Continuing the Millennium Canal Cultural Heritage, Seeking the Rebirth of Tongzhou's Ancient Charm

Number of days: 2 days
Time: July
Average cost: 1,000 yuan
With whom: and friends
Tour kinds: Food, Self-driving, Culture, Free travel, Weekend tour
Updated: 2022.07.29

When you think of Tongzhou, you might first think of the rising urban sub-center. Tongzhou is the northern starting point of the Grand Canal. It has both an ancient canal port and a modern Universal Studios, with a history spanning thousands of years and a collision of ancient and modern times. The canal is the soul of Tongzhou, carrying on a rich history and civilization. Five rivers converge here: the Wenyu River, Xiaozhong River, Tonghui River, Beiyun River, and Yunchaojian River. Numerous remnants of canal culture remain, including the Grand Canal, Yongji Canal, Tonghui River, and Empress Xiao's grain transport canal, along with many other ancient canal routes. Stories of the canal's transportation are still widely recounted. Travel isn't just about journeying; beautiful poetry and scenery can be discovered even within your own city. Let's embark on a two-day, one-night trip to Tongzhou, following the historical threads of the Grand Canal. Day 1: The Rending Light Tower in Beijing's Grand Canal Scenic Area. "A tower's shadow identifies Tongzhou." The Rending Light Tower in the north area of the Beijing Grand Canal Scenic Area was undoubtedly the most recognizable symbol of Tongzhou in its day. Built during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, this building, known as the Rending Light Buddha Relic Pagoda, boasts a rich history. The brick and wood structure, thirteen stories high, rests on a lotus pedestal. Wind chimes sway, and the exterior walls are adorned with exquisitely carved Buddha statues. The scenic area combines the beauty of Jiangnan with the grandeur of northern China, with a captivating landscape of water, rocks, flowers, and trees. Lush vegetation adorns the lake, and lotus flowers bloom in the summer. From this spot, the ancient pagoda, pavilions, waterside terraces, and lantern towers create a breathtaking spectacle. An elm tree, known as the "Tower Elm," grew for centuries on the thirteenth floor of the Rending Lighthouse. It was later transplanted to the lakeside. Today, it boasts lush new branches and verdant leaves. The scenic area also boasts numerous ancient buildings, including the tomb of Li Zhuowu, a prominent Ming Dynasty scholar.

Thousand Lotuses and Dew-covered Bridge

Today, the area around the canal has become a relaxing and leisurely scenic spot of the Beijing Grand Canal. The scenery is picturesque, with willows lining the waterside. You can take a stroll along the river or take a quaint pleasure boat on the canal to take in the beautiful scenery of the former canal transport dock.

Many bridges span the canal. The newly popular Qianhe Xielu Bridge has a unique shape, with graceful white lines and a cool and aesthetically pleasing ruffle design. It attracts many young people who check in every day. Tongzhou Museum

Tongzhou, the northernmost point of the Grand Canal, has long been a major waterway transportation hub and a treasure trove of cultural heritage. If you're looking for a systematic understanding of Tongzhou's history, the Tongzhou Museum is a must-see.

The museum, located on the south side of Xinhua Street, is a well-preserved two-courtyard quadrangle. Surrounded by high-rise buildings, walking up the white marble steps into the courtyard, you will find it painted and colorful, with an antique charm. Flowers are in full bloom in the courtyard, making it pleasant all year round.

Several exhibition halls showcase the long history of Tongzhou in chronological order, using a large number of real objects and materials. In particular, the history of water transport, which began in the Qin and Han dynasties and flourished in the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, allows us to fully understand the splendor of canal civilization. Although the exhibition area is small, the exhibits are very rich, gathering a large number of precious cultural relics from Tongzhou and the surrounding areas of the Grand Canal, ranging from the well-preserved Tongzhou Chronicles, to the Tang Dynasty unglazed white porcelain carved ewer, and the exquisitely crafted Liao Dynasty green-glazed square pottery vase, the museum's treasure. Combined with modern sound, light and electricity technology, each cultural relic records the rich history of Tongzhou and showcases the diligence and wisdom of the people.

Xiaolou Restaurant

At noon, I visited the Tongzhou Xiaolou Restaurant. With a century of history, it's one of the Tongzhou residents' favorite time-honored establishments.

Like the locals, I ordered their signature grilled catfish. Crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with a rich sauce, it felt like I was reliving life along the canal a century ago.

