Live Your Best Lives
Shangguan flowers, Xiaguan winds, Xiaguan winds blow Shangguan flowers;
Cangshan snow, Erhai moon, Erhai moon shines on Cangshan snow.
After the famous writer Cao Jinghua traveled through Dali, he was full of emotion about the four scenery of Dali's wind, flowers, snow, and moon, and left this poem. I have been to many places in Yunnan, my favorite is Dali, just the "Erhai Lake" like flawless jade won, let you linger, the first place in Dali should be the double corridor, like the spring flowers blooming there facing the sea, and now more friends come to Dali to like to travel around Erhai Lake, from beautiful scenery to humanities to food, you want here, but the charm of Dali is definitely not only this, now is the most beautiful time in Dali, you must go to these places, let's go!
[Travel Guide]
1. Itinerary
D1: Chengdu - Dali (by airport bus) - Dali Ancient City Stay: Ark Muzhai (Dali Ancient City)
D2: Dali University - Hongsheng Road - Xingsheng Bridge - Haidong Highway - Xiaoputuo Residence: Ark Muzhai (Dali Ancient City)
D3: Longkan Ancient Crossing - Xizhou Ancient Town - Haishe Park Stay: Ark Muzhai (Dali Ancient City)
D4: Fengyangyi - Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple Stay: Ark Muzhai (Dali Ancient City)
D5: Dali-Chengdu
2. Transportation
1) Airplane: Air tickets from Chengdu to Dali have always been quite cheap, and off-season travel is super affordable,
2) Train: Chengdu has a direct high-speed rail to Dali, the whole journey is 8 hours, which is still quite hard, and the second-class seats are more than 600, which is generally more expensive than air tickets.
3) Dali's public transportation is relatively complete, the airport has airport buses directly to the city and Dali Ancient City, and Dali Ancient City Scenic Area through trains also have buses around Erhai Lake.
4) Car rental: Car rental is the best way to visit Dali, there are a lot of car rentals in the ancient city of Dali, and they are all colorful and super exaggerated sports cars, hahaha, the photo is more beautiful, there is also a Shen/Zhou pick-up point, 3-5 people rent a car is still convenient and affordable, if there are few people, you can also choose to rent a battery car or bicycle.
3 The best season
Yunnan has a pleasant climate and is a province suitable for visiting all year round, but the first of the four seasons is winter, because it is not cold here in winter, most of the time is sunny, the color of Erhai Lake is the most beautiful, and flocks of red-billed gulls, you can see winter cherry blossoms in December, and you can enjoy spring cherry blossoms in March, so I think the best time is December and March-April.
4. Accommodation
Many friends like to choose to live by Erhai Lake, you can enjoy the sea view in the room, but the travel is relatively inconvenient, I chose to live in the ancient city of Dali this time, the transportation and food are very convenient.
The
cherry blossoms in Dali are very famous, and there are both winter cherry blossoms and spring cherry blossoms, the best place to see winter cherry blossoms is in Wuliang Mountain Cherry Blossom Valley, but Wuliang Mountain is too far away, and it takes almost 8-9 hours to drive back and forth, so I gave up.
The cherry blossoms of Dali University have always been famous, from December to April, from winter cherry blossoms to spring cherry blossoms are very beautiful, but due to the epidemic, it has been closed management, I thought I was going to be disappointed, but I didn't expect to see the super beautiful cherry blossoms when I checked in the most beautiful road in the legend
?
Hongsheng Road, this road is called the most beautiful highway in Dali by netizens, very close to the ancient city of Dali, only 2 kilometers
only know that one end of this road leads to Erhai Lake, only to find that the other end of it is Dali University, you can see the cherry blossoms in the school through the wall
In addition, there are many cherry blossoms on both sides of Hongsheng Road, which are very beautiful
When taking photos on Hongsheng Road, you must pay attention to safety, and do not sit in the middle of the road to take pictures, safety first!
There is also a community called "Shanshuijian" on this road, where the spring cherry blossoms are also very famous, there is a stream in the community, and both sides of the creek are full of cherry blossoms.
