Self-driving trip to Yunnan: Shangri-La, Meili Snow Mountain, Baima Snow Mountain, Lugu Lake

Number of days：6 days
Time: November
Average cost: 4500 yuan
With whom：a person
Updated: 2022.11.26

Preface

In October, I had a 10-day vacation and planned to go hiking in Yubeng with friends. However, in the pandemic era, plans can't change quickly, and the trip ultimately didn't happen. At the beginning of November, the weather at Meili Snow Mountain and Lugu Lake was surprisingly good. Every day, seeing others posting photos of the sunrise under the golden mountains, I was itching to go. So, the spontaneous trip was decided. We set off from Zhongshan on the morning of November 13th. After a day of high-speed rail and an overnight train ride, we finally arrived in Lijiang on the morning of November 14th. After picking up the car, my solo journey officially began.

Y752 double-decker train

Lijiang Station before sunrise

Lijiang Station in the early morning

This Trip: My Temporary Little White Lion

Meili Snow Mountain

The original plan was to visit Lugu Lake first, then Meili Snow Mountain. The main concern was Lugu Lake's relatively low altitude, and the steep ascent of over 3,000 meters to Feilai Temple was too much for us to handle. However, the Lugu Lake tour included a trip to Liangshan in Sichuan, and Shangri-La imposed a three-day quarantine on tourists with Sichuan itineraries. Helpless, I had no choice but to bite the bullet and head straight for Meili Snow Mountain. After picking up the car in Lijiang, I hit the highway without even having time for breakfast. The November morning in Lijiang was clear, the temperature a few degrees below zero, and I shivered as I drove. I quickly filled my stomach at the Lashi Lake Service Area and was back on the road. From Lijiang to Shangri-La, you can take either the highway or National Highway 214. My route was to take the highway south from Lijiang and exit at Longpan. There was an epidemic prevention checkpoint right after I got off the highway. They checked my health code and itinerary card, took a nucleic acid test, and were allowed to pass. We drove along National Highway 214 for a while and passed the Haba Snow Mountain Observation Deck. There was no one there, so we got off the bus to take a few photos and continued on. We drove along National Highway 214 all the way to Xiaozhongdian and then got on the highway until we reached Shangri-La. After lunch at Shangri-La, we continued on our way. We parked for 20 yuan at the Jinsha River bend, but didn’t go in. We wound our way up the mountain to the Baima Snow Mountain Observation Deck. I planned to take the Baima Snow Mountain Old Pass, but there were ice cream cones at the intersection, so I was blocked from passing. I had to take the new National Highway 214, but the Baima Snow Mountain Tunnel was open to one-way traffic, and I had to wait in line for 20 minutes. Baima Snow Mountain Observation Deck Baima Snow Mountain

Finally arrived at Meili Snow Mountain!

Kawagebo in backlight

Thirteen Towers of Wunongding

Twin Towers of Wunongding Viewing Baima Snow Mountain from the top of a dense fog

As the car turned the corner, Mount Kawagebo suddenly appeared before our eyes. The moment was a profound shock to our soul. Under the clear sky, Mount Kawagebo was majestic and sacred, pure and elegant. This unforgettable glimpse has become eternal in our memory. We checked into a hotel slightly above Feilai Temple, and the window of our hotel room faced the Thirteen Peaks of Meili. Winter had already arrived in the Meili Snow Mountains, with outdoor temperatures dropping to -10 degrees Celsius in the mornings and evenings.

The Thirteen Peaks of Meili at dusk

Kawagebo at dusk

The Thirteen Peaks of Meili under the starry sky

Shennv Peak and Five Crown Peaks under the starry sky

Kawagebo under the starry sky

Meili Thirteen Peaks in the morning

Mount Kawagebo behind the golden mountain in the sun

Mencimu and Five Crowns Peak

Wunongding Observation Deck

Shennv Peak and Wuguan Peak, photographed from the viewing platform on the way from Deqin to Wunongding

Kawagebo Wilderness Viewing Platform

At night, the stars shone over the snow-capped mountains; in the morning, the sun shone on the golden mountains. Meili has given me endless surprises. November is the month with the highest probability of seeing the Meili Snow Mountain in the sun, but this view is only visible for about 40 days each year. It's said that seeing Mount Kawagebo in the sunlight brings good luck for the entire year. I traveled thousands of miles just for this moment, and fortunately—I saw it. I want to pass on this good fortune to everyone who reads this travelogue.

White Horse Snow Mountain

After viewing the golden peaks of Mount Meili in the sunlight, I had breakfast at the hotel and began my journey back to Shangri-La. I hadn't taken the Old Pass of the White Horse Snow Mountain on my way here, but I persisted and decided to take it again on my return trip. This time, I wasn't disappointed. The old National Highway 214 is in good condition, though there are some rockfalls and shell craters in some places. The road is narrow and has many curves. I heard it snowed a few days ago. The higher we went, the more snow fell along the roadside. The wind at the pass was extremely strong, and the prayer flags hummed softly in the cold wind, offering blessings to its believers.

