Live Your Best Lives
Originally, I had a six-day holiday, but since I couldn't do the Qinghai Grand Loop, I temporarily rescheduled it to Yunnan. After cutting out a bunch of cities, I finally settled on the Lijiang-Shangri-La route. Ever since I started making my travel guide, various channels have been constantly bombarded with messages like, "Is Lijiang tourism really a rip-off?" and "How can I file a complaint in Lijiang?" It scared me into actually doing a thorough research, and I have to say I did avoid many pitfalls. I thought I'd nailed it, but just when I thought I'd nailed it, it fell apart right before I left.
1. Pick up the car
There aren't many direct flights from Shanghai to Lijiang, and the only cheap ones are budget airlines that fly earlier or later. I chose a flight that arrived at 8:30 PM. Since taxis and Didi Chuxing in Lijiang seemed unreliable, I opted for a large rental car company and drove my own car. China Auto Rental has a counter at the airport, but it wasn't staffed as we arrived late. We called and picked up the car smoothly, but then the chaotic exit from the airport followed. The rainy night, the poor Baidu Maps, the confusing signs, and the reckless driving made the drive from the airport into the city a real hassle. It was also the first time I'd encountered someone paying for parking after leaving the airport. It wasn't a common occurrence, but I wasn't entirely satisfied with the airport management. Little did I know the chaos at Sanyi Airport was even worse. 2. Hotel There are many B&Bs in the old town, but Lijiang Old Town is all cobblestone streets, and the slopes are a real challenge for travelers with suitcases. Since we needed parking, a hotel near the entrance to the old town seemed more suitable. I was very satisfied with my choice of the Lijiang Ancient Town Kasion Hotel. It has an underground garage, which is rain-friendly, and is within walking distance of the Old Town, with a long underground passageway providing protection from the elements. The three-story bathroom was clean. The only issue was the transparent partition between the bathroom and bedroom, which was a bit awkward for those unfamiliar with the room. Overall, aside from being a bit pricey, there weren't any major drawbacks.
By the way, I found a drugstore nearby to buy oxygen cylinders, which cost 15-25 yuan each, but it was 60 yuan each once I entered the snow mountain scenic spot...
3. Avoid pitfalls in Lashi Lake
I was scared by the bad reviews on the Internet about horse riding and boating and forced consumption. After careful research, I found that for children who just want to see the scenery and don’t want to ride horses or boats, Lashi Lake is actually very cost-effective, because it is free and really beautiful, much more beautiful than the fake scenic spots in the pictures on the Internet. The navigation destination is "Lijiang Lashi Lake Plateau Wetland Provincial Nature Reserve Management Bureau." Don't go directly to Lashi Lake, or you'll end up on a horseback or boat ride. Along the way, you'll encounter many seemingly legitimate parking spots marked with signs like "Lashi Lake Visitor Center," "Lashi Lake Scenic Area Parking Lot," and "Lashi Lake Horse Farm." Some people even try to stop you for money, but ignore them! Otherwise, go directly to the navigation destination. There are about 10 parking spaces, but since there weren't many people, they were mostly enough. About 20 meters after getting off the bus, you'll find a large wooden boardwalk nestled into the wetland. This scenic area, newly built and opened in February 2014, is close to pristine. It's free, rarely crowded, and the scenery is breathtaking. Having just arrived in Lijiang, we were completely blown away.
Lashi Lake original photo straight out without retouching filterAfter the tour, you can return to the original route. But it is worth mentioning that this area is not fully built, so there are no toilets!!! We asked a kind young man at the teahouse next door to borrow our restroom, but it was also quite pristine...
4. Shuhe Ancient Town
This is a free ancient town with no entrance fee. Navigate directly to the ancient town. There's a large parking lot nearby, and the parking fee is really reasonable for children used to Shanghai parking fees. The ancient town isn't crowded (compared to Lijiang Old Town), but it has a well-developed water system and is very beautiful. The ubiquitous sinks are a big deal. We spent 80 yuan on dinner for two and were quite stuffed...but overall, all ancient towns are similar. We prefer natural scenery over cultural attractions, so if it's not on your way, there's no need to visit.
