A four-day, three-night trip to northwest Yunnan: Experience the unique culture of Yunnan

Number of days: 4 days
Time: November
Average cost: 3000 yuan
With whom: and friends
Updated: 2021.08.25

Tucked away deep in the plateau, surrounded by mountains, lies a place guarded by generations of Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. Legend has it that this place is closest to the sky, known as the world's most beautiful pure land and the place closest to heaven, the very origin of all beautiful dreams. Perhaps favored by the Creator, it has been endowed with the purest beauty. This is Shangri-La, a paradise forgotten by the gods.

If Shangri-La is paradise, then Bala Gezong is a pure and isolated realm in the mortal world. This magical land boasts not only the ancient legends of the Khampa clan, but also precipitous and deep canyons, majestic snow-capped mountains, picturesque virgin forests, lush pastures, and the simple folk customs of Bala Village. In July, all life comes to life, and the romantic, snowy landscapes of the mountains and rivers are imbued with pure beauty. This is my second visit to Bala Gezong. My last visit was in April, when the mountains were blanketed in snow. If you really want to ask me why I'm back, it's simply to experience the beautiful meadows after the snow has melted, and the warm and simple customs of the Khampa people.

The vast mountains stretch across the sky, reaching into the clouds. The climate in the snow-capped mountains here changes rapidly. As the sun rises, the cloud bands continue to rise. At noon, the clouds may even float over the peaks. The opportunity to appreciate such a scenery is rare. According to Tibetan legend, only those with predestined relationships can have this blessing.

Shangri-La has many temples, large and small, of which Songzanlin Temple is the most famous. Walking in this largest Tibetan Buddhist temple in Tibet, you can smell the faint Tibetan incense in the air. When the lamas pass by you, they will say "Tashi Delek" in a friendly manner. If Shangri-La is a paradise, then Bala Gezong is a paradise on earth.

If Shangri-La is a paradise, then Bala Gezong is a paradise on earth. Bala Gezong, meaning "where the gods dwell," is Tibetan. Beyond its name, its location is equally remote. Once, Bala Gezong was practically untraceable on maps. With no electricity, roads, or communications, villagers at the time had virtually no cash income, and even necessities like salt and tea were extremely difficult to come by. Poverty and backwardness became synonymous with Bala Village. Escape from the mountains depended on a single, less than one-meter-wide post road built into the cliffs in the 1970s. The slightest inadvertent mistake could lead to a fall into the surging Gangqu River.

July is the rainy season in Shangri-La. The snow-capped mountains melt, and the mountains are covered with green. At this time of year, it rains for about one-third of the day. However, it also happens to be the rainy season when Tiger Leaping Gorge is at its most magnificent, so Tiger Leaping Gorge is a stop not to be missed on this trip.

I got up early and rushed to Tiger Leaping Gorge. I found that many tourists had already arrived. The Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic area is right after entering the parking lot. It takes about an hour to go up and down. The hiking trail was not as easy as I imagined. My legs and feet were a little sore when I arrived at the viewing platform.

The Jinsha River originates from the Dandong Snow Mountain in Gela, Qinghai, and after passing through the first bend of the Yangtze River in Shigu Town, it suddenly turns north and squeezes through the gap between the Haba Snow Mountain and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The originally calm and peaceful river water suddenly becomes furious, forming the most spectacular canyon in the world, and the narrowest part of the canyon is the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Tiger Leaping Gorge is divided into three sections: Upper Tiger Leaping, Middle Tiger Leaping, and Lower Tiger Leaping. The Upper Tiger Leaping, which we visited, is the narrowest section of the gorge and also the most beautiful part of the gorge. A huge rock stands majestically in the middle of the river, lying across the stream like a cascading waterfall, splitting the rapids in two.

Shangri-La, the most beautiful pure land in the world, has its own unique charm in summer and winter. It is a place worth visiting at least twice. The rising sun creates a sea of clouds in the mountains, moist fungi grow rapidly in the sunlight, and cattle and horses on the grasslands graze on the sweet, fresh grass. The sky is pure and tranquil, as if the eyes of Buddha are looking down upon all living things. Anyone who has seen it will fall in love with this place of freedom and inner peace.

As a child, on sleepless nights, I would often climb high to count the stars. But now, shrouded in smog, it's rare to see such a dazzling and boundless starry sky as the one before me. The night sky I gazed at at the Naked Melody Grand Canyon (Dongba Valley) in Lijiang is a sight I've never seen before, and I've fallen in love with it.

We've experienced the ever-popular RV accommodations. Tired of the city's fast pace, we chose a more rural retreat this time.

Dongba Valley Health and Wellness Town is a tourist destination that combines wellness and leisure. We drove here to cleanse our souls and relax our bodies and minds. It's very close to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, allowing us to easily see the peaks. Living in the mountains, by the water, amidst the rising and falling clouds, we simply felt at our most comfortable.

Experience the authentic Naxi customs in Baisha Ancient Town.

Arriving in Baisha, you'll find it feels like a nap in time, transporting us back through millennia to a time filled with the simple fragrance of ancient times. I've been to Lijiang three times, always to the bustling Shuhe Ancient Town, with its vibrant pubs and bustling night markets. This time, however, I preferred to experience a more quaint, quiet, and uncommercialized Lijiang.

Walking on the cobblestone road, leisurely strolling through the old streets, an old lady sitting in the corner, a craftsman carving wood paintings, a young artist doing handicrafts, the mist-shrouded Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance interweaves with the weathered ancient streets and alleys. There is no hurried footsteps, only the intertwining flow of time.

Elderly Naxi women in their traditional costumes can be seen everywhere in the ancient city. The plaque on the archway still clearly reads, "Baisha, the World Cultural Heritage Capital of the Ancient Naxi Kingdom." Beyond the doorplates, the snow-capped mountains can be seen in the distance. The doorplates create a subtle divide between the two areas, south and north. As you approach the snow-capped mountains toward the north, you'll find unique shops selling exquisite handmade jewelry and ethnic clothing, offering a unique and interesting experience. To the south, Naxi dwellings stand in neat, orderly rows, yet appearing secluded from the world.

Every day in Lijiang, as long as there is sunshine and blue sky, I like to look up at the sky.

In May, spring is bright and beautiful.

In the spring sunshine, I converse with the silent time of Baisha.

My heart is like white clouds, my thoughts are like flowing water.

When I am alone, peace of mind lies at the end of time.

There is a Lishui Jinsha in Lijiang, which showcases the living customs of more than 20 ethnic groups. Folk crafts that have been eliminated by the tide of time are displayed here one by one.

Yunnan is home to the largest number of ethnic minorities, so a trip to Lijiang wouldn't be complete without seeing a performance showcasing their culture. The performance, held around 7:30 pm, showcased dance, music, costumes, and ethnic musical instruments, creating a cultural exchange.

We are always searching, exploring, and seeking spiritual solace. This time, during my trip to northwestern Yunnan, I found my home in Shangri-La, the last pure land, and discovered the wonders of ethnic culture in Lijiang. When I look through my notes later, I will recall the past and it will be worth the trip.