Zhangjiawan

Driving to Zhangjiawan in the afternoon, Zhangjiawan is not very eye-catching now, but when we look back at the history of the Grand Canal, from the rise of canal transportation in the Yuan Dynasty to its withdrawal from the historical stage in the early 20th century, the small Zhangjiawan was the largest wharf of the Grand Canal at that time, with many merchants gathering and famous all over the world. According to research, a small street in Zhangjiawan Ancient City is the prototype of Shili Street and Huazhi Lane in Dream of the Red Chamber. Cao Xueqin, the author of Dream of the Red Chamber, once opened a pawnshop here. To commemorate this great writer, a statue of Cao Xueqin was erected on the bank of Empress Xiao River at the northern end of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal for future generations to admire.

Only a short section of the ancient city wall is preserved in Zhangjiawan Ancient City. The south gate of the ancient city stands alone by the river, and a stone bridge spans the river, connecting to the south gate. The mottled stone slabs of the bridge bear witness to the passage of time, while dozens of vividly carved stone lions are exquisitely carved. Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty named this small bridge Tongyun Bridge, and locals call it Empress Dowager Xiao Bridge. Although it is now deserted, save for children playing on it, who would have imagined that ships from the south would once stop here, demonstrating its prosperity.

Songzhuang B&B

Tongzhou has many B&Bs whose names alone are so appealing that they call to mind - "Flowers in the Fields", "Courtyard on the Canal", "Towards the North", "Moonlight over the Lotus Pond", "Qingyun Courtyard"... Life on both sides of the canal is continuous and has long been included in the "wish list".

We chose to stay in Songzhuang at night, mainly for the convenience of visiting Songzhuang the next day. There are B&Bs of all sizes, all budgets can be catered for. We stayed in a very cost-effective B&B called "Shun 12". It is not large in scale, but the Instagram-style interior and exterior design shows the owner's unique aesthetic taste, and the public areas are particularly beautiful.

Day 2:

Songzhuang

Tongzhou, the northern starting point of the Grand Canal, boasts a rich history and culture, and Songzhuang is considered Tongzhou's "artistic pearl." Often referred to as the "Painters' Village," the Songzhuang Art District is dotted with art studios and exhibition halls. Despite its name, the area is actually quite large, divided into numerous distinct areas.

Since the 1990s, a number of Beijing artists have begun to work and live in Songzhuang. After decades of development, Songzhuang has become like a vast ocean, welcoming painters, sculptors, musicians, and all kinds of people pursuing ideals and art from all corners of the country. Now, it is home to tens of thousands of artists from all over the country and even the world.

Don't miss the exhibitions in Songzhuang. These three popular art museums not only boast rich collections, but also offer photogenic interiors and exteriors.

Songzhuang Art Museum:

The tall red brick building is striking, with a cafe and art shop on the ground floor. Inside, the interplay of white walls and red brick creates a striking effect, creating a photogenic atmosphere. Admission is free. Quan Art Museum: Its official name is the Contemporary Art Archives, and it's right next to the Songzhuang Art Museum. This Mediterranean-style white building exudes an exotic charm.

Tree Art Museum:

With six courtyards, most of which open to the sky above the building, it's also known as the "Paradise Art Museum." The building itself is very photogenic, and taking photos outside is absolutely amazing.

Despite its fame, Songzhuang still retains a quiet and peaceful atmosphere, away from the hustle and bustle, and without the heavy commercial atmosphere. In the evenings, locals gather on the streets to enjoy the cool air and sell their homegrown fruits and vegetables, a truly down-to-earth experience. A variety of artistic shops are scattered throughout the alleys, so wandering around is a good start, and you might find a treasure.

Apart from art, food is what impresses me most about Songzhuang. From Northeastern barbecue to Yunnan mushroom pot, from Australian steak to Japanese sushi, it seems that all the cuisines you have heard of can be found here. From the facade to the environment, it is also quite literary. It seems that dining here has become an artistic enjoyment.

A two-day, one-night trip to Tongzhou, exploring the past and present along the canal, allows you to touch thousand-year-old relics and relive the historical charm, while experiencing the elegance and leisure of modern Tongzhou. Let go of all your worries and spend a relaxing weekend.

If you share a passion and curiosity for history, enjoy exploring ancient legends, and appreciate art, food, and the joys of life, then this itinerary is truly for you. Here's a simple itinerary for reference:

Day 1: Burning Lighthouse - Thousand Lotuses and Dew Bridge and Grand Canal - Tongzhou Museum - Xiaolou Hotel - Zhangjiawan - Tangrenfang

Accommodation in Songzhuang

Day 2: Songzhuang, Songzhuang Art Museum, Tree Art Museum, etc.

Transportation: Public transportation is convenient between Tongzhou's major attractions, and cycling within the city is a unique experience. To save time, we recommend driving.

Tickets: Entrance is free, except for some art museums. Remember to bring your ID.