[Xingsheng Bridge]
This is a place that I accidentally discovered on the way to Erhai Lake after watching the cherry blossoms, Xingsheng Bridge is located in Dali city, not far from Dali Railway Station, across the Xi'er River, flowing through this bridge, which is the channel of Erhai Lake flowing into the Lancang River.
There are many seagulls and black mallards on the side of the bridge, and the shape of the bridge is very European, and it looks like it is in Europe in a trance
on the bridge, by the river under the bridge, walk from the bridge to the stairs by the river, go a little further, sit on a chair by the river, with the bridge as the background, the photos are very beautiful?
[Little Putuo]
Cangshan and Erhai Sea, mountains and rivers depend on each other. Erhai Lake is not a sea, but the second largest freshwater lake in Yunnan, named because it resembles a human ear. Erhai Lake originates from Huabi Lake in Eryuan County, the source comes from the Gugu Mountain, the north has the Mizhi River to inject people, the southeast receives the water of the Boluo River, and the 18 streams of Xinacang Mountain, covering an area of about 251 square kilometers, and the circumference of Erhai Lake is about 120 kilometers. This section of the Haidong Highway is relatively beautiful, the road is closer to Erhai Lake, and you can enjoy the beauty of Erhai Lake along the road when driving.
The earliest famous Erhai Lake should be Yang Liping's hometown - Shuanglang Town, for a while, the Shuanglang is completely the perfect endorsement of small freshness, come to Dali to feel what it means to "face the sea, spring flowers bloom", but then it became a large construction site, and began a long road of repair, but now it has been repaired, but I always feel that the commercialization is more serious, so it is not included in the itinerary.
Another town on the shore of Erhai Lake - Diaose, is located on the east bank of Erhai Lake, surrounded by mountains on three sides and facing the sea on one side, which has been a town of fish and rice on the east bank of Erhai Lake since ancient times. It is one of the birthplaces of Bai local culture with a long history in the Erhai area.
Inaddition to being more original and quieter than the ancient city of Dali and Shuanglang, there are two biggest advantages, first, every winter, many seagulls flying from Siberia to Erhai Lake to spend the winter will be concentrated in Digging Town, but this year it feels less; Second, it is located on the east bank of Erhai Lake, which is the best place to enjoy the sunset by Erhai Lake.
The seagulls come here from November every year to the beginning of March of the following year, and the seagulls in Diaose Town are mainly concentrated near the town entrance and Xiaoputuo, they seem to be accustomed to the competition of tourists to feed, eat happily, and the sky is full of their cheerful calls, infecting the people around them, and the mood immediately becomes brighter.
Xiaoputuo was built in the Ming Dynasty and rebuilt in 1982 as a pavilion-style two-story building. The first layer is dedicated to the Bodhisattva Tathagata, and the second layer is dedicated to the Bodhisattva Guanyin, which is a very small island, not far from the shore, and you can spend 15 yuan to take a boat to the island, but it is not necessary, it is more beautiful from a distance.
Thebest way to feel Erhai Lake is also to rent a battery car and walk along the Huanhai Highway, feed the seagulls, take pictures, and wait until the sun sets to enjoy the most beautiful sunset on the beach, which is the real trip.
Under the afterglow of the sun, it seems that the whole world is left with this beautiful scenery and us, and I embrace everything beautiful with open arms, so that this moment will forever be imprinted in my heart.
Digging color, just entered everyone's sight, its beauty is still so primitive, so pure, I hope everyone can protect it well and leave a pure land for the seagulls who come from afar.
【Ark Fat Man's Kitchen】
What is the greatest pleasure of traveling, that is, there is beautiful scenery and food to accompany you, after enjoying the beautiful scenery of the day, after feasting your eyes, Now it's time to enjoy the food and feast on it.
is the most famous food in Yunnan, it must be my favorite various fungi, delicious and healthy, I'm waiting for you in Dali, Don't miss this bowl of mushroom soup at Ark Fat Man's Kitchen.
Ark Fat Man's Kitchen is next to the Erhai Gate of the ancient city of Dali, just one step away from the Ark Muzhai B&B where I live, Originally, it was for its No. 1 Dali Yunnan cuisine, but later I found out that they were a family, hahahaha, it was really a flood that washed away the Dragon King Temple.
