Visit the Gangta in Yungang Town

Number of days: 1 day
Time: April
Average cost: 20 yuan
With whom: husband and wife
Tour kinds: Free travel, weekend tour
The author went to these places： Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas Beijing Marco Polo Bridge National Library Western Hills Big Bell Temple Yungang Forest Park
Updated: 2022.08.03

After visiting the Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas some time ago, I wrote a travelogue. While writing this, I learned about another Huata tower in Beijing, the Yungang Zhengang Pagoda. So, I took advantage of the weekend to visit it. Zhengang Pagoda is located in Zhangjiafen Village, Changxindian Town, Fengtai District, southwest of Beijing. Both the Zhengang Pagoda and the Marco Polo Bridge, about 10 kilometers away, date back to the Liao and Jin dynasties. The tower and bridge face each other from east to west, but due to the Anti-Japanese War, the Marco Polo Bridge is far more famous than the Zhengang Pagoda.

Zhengang Pagoda

Zhengang Pagoda, facing south, is a nine-story brick structure. It stands 18 meters tall and has an octagonal base with a 24-meter circumference. The flat platform is crowned with double-arched, double-arched, five-ply brackets.

According to legend, the hill on which the Zhengang Pagoda stands is a dragon vein. At one end of the hill lies an opening known as the Dragon's Lair. It is said that whoever dies and is buried there will have his descendants rule the world. Consequently, many wealthy families and feng shui masters have sought the Dragon's Lair, but none have found it. During the Liao and Jin dynasties, folk legends intensified, threatening collapse. One night, a streak of light appeared southwest of Beijing. Imperial officials dispatched to investigate believed it was an ominous sign, a sign of a rogue earth dragon on the slopes of Yungang Mountain. These signs alarmed the emperor, fearing he would lose his throne. He therefore built a temple north of the hill, named Chongshou Temple, and to its south, the Hua Pagoda. A painted tiger talisman was placed beneath the pagoda's base, named Zhengang Pagoda, invoking Buddha's blessing to ward off evil. Hence the saying, "The pagoda wards off evil dragons, and long live peace." The Zhengang Pagoda's name and location suggest it was built to guard the hill, suppress evil, and protect the imperial empire. The pagoda, situated on the north-south slopes of Yungang Mountain, twists and turns like a vicious earth dragon. The massive pagoda, like a sword piercing the slopes, subdued the dragon. The base is low and sturdy, octagonal. Atop the flat platform are double-arched, five-tiered bracket sets, one on each side. The architrave walls are decorated with exquisite, ancient reliefs depicting potted flowers and animal heads. The northwest side also features reliefs of two warriors, two civil officials, and a Garuda. The tower resembles an octagonal pavilion, with short eaves, bracket sets, and hanging animals. A column stands at each corner. Reliefs of hidden diamond-shaped lattice doors and mullioned windows are carved on each of the eight sides. The upper part of the pagoda features a Sumeru pedestal, upon which are densely staggered niches, gradually converging inward. From the second tier upwards, each niche houses a Buddha statue, some with hands clasped, others with hands raised, and others with one hand extended, their expressions solemn and lifelike. Above this is a pagoda finial bearing a jewel, supported by a Sumeru pedestal.

Zhengang Pagoda Dougong

The upper part of the pagoda features a Sumeru pedestal, upon which are densely staggered niches, gradually converging inward, forming a roughly prismatic, 13-tiered tier. Each tier contains 18 niches, each housing a stone Buddha statue.

Zhengang Pagoda Buddhist shrine

A stone Buddha statue inside the Zhengang Pagoda Buddhist shrine.

Zhengang Pagoda’s pagoda top

Zhengang Pagoda’s diamond-patterned lattice gate

Zhengang Pagoda relief sculpture

In the square in front of the pagoda, nearby villagers exercised with whips.

Yungang Forest Park Archway

Overall, the Zhengang Pagoda isn't as exquisitely built as the Hua Pagoda at Wanfo Hall, but with only two such ancient pagodas remaining in Beijing, it's worth cherishing. Yungang Forest Park is about two kilometers away, making it a great weekend getaway.