Self-driving tour along the Yunnan-Guizhou Grand Loop (Part 6)

Number of days：61 days
Time: October
Average cost: 10,000 yuan
With whom: husband and wife
Updated: 2024.06.09

October 30, 2023, Sunday, Day 15 of the Trip: Jiyi Great Rift Valley to Yuanmou County

Actual Itinerary:

Jiyi Great Rift Valley → Yuanmou County, Driving Distance: 132.7 kilometers.

If we had followed our original plan, after Jiyi Great Rift Valley, our next destination would have been Heijing Ancient Town, followed by the Yuanmou Earth Forest. After checking the map, I realized we'd have to backtrack too much, going south and then north, a huge detour. So, we decided to skip Heijing Ancient Town and go directly to Yuanmou instead. Entering Yuanmou County into Baidu Maps, the recommended route is to return to Wuding County along the same route I took yesterday, then take the highway. Having already experienced this route thoroughly on my way to the Great Rift Valley, I naturally didn't want to endure another ordeal, so I decided to take a different route, as shown above. The navigation showed only 133 kilometers, but the required time was nearly six hours, suggesting it would be a difficult route. But then I thought, could it be more difficult than yesterday's route? Unexpectedly, my prediction came true. While the road surface was slightly smoother, it was narrower, with only one lane for most sections. I was terrified of oncoming traffic. Once again, I had to back into a fellow villager's yard to let it pass. The slopes were steeper, and I was mostly in second gear on the uphill climbs, sometimes even first. Going downhill, I often had to lean over to see the road ahead. The turns were more numerous and sharper. Norway's Eagle Road and Troll Road were child's play. Even the 32 and 76 turns in China, which are big enough for trucks, were nothing compared to the road. We traversed six mountains, each winding up and down more than ten kilometers. There were hardly any straight roads longer than 20 meters. It was a constant stream of left and right turns, with countless turns. Some of the tight turns were so difficult to turn that I had to reverse and try again. I had originally planned to go to the Yuanmou Earth Forest, but we arrived in the county town after 4 p.m., so I had to stay overnight.

Scenery along the way

This is an observation deck on the side of the road when we were almost to Yuanmou County. The scenery isn't great, but the deck is well-maintained and has a restroom. These are the only three photos I took today.

October 31, 2023, Monday, Day 16 of the itineraryYuanmou CountyTo Shiyang Town (Dayao County)

Actual itinerary:

Yuanmou County → Yuanmou Earth Forest (Wumao Earth Forest Scenic Area) → Shiyang Ancient Town, driving distance: 151.8 kilometers.

Today we'll visit the Yuanmou Earth Forest.

The Yuanmou Earth Forest, along with the Luliang Colorful Sand Forest and the Lunan Stone Forest, are known as one of the "Three Forests of Yunnan." In fact, there are more than one earth forest landscape in Yuanmou County, such as the Tiger Leaping Beach Earth Forest and the Langbapu Earth Forest. The "Yuanmou Earth Forest" commonly referred to refers to the Tiger Leaping Beach Earth Forest, located west of Luomaole Village, Wumao Township, 32 kilometers northwest of Yuanmou County, Chuxiong Prefecture. Hence, it's also called the "Wumao Earth Forest" and is also referred to as the "Wumao Earth Forest Scenic Area" on Baidu Maps.

Entrance of Wumao Earth Forest Scenic Area

After purchasing tickets at the Tourist Service Center, you need to take a shuttle bus into the scenic area. After arriving at the drop-off point, walk up to the highest observation deck to overlook the entire Earth Forest Scenic Area. The Hutiaotan Earth Forest covers a total area of 6 square kilometers. Within the scenic area, thousands of peaks and ravines crisscross the landscape, creating a desolate and rugged landscape resembling an abandoned castle. Towering earth pillars, reaching over 40 meters high, are scattered across the landscape in various shapes, ranging from castles to screens, curtains, and columns. The pillars range in color from red, yellow, white, and brown, and the inclusions of quartz and agate create a unique brilliance in the sunlight, truly awe-inspiring the wonders of nature. This is a paradise for photographers, creating truly spectacular images. The Yuanmou Earth Forest has also served as a filming location for famous films such as "The Promise" and "A Thousand Miles Alone."

