Live Your Best Lives
【Time】2021.9.29-10.10
【Itinerary】
D0 9.29 Shanghai to Kunming, overnight stay: Kunming
D1 9.30 Kunming to Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake-Muli County, overnight stay: Muli
D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Temple, Changhaizi, Muli Temple, Mana Chajin, overnight stay: Mana Chajin
D3 10.2 Mana Chajin-Daocheng, overnight stay: Jinzhu Town
D4 10.3 Daocheng-Litang-Genie, Xiazetong Village, Eye of Genyen, Genyen Sacred Mountain, overnight stay: Genyen Naiganduo Village
D5 10.4 Xinleng Ancient Temple, Laoleng Ancient Temple, Genyen-Batang, overnight stay: Batang
D6 10.5 Batang - Babagou, Babahai, Dongba Village - Gaiyu - Baiyu, overnight in Baiyu
D7 10.6 Baiyu - Ganbai Road - G317, Tongcui Lake, overnight in Ganzi
D8 10.7 Cuoka Lake, Zhayi Temple, overnight in Xinlong
D9 10.8 Lharima Town, overnight in Daofu
D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayi Lacuo, Hongmuhaizi - Dangling Village - Danba, overnight in Danba
D11 10.10 Danba - Xiaojin - Siguniang Mountain - Chengdu, fly from Chengdu to Shanghai
D1 9.30 Kunming to Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake to Muli County, overnight in Muli
Ninglang Lugu Lake Airport
This airport is really small, with only one luggage carousel, but it's still quite fast.
Lugu Lake
Lugu Lake is still as beautiful as ever. I visited five years ago on a sunny day. The water was an astonishingly blue, like a mirror. In fact, we just wanted to choose a nice road to Muli, but we still had to pay a 70 yuan entrance fee as long as we passed by. In fact, there is no entrance fee to enter Lugu Lake from Muli.
A restaurant located in Lugu Lake. We chose two of the three signature dishes, and the owner assured us that we didn't have to pay for them if we weren't satisfied.
The Juewei mashed potatoes were indeed delicate and flavorful.
The diving fish was fresh, tender, and delicious.
We also had the local specialty, water lily.
Baked potatoes
It's said that selling baked potatoes has helped some people buy apartments, which shows how successful the business is.
4 yuan each, baked in a very traditional way. The potatoes are a bit crispy, but I prefer them softer and more chewy. I also dipped them in chili powder, which was quite spicy.
D2 10.1 Dingdong Lake, Kangwu Temple, Changhaizi, Muli Temple, Mana Chajin. Accommodation: Mana Chajin. Dingdong Lake. The drive took over an hour up the mountain road. From outside the valley, it looked like a sea of clouds. Upon arrival, the lake was shrouded in fog. Perhaps it's named Dingdong Lake because of the ding-dong-dong sound of cowbells that could be heard from across the river. The moment the morning mist lifted was truly magical. From the other side, it was completely invisible, but gradually, the view became clearer. All it took was waiting.
Breakfast
A roadside shop—not really a shop, more like a home.
The rice noodles with zhajiang (fried bean paste) were quite delicious, especially the bone broth, which was incredibly fresh. The roasted corn was incredibly fragrant.
Kangwu Grand Temple
Muli's second-largest temple isn't actually very large, but the architectural carvings are exquisite. The grand hall exudes a sense of ancient simplicity amidst its splendor, a testament to its age.
Changhaizi
The mountain road made me a little carsick. It was surrounded by mountains and the water was very blue.
Yak milk from herders
It turns out yak milk is naturally sweet, and the sweetness is quite strong, almost like it's been sweetened.
The butter tea here is also incredibly fragrant. I never knew butter tea could have such a rich, milky aroma, and it was also my first time seeing hand-made butter tea.
I forgot what the dairy product was called, but it was a bit sour and astringent, like clumping yogurt, but it felt very nutritious.
Muli Grand Temple
Much larger than Kangwu Grand Temple, this Yellow Sect temple boasts a magnificent exterior. The interior of the main hall boasts fresh colors, revealing its regular maintenance and renovations.
The second floor houses numerous Buddhist scriptures.
Many ruins remain surrounding the main hall.
Mana Cha Jin
From sunset to the starry sky to sunrise, it's all perfect.
