Live Your Best Lives
The three-week self-driving trip to Yunnan during the Spring Festival in 2018 and 2019 is a fond memory. Later, due to the impact of the epidemic and work, I haven’t driven to "Wine and Distant Places" for three years. I put in a lot of effort to do a lot of homework, constantly improving the itinerary, and many times I was looking forward to the trip. My son is 17 years old and wasn’t really keen on going out with my husband and me. Luckily, his best elementary school classmate, Cai Cai, and her family (four of them) were also planning a road trip to Yunnan. After some discussion, they unexpectedly decided to go on the same date as us, and they really liked our itinerary, which made the two kids even happier. Later, to keep up with our drive (Dali arrives the next day), they even set off a day early.
Preparation: Since I was already familiar with the area, and it was summer, my packing was even simpler, but I did bring an extra suitcase of clothes (mainly because I wanted to look stylish and bring clothes for all occasions, but I didn't need to change them once I got there, so I strongly recommend bringing more). I changed the engine oil the day before departure and brought two pounds each of instant noodles, white wine, and foreign liquor.
The luggage and sights from the spring of 2018 and 2019, and the summer of 2023, are getting smaller and smaller.
On August 4th (Friday), work was free, so we left at 1:00 PM and checked into the Wyndham Baise Resort (recommended) around 9:00 PM. We stayed out for the night and then went back to sleep.
On the 5th, we left at 5:30 AM (Baise has strict speed limits, but the air quality is good, so there's no penalty for exceeding 10%). Our two families met at the Kunming service area at noon. We were so happy! We took a group photo together. We arrived at the South Gate of Dali Ancient City around 4:00 PM. There were few people there, and parking was convenient. I immediately went to get a chicken hot pot with mixed mushrooms to fill my stomach and start drinking (there was a female driver who could offer me a glass of wine with every meal)! Then I enjoyed a stroll through the ancient city and checked into the Dali Blue House Seaview Inn by Erhai Lake before dark (the service was poor, not recommended).
The first wave of dog food
A couple enjoyed a romantic getaway by Erhai Lake.
On the 6th, it was raining. We had rice noodles at the Couple Inn and then went on a stroll around Erhai Lake. The newly renovated trails added a lot of color to the lake. It gets dark late in Yunnan, and with a well-planned itinerary, the kids can basically wake up naturally every day. So, at 11:00 AM, we set off for the Shangri-La Shanmei Inn in Tiger Leaping Gorge, where our journey officially began.
We got off the highway, crossed Songyuan Bridge, and had dinner at Yaomei Fresh Fish Restaurant on Xijing Highway (striped fish is a bit pricey). When we reached the Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge (Tencent Maps; Amap doesn't show the name of the bridge), we were told that the scenic area was closed due to recent heavy rain and flooding, and we couldn't cross the bridge. (I later searched online and found out it had been closed since 10:30 AM, no wonder there wasn't a traffic jam.) We continued driving, crossed the bridge (Tencent Maps), stopped, and called the innkeeper, who said we could enter. We passed through three security checkpoints, and after being told to go to Shanmei or to speak directly with the inn, we were allowed through. They didn't even charge us for the scenic area entrance fee (I didn't enter the scenic area on both visits, but in 2019, I paid for it just because I passed by normally). Before the inn, there's a 2.4-kilometer stretch with a 350-meter drop (results may vary depending on the software) and a dozen steep S-bends on a concrete paved road. Fortunately, the car handled it perfectly, without a single setback. We navigated the turns with one hand, and the straightaways were like an amusement park attraction (the passenger kept an eye out for oncoming traffic). It was quite captivating. The inn has its own parking lot, which can accommodate six or seven cars. After settling in, we took advantage of the light rain and hiked back up the highway for about a kilometer, turning back to the "ice powder" area as a warm-up. The misty, post-rain Yulong and Haba peaks presented a uniquely beautiful scene. Everyone was in high spirits and decided to stay for the 10-day journey. Opposite are Yachajiao Manor, Tea Horse Inn and Shanmei Inn.
Rain, mud, and high water, be careful
Buy one get one free dog food
The aroma of durian
I chose Shanmei for the hike. Since I had limited resources, I didn't set high expectations. Dinner and breakfast were served at the inn, and there was plenty of hot water. The previous night, a power outage caused a village-wide power outage. Repairs were made before dark the next day, so the impact wasn't significant. Luckily, we brought our gas stove and plenty of power banks. On the 7th, we began our hike on the high road at 11 a.m. The weather was perfect: clouds and temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius. Halfway through, a herd of cattle blocked our path, with two males fighting over each other. We had never seen such a situation before in any guide, so we all had no idea what to do and just waited. Fortunately, the cattle owner was experienced and, seeing that we hadn't reached the col ahead, he came over to help.
