Dali Weishan: This ancient city, which does not shy away from death, is full of traces of the past.

Number of days: 1 day
Time: June
Average cost: 150 yuan
With whom: husband and wife
Updated: 2024.08.17

[One-Day Self-Driving Tour Route]

Depart from Dali Ancient Town – Huiming Temple – Weishan Ancient Town (dinner and strolling) – Weishan Pioneer Bookstore – Experience tea drinking at a graveside by Xuanlong Temple (the "small temple") – Enjoy a vegetarian meal at Yuanjue Temple (the "big temple") (originally planned, but didn't actually go) – Return

[Travel Notes]

Acai and I made a spur-of-the-moment trip to Weishan during this year's Dragon Boat Festival holiday. Though it was only a quick one-day trip, I was able to sense the city's rich heritage, etched through time, through its quaint, quiet streets and alleys. The obituary notices on the walls, the elegiac couplets on the gates, and the unique experience of drinking tea at graveside by temples, both large and small, deeply touched me. Their unwavering view of life and death was deeply moving. On our way to Weishan, we passed a famous Taoist mountain called Weibao Mountain. It's said that Weishan's name originated from this mountain, originally known as Menghua, and historically the birthplace of the Nanzhao Kingdom.

Exploring an ancient Ming Dynasty temple on the way

Huiming Zen Temple

The first stop on our Weishan trip was Huiming Zen Temple, which we passed along the way. This temple, hidden deep in the village, was built during the Ming Dynasty. The stone stele in its courtyard, "Huiming Zen Temple Stele," was inscribed during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. Upon entering the temple, the first thing that caught my eye was a tower. On the other side were the Heavenly King Hall, the Main Hall, the Guanyin Hall, and other halls. The Main Hall's main gate was locked, but through the crack, I could glimpse the walls covered with sculptures of deities and Buddhas, but unfortunately, I didn't get to see them. Huiming Zen Temple

Our temple search also encountered a minor incident. Acai and I continued walking back along the temple grounds and stumbled into a residence. Our eyes met those of two dogs. In a flash, a barking chorus erupted, and the dogs bolted towards us. Forced back, we retreated to a doorway, quickly scrambling out and closing the wooden door behind us. This sudden incident dampened our interest in continuing our journey, and since we had limited time for the day, we set off again, heading for Weishan Ancient City. The mottled ancient monuments bear the legacy of the Nanzhao Dynasty. Xinggong Tower

Weishan Ancient City officially began construction during the Ming Dynasty. Within the ancient city, 25 streets and 18 alleys crisscross the city. Strolling through it, you can feel the affection of history everywhere. Many ancient buildings from the Ming and Qing dynasties have survived through the centuries, waiting to be explored today. On a sunny day, I love standing on the streets of the ancient city, gazing out at the distant mountains and the blue sky and white clouds. That afternoon, feeling a little tired after a half-day stroll, we stopped by the West Gate Suspension Bridge to rest. Looking up, I saw the inscription "Second Renovation during the Guangxu and Hongwu Periods of the Qing Dynasty" written under the roof beams. It seemed to remind us that this was a transportation hub built by our ancestors during the Qing Dynasty, and now it has become our place of travel and rest. For a moment, it felt like we had stumbled into a bygone era. Readers quietly read inside the Pioneer Bookstore. The Chongzheng Academy, Weishan's first academy, with a history of over 500 years, has also been preserved and transformed into the Weishan Pioneer Bookstore. The renovation of the academy, with its modern design interwoven with the original ancient architecture, actually gave me a sense of disconnection. However, the bookstore's atmosphere was tranquil and beautiful, with quiet footsteps among travelers and readers perusing books in peace and content, evoking a sense of peace and tranquility. The ancient city is pristine and peaceful, and the hospitality of the Yi people is a heartwarming experience. Upon arrival, we found a noodle shop and sampled the local specialty, "Longevity One Noodle." The hospitable proprietress's singing captivated visitors. The longevity noodle dish, Longevity One Noodle, was a delightful sight. Curious, I ran to the entrance to take a photo while the proprietress prepared the noodles. Seeing me snapping photos, the proprietress, dressed in Yi ethnic attire, enthusiastically offered to sing a song for me to record. "A long, long noodle, a Yi-style treat for you two..." The proprietress's clear and melodious voice captivated passersby, who stopped by to take photos. However, the single noodle that went into the pot, accompanied by the proprietress's beautiful singing, had already spun into several strands by the time it reached my bowl.

A cup of warm yogurt after the meal was also delicious, with its rich milky flavor.

Tea drinkers at graves blur the lines between life and death

Even before setting off, I had heard of Weishan's open-minded outlook on life and death. "Riding a whale to the sky," "The Baowu star sinks"... Walking through the streets of the ancient city, I often saw mourning couplets on the doors of some houses, their faded white, the ink still vividly depicting their magnificent fantasies about death. According to the article "A Brief Discussion on the Phenomenon of Yi Folk Beliefs Emphasizing Taoism Over Buddhism," the core tenets of the Yi people's view of life and death are the "immortality of the soul" and the "return of the soul to the ancestral realm." The Yi believe that all things are subject to birth and death, a natural law that cannot be defied, and therefore must face death with equanimity, "treating death as if returning home." Drinking tea at a grave, a leisurely and carefree experience. Perhaps it is precisely because of this calmness and open-mindedness that the tea tables set up among the tombs near Xuanlong Temple are often visited by people. That day, we also went there, found a tea table nestled against the mountainside, and bought a cup of buckwheat tea and a cup of locust flower tea to relax and unwind. The tea leaves were placed in a covered bowl, accompanied by two teacups and a pot of hot water. We sat by the grave, pouring the water to brew tea and drinking it, quite enjoying ourselves.

The tombs here were different from those I'm used to seeing back home. The mounds weren't the usual hemispherical shapes I'd seen, but rather an irregular shape, forming a prism with the tombstones, which gradually grew larger. Most of the tombstones faced outward from the mountain, like a "telescope" specially built for our ancestors.

Our tea table was right next to one of these tombs. As we sat, sipping tea and gazing out at the scenery beyond, it felt as if what we saw was the very scenery our ancestors had always been gazing at. "Perhaps our ancestors also desired a more lively atmosphere, and the line between life and death has become more blurred because of the tea drinkers." What Ah Cai said echoes my own feelings.

"Small Temple" Xuanlong Temple

This grave-to-grave tea drinking spot is located near Xuanlong Temple, one of Weishan's famous small and large temples. Before leaving, we took a quick stroll inside the temple. I didn't take a close look at the temple's halls or the deities and Buddhas enshrined there. I only remember the profound couplet at the entrance: "The sound of sutras and the chanting of Buddha's name awakens the enchanted from the sea of suffering; the evening drum and morning bell awaken the worldly seekers of fame and fortune."

The small and large temples are the combined names of Xuanlong Temple and Yuanjue Temple. It is said that Xuanlong Temple, known as the "small temple," is larger than Yuanjue Temple, known as the "large temple." The day trip was in a hurry, and because we missed the intersection while driving, we went straight back down the mountain and ended the trip without going to the "Big Temple".