The Milky Way can be clearly seen at 8:30 in the evening, and the sky is full of stars when you look up, with shooting stars often streaking across the sky.
Sunrise from the Mana Chajin Observation Deck offers a stunning view of 11 snow-capped mountains over 5,000 meters above sea level, a three-layer sea of clouds, and a halo of light. The centerpiece is the famous Three Sacred Mountains of Yading: Yangmaiyong, Xianuoduoji Dongpo, and Xiannairi. The price is living at over 4,500 meters, with no electricity, running water, or signal, and freezing cold. But witnessing the sunrise is truly breathtaking and worth it!
The viewing platform is undeveloped and accessible by car.
Mana Chajin Accommodation: Tibetan Home
His home is right at the bottom of the viewing platform, about a few minutes' drive away. The family has plenty of standard guest rooms, but they lack electricity or running water. If there are a lot of people, the electricity might only run for two or three hours, and then you'll have to rely on flashlights. No electricity isn't a big deal, but no water means you can't wash. Even worse, the toilet is across the street, and it's a dry toilet. Day 3 10.2 Mana Chajin - Daocheng, Overnight: Jinzhu Town The road from Mana Chajin to Daocheng isn't in great condition, with lots of dust. Driving all the way up the canyon, I felt the difficulty of the Shu Road. On the way to Genyen, I came across a golden forest and could already feel the autumn.
D4 10.3 Daocheng-Litang-Genie, Xiazetong Village, Eye of Genyen, Genyen Sacred Mountain, overnight stay: Naiganduo Village, Genyen
The scenery from Daocheng to Genyen is quite beautiful, and there are several viewing platforms along the way.
Eye of Genyen, Genyen Sacred Mountain
I didn't bring a plane, so the photo of the Eye of Genyen only vaguely resembles an eye.
But this is a great place to watch the sunset and sunrise over Genyen Sacred Mountain because of the reflection.
When I was there, there were people playing horse racing, which was quite cool.
The autumn colors of the mountains, forests, and valleys before me are comparable to those of Kanas in Xinjiang.
Accommodation in Genyen: Naiganduo Village
This is a newly opened accommodation, and finding accommodation with such conditions in this village is quite impressive. Be prepared for some hardship.
The room was quite clean, a standard room. There was a shared bathroom with hot water, but since it was heated by an electric heater, showering was a bit difficult, so I didn't plan to.
In the evening, the villagers danced, which felt like local square dancing. Some even wore traditional costumes, making it quite lively.
However, this accommodation doesn't provide food. You can only buy instant noodles, and the rest is rice and potatoes. There's no breakfast either, so you can cook your own rice. It's recommended to bring some food.
D5 10.4 Xinleng Ancient Temple, Laoleng Ancient Temple, Genyen-Batang, overnight: Batang
After watching the sunrise in Genyen, we went to Xinleng Ancient Temple. There was a blessing ceremony going on there and the main hall was not open to visitors, so we didn’t see the Three Treasures of Genyen.
From Genyen to Batang, it's truly a road to heaven. The scenery is stunning. We were the only car on the road, which felt like a dream. The pass is over 4,900 meters high, and getting out of the car to take a photo felt a bit dizzy.
The southern route to Genyen is so beautiful.
Babahai
The waters of Babahai are even more pure and transparent than those of Jiuzhaigou, like a gem. It's said that whether it's sunny or rainy, they always have that saturated blue-green color.
The drive from Babahai to Dongba Village took over two hours on a high-altitude gravel road. Parts of the road were stone and poorly maintained. It truly was a wonder that there were people living deep in the mountains. The village's location, viewed from above, was magical. Surrounded by mountains, the sun shone perfectly on this small, gently sloping slope. Hu Bayi would surely have considered it a place of excellent feng shui. The village, with about twenty people, subsisted on yaks and Cordyceps. The villagers were incredibly simple, perhaps their secluded existence was just that. Below Dongba Village lies Xiba Village, seemingly just below, though the two roads are quite far apart.
