[New Yunnan Notes] Dianyun Grand View Garden: An Encounter with Nature Through Time

Number of days: 4 days
Time: February
Updated: 2025.04.06

[New Yunnan Notes] Dian Yun Daguanyuan: A Time-Traveling Encounter with Nature

South of the colorful clouds, within Kunming, every scene tells a unique story, and Daguan Park is undoubtedly a shining chapter among them. This time, I rushed to this appointment with Daguan Park with great anticipation. The night before, I was mesmerized by the dreamlike lantern festival at Daguan Park, and today I couldn't wait to explore its enchanting daytime scenery. After all, as an iconic attraction in Kunming, it has long planted a seed of curiosity in my heart.

The journey from the museum to the roadside was quite long, but fortunately, a taxi was quietly parked by the roadside, as if it had come specially for me. I quickly got into the car and, without mentioning Daguan Park directly, said, "Going to Yu Garden." The driver, perplexed, confirmed, "Is it the Yu Garden near Daguan Park?" After receiving my affirmative response, the car slowly started and drove towards our destination. While researching my travel plans, I learned about the remarkable history of Yu Garden. It's the private garden of Mr. Yu Enxi, a pioneer of Yunnan's machine-made cigarette industry. This former mayor of Kunming and a master of landscape architecture meticulously designed his residence into a Chinese-style garden with a distinctly Oriental charm. A century ago, Mr. Yu Enxi founded Yunnan's first machine-made cigarette factory, the Asia Tobacco Company. To commemorate his brother Yu Enyang, who died in the Double Ninth Uprising, and numerous other revolutionary heroes, he named the company's first pack of cigarettes "Double Ninth." This was the forerunner of the now-famous "Big Double Ninth" cigarettes. If you're unfamiliar with Mr. Yu Enxi, you've undoubtedly heard of Harlem Yu. This renowned Taiwanese singer is his grandson. In 2001, Harlem Yu returned to Yu Garden with his mother to reconnect with family memories. Today, Yu Garden is managed by Daguan Park and has become part of the scenic area. Perhaps due to road construction, or perhaps because drivers rarely pick up passengers from the Yu Garden direction, the car went past it and had to turn back. The taxi driver undercharged me by 2 yuan for this. I got off the car at the entrance to Yu Garden and entered through a small, unassuming gate. Strangely, there wasn't even a security guard in sight. The garden itself looked rather desolate, the lake a murky gray, a far cry from my imagined grandeur. However, the plaque by the lake, inscribed "Searching for the Deepest Places of Fragrance," caught my eye. It's said to be a calligraphy by Huang Tingjian. The archway's stonework has cracked and rusted with age, yet these very traces bear witness to its vicissitudes, imbuing it with a unique charm.

Standing in Yu Garden, you can see part of Dianchi Lake, and across the lake, you can even see the bustling scene at Daguan Park.

Follow the path along the lake and you will soon reach Daguan Park. Along the way, the Metasequoia trees are golden and stand upright on the roadside, as if they are guards sent by nature; the seagulls are white, making howling sounds when flying, which is a bit noisy, and when resting, they densely cover the entire water surface, like falling snowflakes.

Many compare Daguanlou Park to Kunming's "back garden." Kunming's pleasant, year-round spring-like climate is ideal for both people and migrant birds, who flock here for a winter getaway. Strolling through the park, lush greenery creates a sense of being transported to a verdant world. Walking along winding paths, one encounters a crystal-clear lake, its shimmering waters reflecting the lush trees and red flowers along its banks, creating a picturesque scene. White waterfowl can be seen everywhere, freely foraging and playing in the lake, basking in the sun on the surface and on the covered bridges, as if this were their home.

As I walked, a uniquely shaped building caught my eye. Resembling both a gatehouse and a pavilion, it exudes a classical charm that begs the eye to pause and admire. Passing through it and walking into Jinhuapu, I arrived at the main scenic area of the Grand View Tower. Nestled against the lake, this area boasts a patchwork of Qing Dynasty-style gardens and stunning scenery. Pavilions, towers, rockery and flowing water complement each other, and every step brings a new scene. The view keeps changing with the different landscapes. Sometimes the view is broad and refreshing; sometimes the winding paths lead to secluded places, full of the fun of exploration, making people forget the fatigue of the journey. The plum bonsai on both sides are unique in shape and the flowers are in full bloom. Many photography enthusiasts keep taking pictures of the plum blossoms.

Not far away, you'll see the park's most famous building: the Grand View Tower. Standing majestically on the lakeshore, it was built in 1828. While not as famous as the four other towers, such as the Yellow Crane Tower and the Pavilion of Prince Teng, its proximity to Dianchi Lake affords it unique natural scenery. Climbing the Grand View Tower, one can take in the panoramic view of Dianchi Lake, where the water and sky merge into a boundless expanse, a scene that broadens one's mind. The Grand View Tower is not only a beautiful building but also a cultural treasure trove. Within the tower hang numerous inscriptions and couplets, the most unique and famous of which is the 180-character long couplet written by Sun Ranweng, a humble scholar from Kunming during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty. This couplet, with its neat parallelism and majestic momentum, depicts the magnificent scenery of Dianchi Lake and the historical changes of Yunnan, a work that cannot be failed to excite admiration. Simply reciting it requires considerable effort, earning it the title "the greatest long couplet of all time." The lakeside is crowded with people watching and petting the seagulls, whose numbers rival those at the Haigeng Dam and Haigeng Park. Seagulls swirl and dance over the water, occasionally darting past people's heads, nimbly snatching food from their hands, and then happily flying away, like floating white clouds, drifting back and forth. This picture of harmonious coexistence between humans and animals is so beautiful, it fills one's heart with warmth. A gentle breeze blew, and ripples appeared on the lake, sparkling.

A gentle breeze blew, and ripples appeared on the lake, sparkling. I leaned on the railing, gazing at the distant scenery, and it suddenly struck me as reminiscent of the splendor of West Lake. Perhaps the park's builders truly drew inspiration from the beauty of West Lake when planning it. Standing on the largest stone arch bridge, overlooking the Grand View Tower and the winding Long Causeway, I could truly appreciate the park's grandeur and magnificence. Strolling through the Grand View Garden, one can admire a variety of exquisite architecture. Pavilions, terraces, and towers are arranged in an orderly manner, each imbued with an artistic atmosphere. Some buildings boast soaring eaves, resembling eagles spreading their wings, while others are simple and elegant, imbued with historical charm. Numerous cultural relics and artworks are displayed within these buildings, allowing visitors to experience a rich cultural atmosphere while appreciating the beautiful scenery.

As I left Daguan Park, I looked back at the quaint gate, its soaring eaves, brackets, carved beams, and painted buildings, as if telling of bygone times. My heart was filled with nostalgia. Every blade of grass, every tree, every brick, every tile here carries the weight of history and the vitality of nature.

Like a dazzling pearl, nestled on the shores of Dianchi Lake, Kunming's Grand View Garden radiates a unique radiance. It is not only a scenic spot where natural and cultural landscapes blend seamlessly, but also a place of spiritual solace. It is a vivid history book, a breathtaking painting. Here, you can escape the hustle and bustle of the city, immerse yourself in the embrace of nature, and feel the nourishment of history and culture. Whether traveling with family and friends or strolling alone, you'll have an unforgettable and wonderful time. I think this is the meaning of travel: encountering different scenery and experiencing different stories in different places, nourishing and elevating the soul. Daguan Park is undoubtedly an unforgettable encounter I had in Yunnan.