South of the Colorful Clouds - A Glimpse of Tengchong and Dali

Number of days：7 days
Time: December
Average cost: 10,000 yuan
With whom：a person
Updated: 2024.01.16

Foreword

Day 0: Heshun, a Place of Rich History and Bookishness

My early morning flight departed Hongqiao Airport via Kunming and landed at Tengchong Airport. I was picked up by the Heshun Haiyan Inn, where I was staying. Located in the heart of the ancient town, the inn is several blocks away from the scenic area, offering a tranquil atmosphere amidst the bustle.

Due to health reasons, I didn't go to the hot springs, which was a small regret.

The terrain of the ancient town is very obvious, which reminds me all the time that this is not an ancient town in the south of the Yangtze River. Walking on the winding stone road, it seems as if I have returned to the Republic of China. The pioneers who were far away from their hometown received modern education in Peking, became scholars, and embarked on a long journey back to their hometown. They founded schools and libraries in this ancient town, educated local people, and made it a fertile cultural land at the gateway to the southwest. The many family ancestral halls in the ancient town still left many memories. However, due to knee problems, I did not have the opportunity to visit them one by one and listen to the stories of the predecessors.

The inn room was wonderful. Bathed in the afternoon sun, I brewed a pot of local black tea and randomly selected a few books from the inn's library. It was a day I'd only dreamed of. After reading about Tengchong, I realized that it's not only a place of exciting battles, but also a place of cultural cultivation and heritage. No wonder, on subsequent trips, while exploring the surrounding towns with their rich ethnic customs, Tengchong felt like a world that had been sinicized, a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan.

The vibrant atmosphere of Xiaocai Street

Early in the morning, before dawn, I opened the inn door and was stunned! It turns out that Xiaocai Street is more than just a name; the bustling market proves its real existence. A variety of local vegetables, medicinal herbs from the mountains, and mushrooms from the forest bring a lively atmosphere to the town all day long.

The ancient town's scenic spots are mainly water, trees, and houses: Wild Duck Lake and wetlands, the ancient banyan tree of Thousand-Armed Guanyin, the Heshun Library and archway (as well as many memorial halls and ancestral halls). Day 1 A Volcanic Geopark

We joined a small group tour of the area, our first stop being the Volcano Geological Park, which consists of two extinct volcanoes (Dakong Mountain and Xiaokong Mountain) and a volcanic geological museum. Dakong Mountain is higher up, likely due to a recent wildfire; it's bare, with steps and a dirt path. Xiaokong Mountain, on the other hand, is lush and green, with trees growing beautifully.

There are a number of activities nearby, hot air ballooning being a popular one, and horseback riding up Dakong Mountain. Listening to the horseman rambling on about the difficulty of climbing and the convenience of horseback riding, I found myself amused. Dakong Mountain doesn't look any higher than Shanghai's highest mountain (Sheshan), so how could it be so difficult? However, the power of words should not be underestimated. Many people decided to use horsepower to ascend the mountain, and of course, enjoy the little pleasure of riding. Dakong Mountain has approximately 600 steps, divided into three sections. While the climb isn't easy, it's incredibly rewarding. Even the towering peaks of Dakong Mountain in the distance couldn't dampen the joy of reaching the summit. Listening to the jingle of horse bells, I walked along the crater. The hike only totaled a little over 1,000 steps. While I wouldn't say every step offered a new view, I did find a different scene every moment.

Day 1 B Beihai Wetland

As the name suggests, this is a wetland. I personally feel it is similar to the Puzhehei Geopark wetland, but smaller in scale but more elaborately planned.

Take a boat to the center of the wetland and stroll along the wooden plank road, passing by popular check-in spots. Stunning photos are taken frame by frame, and amid the admiration of tourists, I actually feel a little bit of a sense of otherworldliness. Here, without relying on feeding, you can still capture egrets spreading their wings and mandarin ducks roaming around, and the years are peaceful and quiet.

Day 2 A: Ruili and Mangshi Along the Way

I booked a one-day trip through an agent, exploring the local customs and people of western Yunnan. Starting in Tengchong, we traveled to Ruili, and ended in Mangshi.

The route was filled with cultural attractions, including the Longjiang Bridge, Yizhaiguoliang, and Jiegao Port—places I wouldn't have chosen on my own. Yet, each one offered unexpected discoveries, once again demonstrating the world's multifaceted nature.