Shuhe Ancient Town is free, less crowded and cheaper5. Lijiang Ancient Town
After returning to the hotel to rest up, I wandered into the ancient town that evening. My first impression was how crowded it was. It seemed like all the tourists in Lijiang had crowded here. It was also where the most scams were concentrated. Both sides were filled with bars, tour promoters, and accommodation salesmen... In short, Lijiang is a place where you have to arrange your accommodation and itinerary in advance. Anyone who hopes to find kind people on the street to help them with accommodation and entertainment is like a human lamb, waiting to be slaughtered.
Food is not expensive, snacks don't cost much, and the main meal depends on the situation. But there are many cheap and delicious restaurants outside the ancient city, why do you have to be in the ancient city? Lion Hill overlooks the entire Lijiang Old Town. The ticket is 35 yuan. There are many scenic restaurants along the way where you can order a drink and sit down to enjoy the view. I haven't seen the price, but it must be a little more expensive than 35 yuan. There is Wangu Tower on Lion Hill, which is included in the 35 yuan ticket. The higher you stand, the farther you can see.
Overlooking the ancient town of Lijiang, climbing Lion Mountain is still very tiring.I went to bed early at night to prepare for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Day 3 Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain must be listed in a separate chapter. I feel that the government is also partly responsible for the poor development of Lijiang tourism. They deliberately complicate simple things, isn't it just to set the stage for all kinds of interested parties?
Preparations for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain should start one day in advance.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is divided into four areas: Glacier Park, Blue Moon Valley, Yak Terrace, and Spruce Terrace. There is also an Impression of Lijiang performance at the foot of the mountain. Any attractions not listed in the four categories above are fake. I've read tons of travelogues about places like Lover's Valley and the Ancient Tea-Horse Road, but they're all privately owned properties disguised as snow-capped mountains. Don't go there. Glacier Park, Yak Flats, and Yunshan Flats have cable cars, but Blue Moon Valley doesn't. Of the three cable cars, only the Glacier Park one requires a fight; the others are quite generous. Tickets for the Glacier Park cable car open for the next day at 8 PM the night before. Reservations are timed on the "Lijiang Tourism Group" mini-app. You can book late, but not early. If you book for "10:00-10:30," you can go through the gate between 10:00 and 11:00. You can't go earlier than that; if you're late, your ticket will be refunded, so be sure to plan your time accordingly. If you're driving, set your destination at the Yulong Snow Mountain Visitor Center. Don't drive directly to the Yulong Snow Mountain Scenic Area, where the 100 yuan per person entrance fee is collected (though I don't understand why you can't pay directly online. It's artificially congested, perhaps because different people are collecting the fees). Otherwise, you'll find yourself 10 kilometers from the visitor center, where you can transfer to the scenic area bus. Forget about driving, but be careful with Didi taxis. Ignore anyone offering to buy oxygen tanks, sunglasses, or rent down jackets along the way. Bring oxygen tanks with you; you don't need them unless you're taking the Glacier Park Cableway. My friend and I used 1.5 tanks in total for the snow mountain. Down jackets are recommended for rent after the bus ride and before boarding the cable car. They're not expensive, costing 50 yuan, with a 100 yuan deposit. Renting too early means you have to carry your down jacket with you the whole way, and you can't throw it away, and you'll get so hot holding it.
The Snow Mountain Line is the most worthwhile route, as long as you can handle it. It's beautiful no matter how you click the shutter.
By the way, we took some photos of the beautiful snow-capped mountains. It was a pity that the snow was not thick enough. The vendor selling groceries at the door said that there would be no snow a week earlier... If you drive, try to park in parking lots 1, 2, and 3. We arrived late and the parking lots were full, so we had to park in the temporary parking lot. Not only was it full of mud and water, it was also far away.