This cup of tea, let me ask you how it tastes
Guanyin Waterfall (I'm not sure if that's the name, but any fellow hikers have a definitive answer)
At around 1:00 PM, we arrived at Half Way for lunch (not expensive, and the food was just average), posed for photos on the "stunning balcony," and "patronized" the "World's No. 1 Toilet." We continued on our way. Under the sun, the scenery along the way was beautiful and colorful. When we reached Guanyin Waterfall (I asked the proprietress, and she called it Guanyin Waterfall. The section before the waterfall is the narrowest and most dangerous), the water surged, blocking the small path on the left. The gravel slope before the waterfall was also quite dangerous (there might have been a small landslide), so we turned back. Back at the Midway Inn, we enjoyed beers and coffee at the balcony bar. The convenience store provided us with the phone number of a rental car driver, and we arranged for two vehicles (150 each) to take us back to Shanmei. This hike was actually less than 10 kilometers, mostly flat, so it wasn't too difficult. Just bring a bottle of water and you'll be fine.
The dinner at the inn was delicious and affordable. Everyone got along really well. I'm very grateful to the inn. This inn actually has balconies with great views, but they're not covered up by the internet celebrity look.
Shanmei’s signature braised chicken is amazing!
On the 8th, after breakfast, we set off for Mr. Zhang’s Inn and hiked the canyon route (15 per person. There are three routes that lead down to the canyon, the other two being the “ladder to heaven” route and the “line of sky” route). We took photos at the large rock in the river at the bottom of the canyon. The water level in the closed scenic area was very turbulent, so we arrived at the perfect time, and our drone came in handy.
Teacher Zhang's route was covered in large rocks at the bottom of the valley. After more than ten days, the chalky path had all been washed away.
There's a small suspension bridge at the bottom of the valley that connects to the "Sky Ladder Route." There's an additional fee to cross it. We told him we'd just cross the suspension bridge and return the same way, so the fee was only NT$5. Crossing the suspension bridge to the large rock in the river cost another NT$10. (We'd hiked this once during the 2019 Spring Festival, and the water wasn't as high as this time. I highly recommend it. My kids didn't dare to do it that year, so we'll do it this time.) On the way back, we climbed the 168-step Warrior Cloud Ladder (NT$10 per person). The owner of the ladder was actually the driver who had picked us up back in Shanmei. The ladder was steep, and since we were running low on energy at the end, the young man was left behind, and we had already lost sight of anyone. Thankfully, the couple encouraged each other and slowly climbed, and we made it. This section of the valley floor hike took about 5 hours (including plenty of time for photos). The level climb was short, but the drop was quite steep, pushing my physical limits.
The suspension bridge is the dividing line between the two routes.
"Sky Ladder Route" Valley Bottom Suspension Bridge (2019)
"Sky Ladder Route" Valley Bottom Suspension Bridge (2023)
"Sky Ladder Route" Valley Bottom Suspension Bridge (2019)
"Teacher Zhang's Route" Sky Ladder
Map of the High Road and Canyon Hiking Route (Photo taken at Teacher Zhang's Inn)
From Mr. Zhang’s Inn, do not enter the tunnel and keep right. After 6 kilometers, you will reach the Jinsha River Bridge and cross Daju Township.
Youth is invincible
Rainbow on the East Ring Road on Haba Road
This inn is primarily managed by the proprietress, while Brother Luosang oversees the Fanchendela Wild Luxury Camp. The proprietress contacted me in advance to arrange a dinner group and time, so the food was served upon our arrival. The food was delicious and tasty. Seeing that I brought wine, she even invited me to try a local wine that her best friend really liked. The inn's courtyard is spacious. In the evening, I could smell the delicious aroma of braised beef brisket (the morning's breakfast), listen to music and sip tea, and watch the landlady attentively teaching guests about their day's climb of Haba Snow Mountain. On the morning of the 9th, I finally met the very busy Brother Luosang. After discussing the campground with him, I felt it was a good idea and decided to check in at noon. The drive from the inn to the campground is 9.5 kilometers, a very narrow, winding road. The last long stretch is gravel, so I drove slowly and took nine steps to reach the campground. The campground is located halfway up the mountain, and the alpine meadows are breathtakingly beautiful. After checking in, a friendly kid from the campsite, who was a perfect match for us, volunteered to take us porcini mushroom hunting. With an "expert" guiding us, we were able to find a ton of them. For the first time, everyone was like "little girls." The older brother told us about the Torch Festival, the camp's sheep butchering, and the lamb stew—it was delicious. That evening, the campsite had a bonfire and fireworks display, which was even more exciting. The two kids even showed off their electronics skills. If we had checked in early, we'd have plenty of time to ride horses to the alpine pastures and lakes.