Ark Fat Man has a two-story building, if possible, you must sit on the window seat on the second floor, you can see the quiet and beautiful ancient city outside, looking at the Cangshan Mountains in the distance, Enjoying the fragrant mushroom soup, I suddenly felt super happy at this moment.
The must-order of the Ark fat man must be the mushroom soup pot, the mushrooms can choose what they like, in my husband's words, as long as it is a mushroom, it is delicious, hahaha. I chose morels, bamboo shoots, and one I forgot what it was called, there are so many types of mushrooms, I only remember their deliciousness, but I forgot the name, hahaha.
After the bottom of the pot boils, the waiter will pour all the mushrooms into the pot, and then put an hourglass to time, and you can eat it after the hourglass is leaked, the most surprising thing for me is, Even saffron is added to the soup for free, and the chicken in the soup is also added for free, the boss is really real, no wonder the popularity and reputation are so high.
Come on, a pot of thick and fragrant mushroom soup is ready, take a bowl of soup, and enjoy Dali's amazing food.
[Ark Mu Zhai]
almost every year to come to Dali, I used to come to Dali always choose to live on the edge of Erhai Lake, I like the feeling of "facing the sea, spring flowers blooming", I have come more times, I feel that living by Erhai Lake, the traffic is really not very convenient, a lot of time is wasted on the road, most of the attractions in this itinerary are near the ancient city of Dali, and the pick-up point of our car rental is also on the side of the ancient city, so this time I chose to live in the ancient city.
After reading a lot of strategies and comments from netizens, I finally chose the Ark Muzhai Inn, take the airport bus from the airport to the ancient city and get off at the ancient city, and walk for a few minutes, and it is also very close to the car rental and pick-up point The inn also has its own free parking lot, and parking on the side of the ancient city is really quite expensive.
At a turn, I saw "Dali is waiting for you" and "this peace of mind is my home", under the blue sky and white clouds, the white three-story building really felt like home, and I didn't see the words Ark Mu Zhai, so I walked here as I wanted.
The housekeeper of the inn opened the door for us very enthusiastically and welcomed us into this temporary home, although the yard is not big, but it is full of green plants and succulents, full of vitality, There is a pool of water in the middle, fresh and elegant, which makes people unconsciously relax, just like the feeling after returning home from out of town.
The room space is quite large, the layout is very warm, there is a big bathtub in front of the window, I like this bathtub very much, I am still quite tired after playing for a day, It is very comfortable to be able to take a good bath in the bathtub and relax.
The inn has a total of three floors, the second floor and the roof each have a platform, which is very suitable for three or five friends to sit down and chat, and the roof can also overlook Cangshan. The view is wide and the scenery is beautiful.
The inn is in a corner of the ancient city, the alarm clock is quiet, you can walk a few minutes to the center of the ancient city, feel its liveliness, return to the room, it is very quiet, have a good sleep, Every morning, I went to Longkan Gudu to watch the sunrise (it turned out to be too comfortable, I got up late and missed the sunrise, hahaha)
[Longkan Gudu]
Dali comes once or twice a year, but it is the first time to come to Longkan Gudu, very close to the ancient city of Dali, I heard that the sunrise here is beautiful, but I didn't get up in the morning and missed it.
missed the sunrise and it is still beautiful!, there are recently super popular Internet red sequoia trees, as well as seagulls, although there are not many
< img src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106p120008g6scrpB70F_W_671_0_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" />
of Xingsheng Bridge 
You can overlook the double corridor and watch the cruise ship slowly pass by?, blue, red, yellow, white, at any time it is a blockbuster, sitting on the shore of Erhai Lake, looking at the beautiful scenery in front of you, this is the real thing" The years are quiet", right??
by direct navigation by car, and the car can be driven to the seaside, and it will take two or three minutes to walk
? The best time to take pictures: around 9 a.m., If you want to see the sunrise, you should be a little earlier, check the specific sunrise time on the Internet,
feed the seagulls must use regular gull food, try not to get too close to the seagulls
[Xizhou Ancient Town]
To Dali, many people like to go to Dali Ancient City, but I like to come to Xizhou, which is quieter, more rustic, and most importantly , there is my favorite Xizhou Baba.
