[New Yunnan Notes] Taste Authentic Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles: A Tasteful Adventure Across the Bridge

Number of days: 4 days
Time: February
Updated: 2025.03.16

After a lapse of ten years, I continue my Yunnan travelogue. I haven't traveled far, right here in Kunming.

[New Yunnan Travelogue] Savoring Authentic Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles A Tasting Adventure Across the Bridge

Starting with a food story – how down-to-earth is that?

In the vast world of culinary delights, there are always some unique creations that instantly delight your taste buds. Authentic Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles is one such unforgettable delicacy.

When I first heard the legend of Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles, I was captivated by its romantic and wondrous story. A scholar studied diligently in a small pavilion in the middle of a lake. His wife brought him meals every day, but the journey was long and the food would get cold. One day, she discovered that the thick layer of oil on the chicken broth helped retain heat, so she added rice noodles and other ingredients to it. The scholar raved about it, and thus, Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles was born. Ten years ago, I had Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles in Kunming, but it didn't seem quite authentic. Ten years later, on the morning of February 13, 2025, I was waiting at the airport, watching the sun rise. At noon, I flew to Kunming (my second time there). An acquaintance took me to the 1903 Park restaurant in Shangzuo for authentic Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles. She had asked a colleague to book a table online in advance, as otherwise the wait would have been an hour or two.

I told an acquaintance that Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles originated in Mengzi, and they said, "Yeah, it looks like you've done some research." I told them I'd always wanted to go to Mengzi, but had never made the trip.

We arrived at the 1903 Park branch of "Shangzuo" (the name is a good pun, a double entendre). The restaurant wasn't big, but it was very popular. It was packed inside, and there were two long lines of people waiting for a table outside.

After sitting down, there was a chopstick holder and a bamboo slip on the table, which inscribed the legend of Yunnan Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles. After about 10 minutes of waiting after being seated, the waiter brought a large, compartmentalized plate with various side dishes neatly arranged on each grid: thin slices of raw meat, chicken breast slices, mullet slices, and medium-rare pork kidney slices, tripe slices, and water-soaked squid slices. The red and white stripes, with clear textures, looked like a fine work of art; there were also pea tips, leeks, coriander, chopped green onions, chopped grass sprouts, shredded ginger, magnolia slices, and blanched tofu skin. These juicy vegetables—emerald greens, pink tomatoes, golden bean sprouts—were all juicy and fresh. Two pure white quail eggs also filled the meal, making it incredibly filling and abundant.

The waiter then brought a large bowl of soup and a plate of lightly blanched rice noodles.

When this exquisite cross-bridge rice noodle dish was served, I knew it wasn't just a meal; it was a feast for the eyes and the palate. A large bowl filled with piping hot chicken broth, a layer of golden, translucent chicken fat floating on the surface, like a mirror, reflecting everything around it, exuding a rich, mellow aroma that penetrated my nose and instantly whetted my appetite. Strangely, the broth was boiling hot, but not steaming. Even so, be careful not to touch the large bowl, or you'll get burned.

Following my acquaintance's instructions, I first gently slid the quail egg into the broth, watching it slowly solidify in the boiling broth like a magical process. Then I added slices of raw meat, then chicken, then fish, and other meats. The meat quickly changed color in the broth, transitioning from raw to cooked, then cooked to steaming, its tender texture mouth-watering. Then, various vegetables were added, and in an instant, the broth became a vibrant, vibrant painting. Finally, I added the smooth, chewy rice noodles and sprinkled them with mint leaves. The delicate mint fragrance blended with the rich flavor of the chicken broth, creating a wonderful flavor explosion.

Let's eat! Pick up a handful of rice noodles with chopsticks. Coated in the delicious broth, the noodles are smooth and chewy, melting in your mouth. Every bite reveals the richness and depth of the chicken broth, and the delicious flavor dances on your tongue. The meat is juicy and tender, the vegetables are crisp and refreshing, and the unique fragrance of the mint leaves adds a unique touch to this bowl of rice noodles. It's simply delicious! The flavor is rich and fragrant, with a perfect balance of saltiness and lightness, creating a rich and layered taste that leaves a lasting impression.

Savoring this authentic bowl of cross-bridge rice noodles not only satisfies your taste buds but also offers a profound immersion in traditional culinary culture. Within this small bowl of broth, I sense the wisdom and emotion behind this delicious dish – the legacy of countless people dedicated to their passion for food, and the warmest, most beautiful taste in life.

Cross-bridge rice noodles are a unique snack found in southern Yunnan Province, part of the Dian cuisine tradition. The dish originated in the Mengzi area. An acquaintance told me that if you visit Mengzi, you must try the cross-bridge rice noodles at a restaurant called "Huoshaofang." I took her advice to heart.

In response to my Yunnan Random Notes from 10 years ago, it's not that the cross-bridge rice is bad, but rather that it's authentic. Authentic rice is jaw-droppingly delicious, while inauthentic rice noodles are like regular rice noodles.

By the way, let me talk about another Yunnan specialty: Steamed Pot Chicken. An acquaintance ordered this dish, and I also had it ten years ago. It's said to have been popular in southern Yunnan for over 200 years, and it gets its name from the steaming method used to prepare it. The main ingredient is chicken, and the main cooking method is steaming. The broth is condensed from the steam. This dish has tender chicken pieces and a sweet broth. It has the benefits of nourishing the body, replenishing blood, and strengthening the spleen and appetite.

The steamed chicken in front of me was covered in a layer of oil, and the soup and chicken were golden brown. It was very hot. Because the chicken's flavor is less lost during the steaming process, it basically retains its original flavor and tastes very delicious.