The porcini mushrooms we picked
These two children took a creative photo. What do you think of it?
Porcini mushrooms as big as fists
On the 10th, it rained in the middle of the night and stopped in the morning. After that, the clouds and mist dispersed, and the campsite became like a fairyland. It was worth the ticket price. I also saw the peak of Haba Snow Mountain. We set off at 10 a.m., following the eastern loop. Halfway through, seeing the weather was clear, we added a visit to Baishuitai and then to Pudacuo National Park. We arrived at Shangri-La and asked my friend to search online. They recommended "Xueyu Tibetan Hot Pot," a hot pot restaurant near the ancient city. We highly recommend the yak hot pot and the Tibetan pork.
Baishuitai
Pudacuo Shudu Lake
After dinner, we checked into the Xiangbai Tibetan Art Courtyard in Shangri-La. This was my first self-drive trip in 2018, staying in the ancient city. This time, I specifically chose to stay in the Songzanlin Temple scenic area. The hotel offers a discounted entrance fee of 62 yuan per person (entry into the temple is required), and you can stay in and out for multiple days. The inn is run by the innkeepers, a couple who are very sincere and helpful. Their daughters come to help out on their days off. If you'd like to have dinner with them, be sure to make a reservation. The inn is located across from the temple, with parking available in the courtyard. The rooms are spacious and well-decorated. I highly recommend it. On the 11th, I went to the Snowland Tibetan Restaurant for lunch again. The hot and sour pork trotter hotpot was excellent. I visited Dukezong again. Five years ago, I bought a tea set I really liked from Wuchen. Soon after returning, someone smashed the teapot. This time, I went looking for it. Their shop had moved, and fortunately, we stumbled upon its new location. My wife recognized the proprietress (though they were much more charming). She'd changed a lot since becoming a mom, no longer possessing the usual "buy anything you like" attitude. I even invited my son in. The two families were deeply moved by the encounter, chatting for a few hours before choosing and paying the bill. Besides the teapot (someone else paid for it), I also picked out a few favorites for my sister as a birthday present. After exploring the ancient city, we drove down to Napa Lake, had dinner, and returned to the inn.
Searching for "Wu Chen" (the proprietresses are sisters who own two "Wu Chen" restaurants in the ancient city)
The changes in my age from 18 to 23 years
The top one is the new one, the bottom right one is the original one. It doesn't really match up, but the process of finding it back at the store was fun.
I sent it back to my sister by taxi. 2,000km express delivery, just in time for her birthday.
Fulfilling a wish from five years ago, I invited Cai Cai to Xiao Cai Coffee for coffee.
On the morning of the 12th, my husband and I went to Songzanlin Temple. After lunch, we set off for the "Deqin Fragment My Hometown Meili Snow Mountain Mansion." It was raining and winding, so we encountered two other cars on the road, so we had to drive slowly. We passed the "Omiga" bend of the Jinsha River and stopped to take photos. I'm charging a fee now, but I'm sure it's a good thing, so I didn't even dare to use the restroom.
Watching the "Omiga" bend of the Jinsha River in the rain
We agreed on the menu with the restaurant in advance, and we were ready to eat soon after arriving late. The food was excellent. The mansion is tastefully decorated and has luxurious facilities, but the price is a bit high. There are high-rise hotels on both sides, so I hope the prices will be more affordable by then. Rain and fog made it difficult to see Jinshan.
The two families waved goodbye at the entrance to the mansion (I can't bear to look at you, turn your back on me...)
