Self-driving tour of southeastern Yunnan: Kunming, Puzhehei, Shiping, and Jianshui

Number of days：6 days
Updated: 2025.05.23

Just after the Golden Week in May, I started this off-peak trip to southeastern Yunnan. After discussing my research with my classmates in Kunming, I decisively canceled the Yuanyang Rice Terraces, which were out of season, and added Puzhehei, which is suitable for all seasons.

In Kunming in May, the jacaranda trees were already in full bloom. As soon as I got off the plane and settled in, I took a taxi to Caiyunli in Tiepi Alley. In fact, jacarandas can be seen everywhere in Kunming's expressways, streets and alleys and surrounding cities. The jacarandas in Tiepi Alley may be old, and they are quite spectacular when in full bloom. The streets also have a literary atmosphere, and many cafes have outdoor seats. The aroma of coffee and the blue and purple flower shadows are a perfect match.

Tiepi Lane Intersection

Caiyunli

The next day, after meeting up with Brother Luobo at the airport, we drove straight to Puzhehei. Although the 4-hour journey was tiring, the most satisfying and comfortable thing about this trip was the two days we spent in Puzhehei. We stayed at the Halfsea Villa Lake View B&B in Qianshanwai, near Xianren Cave. The location was fantastic, right next to the scenic area. The balcony faced the lake, and the cool breeze in the mornings and evenings was so relaxing. If it weren't for the mosquitoes at night, I'd have wanted to sleep on the balcony. Because it was off-season, there were only the two of us in the B&B. In fact, there weren't many tourists in Xianren Cave Village, to be more precise. There were no young tourists at all, just groups of retired men and women. I could enjoy the quiet time, and off-peak travel was so beautiful. The balcony of the B&B faces the landscape that looks like a gallery. This is the B&B next door. There is no clear division between the B&Bs, and it seems that the courtyards are shared. We stayed on the second floor of our guesthouse. The vibrant red bougainvillea is the dominant color of Yunnan in May. We found the location of our guesthouse in a photo taken by Jian from Kunming.

Puzhehe is famous for its "karst landforms," "40,000 acres of wild lotus," "lakes connected to peaks," and "isolated peaks dotted throughout." It's a national 5A scenic spot. After listening to the receptionist's introduction and wanting to avoid the sun, we opted for a pleasure boat tour package. We took the morning boat tour, returned for a nap when the sun got particularly hot, and hiked Swan Lake in the afternoon.

Although it is not the lotus blooming season yet, the boat trip through the mountains and waters is already very beautiful, and the water in the scenic area is well protected and very clear.

By June, the lotus will be in full bloom.

It is said that there are many rare varieties of lotus here. This is a water lily that can't wait to bloom early. Look, the water is so clear.

Qinglongshan Pier

What a beautiful landscape painting

After lunch break, I went hiking and walked around the Swan Lake Scenic Area. I easily completed today's 20,000 steps.

Does the wetland here feel like the Wizard of Oz?

Well, the Swan Lake Scenic Area still has to have a group of swans.

After the hike, we took a sightseeing bus back to Xianren Cave Village. Ever since I saw Puzhehei Village on the opposite bank from a distance at Qinglongshan Wharf (just an ordinary village, big, but the buildings are nothing special), I once again felt that the Xianren Cave B&B recommended by my classmates was very good.

Plank roads and B&Bs

Yi style? Just call it Southern Yunnan folk houses

Pottery pots, wooden lamps, stone pieces, and bright and colorful flowers

A B&B by the Plank Road

A restaurant with a view of the sunset brought our trip to Puzhehei to a perfect end. After relaxing on the balcony, enjoying the gentle breeze, we arrived at the "Sunset Light Lakeside Restaurant" at 7 pm. The benefits of traveling in the off-season were once again highlighted. We easily got the best seat by the water and watched the sun set in its entirety. The scenery lived up to the expectations, the food was delicious, and the service was just right.

Dinner at sunset

My classmates also commented on my travel plan: Shiping is well worth a visit, so we decided to go to Shiping first and then Jianshui. However, due to time constraints, we only spent one night and one morning in Shiping. Walking slowly through the ancient town, I realized there wasn't much commercialization. The old houses and shops on the corners, dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, were filled to the brim with daily necessities, clearly shops frequented by locals. They were simple and unpretentious, without any fancy decorations for tourists.

The Dragon Gate of Shiping Confucian Temple

Shiping has valued education and literature since the Yuan Dynasty, and during the Ming and Qing dynasties, numerous Jinshi (literary jinshi) and Juren (literary juren) emerged. My homestay is adjacent to the Shiping Confucian Temple, and the local market, held every tenth day of the month, happened to be on that morning. Outside the temple walls, farmers displayed various wild herbs. Going around the walls, you'll find the tranquil temple.

This dragon gate is so beautiful, with graceful eaves and angled corners. The stacked brackets and the perfect architectural scale create an exquisite beauty.

During the Republic of China period, it was used as a primary school classroom. The children back then were so lucky to study in such a beautiful building.

I have to talk about Shiping tofu. That evening, I found a restaurant with a high score on Dianping.com. There were still some tourists there. They had free freshly grilled Shiping tofu at the entrance, and free soy milk inside. The grilled tofu was a bit crowded, so after grabbing two cups of soy milk, we went up to the third-floor rooftop to eat. We ordered fried tofu, which was very tough. How could this be Shiping tofu? Later, my classmates said that grilled tofu was the one you couldn't miss. After returning home, I bought a box of Shiping tofu from PuPu and lightly fried it. Wow, it was indeed bursting with juice. The taste and texture were truly amazing.

I went home to make up for my impression of Shiping tofu.

So, on the way back to Kunming, I stopped by Jianshui Ancient Town. I circled halfway around the high city wall and headed straight for Zhu Family Garden. Maybe it was the off-season, so there weren't many people around. The ancient town felt like a natural connection with the modern streets outside. Inside, there are restaurants, teahouses, shops, and B&Bs, allowing you to leisurely explore its unique features and highlights.

Restaurants and B&Bs in the Ancient City

The Zhu Family Garden, a wealthy family, was like a maze. I spent over an hour exploring it. Great undertakings must be built on rules. Finally, we learned about the family motto and encouraged each other.

The family thrives because of rules.

This trip to southeastern Yunnan is over. Returning to Kunming, I passed by Fuxian Lake without stopping. This is not a place to check in by passing by, it should be worth staying for 2 nights. This is my fourth time in Yunnan. There is also western Yunnan with a relatively low altitude. I hope to be able to go there soon.