda, commonly known as the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, is also known as the Fogong Temple Sakyamuni Pagoda. Built in the second year of the Qingning reign of the Liao Dynasty (the third year of the Zhihe reign of the Song Dynasty, 1056 AD) and completed in the sixth year of the Mingchang reign of the Jin Dynasty (the first year of the Qingyuan reign of the Southern Song Dynasty, 1195 AD), it is the tallest, oldest, and only existing wooden pagoda in China. Along with the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy and the Eiffel Tower in Paris, it is considered one of the "Three Great Towers of the World." In 2016, the Sakyamuni Pagoda was recognized by the Guinness World Records as the world's tallest wooden pagoda. Yingxian Wooden Pagoda Scenic Area The world's oldest wooden Buddhist pagoda, the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda stands 67.31 meters tall, with a base diameter of 30.27 meters. Its octagonal shape is composed of 3,000 cubic meters (over 2,600 tons) of red pine wood. The pagoda is constructed entirely of wood, without nails or rivets.
Photo of the wooden pagoda cultural relic stele (Photo by Geng Heping)
According to research, over the past thousand years, the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda has not only been subjected to erosion by day and night, the changes of the seasons, wind, frost, rain and snow, but has also suffered from multiple strong earthquakes, including more than a dozen with a magnitude of five or above.
Backyard of the Scenic Area
Historical records indicate that in April of the ninth year of the Yuan Dynasty's Dade reign, a powerful 6.5-magnitude earthquake struck Datong Road, resembling thunder and affecting the wooden pagoda. During the reign of Emperor Shun of the Yuan Dynasty, a devastating earthquake struck Yingzhou for seven days, causing the buildings surrounding the pagoda to collapse, but the wooden pagoda remained standing. A wooden pagoda surrounded by greenery In recent years, several major earthquakes in the Xingtai, Tangshan, Datong, and Yanggao areas have affected Yingxian County. The wooden pagoda swayed violently, causing the wind chimes to ring for over a minute, yet the pagoda remained standing. Relentless lightning strikes and years of fierce winds from the Great Wall have all wreaked havoc on the pagoda. War, chaos, and the smoke of battle have also damaged it.
Capturing the joyful moment
During the warlord conflict of 1926, the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda was struck by over 200 bullets, with bullet marks still visible today. Yet, the pagoda remained resilient and stands proudly today, reaching towards the sky. A corner of the wooden pagoda Scholars throughout history and beyond in Ying County have extensively researched the historical origins of the place's name. Ming Dynasty scholar Tian Hui explained that the name stemmed from the interaction between the two mountains of Yanmen and Longshou, a clear fabrication. Buddhist scriptures state that the Buddha's relics "respond to the Way of Heaven above and to the sentient beings below, ultimately responding to the earth." "Way of Heaven" and "sentient beings" refer to the gods in heaven and sentient beings on earth. The place where the Buddha's remains and tooth were revealed is the "responding earth."
Photo taken at the Wooden Pagoda Scenic Area (Photo by Yang Jianmin)
This is the origin of Ying County's ancient name, "Yingzhou." The reappearance of a pair of Buddha's teeth in Ying County, the "place of the Buddha," demonstrates a remarkable affinity. Ying County is undoubtedly the world's Ying County, and the Sakya Pagoda is undoubtedly the only place where the Buddha appeared in the world.
Wooden Pagoda under the Blue Sky (Photography: Feng Ganyong)
Wandering in the Wooden Pagoda Scenic Area and gazing up at the towering wooden pagoda under the blue sky and white clouds is a magnificent sight. One cannot help but marvel at the advanced technology used by the ancients in solving architectural problems, which even modern people find incredible and magical. Looking up at the wooden pagoda plaque A close-up look at the structure further demonstrates the profoundness of ancient Chinese architectural art. For example, the outer eaves of the pagoda's ground-floor corridors are supported by 24 wooden pillars. Each pillar bears a load of 120 tons when stationary, yet the stone bases beneath them lack any mortars. Instead, the cross-sections of the wooden pillars rest directly on the stone bases, a truly breathtaking sight. It's said that a curious individual once held a thin rope between the stone bases and the wooden pillars. This led to the folk legend that the 24 wooden pillars rotated in and out of alignment.
A corner of the wooden pagoda
Entering the pagoda, one is greeted by the 11-meter-tall statue of Sakyamuni Buddha on the first floor. The majestic presence is even more apparent from within. Surrounding it are murals depicting Vajra, heavenly kings, disciples, and donors. The meticulous and vivid brushwork embodies the unique Liao Dynasty painting style.
Wooden Tower Bell Tower
The tower is equipped with wooden staircases, allowing visitors to ascend to each floor, each offering a different view. However, to protect the cultural relics, ascending the steps to overlook the scenery outside the tower is no longer possible. However, the scenery inside the tower can still be savored and admired.
Photo in front of the wooden pagoda
The guide's detailed explanation of the inaccessible floors made up for the regret of not being able to climb the pagoda. The second floor, illuminated by light from all directions, was suddenly open, revealing a main Buddha, two Bodhisattvas, and two attendants, all arranged in a vivid and lively manner. The third, fourth, and fifth floors also feature statues of Buddha and Bodhisattvas, each with its own distinct design and construction. The inscription on the silver lintel on the third floor is particularly captivating: "To gaze a thousand miles, one must try climbing to the sixth floor." A wooden couplet on the east side of the third floor's outer trough reads: "Looking down, the rolling waves of the Sanggan River wind like a belt; in the distance, the majestic peaks of Mount Heng stand like a screen." These inscriptions capture the breathtaking scenery of the surrounding mountains, rivers, and forests. Most notably, the Buddha statues enshrined within this pagoda are exceptionally large, crafted with exceptional artistry. Among the countless pagodas in China, these towers are truly exceptional in terms of architectural technique, interior decoration, and statue-making. 