On the 13th, as originally planned, we would visit the Millennium Salt Well the next day and then return to Feilai Temple for one night. At 10:00, my family and I set out ahead. Unfortunately, the weather turned bad. We left our son D in the car and headed for Ninong Canyon (we didn't choose Feilai Temple; we wanted to see the zip line and the entrance to the rain avalanche). Suddenly, I felt like going to Ninong Canyon. It was Sunday, and there was still a week to go. Why not go for the 318th?! As soon as we mentioned it, my wife and son agreed. We stopped to check the navigation system, and the route was smooth. We were happy to make the decision (we missed the sunrise at Jinshan on August 14th). It's so nice to be able to change things suddenly.
After driving for half an hour, we crossed the Zonianong Bridge and saw the abandoned Zonianong Suspension Bridge and zip line. I had been eyeing this place on the map for a long time and this time I made a special trip over it. I was not disappointed, it was spectacular. Not far ahead is the intersection to Yubeng. When I'm on my phone at night, I always keep an eye on local videos on Tik Tok, where I can find a lot of useful information. I saw a mudslide on the Gushui section of G214 last night, and they said repairs would be completed that evening. We passed through the area at noon today, and it was one-way, so we were lucky enough to be there for less than half an hour. We entered Mangkam and Tibet at 1:30! Just ahead is the Qamdo Public Security Checkpoint in Tibet, where you can get in with your ID.
At 2 o'clock, I went to the more famous "Yanjing Authentic Noodles." It's 30 yuan per person, all you can eat. The record on the wall shows 147 bowls. The waiters sing and dance, eagerly asking you to "add one, add one." You have to pick up stones on the table to count each additional bowl. The noodles are quite ordinary, but the experience is very enjoyable. I recommend it.
Then we went to see the Tibetan Salt Well Catholic Church and the thousand-year-old salt well, and then set off for Mangkang. We arrived at 6 o'clock and chose a hotel on the left. This "Mangkang Baijing Hotel" is on the main road. We checked in after checking it out. It was 250 yuan per night. It was clean and well-maintained. There was parking in the courtyard downstairs. We had a few stir-fried dishes at the small shop opposite and then went back to the hotel to sleep. On the 14th, we set off at 6:30. After looking at the intersection on this map several times, I stopped and looked, thinking that there would always be a chance to turn left (enter Tibet).
This time, we stopped by for a quick stop.
We visited the Cuopugou Scenic Area, which was a pleasant surprise and highly recommended. It turns out you can drive in, but you have to book a reservation a day in advance through the scenic area's mini-app. We didn't know, so we booked tickets through China-TravelNote. We took the bus from the visitor center, which was quite empty. The 13-kilometer drive to the entrance of the scenic area took about half an hour, even if the road was tight. The weather was perfect, and the Zhangde Grassland, set against the backdrop of the Zhajinjiabo Mountain, was a vibrant and spectacular sight. I immediately felt I had chosen the right place, and since I was staying at the 318 sign, it felt perfect. The bus only goes to Cuopu Lake, and then you can choose to take an electric car to the top of Cuopu Temple, and then go back to see the two small lakes and Cuopu Lake, which is completely beyond Pudacuo and Jiuzhaigou.
Sister Lake
On the 15th, we set off at 7:00 AM. We were on the 18-turn Xitian Road. Because many cars were parked on the side of the road, and someone was going the wrong way, we were stuck on the left for half an hour. The rest of the way was smooth. We passed Kangding Airport and were able to see the plane landing. There were so many people and so much fog at Zheduo Mountain that we didn't stop. We arrived at Kangding Love Song Square around 3:00 PM. Parking was completely blocked along the riverfront, but we found a spot along the fruit line just inside. We took a few photos, had some hot pot, and then headed to Dujiangyan. We checked into the Balun International Hotel (a two-night stay, recommended) at 8:00 PM and had dinner at the mall downstairs.
18 Bends of the Sky Road
Kangding Airport
Yangtianwo Square
On the 17th, I went with my wife and son to see the pandas (pandas, we hadn't gone to see Gala for years). And now it's back again, and we've booked the night before for the afternoon session, which is perfect for the sun and a two-hour breakfast. We left for the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding at 11am, entering through the west gate on the left. There were fewer people and cars. It's so big inside, I absolutely had to take the electric car. After strolling around for about two and a half hours, I headed to Chengdu and checked into the Shangri-La Hotel. I'd heard it was my turn to have my license plate number restricted, so I took the opportunity to stay a few more nights.
On the 20th, we set off at 8 a.m., and the couple got on board. We returned to Guangzhou in 12 and a half hours, a total journey of 5,200 kilometers. It was a complete and perfect journey.
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