Nanning trip report, part 1

Just back from 3 days and nights in Nanning. Why Nanning? It’s somewhere neither my companion nor I had been before, it’s within 3 hours of Hong Kong by high speed rail, and is Not Too Cold in winter.

Nanning feels kind of like a boy wearing his father’s clothes and shoes - he hasn’t yet grown into them, but hopes he will one day - and this despite already having a population of 8+ million. It’s a very spread out city with 5 subway lines, an interesting assortment of regular city buses and routes, and a Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system. By Chinese standards, these are not well integrated and we found ourselves walking for 20 minutes or more to a “connecting” service a couple of times. Baidu and Gaode (http://amap.com) directions - at least for public transport - are patchy. Applemaps doesn’t seem to know anywhere in the city apart from the two main train stations. As far as payment is concerned, cash is accepted for all forms of public transport (including taxis). BRT and MRT also accept Alipay, regular city buses do not accept Alipay. Hong Kong’s T.Union series Octopus cards are accepted for the MRT and city buses but not BRT. Taxis accept Wechat but not Alipay. If you are not confused yet, I shall try harder next time!

We stayed at Hanting Chaoyang Square, which is a shiny new 3* hotel that confusingly shares a building and elevators with 2 other hotels. It’s excellent value for money.

Chaoyang Square itself is *the* centre of the city and a hive of activity from early until late - people dancing, singing various kinds of Chinese opera (on high volume), playing cards and Chinese chess, and generally wheeling and dealing (I didn’t want to ask any questions). A great place for people watching though I would have found earplugs helpful!

We walked down to the Three Streets Two Alleys, a touristically restored historic neighbourhood which is great for photo opportunities and foods from all over China. I loved it during the afternoon and we enjoyed a traditional Yao minority dinner (loved the lemon duck, the oil tea not so much). Heading back to the hotel in the evening, the crowds and noise levels had really ramped up. Our way also led us through the main pedestrian street, which was very much the fashion street for the young and hip. Also VERY noisy.

I have other stuff I need to do now, so will write Part 2 tomorrow.

Nanning is an interesting city to visit, especially for travelers seeking a less tourist-heavy destination with convenient access from Hong Kong. The city is about three hours away by high-speed rail, making it a practical short-trip option. One striking aspect of Nanning is its size and urban spread. With over 8 million people, the city feels ambitious yet not fully developed in terms of infrastructure integration, particularly regarding public transportation.

1. Transportation

  • The city has 5 subway lines, regular buses, and a Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system.
  • Integration between these systems is limited, sometimes requiring long walks (20+ minutes) to connect between services.
  • Navigation apps like Baidu and Gaode provide patchy guidance for public transport, while Apple Maps only recognizes major train stations.
  • Payment options vary: cash is widely accepted; Alipay works for MRT and BRT but not all buses; WeChat works for taxis, while Octopus cards from Hong Kong can be used on MRT and some buses.

2. Accommodation

  • The Hanting Chaoyang Square is a recommended stay, a modern 3-star hotel sharing its building with two other hotels.
  • It is excellent value for money and conveniently located in the city center.

3. Attractions and City Life

  • Chaoyang Square serves as the lively heart of the city, buzzing with people dancing, singing Chinese opera, playing games, and socializing from early morning to late evening. It’s ideal for people-watching but can be very noisy.
  • The Three Streets Two Alleys area is a restored historic neighborhood, perfect for photography and sampling traditional foods. The Yao minority cuisine here is recommended, particularly the lemon duck.
  • The main pedestrian street is a vibrant shopping area for the younger crowd, though it also contributes to high noise levels in the evening.

Overall, Nanning offers a mix of urban exploration, local culture, and culinary experiences. It is lively, sometimes chaotic, but rewarding for those looking to experience a city that is still growing into its potential. For travelers planning a short 3-day trip, staying near Chaoyang Square provides both convenience and access to the best of what the city offers.


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