The earth forest is a special kind of water erosion landform.

Loess forests are loose deposits of clay, sand, and gravel from the lacustrine and fluvial phases of the Quaternary System (a geological term referring to a chronostratigraphic unit, meaning a stratum formed by loose deposits of the Quaternary Period of the Cenozoic Era). These deposits are formed in dry climates by the erosion and scouring of seasonal rainwater. Surface water erosion carves these deposits into numerous ravines. In certain strata, the abundance of iron cement forms a hard iron cap after weathering, which mitigates the erosive force of rainwater and protects the underlying clay and gravel layers. Furthermore, the well-developed vertical joints in the sediments maintain steep lateral slopes, forming tower-like columns, typically ranging from 20 to 40 meters in height. Because each column shares a common original depositional surface, its tops often maintain a uniform height, resembling a forest from a distance, hence the name "loes forest."

Loess forests typically occur within basins or valleys. Their formation is influenced by geological tectonic settings, topographical conditions, climate, and the composition and structure of the materials and strata. They are a unique and rare landform. The Yuanmou area in Yunnan is the most typical, but they are also found in Huanglianguan, Xichang, Sichuan; Zhada, Tibet; Tianshui, Gansu; and Zhangye.

Leaving the observation deck, we descended to the valley floor to continue our exploration. It felt like entering the ruins of an ancient castle, with a myriad of lifelike anthropomorphic figures in vivid forms.

Exit the scenic area and proceed to Shiyang Ancient Town for overnight stay.

November 1, 2023, Tuesday, Day 17, Shiyang Town to Weishan County

Shiyang Ancient Town → Xiangyun Ancient Town → Weishan County, driving distance: 162.8 kilometers.

After breakfast, visit Shiyang Ancient Town.

Shiyang, formerly known as Baijing, is located 35 kilometers northwest of Dayao County, Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. It is a town with a long history and profound cultural heritage. Since the Western Han Dynasty, when wells were first dug to extract salt, Shiyang has been a major producer of Yunnan's well salt. Salt production reached its peak in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. Although still conducted in artisanal workshops, annual output reached over nine million jin (approximately 10 million kg). Several provinces in southern Xinjiang and neighboring countries are proud to enjoy this pure, snow-white salt. The influx of merchants and the rotation of officials directly under the "Tizhusi" (Provisional Office) of successive dynasties made Shiyang a sought-after and desirable golden land. This, in turn, brought a multicultural impact to the remote and mountainous Shiyang region. "Schools were established to boost morals, customs regulations were established to facilitate travel, and pagodas and pavilions were built to foster literary traditions." Within a radius of just ten miles, Shiyang hosted five major academies—Lingyuan, Zhanggong, Luluo, Longquan, and Longyin—as well as numerous charity schools and private schools. Here, Central Plains culture and Yi culture collided and blended, while Confucianism, salt culture, Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, and other religious cultures interacted, leaving behind a splendid history, culture, and local customs.

Despite having experienced many historical vicissitudes and natural disasters, it still retains many long-standing historical relics. With its profound cultural heritage, it was named one of the first three historical and cultural towns by the Provincial People's Government in 1995.

Shiyang Confucian Temple

Shiyang Confucian Temple, also known as Shiyang Confucius Temple, was first built in the 37th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty (1609). In the 47th year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1698), Zheng Shan, the governor of the Qing Dynasty, oversaw the restoration and cast a bronze statue of Confucius, which was placed in the Dacheng Hall. The 2.3-meter-tall bronze statue is covered in gold, wears a crown and holds a court tablet, and sits upright, looking solemn yet kind and peaceful. The statue is still well-preserved. The Shiyang Confucian Temple is renowned in central Yunnan for its time-honored architecture and unique craftsmanship.