Xizhou is located in the north of Dali, west of Cangshan, east of Erhai Lake, Xizhou is one of the birthplaces of Dali culture, a long time ago was the gathering place of the Bai people, Xizhou Ancient Town is one of the ancient cities left in the ancient city of Nanzhao, with a history of thousands of years, it is also the hometown of the movie "Five Golden Flowers", so this is the best place to feel the Bai style.
The core area of Xizhou Ancient Town is still called Sifang Street, but the scale is not large, but the whole ancient town is still quite large, so you can take a small yellow car driven by local residents, 10 yuan, the price is very cheap, of course, he will take you to some root carving shops, embroidery shops, tea shops and the like, in fact, it is nothing, after all, 10 yuan is too cheap, others also want to make money to support their families, you don't have to buy it, just let him pull you around the ancient town, and let him stop and take pictures when you see interesting places.
are two attractions in the ancient town that need to be charged, and it doesn't feel very interesting, so it's better to wander around casually and see these old buildings more flavorful.
The last stop of the little yellow car was Sifang Street, where the popularity was obviously much stronger, so I ran directly to a shop selling Xizhou Baba, although it was so big, But in order to try different flavors, I still bought one sweet and one salty, and the tasting result was that I still thought it was sweet and delicious.
Xizhou Baba can be said to be the biggest endorsement of Xizhou "people", you must eat one when you come here, although the appearance is average, but the production process is still very exquisite, the upper and lower layers of charcoal are used for the upper and lower layers of charcoal, the upper layer of charcoal fire is fierce fire, the lower layer of charcoal fire is slow, and then brush the lard on the finished dough and bake it into the pot to bake, and brush the grease several times during the baking process, and roast until it is crispy. Xizhou Baba is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, so you will see that in Xizhou Ancient Town, every store is written "Broken Crispy Baba", one bite, the crispy skin is full of floral fragrance, it is really delicious.
In addition to Xizhou Baba, Xizhou's pea jelly is also good, which is very suitable for the taste of our Sichuan people.
I ate the long-awaited Xizhou Baba, and I was finally satisfied, and then I went to the Haishe Park next to Xizhou, where the scenery is said to be very good.
Erhai
Lake, the mother lake of the Dali people, is indeed too beautiful to be like the world, the previous article gave you Amway to dig color, and now I will give you another unique beauty by Erhai Lake, that is, Haishe Park located next to Xizhou Ancient Town on the west side of Erhai Lake.
Haihe Park is located in Jinhe Village, Xizhou Town, on the west bank of Erhai Lake, because the Wanhua River of Cangshan flows into the sea here, coupled with the slow flow and squeezing of the Erhai Sea, forming this long sandbar facing water on three sides, which is called "Qingshazhou" in local historical records. The sandbar is 3 miles long, from wide to narrow, deep in Erhai Lake, shaped like a "tongue", so it is called "sea tongue".
digging color in Haidong, while Haihe Park is in Haixi, the scenery of the east and west is slightly different, the water of Haixi has given birth to a lot of trees and jungles, and Haidong has seagulls to add aura, And Haixi is more vivid because of the jungle of trees in these waters.
Haishe Park is a free park, the parking lot is a few hundred meters away from the park gate, in fact, it is only about 15 minutes to walk, but you can also try to enter by carriage, 20 yuan/car is not expensive, but it is recommended not to take a carriage in and out by carriage, because the scenery on both sides of this gravel road is not inferior to the park at all.
on the side of Erhai Lake, blue sky, white clouds, woods, wetlands, fishing boats...... Various elements are painted into a beautiful landscape scenery, which makes people linger.
Walking into the park gate, the first thing that catches your eye is two rows of lush bamboo forests, green and refreshing, and the sunlight shines through the gaps in the bamboo forest on the road and the bamboo forest opposite, Reflecting a little yellow light.
After passing through the bamboo forest, you can see this café near the sea, which is the only place in the park where you can sit down and take a nap, drink a cup of coffee, face the sea, and talk about life.