This place shouldn't be disturbed, but I sensed that the people within wanted to venture out, to be known. The villagers greeted us upon our entry and eventually took us to the main road on motorcycles, though walking up would have been quite an arduous task. They sincerely welcome visitors. Several young people offered accommodations, along with yak beef, barbecue, yak milk, and other traditional Tibetan dishes. Transportation was the main issue, and they offered to pick you up from Babagou or the county seat. Hopefully, this beautiful village, reminiscent of an oil painting, will retain its precious original charm and spirit even after attracting widespread attention.
Dinner: Pingtouge Restaurant
We randomly found it near our accommodation and it was surprisingly delicious.
The boiled beef was spicy, fresh, and tender, with plenty of side dishes.
The pork slices with green peppers were fragrant and flavorful.
The eggplant with fish sauce looked juicy but tasted soft and chewy.
D7 10.6 Baiyu - Ganbai Road - G317, Tongcui Lake, Overnight: Ganzi
Ganbai Road - G317
The Ganbai Road offers beautiful scenery along the way, from rivers to forests to grasslands to snow-capped mountains. The turn onto G317 is also very beautiful.
We passed by Lalongcuo National Wetland Park, which is still under development.
We were originally going to Ase Village in Yinduo Township to see the Danxia landform, but the road to the scenic spot had just been repaired and was not open to the public, so we were not allowed to enter.
At a glance, there are three lakes, each with a different color. The middle one is really just a pond. When viewed with a drone, you can see another lake in the distance, but it's blocked by the mountains and inaccessible by foot.
High-altitude lakes are always so captivating, their clarity like glass.
This 11-year-old restaurant is large, but a bit deserted. The owner, a Chengdu native, admitted that the pandemic has had a significant impact on business, and the increasing variety of tourist routes has led to a dispersion of customers.
The food was quite good.
The pork ribs were braised with potatoes; the meat had no hint of meatiness and was very fresh. The potatoes were soft and flavorful.
Stir-fried liver and kidneys, a Sichuan specialty, was delicious even with just the liver and no kidneys.
The homemade tofu was perfectly cooked.
D8 10.7 Cokha Lake, Zhayi Temple, Accommodation: Xinlong
Cokha Lake
You need to drive up the mountain to Cokha Lake. Although there is no gate, people will stop you and ask for a fee, 10 yuan per person, 20 yuan per car.
The reflection of Cokha Lake is very beautiful, suitable for a picnic and afternoon tea by the lake. The temple is of the Nyingma Red Sect.
Zhayi Monastery
After crossing the mountains and ridges to reach Zhayi Monastery, there are signposts at the entrance, but there are no signposts at the fork in the road behind. I took the wrong road and it took about an hour to reach the destination. There's a very small path down, but it's not very good, and it takes about five to ten minutes to reach the destination. Of course, there are no signposts either.
Zhayi Monastery was built on a cliff over 800 years ago. It was originally the place where the eminent monk Tashi Jiangcuo practiced in seclusion. Currently, a lama is stationed at the monastery, but without him, I couldn't enter and didn't see the legendary well-preserved murals.
D9 10.8 Larima Town, accommodation: Daofu
Larima Town
From Xinlong to Larima Town, there was a rush for road construction, and it took a few hours to send a letter. But this road will be quite good in the future, and it will be built according to national highway standards.
Lazhma Grassland is very beautiful. It is said that the ground is covered with wild flowers in July and August, and the colors change every fifteen days. When you hesitate to choose the most beautiful spot to take pictures, you realize that the grassland is over as you drive. It seems that the same is true for life.
A village on the grassland of Larima Town is being built with the help of Taizhou. In five years, it will become a mature attraction with starry sky rooms, grass skiing, etc. It is characterized by the stone slab Tibetan village. There is a large statue of Master Padmasambhava enshrined at the entrance of the village. The mantra of Master Padmasambhava is engraved on the mountain, so the entire village belongs to the Nyingma sect.
At present, a viewing platform on the mountain is almost completed, and you can see the whole village.
It is actually very close from Larima to Daofu, more than an hour's drive, and the mountain road is in good condition.
Dinner: Himalayan Kitchen
The decoration is very Tibetan. After so many days of living in a small village, this restaurant looks really flashy.
There are not many dishes, and the menu is for iPad.
Yoghurt, very thick, homemade and very sour.
The beef quilt is good, and the pancake is good. It is rolled with the beef and side dishes. The side dishes include onions, potatoes, etc., and the portion is quite large.