Longjiang Bridge

It’s a welcoming name, just take a look; it’s a pity that the national post office is closed.

Modeled after the border pagodas of Myanmar, may the Dharma be boundless.

A completely different port from Pudong Airport

An unknown Buddhist temple (half-finished)

A single tree in the forest

Day 2 B Mori Rainforest

It was destined to be an extremely tiring day, but the Mori Rainforest hike was an essential part of the day.

Actually, the walk was quite boring. To me, it felt similar to walking along the Nine Creeks and Counting Eighteen Gorges. To be fair, the scenery here is more profound, the vegetation is richer, and the sense of exploration is stronger. The walk was mainly slopes and a few steps. The winding path led to a secluded place, and the view suddenly opened up. The fatigue temporarily faded away, and after the excitement, the journey home didn't seem so far. Day 4: Dali Ancient Town Night View

After a tiring journey, I finally arrived in Dali from Mangshi and stayed in a designer guesthouse on the edge of Dali Ancient Town. The exquisite courtyard and pond design, the swing in the courtyard, and the sunroom all showcased the room's uniqueness.

Setting foot in Dali Ancient Town, I was greeted by a vibrant commercial atmosphere. Over 80% of the shops sold flower cakes and silverware. Unfortunately, I wasn't a fan of the cakes mixed with fruit (and flowers), perhaps a reminder of the winter melon mooncakes I ate as a child.

I hadn't expected the ancient city to be so complex. It wasn't the square walled enclosure I'd imagined. There were multiple gates and a central tower. As a defensive castle, its design and construction must have been tailored to the overall environment (Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake) and its defensive needs.

Now, all I have left is admiration, and even less nostalgia.

Day 5 Around Erhai Lake

This is the most beautiful part of the whole trip! Erhai Lake is divided into two parts, east and west. The western part, near the ancient city of Dali, was developed earlier, while the eastern part, nestled against the mountains, is primarily home to fishing villages and more recently popular online attractions.

Did you see a dazzling convertible driving by? It looked youthful and bold, adding to the scenery.

We chartered a car and circled Erhai Lake, stopping at Longkan Ancient Ferry, S Bay, Xizhou Ancient Town, Shuanglang, and other places. Every stop was captivated by the waters of Erhai Lake: its seagulls, its water plants, its waves, its wind... Under a blue sky, white clouds drifted, ripples rippled, a cool breeze blew, and people came and went, phones in hand, coffee in hand, bicycles on wheels, and perhaps even a 🎈 in hand, each enjoying their own unique experience.

Words are scarce; I can only keep my eyes open, trying to capture it in my heart, planning a return visit.

Day 6 Cangshan Mountain and Dali Museum

It’s the last day, and I decided to go to Cangshan Mountain! After all, as the local ballad goes, "Cangshan has nineteen peaks, Erhai has eighteen streams." Cangshan and Erhai are on par with each other. I didn't challenge myself to climb the mountain, and the cable car ride was challenging too. However, from the cable car, I witnessed "the sunrise and the clouds parted." It was as if the cable car had suddenly jumped out of the vast sea of clouds, and the blue sky came into view, bathed in sunlight.

The view from the top of the mountain was quite ordinary. I had the opportunity to taste Yunnan coffee from the top of Cangshan Mountain. Due to the ice on the top of the mountain, I decided not to walk the 200 meters to the alpine botanical garden. I'll save that for next time.

Back in the ancient town, I was secretly delighted to find the Dali Museum open. I pretended to explore it before leaving. The museum's collection was surprisingly rich, showcasing the history of the Dali Kingdom as well as modern tomb objects as evidence.

Finally, I was able to climb a tall building and get a bird's-eye view of the ancient city.

Conclusion

I'm incredibly grateful for the sudden inspiration a few days before departure to choose Tengchong, which brought me such an unexpected surprise. Coming to Dali has made up for a 20-year regret. Today, the snow on Cangshan Mountain still arrives on time, and the moonlight over Erhai Lake still fills fishermen's dreams. However, the (Datura) flowers of Shangguan are gone, and Dali's new city has blocked the (cross-hall) wind from Xiaguan. I believe that, like the Ten Scenic Spots of West Lake and the New Ten Scenic Spots, Dali will also have a new version of romance.