Haihe Tongue Park is named because it looks like a "tongue", so the park's instruction map is the simplest I have ever seen, because it is a tongue-shaped sandbar deep into Erhai Lake without any forks.
You can often see local people going out to sea to fish, and if you are lucky, you can also see ospreys catching fish, which is much better than spending money to go to an osprey show.
deeper I walked into the park, the stronger I felt that the wind was blowing, and the tree at the end was blown by the wind and felt like it was about to fall, and suddenly I wanted to know how much stronger the famous Shangguan wind was than here, But the children did not seem to be affected by the strong wind, looking for some small creatures in the sea on the beach.
As soon as you enter the entrance of the park, there is a sign written on the side of the road, which reads: Reptiles often appear here, indicating that this is a pristine park, There will be a lot of unknown small animals, of course, whether you can see them depends on your luck.
[Perfection Centennial Ancient Courtyard Restaurant]
It's dinner time, back to the ancient city of Dali to hang out, the lights are on, the night is dark, at this time the ancient city is completely different from the day, the day is gentle and quiet, and the night suddenly becomes lively.
The restaurant of the century-old courtyard has also been added to the itinerary before the trip, and many friends have recommended this restaurant to me, many celebrities have been here, and it happens to be very close to the Ark Mu house, just a five-minute walk away.
After entering the door, there is a big yard, very old, listen to the proprietress introduce that it is their ancestral tradition, generations of management, the courtyard layout is very simple, very local characteristics, The yard is full of plants, full of life, and it is really super comfortable to enjoy food in such a beautiful environment!
Herb lemon chicken, the signature dish of the store, a must-order NO1, the chicken is cut into small pieces, very flavorful, special herb flavor, plus dried chili, burnt aroma, The aftertaste is endless, which is very suitable for the taste of Sichuan people.
Carved plum beef slices, I like this dish very much, sweet and sour taste, there is a big plum meat inside, the beef is very tender.
signature passion fruit hot and sour fish, the same is a signature must-order, passion fruit soup base, delicious and appetizing, sour and spicy, the fish meat is super tender, fresh and tender.
fungus perfume poplar, water-based poplar, Yunnan specialty, you must try it when you come to Yunnan, it is a wild vegetable that grows in the lake, eat its stems, Smooth and crispy, blended with the aroma of mushrooms, very refreshing and fragrant.
I heard that their home-brewed wine is very good, but unfortunately we don't know how to drink, if we really want to try it, now I feel a little regretful, such a beautiful night, It should feel a little tipsy.
[Fengyangyi]
Dali, since ancient times, has been famous for the four scenes of "Xiaguan Wind, Shangguan Flower, Cangshan Snow, Erhai Moon", and these four absolutes are indeed worthy of their name, making people linger. And this trip to Dali, under the recommendation of local friends, I found another primitive and mysterious place, that is, "Fengyangyi" not far from the ancient city of Dali, a stone village hidden on the only remaining section of Dali's ancient tea horse road!
The ancient tea horse road originated from the "tea and horse market" in the Tang and Song dynasties, and was used to exchange items between Tibet and the mainland. The Fengyangyi Tea Horse Ancient Road is located in the middle of Dafeng Road between Xiaguan and Dali, which belongs to a section of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Ancient Road, which was built in the Han Dynasty and formed in the Nanzhao Dali Kingdom period, with a total length of 1900 meters, which is relatively well preserved, which is also the only ancient road in Dali.
The ancient tea horse road passes through the ruins of Taihe City, the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom, and enters Fengyangyi Village to the north, which was formerly known as "brick kiln", which was once mainly used to fire brick and tile pottery pots in history, and later took the meaning of "Danfeng Chaoyang", and was renamed "Fengyangyi". The most distinctive thing about the village is that the houses are made of irregular stones, which have the architectural elements of Dali's "stone walls do not fall".
Most of the houses here are Dali characteristic earthen warehouses, and the cornices are made of stones and pebbles; There are still more than 40 earthen houses that still retain their former appearance, and during the walk, the mottled old earthen walls, the thatched tile roofs, and the smooth and round stone floors, the vicissitudes of history have left a deep mark here, as if you can see the horses coming and going here, holding the hopes of different ethnic groups on both sides of the ancient road!
