5 Trips to Lijiang
My yearning for Lijiang began as a child. It's a mysterious ancient town where every home has water and flowers.
It turns out that ancient towns across the country were modeled after Lijiang. Although it's not as popular now,
it's undeniable that Lijiang Old Town is the forerunner of ancient town tourism. When it was popular, even traveling there was a novelty.
I always love going to Lijiang.
I especially love Lijiang. I love the endless ancient paths through the Naxi villages,
the cherry blossom paths on the snow-capped mountains in winter, and especially the sunny weather year-round.
It seems like every time I visit Lijiang, the sun is shining brightly.
Tourists know about Dayan Old Town, but not necessarily the idyllic villages just beyond the hilltop.
They know about climbing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, but not necessarily the stunning scenery of Tibetan Buddhism against the backdrop of the snow-capped peaks on Snake Mountain.
Those who are impatient can directly follow the title navigation "Tour"
A Dayan Ancient Town 90 yuan ancient costume photo shoot
B Black Dragon Pool Park to see the snow-capped mountains
C Honggupo Art Park to see the snow-capped mountains
D Baisha Ancient Town - the source of the Naxi people
E Shuhe Ancient Town - Dayan Ancient Town ten years ago
F Wenhai Village - a self-sufficient paradise village
G Fuguo Temple - the mother temple of the five major temples in Lijiang
H Lijiang Shwedagon Pagoda - the only golden pagoda of Tibetan Buddhism in China
I Dewei Village - an ancient Naxi village
J Lugu Lake - spanning Sichuan, Plateau freshwater lakes in Yunnan Province
K Walking Marriage Bridge - Mosuo walking marriage custom
L Luyuan Cliff - Source of Lugu Lake
M Lover's Beach - Local wish for love
N Lige Peninsula - Kingdom of Daughters on the Water
Total Cost: 2,000 RMB/person. Suggested duration of visit: 4 days. Lijiang Ancient Town Introduction
Every time I visit Lijiang, I stay in Dayan Ancient Town. Besides its reputation as one of China's four great ancient towns,
I also love the excellent value for money inns. I love staying in the Naxi-style courtyards.
Staying up on the second floor of the wooden attic,
looking out from the balcony at the courtyard's scenery,
it's like being instantly detached from the hustle and bustle of the city.
At that moment,
I always feel like "living in a human world, without the noise of traffic."
No matter how many times I visit Lijiang, Dayan Ancient Town is always a must-visit.
Away from the glitz and glamour, it's just an ancient village with a thousand-year history. Lijiang Ancient Town Lijiang Ancient Town
Lijiang Ancient Town
Travel through the Ancient Town
For just 99 yuan, you can wear ancient costumes and take a set of photos in the ancient town.
I chose the costume of Zixia Fairy from the play, a simple ponytail, a top and a long skirt.
Instantly, I traveled through thousands of years of history and felt like I was in the Lijiang Ancient Town a thousand years ago. Lijiang Ancient Town Lijiang Ancient Town
Lijiang Ancient Town
The North Gate, closest to Dayan Old Town, hides a number of off-the-beaten-path attractions, which may be overlooked by first-time visitors to Lijiang. Black Dragon Pond Park
Black Dragon Pond Park
During the pandemic, Black Dragon Pond Park is open to the public free of charge. This was my first visit to Black Dragon Pond.
Lijiang's Black Dragon Pond Park was built in the second year of the Qianlong Emperor's reign and was formerly known as the Yuquan Dragon King Temple. Guo Moruo's poem evokes the line, "Dragon Pond reflects thirteen peaks,
a latent dragon in the sky, a soaring dragon on the ground; jade water stretches for half a mile, its body in black jade, its spirit in azure jade." A couplet vividly captures the scenery of Black Dragon Pond. A clear, azure spring, shimmering like a gem in the sunlight, reveals its delicate texture. The pool reflects the pavilions and mountain peaks, a scene at every step, a mirrored scene, a painting in the water. In the distance lies Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. On a clear, cloudless winter day, the mountain's sharp outline is reflected in the pool, while the snow-capped peaks stretch out in a vast expanse. Tickets: Temporarily free, require advance reservation through the official account
Transportation: Bus No. 4, No. 2, No. 3, No. 13, etc. The northern part of the old city is within walking distance.