Temple within the Wooden Pagoda Scenic Area
Our group was incredibly lucky to visit the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda in Shanxi and catch a performance of the local opera "Shuahai'er" as part of the "2021 Shanxi Province Benefit Performances for Endangered Opera Genres." Shuahai'er, also known as Kekeqiang, is a beloved traditional opera genre in Datong, Shanxi. Shuahaier, a local opera, is named after a tune. Originating in the middle reaches of the Sanggan River, Shuahaier was once popular in Datong, Shuozhou, Shenchi and Wuzhai in northwestern Shanxi, and Hohhot and Baotou in Inner Mongolia, where it was deeply loved by audiences. Shuahaier troupes and societies existed during the Jiaqing and Daoguang reigns of the Qing Dynasty, and its formation predates this period. A unique flower in China's vast garden of opera, Shuahaier is hailed by experts as a "living fossil in the history of drama." Arrival at Shuozhou Ancient City Our trip to the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon concluded successfully with a visit to the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda. Continuing our journey, we arrived at our second Shanxi attraction, Chongfu Temple in Shuozhou, at 4:40 PM. Here, we were warmly welcomed by Mr. Zhang Qingjun, Secretary-General of the Shuozhou Tourism Association of Shanxi Province, who personally provided a tour guide for us. Chongfu Temple Entering the solemn and majestic Chongfu Temple courtyard, Zhang Qingjun explained to the group that Chongfu Temple, located on the east side of the ancient city of Shuozhou, Shanxi Province, is a nationally protected cultural relic site. Chongfu Temple boasts a mountain gate, the Hall of Heavenly Kings, a bell tower, a drum tower, a Thousand Buddha Pavilion, a Wenshu Hall, a Ksitigarbha Hall, a Sanbao Hall, a Amitabha Hall, and a Guanyin Pavilion. The temple boasts well-preserved Jin Dynasty architecture, statues, and murals, making it a temple of great historical value. Chongfu Temple Courtyard This temple was founded in 665 AD, the second year of the Tang Dynasty's Linde reign. Its main hall, the Mituo Hall, was completed in 1143 AD, the third year of the Jin Dynasty's Huangtong reign. This makes it over 850 years old. Its diverse collection of Jin Dynasty artifacts, including architecture, statues, murals, glazed tiles, door and window partitions, eaves plaques, and inscribed inscriptions, has survived over 800 years of history, remaining intact and undamaged. This is a rare and precious treasure.
Stone lion statues within the temple
The Amitabha Hall, the main hall and the largest within the temple, is tall and spacious. Its roof is adorned with green glazed tiles, and the front eaves and window lattices are elegant and exquisite. It is one of the only well-preserved examples of Jin Dynasty art in China. On the altar are three seated statues of the "Three Holy Ones of the West." Flanking the main statue are four attendant bodhisattvas and two vajra figures. These statues are all original Jin Dynasty creations, demonstrating a simple and exquisite sculpting style.
Mituo Hall of Chongfu Temple
The Mituo Hall sits atop a 2.4-meter-high pedestal, with a spacious platform in front, adding to its grandeur and magnificence. Under the eaves of the main hall hangs a vertical plaque inscribed "Mituo Hall," dating from the 24th year of the Jin Dynasty's Dading reign (1184). The hall spans seven bays, totaling 40.96 meters, and is 22.31 meters deep, with four bays and eight rafters. It has a single-eaved hip roof and stands approximately 21 meters tall.
Photo in front of the Amitabha Hall
The five central bays in front of the hall are equipped with partition doors. The rear eaves main bay and the two side bays each have two large wooden doors, allowing visitors to enter the hall. To expand the interior space, the central pillars in the five bays were removed, leaving only two of the four golden pillars in the front bay and moving them to the center of the secondary bays, increasing the space for the altar and the worship area. This practice of reducing and relocating pillars was a bold innovation in Chinese architectural history.
Visiting the Amitabha Hall
Entering the Amitabha Hall, one can see statues arranged around a large altar spanning four bays. The principal statue, seated in lotus position, is Amitabha Buddha in the center, Guanyin Bodhisattva to the left, and Mahasthamaprapta Bodhisattva to the right—known in Buddhism as the "Three Holy Ones of the West." Four attendant bodhisattvas flank the principal statue, their bodies slightly bent. Two vajra statues stand majestically at the corners of the altar, their eyes wide open, as if fulfilling their respective guardian duties. These painted sculptures date back to the time the hall was built. Despite renovations during the Ming Dynasty, their forms, bodies, clothing, and facial features remain largely unchanged, making them truly rare examples of Jin Dynasty sculpture in my country. A corner of the Bell and Drum Tower In addition to the magnificent halls and pavilions mentioned above, Chongfu Temple also preserves wooden pavilion-shaped Buddhist shrines, stone statues from the Tang, Liao, and Song dynasties, and numerous unearthed cultural relics. The Liao Dynasty stone statues and the Northern Wei Dynasty stone pagoda finials are particularly noteworthy.
Night view of the Haiyuan Hotel
After visiting Chongfu Temple, the first day of the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon trip concluded successfully. That evening, Zhang Qingjun, representing the Shuozhou tourism industry, warmly hosted the entire group at Northwest Youmian Village. Everyone enjoyed an authentic Northwest-style meal before staying at the Shuozhou Haiyuan Hotel.
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