I wandered around and found a very interesting place, many houses have lush cacti on the walls, I asked the villagers passing by, I was told that planting cacti on the top of the wall had the effect of warding off evil spirits, and it turned out to be so.
a shell wall on a house on the side of the road that seems to have been abandoned, and the shell wall, as the name suggests, is a wall made of mixing shells and soil and ramming it, which is stronger and stronger. Moreover, the wall is strong and not easy to crack, and this kind of shell wall is often used by residents along the river or around the lake, and it is made of local materials and has unique characteristics.
While wandering around the village, I met three children and learned that they were going to Guanyin Well to fetch water, so I followed them with great interest. The Guanyin Well is under a very inconspicuous stone ladder on the side of the road, a rectangular wellhead that is not too big, and there is a Guanyin stone statue above the entrance, so it is called "Guanyin Well", the villagers drink water from here, the well water is not polluted, it can be drunk directly, and the little sister is thirsty and drinks half a spoonful of it as soon as she arrives at the well.
The little sister was very enthusiastic, and she had to take me to their house to play, and after chatting with them for a while, I found out that their parents had gone to work in the ancient city of Dali, leaving them and the old man at home, and the eldest boy was also responsible for cooking for the whole family, which was really sensible.
Fengyangyi used to be called "Straw Hat Street" by the locals because of the prosperity of the straw hat trade, and now there are still Bai grandmothers weaving straw hats in the small square in the village every day, the old lady saw me greeting me very warmly, and asked me where I came from, with a happy and satisfied smile on her face, and if you have time, you can sit next to the grandmother and chat with them about homely life, you should be able to hear a lot of interesting and moving stories.
Fengyangyi is not yet fully open, there are fewer homestays and they are all opened by locals, and few tourists will come here, want to feel the deep history of the ancient tea horse road, the ancient houses and simple customs of the Bai people, here should be a good choice, there is no disturbance from the outside world, it is easy to oversleep in the morning, wake up only to hear the sound of birds, touch the stone wall that has left a deep historical mark, drink a sip of the sweet well water of the Guanyin Well, and chat with the Bai grandmother, what a relaxed and comfortable different experience!
The
earliest impression of Dali should be from Jin Yong's "Eight Parts of the Heavenly Dragon", and I love the infatuated Duan Yu in it, so I came to the Three Pagodas this time to see the place where thirty emperors, including Duan Yu, became monks.
The three pagodas of Chongsheng Temple are located 1.5 kilometers northwest of the ancient city of Dali, facing Cangshan Yingle Peak in the west and Erhai Lake in the east, Chongsheng Temple was once the royal temple of the Duan family, but the former Chongsheng Temple is long gone, and now it has been rebuilt in recent years, and only the three ancient pagodas in front of the temple are monuments with a history of thousands of years.
The three pagodas of Chongsheng Temple were built during the period of King Nanzhao (824-859 AD), and the large tower "Qianxun Pagoda" was first built, which is 69.13 meters high, which is a square eaves brick tower with a total of 16 floors. Then the south and north small towers were built, both 42.19 meters high, which were a pair of octagonal brick towers, both of which were level 10. In addition to the Buddhist preaching that you can become a Buddha, there is another important reason for the construction of the three pagodas, which is that Dali was "flooded in the marsh country" in ancient times, and the pagoda has the effect of calming water.
The best way to visit the Three Pagodas is to enter the scenic spot, and now take a battery car to the top of the mountain, which is where the Daxiong Treasure Hall of Chongsheng Temple is located. Then slowly walk down the steps in the temple to reach the Three Pagodas.
far from the Three Pagodas Scenic Area, there is a Three Pagodas Reflection Park, which is also a very good angle to see the Three Pagodas, the reflection in the water is more vivid, and the Reflection Park is shared with the Three Pagodas Scenic Area. The closing time of the Reflection Park is earlier than that of the Three Pagodas Scenic Area, so you must pay attention to reasonable arrangement of time.
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