People often mistake Dayan Ancient Town for Lijiang Old Town, but they don’t know where the true origin of Lijiang Ancient Town lies. Ten kilometers north of Lijiang City lies a Naxi ancient town, remarkably preserved in its original charm. It is not only a significant birthplace of Naxi culture, but also the origin of Lijiang's ancient town. Baisha Ancient Town, nestled at the foot of Jade Dragon Mountain, traces its history back a thousand years to the Tang Dynasty. The Mu clan regime of Lijiang originated here, establishing Baisha Subdistrict, which became the political, cultural, and commercial center of the Naxi people. Harnessing the springs of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to bring water to the village improved its living environment and boosted Baisha's commercial development. At the time, the town's handicraft trade was already flourishing, primarily focusing on coppersmithing and textile embroidery. These crafts gradually disappeared after the late Liberation period. Local elders, dressed in traditional Naxi attire, squat beneath the city walls in the early morning sun to sell fresh vegetables.
A few small stalls are selling steaming hot breakfasts, and the atmosphere of Naxi life is everywhere...
Tickets: Free
Transportation: Bus No. 6
People say if you want to know what Dayan Ancient Town was like ten years ago, then come to Shuhe! Few people know that the sequel to our beloved TV series "Wulin Wai Zhuan," "Dragon Gate Escort," was filmed in Shuhe Ancient Town. The show depicts a remote Yunnan town. A 20-minute drive north of Dayan Ancient Town brings you to Shuhe, home to eight renowned scenic spots. The willow-lined bridge, shaded by willow leaves and flowing water, is a scene where the budding green of spring seems to reach the bridgehead. Fireflies from the night market, torches from the village, and the lights of the ancient town twinkle, illuminating the Shuhe Night Market. The sound of a broken stone tablet by the lake, struck with a stone, creates a crisp sound. The red leaves of West Mountain: Shuhe's West Mountain is home to numerous lacquer trees. Every autumn, the leaves turn red, evoking a deep sense of longing. Fish and water are like family: Legend has it that a divine fish lives in Nine Dragons Pond. Locals feed the fish, and they play with them. Moon-gazing at Longmen: Qinglong Bridge boasts over 400 years of history, with its central axis facing Jubao Mountain. Reflections of the snow-capped mountains: ancient trees lining Longquan Mountain, Nine Dragons Pond, with its crystal-clear waters reflecting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Night reading at Shilian: Shilian Temple on Shilian Mountain, a school established during the Republic of China era, where students studied at night.
Tickets: No need to buy a ticket if you enter from the back door
Transportation: No. 111 Tourist Bus
Wenhai Village is located in Baisha Township, Yulong County, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province, across the mountain from Baisha Ancient Town. There are only about 200 households and a population of less than 1,000 living on a vast land of more than 3,300 hectares. The road to Wenhai Village winds through the mountains. Before the construction of the winding highway in 2012, there was no direct access to the village, leaving it a hidden and unspoiled paradise. Only in recent years has it been gradually discovered by hikers and drivers. After climbing over a mountain, a 30-minute drive brings you to Wenhai Village. As the winding road descends, you can vaguely see a vast expanse of blue ocean and gently green meadows. The village is concentrated on the flat land near the lake. Land resources here are limited, so the locals rely on animal husbandry for their livelihood, with herds of cattle and horses grazing on the grasslands. The village is composed of small, hand-built farmhouses. A clear lake nourishes the few households, and the villagers are close friends and family, living a leisurely life from sunrise to sunset.
Transportation
The drive from Lijiang Old Town to Wenhai Village is about one hour.
A chartered car costs about 150 yuan round trip.
You can hike back and forth in a day by taking bus No. 6 to Baisha Town and then climbing a mountain to reach the village, a round trip of about eight hours.