Baima Snow Mountain Pass

Baima Snow Mountain

Baima Snow Mountain src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106312000a78m2kxAA02_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" /> Baima Snow Mountain

Baima Snow Mountain

Napahai Shangri-La Turtle Mountain Park

Turtle Mountain Park

Pudacuo

It was already evening when we returned to Shangri-La. The next morning, we drove to Pudacuo. Due to the off-season and the pandemic, the scenic area was sparsely populated. Shudu Lake in winter was tranquil and slightly melancholy. Only a quarter of Bitahai's attractions were open, and the road around the lake was closed.

Entrance of Pudacuo Park

Sky Mirror

Sky Mirror src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0104612000a78l7vsF8FF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" /> Shudu Lake

Shudu Lake

Encountering a Squirrel

Bita Lake

Songzanlin

After visiting Pudacuo in the morning, I arrived at Songzanlin in the afternoon. Lhamoyangcuo has been drained, and construction is underway on a plank road and other facilities along the lake. It's impossible to see Songzanlin's reflection in the water. I only paid 55 yuan for the entrance fee, listened to a portion of the tour guide, and wandered around aimlessly. I visited several Kangshen (Khampa) lakes, all with similar structures and architectural styles.

Songzanlin Observation Deck

Songzanlin Entrance

XX Kangshen Entrance

So-and-so Kang Can

Lugu Lake

After spending a day in Shangri-La yesterday, we set off for Lugu Lake early this morning. To save over 100 yuan in highway tolls, we decided to take the national highway the entire way. The road conditions on National Highway 214 from Shangri-La to Lijiang are very good, not much slower than the highway. There's a section of road construction between Lashi Lake and before entering Lijiang City, with only one lane open. The road was so bad that my little white lion got hit on the chassis. The Lining Highway, aside from some dangerous bends and rockfall, was in good condition and smooth sailing throughout. S353 National Highway Jinsha River Observation Deck

Lugu Lake, the pearl of the plateau, a highland blue lake that requires no filters. We stayed at Lugu Lake for two nights, and spent a day circumnavigating the lake. On the first day, we stayed at a lakeside inn near the Daluoshui Pier, less than 10 meters from the lake. The next morning, I was awakened by the cries of seagulls; otherwise, I might have missed the sunrise.

Lugu Lake

Seagull src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0105v12000a78lqz50BC4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" /> Inn balcony

Inn balcony

Dalushui Pier

Daluoshui Pier

Sunrise at Daluoshui Pier

Near Daluoshui Wharf

Daluoshui Wharf

Daluoshui Wharf src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0104s12000a78l7i74145_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" /> Sunrise at Daluoshui Pier

Daluoshui Pier

Near Daluoshui Pier

Lugu Lake

Seagull

Rig Peninsula Observation Deck

Xiaoluoshui Observation Deck

Dazu Pier

Goddess Bay

Walking Marriage Bridge

Walking Marriage Bridge src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0105312000a78lrnxFBC6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" />

Caohai

The next night, I stayed at the Zaishui Yifang Inn in Sanjia Village. They had an Akita dog there. Lately, he hadn't seen his girlfriend, and he was missing her. His eyes were filled with melancholy, and he'd lost a lot of weight. During a casual chat with the owner, I learned that the Akita I'd seen yesterday outside a shop at Daluoshui Wharf was his girlfriend. I hadn't expected to witness the love between two dogs during my trip.

Male Lead Wang

Female Lead

Baisha Ancient Town

I ate so much at Goodman Snacks yesterday that I skipped dinner and have been feeling sick to my stomach ever since. This morning, I had a bowl of clay pot chicken noodle soup, which made me feel a little better. The temperature was so low last night that frost formed on the roof and front and rear windows. Today, I'm returning to Lijiang. I'll take the evening train to Kunming and the high-speed train home tomorrow morning. I didn't want to backtrack from Lugu Lake to Lijiang, so I chose a more challenging route. I drove along the Lining Highway for a while before taking the county road in Yongning. The road is narrow and winding, making it difficult to pass other vehicles. On the way, I once passed a small truck, which was the most thrilling driving experience I've ever had. Fortunately, I managed to avoid any damage.

Near the Ahai Hydropower Station on the Jinsha River

Along the Way

This route passes through the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Scenic Area. At the entrance, we were told we needed to buy a ticket to pass. We had no choice but to take another route, which added over an hour to our journey. I've visited Lijiang Old Town before, and this time I wanted to have a cup of coffee in Baisha Ancient Town. Baisha Ancient Town may be small, but it's a great place to just relax and unwind. Sitting on the rooftop of a coffee shop, sipping coffee and basking in the sun while facing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was such a relaxing experience. I even met a woman from Hong Kong, and we chatted for over an hour.

Baisha Ancient Town

Coffee shop rooftop

Mantou Poet Baozi Shop

Steamed Bun Poet Baozi Shop

Flower Steamed Bun

Conclusion

This is my first time trying a solo road trip. The three years of the pandemic have been so depressing, I just wanted to go somewhere unfamiliar and relax. This week-long trip, while exhausting every day, has been fulfilling, and I felt like I was escaping the world. The day at Meili Snow Mountain was especially relaxing, as if I had been sheltered by the sacred mountain and didn't want to leave. I hope the pandemic passes quickly and we can return to normal life soon.