Crossing the Lost Horizon | Shangri-La Balagzong Hiking Tour

Number of days: 2 days
Time: October
Average cost: 500 yuan
With whom: and friends
Updated: 2023.09.28

Before setting off, we were already excited for this hike. The Shambhala Pagoda, towering over the horizon, stood in the distance at the northeastern end of Balagezong, awaiting our arrival.

Balagezong is located on the Yunnan-Tibet Highway, a must-go for self-driving electric vehicles. We happily set off along the "Sky Road" traversing the cliffs. The first stop on the hike was the Shambhala Pagoda. Our guide explained that the custom of circumambulating the pagoda has been practiced in nearby Tibetan villages for centuries. Legend has it that the Shambhala Pagoda, described in the Kangyur, a Buddhist sutra, represents a celestial pagoda, a place where war, plunder, and deception have never existed. Tibetans hold the pagoda in high esteem, circumambulating it annually to pray for happiness, good fortune, and the fulfillment of their wishes. Therefore, the solemn and sacred circumambulation ceremony is essential at the start of the hike. At the end of September, the scenery of the Shambhala Stupa was still breathtaking. Although overcast and occasionally drizzling, the pristine purity and sacredness of the Stupa captivated everyone. After burning incense and burning incense, we began circumambulating the Stupa. The Stupa on the horizon truly had the power to move the soul. After only a few minutes, some members were moved to tears. My long-cherished wish to circumambulate the mountains, the waters, and the Stupa had finally been fulfilled, and a deep, heartfelt joy welled up within me. After visiting the Shambhala Pagoda, we followed the mountain road toward Guisuwang. Some sections of the road ran along cliffs, others through forest. The cliff path was quite treacherous, and our tour guide urged us to stay close to the mountain. I was a bit afraid of heights, so I didn't dare look down the cliff for fear of losing my footing. Once we reached a forest, our team members discovered numerous wild mushrooms. One of them, our guide said, was called "white foam mushroom," and it was edible. In addition to our team leader, our group also included a guide, horsemen, and staff responsible for safety and food. The horsemen led the horses, and the horses carried our bags. The first day was the longest. We set off at 10:30 AM and finally arrived at Guisuwang Camp after 6:00 PM (after stopping at a supply station for biscuits and apples). The camp consisted of five cabins. Guisuwang is a pasture where the Bara people once grazed their yaks, mules, and sheep.

A couple of times along the way, I felt incredibly tired, but seeing the other teammates, staff, and loaded horses struggling to keep going, I rested for a while and caught up again.

When we arrived at the cabin, the staff in charge of cooking had already arrived, had lit a fire, and were cooking. Dinner consisted of pork rib soup, boiled corn, boiled sweet potatoes, stir-fried cauliflower, and stir-fried mushrooms. Perhaps because we were tired from walking, everyone thought the food was especially delicious. Even I, who usually have a poor appetite, devoured two boxes of rice in a row.

After dinner, it was already late, the mountains were silent, and we fell asleep peacefully in the embrace of the mountains.

The next day, we traveled from Guisuwang to Naidang. The tour guide told us that Naidang was once the second home of the Bara people. Historically, the Bara people migrated three times a year to Naidang Village. In the Bara people's memories, this migration was a major event for the entire village. The migration date was set more than ten days in advance by village elders well-versed in astronomy and geography. As the day approached, every household began to prepare their belongings and make their own rice cakes. On the day of departure, before dawn, one family after another loaded their yaks, mules, and horses, laden with belongings and provisions, and set off for Naidang. The scene was magnificent.

The next day, the weather was sunny all the way from Guisuwang to Naidang, which took us nearly six hours. Naidang is a relatively flat area with nine small wooden houses. Dinner consisted of boiled corn, boiled potatoes, boiled sweet potatoes, stewed chicken with mushrooms, and stir-fried cabbage. The chicken soup was incredibly delicious; I drank several bowls straight. The starry sky over Naidang was breathtakingly beautiful, so close that it felt like we could reach out and touch it. Before heading into the cabin to sleep, my teammates and I stood beneath the stars for a long time, reluctant to leave. Lying in the cabin, my mind replayed the forests, cliffs, and Mani piles I'd seen along the way, and I quickly fell asleep.

Day three marked the return journey, departing from Naidang at 8:30 a.m. On the way back, all fatigue had washed away, leaving us feeling light and refreshed. A little after 1 p.m., we had lunch at a restaurant across from Bala Village and then returned to our hotel in the village. Gazing at the cattle and horses grazing leisurely on the hillside in the distance, I was struck by the calm and cheerful nature of the Bala people. Reflecting on my three-day hike, I felt a sense of relief.