Tickets: Currently uncommercialized, the village is inhabited by local villagers and does not charge an entrance fee.
Recommended Season
May to October, especially summer, when the grass is lush and flowers abound. During the flood season, the Blue Lake covers an even wider area.
The Shwedagon Pagoda stands atop Snake Mountain in Lijiang city, facing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance, offering breathtaking views.
The Shwedagon Pagoda is said to have been first built during the Tang Dynasty and rebuilt during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, boasting a history spanning over a thousand years.
Today, the Shwedagon Pagoda continues to rejuvenate and enhance its splendor through ongoing renovations. The temple covers an area of 109 mu (approximately 166 acres) and features a gilded Maitreya Buddha statue, the Guanyin Hall, the Thousand Buddhas and Ten Thousand Lamps Hall, and the Ashoka Pillar.
The God of Wealth Hall, the Golden Pagoda, and the main hall form the Grand Golden Pagoda Scenic Area.
Climbing Snake Mountain, one can gaze upon the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance, and the magnificent landscape of Lijiang's alpine snow-capped mountains and rivers come alive.
The five-colored prayer flags hanging within the temple create an exotic atmosphere. Tibetan Buddhism is characterized by its golden roofs, with smaller stupas surrounding a larger one.
Gilding is a major feature of Tibetan Buddhist temple architecture.
Tickets: Free
Transportation: Bus No. 15
Lugu Lake is nearly a four-hour drive from Lijiang Old Town via mountain roads, so the most convenient way to get there is to charter a car.
If you're looking to save money, you can share a car for around 150 yuan per person round trip, for a full day trip, including lunch.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend it. Lugu Lake is a fairyland where immortals reside, and it's definitely worth slowing down.
Spend a night by the lake and experience the leisurely pace of life.
On the border of Sichuan and Yunnan provinces lies a plateau fault lake called Lukuhaizi.
This plateau lake, spanning two provinces, boasts picturesque scenery, reminiscent of a fairy island. The island is primarily inhabited by the Mosuo people.
The Mosuo in Yunnan Province are considered a branch of the Naxi people, while those in Sichuan Province are considered Mongolian.
The Mosuo are not considered one of the 56 ethnic groups. Lugu Lake, however, is home to a significant number of Mosuo, Yi, and Pumi minorities.
After a bumpy four-hour journey from Lijiang, we finally arrived at Lugu Lake, passing through the 18 bends of the Jinsha River. Lugu Lake boasts five islands, four peninsulas, and 14 bays. Gemu Mountain, towering 3,754 meters above sea level, is the highest peak among the mountains surrounding the lake. Lugu Lake National Scenic Area
Two-thirds of Lugu Lake lies within Sichuan Province. The lake is divided into two parts: the eastern part falls under the jurisdiction of Yunnan Province, and the western part falls under the jurisdiction of Sichuan Province. The dividing line between Yanyuan County, Sichuan, and Ninglang County, Yunnan, is home to the Mosuo people of the Naxi ethnic group on one side, and the Mosuo people of the Mongolian ethnic group on the other. The Mosuo people are a matriarchal society, often called a "daughter kingdom."
Ticket: 70 Yuan
Transportation: Self-drive, chartered car, or tour group
On arriving at Lugu Lake, I learned about the mysterious walking marriage tradition of the Mosuo people. In ancient Mosuo tradition, there is no legal or stable marriage. Men and women maintain relationships and have children through a walking marriage system. Walking marriage means men do not marry, and women do not marry. People are curious about how the Mosuo, without marriage, manage to have children and have children. This stems from the Mosuo's matrilineal roots, where women are the majority. A famous attraction on Lugu Lake is the Walking Marriage Bridge. In the past, men and women would meet on the bridge. Mutual interest would meet during the day and then go to a flower house at night. A flower house is a room in a woman's home reserved for adult women, used for dates with the man they admired. The man would enter through a window at midnight and leave before dawn. While this walking marriage practice was widely accepted by the tribe, it resembled a clandestine relationship. If the relationship faltered, the couple could end the marriage at any time and begin a new one.