After visiting the snow-capped mountains, we had lunch at the visitor center. KFC is a must for hiking. It is full, fast, and the prices are clearly marked. Then we boarded the shuttle bus to Blue Moon Valley. If you buy a 140-yuan cable car ticket, it includes a 20-yuan Blue Moon Valley bus fare, so there's no need to buy a separate ticket. The 50-yuan electric bus fare to Blue Moon Valley is a separate fee, which goes between Blue Moon Valley and Baishui River. It's completely unnecessary; the distance is only a few hundred meters, and the scenery along the way makes the electric bus unnecessary. The shuttle bus runs from the Visitor Center to Yunshanping to Blue Moon Valley, so you get off at the second stop. There's a sign next to Yunshanping that says "Blue Moon Valley Bus Station," which is completely misleading... Blue Moon Valley and Baishui River are beautiful, but for us who've already been to Jiuzhaigou, they were just average. It really makes sense to not miss the water after visiting Jiuzhaigou. After returning from Jiuzhaigou, you won’t want to see water. After visiting Blue Moon Valley, we left. It’s quite spacious to schedule two spots in one day. If you can accept the special forces tourism, then three spots in one day are no problem. After coming down from Xuelong Snow Mountain, we went straight to Shangri-La. It took about 2 and a half hours on the road. It was all highway and very easy to drive. The road between the towering mountains made us feel that it was really not easy. We still had to pay the toll. Some of the bridges and tunnels are wonders in themselves.
The 128 yuan toll is well worth paying. The whole way there, I was amazed at Japan's impressive infrastructure! The total entrance fee to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is approximately: 100 yuan for the mountain entrance fee + 140 yuan for the cable car and bus + 50 yuan for down jacket rental = 290 yuan. If you also want to go to Yakping and Yunshanping, I think the cable car fee is about 40-60 yuan each. Including food and drinks, the cost for two people was less than 800 yuan, which is actually quite acceptable. The Snow Mountain Cableway itself is also spectacular. I was exhausted from walking around; building the cableway was truly an undertaking.
1. Accommodation in Shangri-La
I've always heard that accommodation in Shangri-La isn't very good, and the non-reviewed hotels I found were way over my budget. It felt like the hotels here were polarized: some expensive, some cheap, with no middle ground. In the end, I chose the Hilton Garden Inn, a decent hotel. It's a bit old, the service was good, the facilities were average, the rooms were small, and the bathroom didn't have a three-way separation or independent ventilation. But overall, it was clean, and there was free parking. Considering the price, it was a good choice. If I couldn't find a better one, I'd be fine.
2. Food
Except for the area around the ancient city, there aren't many decent restaurants a little further away. Plus, I had a bit of altitude sickness on my first night there, feeling dizzy and having a headache, so I ordered a few takeouts. I can't recommend much here, and there's not much to eat when you're far from the ancient city.
3. Pudacuo National Park
A must-see attraction when visiting Shangri-La, China's first national park. Overall, apart from the slightly expensive ticket price, the management has the feel of national parks abroad, and the scenery is absolutely stunning. After parking, buy your tickets at the visitor center. After ticket inspection, get on the bus directly. A staff member will explain how to navigate Pudacuo on the bus. There were three stops in total. The first was the Youyou Trail, a pristine, entirely gravel path. From start to finish, there's no turning back, and it takes about 1.5 hours. I was actually quite interested in this trail; it felt like a hiking trail, but unfortunately my friends weren't interested and didn't go... The second stop was Shudu Lake. The trail loops around it, about 3km, and takes about 1.5 hours. This section of the trail is all built on wooden planks, making it a breeze. The third stop was Bitahai Lake. Bitahai Lake is a designated World Important Wetland Site, and development is regulated, with only about a quarter open to the public. The trail is only 2km long, and it takes less than an hour to complete, making it a breeze. If you're interested, you shouldn't have any trouble completing all three sections. Each section is beautiful, with blue skies and white clouds everywhere you look. The only problem is that the shuttle bus takes a winding mountain road, which can be quite motion sickness-inducing. The driver's skills were incredible; I'd never drive at that speed.
