[New Yunnan Notes] Explore the unique ancient charm of Guandu Ancient Town

Number of days: 4 days
Time: February
Updated: 2025.04.04

[New Yunnan Notes] Visit Guandu Ancient Town Explore the Unique Millennium-Old Charm

On February 15th, I embarked on a five-day tour: Guandu Ancient Town, the Yunnan Provincial Museum, Yu Garden, Kunming Grand View Park, Zhu De's Former Residence, and the Lu Han Mansion Yunnan Uprising Memorial Hall.

Early in the morning, I booked a discounted Didi taxi on my phone and set off on my journey. The driver was a handsome young man from Anning, a city near Kunming. He proudly mentioned that Anning was a National Civilized City.

I couldn't help but ask, "Then why did you come to Kunming to drive a taxi?"

He smiled helplessly and said, "There are too few people in Anning. I wouldn't make much money driving a taxi all day."

He was surprised to learn that I was traveling alone.

I explained with a smile: "It's so free to go alone. You can go wherever you want. Even if you're traveling with someone, you have to discuss any last-minute changes to your itinerary with the other person."

After listening to this, he nodded in agreement.

I started chatting again: "I originally wanted to join a tour group to Fuxian Lake. Li Jian's song made Fuxian Lake famous, and the photos online are beautiful!" The handsome guy quickly said: "Oh, so Li Jian sang about Fuxian Lake. Fuxian Lake is more fun to visit in the summer. It's a bit cold now. Besides, the Yunnan tourism market is a bit chaotic. It's not just you foreign tourists who are cheating, but even us locals are not spared. There are scams everywhere."

As we were talking, we arrived at Guandu Ancient Town. The handsome guy reminded me, "You're here too early! Many shops aren't open yet." I shrugged, "No problem, I just like the quiet." Anyone familiar with the Three Kingdoms period knows about the Battle of Guandu, where a small force triumphed over a larger force. However, thousands of kilometers away, in Yunnan, lies a place called Guandu. While not the site of that famous battle, it boasts a rich history and, as one of the birthplaces of ancient Dian culture, exudes a unique charm. Ten years ago, I visited this place and was well aware of the rich historical and cultural heritage of Guandu Ancient Town. Once a major commercial center in the Dianchi Lake region of Yunnan, with a history spanning over 1,000 years, it is not only the cradle of ancient Dian culture but also a renowned ancient ferry crossing and Buddhist sanctuary in central Yunnan.

Guandu, originally known as "Wodong," was a fishing village on the shores of Dianchi Lake, where piles of snail shells piled high. As early as the Tang Dynasty, "Wodong" was a favorite stop for the Nanzhao princes on their visits to Dianchi Lake. During the Dali Kingdom of the Song Dynasty, the Gao family established their government here and built a ferry to Gaoyao, hence the name "Guandu."

Ten years have passed, fleeting like a fleeting moment.

Today, the entire ancient town has been restored, and the magnificent gate archway looks brand new compared to its former glory.

Fortunately, the ancient town still retains a rich historical charm. Buildings resembling Ming and Qing dynasties line the broad pedestrian street, offering a dazzling array of goods, from antiques and rare stones to souvenirs and local delicacies.

Stepping into the ancient town, the festive atmosphere of the Year of the Snake lingered. The unique architectural style instantly caught my eye: the grey tiles, white walls, and overhanging eaves and brackets—every detail bears the marks of time and exudes a sense of history. Strolling slowly along the streets, I could almost hear the bustling hustle and bustle of the past echoing in my ears.

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Food wasn't my primary goal; my priority was to explore the ancient sites.

Turning and looking up, I saw two pagodas standing in front of me. I walked quickly toward them, a familiar feeling welling up in my heart, finally reconnecting with memories from ten years ago.

Miaozhan Temple, known as the "chief of the six temples" in Guandu, was originally located on a part of Dianchi Lake. Due to the mountains of snail shells piled underground, Miaozhan Temple is also known as Luofeng Temple. Originally built in 1290 AD, it collapsed due to flooding and was relocated to its current location in 1325 AD. The pagoda within the temple is the oldest extant sandstone-built, typical Lamaist-style pagoda in China. In the second year of the Tianshun reign of Emperor Yingzong of the Ming Dynasty (1458 AD), Luo Gui, the eunuch in charge of Yunnan, undertook a large-scale expansion of the temple. He built two dense-eaves brick pagodas inside the mountain gate and a Vajra-throne-style stone pagoda on the central axis outside the mountain gate. This "Vajra-throne Pagoda" refers to the Vajra-throne Pagoda, which was built on the site in front of the temple. Among the more than ten existing Vajra Pagodas in my country, the Vajra Pagoda at Miaozhan Temple is the oldest and has the longest history.

The twin pagodas of Miaozhan Temple, known as the East Pagoda and the West Pagoda, stand tall above the square. Built during the Yuan Dynasty, the West Pagoda was destroyed in an earthquake in 1833 (the 13th year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty) and has since been rebuilt, while the East Pagoda remains intact. The East Pagoda is a 13-story, densely eaves, solid brick tower, standing 13.6 meters tall. A golden rooster, commonly known as a golden rooster, stands on either side of its summit, earning it the nickname the Golden Rooster Pagoda. Between the towers, a massive incense burner stands quietly. In front of the towers, an ancient stage provides a haven for locals, where they relax, sunbathe, and chat. Like loyal guardians, the towers bear silent witness to the rise and fall of the ancient town. Their towering presence, against the backdrop of blue sky and white clouds, creates a solemn and awe-inspiring presence.

The Li’s Han Baba shop that I visited ten years ago is still there, and it is worthy of being a truly century-old shop!

Due to its proximity to the border, the ancient town boasts a wealth of Southeast Asian specialty goods, including African drums, Burmese elephant figurines, Thai silver jewelry, and more. There's also a dazzling array of handicraft shops, each exquisite piece embodying local culture and tradition. It's difficult to tell whether they're wholesale products from Yiwu or genuine local handicrafts, but it's likely the former.

The small Guandu Ancient Town cleverly integrates architecture from the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, creating a truly open-air history museum. Walking through ancient temples, through towering memorial archways, and past soaring pagodas, it feels like stepping back through millennia, opening the pages of Yunnan's ancient history book – a truly memorable experience.

Today, the old streets and alleys of Guandu Ancient Town, its blue bricks and rubble, and its courtyard walls built of snail shells and rammed earth, still stand proudly against the wind and rain. Amidst the hustle and bustle, it maintains a tranquility, telling a story of millennia in the bustling city, imbued with a timeless charm. Here, every street and alley, every brick and tile bears the marks of history, vividly showcasing the local town's historical context and cultural atmosphere.

Kunming's Guandu Ancient Town is more than just a tourist attraction; it's a spiritual home where the soul can find rest and solace. Here, time seems to slow down, allowing visitors to fully savor its tranquility and beauty.