Tickets: Included in the Lugu Lake entrance ticket
Transportation: Self-driving
Searching for the source of Lugu Lake. It is said that the source of Lugu Lake is called Luyuan Cliff. From the village dock, board a pig trough boat and head toward the cliffs, encountering the clear water along the way, its ripples shimmering in the winter sun. Luyuan Cliff is the source of Lugu Lake and the outlet of groundwater, reaching depths of over 90 meters at its deepest point. Standing amidst the jagged rocks, beneath the cliffs, gazing out at the distant scenery of Lugu Lake, the village becomes a picturesque scene. The fluttering colorful prayer flags and the Mani stones of small stones bear witness to the religious and cultural imprints on this mysterious plateau lake, and bear witness to the intertwining of humanity and nature over time. In Yunnan's Lugu Lake area, the Mosuo people once relied on a canoe called a pig trough boat. These simple wooden boats, crafted from locally sourced large logs and hollowed out, are slender and T-shaped at both ends, earning them the name "pig trough boat" because of their resemblance to a pig trough.
The pig trough boat has a long history, serving as a vital link between the Mosuo people and Lugu Lake since ancient times.
Whether traveling or fishing, they relied on this single-sided canoe, which can seat seven or eight people.
Nowadays, it has become a tourist attraction for boating around Lugu Lake.
Take a local pig trough boat to explore the source of Lugu Lake.
Red-billed gulls, who have come from afar to spend the winter, accompany you along the way. The bread and snacks offered by the tourists on the boat keep them reluctant to leave.
Sometimes they chase you closely, sometimes they circle over the boat,
or even dart past at high speeds to snatch food from your hands.
The boat seems surrounded by swimming gulls on both sides.
Inadvertently, they spread their wings, soar into the sky, then dive down quickly. Lugu Lake's winter temperature remains as warm as spring for the gulls.
Tickets: included in Lugu Lake Scenic Area
Boat Ticket: included in the one-day tour
Surprisingly, even in the southwestern mountains, you can still see the emerald sea and sky.
Lover's Beach is located west of Lugu Lake, at the foot of Gemu Mountain and Houlong Mountain.
Legend has it that Gemu and Houlong were once lovers, but they offended the gods and were transformed into two sacred mountains of Lugu Lake. From then on, like the Cowherd and the Weaver Girl, the lovers could only meet once a year on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month at Lover's Beach. This myth has been passed down for thousands of years, and to this day, this stretch of beach between Gemu Mountain and Houlong Mountain has become known as Lover's Beach, a symbol of undying love.
There's also a legend that the Lovers' Trees growing on Lover's Beach always grow in pairs.
With no single tree to be found in the main bay, this sight of pairs evokes beautiful associations.
Today, visitors to Lover's Beach can see pairs of protected Lovers' Trees, nestled together,
resembling lovers in their old age yet still devoted to each other.
Along the coast, pairs of Lovers' Trees grow, a declaration of faithful love.
"If I love you, I will stand with you as a tree. Roots, clasped in the ground; leaves, touching in the clouds." This is perhaps the most beautiful description of the Lovers' Tree.
Ticket: Included in Lugu Lake Scenic Area
Lige Peninsula is entirely floating in Lugu Lake, with only a straight path connecting it to the mainland.
This 2-meter-wide path allows island residents to travel back and forth between the mainland and the peninsula.
The floating peninsula is called Lige Peninsula. It is connected to the island by a seawall, and the small lake bay formed by the peninsula is called Lige Bay.
The island is surrounded by water on three sides, east, south and west, and faces land in the north. The whole island is like the fairy island of Penglai, sleeping in the cradle of Lugu Lake.
There seems to be no end to the trip to Lijiang, and there are always many regrets. I didn’t come to Lugu Lake in the season when the water lilies bloomed,
I didn’t have a pig-killing meal in the Naxi village, nor did I watch the sunrise at Lion Rock.
Perhaps the regret is waiting for the next encounter. The trip to Lijiang is always on the road.
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