Pudacuo, a must-visit place in Shangri-LaI had a simple lunch in the library next to Bitahai. It was not expensive and the taste was not good, but the scenery was amazing. There were forests and meadows outside the window, so it didn't matter what I ate.
4. Dukezong Ancient Town
We left Pudacuo earlier than expected, so we decided to explore Dukezong Ancient Town. There's an affordable and convenient parking lot next to the north gate. While ancient towns across China are similar, this one has a more Tibetan feel. 80% of the area is B&Bs and travel photography shops, with the rest being Tibetan restaurants, butter tea, jewelry, and mushroom shops. I finally found the only lemonade shop in the ancient town, and the iced lemonade was so refreshing.
The center of the ancient city is Guishan Park. The Guishan Big Buddha Temple on Guishan Mountain has the largest prayer wheel. It was measured that it might take at least 10 strong men to pull it. In front of Guishan Park is Moonlight Square. When we arrived, people in ethnic minority costumes were rehearsing for the evening bonfire party.
Group dance at Moonlight SquareThe shops in the ancient city are also slow-paced, suitable for casual strolling.
1. Songzanlin Temple
People say online that if you can't make it to the Potala Palace, then visit Songzanlin Temple. With my small frame, I'm afraid the Potala Palace is out of the question, so I decided to visit Songzanlin Temple. As usual, I parked in the parking lot and took the scenic bus. There are three types of tickets: scenic area ticket, bus ticket, and guided tour ticket. Scanning the QR code at the entrance only buys the 90 RMB all-in-one ticket, but at the ticket office at the visitor center, you can purchase separate tickets with your original ID. Scenic area tickets are essential, and I still bought the bus ticket. The route is about 2.5 kilometers long, and while it's not a big deal if you walk, both sides are under construction, so it's covered in dust. Buses often pass by, bringing with them dust, and it's very hot under the sun. The guidebook mentioned that bus number 3 goes directly to the temple entrance. This route does exist, but tourists are not allowed on it, only locals. And honestly, the locals on the bus look so local at first glance, you can't really imitate them. The tour guides seem to only be offered at the hour, and our schedule wasn't right, so we didn't buy any. Songzanlin Temple has its pros and cons. There are just too many people, and there are incense money booths everywhere, even QR codes asking people to scan and donate, which is really impure. But honestly, this Tibetan Buddhist hall is truly beautiful, with its heavy, high-contrast prayer curtains, golden Buddha statues, intricate stupas, and pristine white butter lamps. The colors are beautiful, but it's a shame you can't take photos. Moreover, the main hall where you can take photos is full of tourists taking photos. Even if you take this spot, you can't take all the photos...
You can see the sky burial platform in the distance. The whole temple is surrounded by a large number of crows or vulture-like birds, which is a bit scary. The Ramyangcuo Lake at the entrance of the temple is under renovation and is not open to the public. It's a pity that I can't take pictures of the temple's reflection.
Songzanlin Temple, you have to climb up, climb slowly, no need for oxygen2. Napahai Avoid the Pit
If you don't want to take pictures with lambs or ride horses, then Napahai is a free attraction. Don't navigate directly to Napahai, you will be taken directly to the horse farm, and then you will not be allowed to enter without riding a horse. Considering that the grassland is a circle, the best way is to circle Napahai clockwise. There are large extended gravel areas from time to time on the road, where you can stop to view the scenery and take pictures, all for free.
It's recommended to take the Ring Road around the lake and around Napa Lake. Use the navigation system to locate "Conggu Grassland" first, then "Bantuerfei Cafe" and then "Shangri-La Alpine Botanical Garden" in sequence, which basically forms a closed loop. The so-called water highway wasn't available when we went there in early September; it seems to be available only in the rainy season of June.
Napa Lake is beautiful in the sun, but it can also be very hot. The overlooking point at the Alpine Botanical Garden is worth a visit. The road is a bit bumpy, and cattle and sheep occasionally scurry out, but overall it's an easy drive.