In the 60th year of the reign of Emperor Kangxi (1721), Kong Shangkun, then the Minister of Education and a self-proclaimed descendant of Confucius, meticulously renovated the temple and built a new shrine for prominent officials, a shrine for local sages, and the Lingxing Gate. In the 13th year of the reign of Emperor Yongzheng (1721), at the initiative of some gentry, the main gate, Kuixing Pavilion, was constructed. After several renovations, the Shiyang Confucian Temple gained a new grandeur and dignified appearance. After Liberation, under the auspices of the cultural authorities, six marble reliefs from the Guangxu period were relocated to the main hall and combined into a single tableau. The tableau, 2.2 meters high and 4.1 meters long, depicts two stories about the apparition of the "Wei Chu Tuzhu" (Lord of the Chu) at Baiyanjing, as well as the story of the loyalty and filial piety of Xi Shangzhen and his wife, local residents, in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties.

Xiangyun Ancient City is the old city of Xiangyun County. Construction began in 1382 AD, the 15th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty. It was overseen by Ming army commander Lai Zhen, governor Feng Cheng, and other officials. Because the Ming army established the Erhai Guard within Xiangyun (then Yunnan County), it was named Erhai Guard City. Later, the Yunnan County seat was relocated from Yunnan Post Station to Erhai Guard, and the county and guard offices were merged. In 1918, when Yunnan County was renamed Xiangyun County, Erhai Guard City was also renamed Xiangyun City. The ancient city is square, with its four streets and eight alleys, resembling a seal. At its center stands the majestic five-story Bell and Drum Tower, its handle. Built in 1386 during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, the tower's lower floors connect to the main streets. The four-story building, with its lower two floors square and its upper two floors hexagonal, boasts a gourd-shaped roof, making it a landmark of auspicious clouds. The Bell and Drum Tower was built at a crossroads, so it has four doorways.

South-facing doorway

North-facing doorway

East-facing doorway

Wenxian Square in front of the north entrance of Weishan Ancient City

Upon arriving in Weishan County, we first found a hotel not far from Weishan Ancient City and took advantage of the light to explore the ancient city.

North Entrance of Weishan Ancient City

Weishan Ancient City is located in the heart of Weishan County. Originally built during the Yuan Dynasty, it was converted into a brick city during the Ming Dynasty, and its appearance remains unchanged today. Weishan, also known as the Nanzhao Ancient City, was the early capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom and a hub for horse caravans along the Tea-Horse Road. Weishan is also one of the areas in Yunnan where the Tusi system persisted for the longest time. Its rich history has nurtured numerous temples and monasteries, which complement the diverse natural landscape. The ancient city's buildings are remarkably well-preserved, and it boasts numerous historical relics with southwestern characteristics, making it a veritable museum of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom.

The North Entrance of Weishan Ancient City——Qunli Gate

Qunli Gate——

One of the landmark buildings in Weishan County, it is not an ancient building. Instead, it was built in 1951. That year, the Yunnan-Tibet Highway was successfully completed, and the migrant workers who participated in the construction returned home with honor after completing their mission. Someone proposed, "We've built roads into Tibet, so we must build roads back home!" This initiative ignited everyone's enthusiasm. With the strong support of people of all ethnic groups along the route, enthusiasm and fighting spirit were high. They worked tirelessly day and night, completing the 60-kilometer road from Xiaguan to Weishan in just 48 days. This fulfilled the nearly century-old dream of over 100,000 people in Weishan, and also ushered in a new era in Yunnan's post-liberation history of self-reliant road construction. The opening of the highway fulfilled the aspirations of generations of Weishan residents and marked a new starting point for Weishan's development. To commemorate the successful completion of the Guanmeng Highway through the efforts of the masses, the Menghua County People's Government built an 11-meter-wide, 7-meter-high archway-style memorial structure, inscribed with the three large characters "Qunli Gate." Qunli Gate has since stood to the north of the ancient city, becoming a landmark of Weishan. Compared to the bustling Dali, Weishan Ancient Town is relatively quiet. Besides the quaint residential buildings, the main attractions are the old buildings within the town, including Gongchen Tower, Xinggong Tower, Beishe School, Dengjue Temple, Weishan Confucian Temple, and Xuanzhu Temple, each with its own unique character.

