The Soul Code of Shenglian Mountain: The Blend of History and Nature

Number of days: 1 day
Time: April
With whom: and friends

Shenglian Mountain is nestled in the mountains of northern Fangshan District, Beijing. As a key component of the Fangshan Global Geopark, it combines danger, mystery, unique beauty, and a unique blend of natural scenery, classical architecture, and geological relics, creating a unique and alluring integrated cultural tourism resort.

As you enter the park, you can see that the flood in July 2023 destroyed the old gate. Now, a new gate, built in the style of the double-layered hip roof of the Meridian Gate of the Imperial Palace, stands tall. The 25-meter-high and 9-meter-wide gate is majestic, with "Shengmi Stone Hall" engraved in the middle of the lintel, which not only carries the weight of history but also shows the grandeur of the reconstruction.

Take a sightseeing bus and transfer to a cable car. As the cabin slowly climbs, you'll be treated to a lush, verdant landscape of mountains and forests: waves of green of varying shades surge among the peaks, and the magnificent geological relics complement the thriving vegetation. Looking at the earth from afar at this moment, the magnificence and grandeur of the motherland's mountains and rivers come to mind, as if every wrinkle is telling the sacred soul of the interweaving of nature and humanity.

The soul of Shenglian Mountain lies hidden among the vegetation, rocks, and shrouded in shimmering cultural relics. The "Three Courtyards" within the Beimiao complex bear witness to the intertwining of historical figures with the spiritual charm of the landscape. The remains of Wu Peifu, Cao Kun, and Yang Xiaolou—not only architectural remains but also connect the inextricable bond between prominent figures in politics and business, renowned opera performers, and Taoist culture during the early Republic of China.

Yang Xiaolou and the Yang Family Courtyard: A renowned figure in modern Peking Opera, Yang Xiaolou was renowned for his dynamic monkey performances and commanding Guan Gong opera. He frequently performed for Empress Dowager Cixi in the late Qing Dynasty, earning him the status of a Peking Opera legend. In his later years, illness forced him to retire from acting. This devout Taoist practitioner journeyed to Shenglian Mountain, seeking healing amidst the natural beauty. In 1925, he built the Yang Family Courtyard and a small stage there. Initially a two-story building, he intended it to be a place for quiet contemplation and gatherings with friends, but a fire destroyed the structure, transforming it into its current form. While the gongs and drums of the stage are no longer visible, the vibrant rhythms of the Monkey King's movements still resonate through the green tiles and white walls, reflecting an artist's search for a spiritual home in the latter half of his life.

Cao Kun and his residence: Compared to Yang Xiaolou's artistic legend, Cao Kun's villa bears witness to the turbulent world of modern politics. He entered the political arena in 1923 amidst the controversy surrounding his "bribery to elect the president," only to be swiftly ousted the following year by Feng Yuxiang's coup. During his time in office, he sought refuge from the hustle and bustle of the capital during the summer months here. Completed in 1925, the Cao residence, though a "back garden" during his brief reign, also underscores the "paradise" status of Shenglian Mountain among the upper classes of Republican society—even amidst the political turmoil, some sought refuge in the mountains and rivers. Today, the villa stands silently, and the patterns on the bricks and stones seem to be saying: Compared with the short-lived political arena, the tranquility of this landscape can better withstand the test of time.