The photos taken in the car were so sunny that I didn't want to get off the car.In the afternoon, we went to the area around the ancient city for a meal, and set off for Tiger Leaping Gorge at nearly 3 pm. This road was really difficult to drive. I could only drive on the highway for a short section, and the rest was all national highways, which were all mountain roads. There were cows, sheep, trucks, pedestrians, people constantly overtaking, and cars with an indescribable speed limit. By the time we arrived at the B&B in Tiger Leaping Gorge, we were too tired to move...
Once again, I was impressed by the extraordinary infrastructure construction. The rainbow bridge between the towering mountainsDay 6 Tiger Leaping Gorge and the knife before returning
1. Tiger Leaping Gorge
Tiger Leaping Gorge is worth mentioning. My friends and I are not physically fit, so we didn't plan to hike to Tiger Leaping Gorge. We thought it would be easy to get there, but the hardest part wasn't the stairs, but the traffic jams getting into the area.
The host at the B&B told me there might be traffic jams at Tiger Leaping Gorge and suggested going early in the morning. I didn't take it seriously, thinking it wouldn't be a problem since it wasn't summer vacation. So we set off at 9 a.m. on a weekday and headed for Tiger Leaping Gorge, 5km away. I didn't expect the entrance to this 4A-level scenic spot to be a mountain road with one lane each way, followed by numerous checkpoints. At the first checkpoint, the bus stopped and the staff checked how many people were on board. They then gave me a slip with a number on it. I used the slip to buy a ticket. I drove another 3km. The bus lane was blocked, but the staff directed me to a lane reserved for small cars. The slope of this lane made me thankful I had an automatic transmission. The car in front of me disappeared while driving on. It turned out to be a big downhill slope... The second level, pull over as instructed by the staff, and then take the small slip to buy tickets. It sounds convenient, doesn't it? However, all the cars are lined up. If the car in front doesn't move, the cars behind can't move at all. If there is a tour guide waiting in line at the ticket booth, then you are doomed. He has to buy dozens of tickets. If the people in the car in front of you go to the toilet, then you are doomed too. You can only wait until they finish using the toilet... The third level is ticket checking. You just tear off a corner of the ticket. It is very fast, but you have to stop. The fourth level is ticket checking again. You just show the ticket with a torn corner. It is very fast, but you have to stop. The fifth level is finally at the parking lot. Park your car and go to the scenic spot.
We kept stopping along the way, then got stuck in traffic, and then there were some SBs who couldn't understand whether the cars in front were queuing, so they tried to be smart and overtook from the opposite lane, and then were blocked by oncoming cars, unable to move forward or backward, and continued to be stuck in traffic...
Speaking of Tiger Leaping Gorge, it is worth a visit. You don't need to take the elevator, and going up and down the plank stairs is not too tiring, especially the ascending stairs, as there are few people and it is suitable for taking pictures.
I was hit by the waves... 2. Lijiang Sanyi Airport, a lifetime of black!
After the Tiger Leaping Gorge, I returned to Lijiang, had a meal, bought some things and prepared to go home. I thought this Lijiang trip was going smoothly, but I didn’t expect that all my plans were miscalculated at the airport.
My carry-on luggage is a standard 20-inch luggage. It has accompanied me across the country. Even AA, which is famous for its poor service, has never raised any objections. However, it was not allowed at Sanyi Airport. The pre-security officer insisted that my luggage could not be brought on board and forced me to check it in. Then he charged me and my companion a checked baggage fee of 100 yuan each! When I boarded the plane, I saw that there were other passengers on the same flight carrying luggage of the same size on board. The luggage policy is extremely confusing! I checked online and found that Sanyi Airport often forces passengers to check in their luggage, which is obviously mixed with economic interests. When we got back to Pudong, we saw that our group had the most luggage in the entire hall, and there were even bags smaller than mine that had to be checked in...
I knew that traveling in Lijiang was a scam, but the scenery was so beautiful that I couldn't help but move forward. I didn't expect that I had avoided all the big and small knives, but I couldn't avoid this government-related knife. I complained as soon as I got off the plane, but I knew that there would be no result...
I can only appeal to tourists, be careful of the luggage scams at the airport...
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