Located outside the north gate (Gongchen Gate) of Weishan Ancient City, Xu Family Compound was built in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China, covering an area of 1,293.9 square meters. The Xu Family Compound boasts a grand scale and unique style. The main courtyard features a simple and elegant quadrangle-style entrance with five courtyards. Comprising two north and south courtyards, connected by a central round gate, the compound boasts a staggered layout, winding and secluded, offering unique scenery with each step. The courtyard's screen wall boasts sweeping corners, and the main room's beams, flower beams, forks, and porches are intricately carved. The beams of the south and north wing rooms feature simple and elegant carvings of dragons and phoenixes. The entire compound boasts an exquisite layout and beautiful surroundings, remarkably preserving the residential style of the Qing Dynasty. The Xu family, the owners of the house, whose ancestors, including Xu Xiantai and Xu Zhichen, were pioneers of the democratic revolution in Weishan, joined the Tongmenghui and participated in the Xinhai Revolution, the National Protection Movement, the Protection of Law Movement, and the Northern Expedition. Their descendant, Xu Kejia, was one of the earliest Communist Party members in Weishan County. He participated in the Guangzhou Uprising and later served as a member, standing committee member, and secretary-general of the Guangdong Chaonan Special Committee. He died in Shantou in 1928. His sister, Xu Kejun, was the first female Communist Party member in Weishan and a leader of the Yunnan women's movement. Gongchen Tower is the north gate tower of Weishan Ancient City (called Menghua Weicheng in the Ming Dynasty). Its defensive position is the most important among the several towers. "Gongchen" (Gongchen) comes from the "Book of Rites" (Weizheng Pian): "The way of governing is like the North Star, which stays in its place, with all the stars surrounding it." The tower was built in the 23rd year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1390). Originally three stories, it was renovated to two stories during renovations in the 2nd year of the Yongli reign of the Southern Ming Dynasty (1648). The tower is built on a brick wall 47.1 meters long, 26.6 meters wide, and 8.1 meters high, with the city gate archway located below. The tower is a double-eaved, hip-and-gable style building, 25.76 meters wide, 15.7 meters deep, and 16 meters high, supported by 28 large, folding columns. It has four side wings and a perimeter gallery. The building is constructed of coarse materials, with columns at the four corners of the upper eaves. The roof is relatively flat, with short corners and a small rise. The straight ridge gives it a majestic and solid appearance. Battlements are located on the north and south walls. Under the south eaves of the ancient building hangs a large plaque inscribed with the words "Kuixiong Liuzhao." It was inscribed by Kang Xun, the Tongzhi of Menghua, in the 36th year of the Qianlong Emperor's reign in the Qing Dynasty (1771). It recounts the epic story of how the Mengshezhao (Nanzhao) in the early Tang Dynasty, with the Tang Dynasty's assistance, unified the Erhai Lake region after more than 60 years of war, representing the six major tribes of the time. In the 50th year of the Qianlong Emperor's reign in the Qing Dynasty (1785), Huang Dahe, the Tongzhi of Menghua, inscribed and hung a plaque on the north side of the ancient building, "Looking at the Sky from Ten Thousand Miles." From the Ming Dynasty's implementation of the "unified system of natives and officials" in frontier ethnic minority areas to the later "reform of natives and officials," which strengthened the powers of officials, Huang Dahe, an imperial official, was well aware of the underlying principles. The "sky" here refers to the Son of Heaven, representing the imperial court. Huang Dahe was appointed by the emperor to serve in Menghua. Menghua is thousands of miles away, separated from the capital by numerous mountains and rivers. Huang Dahe's heart is with the imperial court, and he will serve the emperor with unwavering loyalty. "Wanli Zhantian" (Ten Thousand Miles Looking Upwards) actually became Huang Dahe's inaugural declaration, conveying the political implication of the feudal dynasty's special management of ethnic minority areas in border areas. The calligraphy on the two plaques is majestic, powerful, and composed in one breath. The preservation of such a tall and majestic Ming Dynasty building is rare in Yunnan and even nationwide. It has become a landmark of the historical and cultural city of Weishan. In 1993, it was designated a cultural relic protection site by the Yunnan Provincial People's Government. Gongchen Gate (South Side) Jinshi Archway