Ghee mushrooms are very fragrant, a bit like baked snails.
Potato pie, mashed potatoes wrapped in the pie, delicious.
Fried bacon with mushrooms has a strong flavor, both mushrooms and bacon are good.
D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayilacuo, Hongmuhaizi-Dangling Village-Danba, accommodation: Danba
Qimei Township is full of water and grass, and the scenery is beautiful along the way, passing by a magnificent temple.
Jiayilacuo
At the foot of the mountain in Jiayilacuo, someone blocked the road and charged a fee of 120 yuan. They only allowed riding their motorcycles up the mountain, and the fee was 120 yuan. In fact, this road has no problem with off-road vehicles. The road is very easy to walk on foot. It is four or five kilometers long. If you have enough time, you can choose to hike, because it is also quite beautiful along the way.
The water color of Jiayilacuo is turquoise, and the autumn colors are charming, which makes you feel relaxed and happy.
Redwood Haizi
It seems to be more than 20 kilometers away from Jiayilacuo. This Haizi is actually deep in the grassland where herders live. The road is too wild.
The motorcycle took me deep into the grassland, and the horse took me into the pile of rocks. I had to walk the last section by myself, and finally saw the quiet redwood Haizi. We also saw marmots in the grassland. The herdsmen were so enthusiastic. They invited us to drink yak milk and treat us to meals. They just ate the joy of ghee. Ghee is so delicious.
This Haizi itself has nothing to see, and I don’t recommend going there because the road the horse walks on is too dangerous. The horse stumbles when walking among the rocks, and it is very nervous to be carried on a piggyback. On the contrary, I think the experience at the herdsmen’s home is very good.
Dinba Dinner: Wanglaowu Hotel
I chose a 10-year-old restaurant, which is also very close to the hotel. It is on the second floor and is easy to miss if you walk by.
I ordered a fish with tofu in it. I thought it was too spicy and the taste was average.
Wild Mushroom and Pork Ribs Soup, a big bowl, the soup is very fresh, the ribs and mushrooms are also very honest, delicious.
The fried shredded pork with eggs, there are a lot of seasonings, it is very fresh, the seasoning is fresh.
D11 10.10 Danba-Xiaojin-Siguniang Mountain-Chengdu, fly from Chengdu to Shanghai
There were no scenic spots arranged on the way from Danba to Chengdu. I took a look at the entrance of Siguniang Mountain. The weather was not good and I could see some snow mountains.
When we arrive in Chengdu, we first check out an Internet celebrity landmark, the giant panda at IFS. You can see the panda’s butt downstairs, and you can see the giant panda in front from the terrace on the 7th floor. Many people are queuing up to take photos, so let’s just take a photo next to it.
Panxiang City
A restaurant recommended on the must-eat list, a time-honored brand.
The oil-soaked duck is delicious. The duck is very fresh, tender and tasty. It is a bit like the sauce duck, but drier than the sauce duck.
The braised pork ribs, pig ears, chicken hearts, chicken, and dried tofu all taste pretty good, so I guess it’s a no-brainer.
The goose intestines fried with fresh pepper are very numb. The goose intestines are well processed and very crispy, but the taste is not very delicious.
Healthy stir-fry, yam, snow peas, black fungus, carrots, just want to eat some vegetarian dishes.
Brown sugar pot helmet, the inner layer is a bit stiff, but the taste is okay.
After the meal, I saw many people queuing up to buy steamed buns.
Xiyuecheng Tan Douhua
After eating the salty one, try something sweet.
Iced drunken bean curd, 7 yuan, just like the flavor of fermented rice. The tofu curd has a strong bean flavor, and the texture is thicker than the tofu curd in Shanghai, but it tastes pretty good.
Brown sugar tofu pudding, this one is a little weird, it is hot, looks like soy sauce, tastes like brown sugar.
Tianfu International Airport
It is more than 60 kilometers away from the city, which is quite far, but the transportation is convenient. Line 18 is direct, and it only takes more than an hour.
This airport is large and new, there are not many people, and the security check is relatively fast. The facilities are very advanced, facial recognition is non-contact all the way, and the electronic screen at the bathroom door also has layout and crowding levels.
Finally, I will end this travelogue with the delicious Sichuan food I have tasted these days
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