Jinshi Archway was first built in the Ming Dynasty for Chen Yuchen, a Jinshi who achieved the title of Jinshi in the Dingwei year of the Wanli reign (1607) and served as magistrate of Ba County, Chongqing Prefecture, Sichuan Province. The original archway was a three-bay stone archway with bracketed arches. A pair of tall stone lions supported stone pillars at the front and rear of the main hall, each topped with four carved stone lions. It was destroyed in 1958, leaving only a single remnant of the eastern pillar. The existing archway, rebuilt in 2002, is constructed of bluestone. It stands 8 meters high and 11 meters wide, with one high and two low spans. It is flanked by two pairs of 3-meter-high stone lions, each seated on a platform. The south side archway is inscribed with "Flower Sealed Brilliant Phoenix", and the north side archway is inscribed with "Auspicious List Literary Dragon".

According to historical records, during the Ming and Qing dynasties alone, Weishan produced 23 Jinshi (imperial examinations) and 816 civil, military and tribute students.

Xinggong Tower, also known as Wenbi Tower, is located in the center of the ancient city, connecting it in all four directions and forming the central intersection of the east, south, west, and north streets. If the ancient city is likened to a square seal, then Xinggong Tower is the "handle" of this large seal.

Xinggong Tower was first built in 1390, the 23rd year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, but later collapsed. It was restored by Zhu Canying, the Tongzhi of Menghua, in 1732, the 10th year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty. It was destroyed again by war in 1857. The tower, which is now well-preserved, was rebuilt by Ma Guozhong, a senior military officer of Du Wenxiu's uprising army during the Qing Dynasty. An inscription on the roof beam reads, "Built by Ma Guozhong, the Left Military Officer to Suppress Mengcheng, and all the county officials, gentry, and common people."

The Xing Gong Tower is 11 meters high. It is a wooden structure tower with a masonry structure base underneath. It is 18.7 meters long and 6.3 meters high. It is connected on all sides, and the door opening is a coupon top. The tower is a hilltop with double eaves, both 9.7 meters long and wide. It is two stories high. The upper floor has windows on all sides, and there are corridors around the lower floor. Four plaques are hung on the four sides of the corridor. The east side is called "Rui Miao Hua Peak", the south side is "Weixia embraces the crane", the west side is "Yuhuan Guapu", and the north side is "Cang Ying Panlong". The meaning of the four plaques is to describe the surrounding scenery of Weishan Mountain and describe the metaphorical meaning of the scenery. It is worth reading. The eaves of the tower are high, straight, handsome and exquisite, so it is also known as the "Ningxiu Tower". Xing Gong Tower is not only one of the landmark buildings in the famous historical and cultural city of Weishan, but also an important historical monument in the Du Wenxiu Uprising in modern Chinese history. It has high historical value. In 1981, it was announced as a cultural relic protection unit by the Weishan County People's Government.

The dusk is getting darker and the lights are beginning to turn on. Landscape lights are lit in the scenic area, giving the vicissitudes of the ancient city a layer of gorgeous style.