Day 1: Zhuhai - Tianjin
In late October, my partner and I set off on a trip north, planning to visit Tianjin, Beijing, Shanxi, and Yinchuan, Ningxia. Zhuhai has direct flights to Tianjin, so we drove to the airport early in the morning to catch our early flight, which took about three hours. We arrived at Tianjin Airport right around noon.
The airport driver was waiting for us, and it was around 1:00 PM when we took me to our accommodations for the next few days—the Xinda Plaza Hotel Apartments. The hotel is perfectly located, right on the Haihe River. Both the living room and bedroom offer views of the river and the skyscrapers on both sides. After checking into our room and dropping off our luggage, we headed downstairs to the adjacent food court for lunch. After a quick lunch, we walked across the street to the Fifth Avenue Tourist Area, where a guide map and information about the area is available. After taking our photos, we strolled along the route shown in the photo, admiring the European-style garden-lined buildings lining the streets. Many Qing dynasty officials and prominent figures from the Beiyang government once lived here, each graceful and elegant house telling of the past. It's said there are over 2,000 European-style buildings here. We strolled to the Qing Prince's Mansion and purchased tickets to enter. This was originally the residence of Xiao Dezhang, a famous eunuch in the late Qing Dynasty. It was later purchased by Prince Qing Zaizhen and became his residence in his later years. From the street, you can only see the high walls and gate, and it's hard to imagine what the interior looks like.
Once you enter the gate, you'll discover a unique charm: the beautiful Western-style villa and the Chinese-style rockery garden blend seamlessly. The interior of the Western-style main building appears to have been renovated, but it retains the charm of the period. The central hall is magnificent, surrounded by two-story buildings. A magnificent crystal chandelier hangs from the ceiling, and a veranda surrounds the second floor. The hall can be used as a banquet hall or a ballroom, exuding grandeur and elegance. A side door leads to the garden, where rockery, ponds, and small bridges create a delicate Chinese landscape that presents a unique scene. After your visit, continue walking a short distance along the street to Minyuan Square, a European-style stadium and the centerpiece of the Fifth Avenue. It also houses the tourist center, offering guide maps and video presentations showcasing the various attractions along the Fifth Avenue. The newly renovated Minyuan Square retains the original Minyuan Stadium's original function as a sports and fitness center, while also adding tourism, leisure, cultural and museum exhibitions, and specialty dining options. It's open to the public. Upon entering, you'll find a 400-meter plastic running track and a sunken open-air plaza, where many residents and tourists enjoy leisure and fitness. The former stands have now been converted into rooms, moving outdoor activities indoors. Inside, a cultural and sports museum showcases the history of Minyuan, Wudadao, and Tianjin culture. Across the small plaza outside the main gate is the Dalong Post Office, where many tourists stop by to get their stamps. Our feet were aching from the stroll, so we took a taxi to Jingyuan (Jingyuan) to continue our exploration. Originally named Qianyuan (Qianyuan), Jingyuan was built in 1921 as the private residence of Lu Zongyu, the Beiyang government's minister to Japan. From 1929 to 1931, the last emperor Puyi, his empress Wanrong, and his concubine Wenxiu lived here, renaming it "Jingyuan." The intention was to observe current events and seek restoration. The building, a brick and wood structure, offers a tranquil setting, combining European and Japanese styles. The furnishings and exhibits within the building are meticulously and thoroughly detailed, depicting the end of an old era and the beginning of a new one, a deeply moving experience. We thoroughly explored Jingyuan until closing time, then left. We then visited the original restaurant of Goubuli steamed buns, one of Tianjin's three best delicacies. Our driver told us it was mostly tourists, not locals. I'd been to Tianjin several times and had tasted Goubuli steamed buns before, so I was prepared. But it was my wife's first time, and I didn't want to spoil her, so I decided to accompany her and experience it for herself.
The building is two stories high, with set meals on the first floor and à la carte dishes on the second. Our main purpose was to try the Goubuli steamed buns, not stir-fried dishes, so we ordered the 88 yuan set meal on the first floor, which consisted of a basket of steamed buns, two side dishes, and a bowl of millet porridge. After eating, my wife finally understood why it's called Goubuli steamed buns. They truly live up to their name; they're something no dog would even bother with! They tasted worse than any other buns in southern China, but she also experienced their three key characteristics: fame, high price, and awful taste! But the brand's value lies in the fact that, regardless of the flavor, most tourists visiting Tianjin come here to try them, so business is brisk and visitors flock to the area. It's very close to Binjiangdao Pedestrian Street, perfect for a quick stroll and some food. I saw plenty of food stalls, and the popular Eighteenth Street hemp flowers, one of Tianjin's three specialties, were everywhere. I'm sure several people would share a single hemp flower. Amidst the bustling crowds and dazzling neon lights, the architecture of Quanyechang, a classical European-style building, is simple yet majestic, its golden lights accentuating its grandeur. "Each one should encourage his own business and enjoy his work." Here, "encourage" means "to work hard," though some believe it also means "to encourage." Quanyechang, a place dedicated to encouraging commerce and industry, is one of Tianjin's iconic landmarks. Across the street, there's an old building—Zhejiang Industrial Bank—with a Starbucks sign at the entrance. Stepping inside, you'll discover a perfect fusion of European historical architecture and coffee culture. The former Zhejiang Industrial Bank building, a European-style structure that stood on the banks of the Haihe River for nearly a century, overlooking Tianjin's bustling commercial district, finally welcomed Starbucks amidst the vicissitudes of history and times.
This café has been meticulously restored, preserving the original appearance and interior structure of this historic building. A metal "large copper coin" sculpture sits on the ground at the entrance, attracting many tourists.
This café is not only a coffee shop but also houses a tea bar and a wine bar. The interior design seamlessly blends in with the historic building, and the bar counter utilizes the curved structure of a former bank counter. In the evening, a waiter demonstrated how to brew several different types of coffee and invited us to sit at the bar for a complimentary tasting. On the second floor, there's a fascinating exhibition of historical photos of the historic building, along with text and images on coffee culture. The second-floor terrace offers a wonderful opportunity to savor a cup of coffee.
You can also overlook the dazzling neon lights of Binjiangdao Commercial Street, and even take in the panoramic view of Tianjin Quanyechang across the street. The night view is picturesque!
Reluctant to leave, we ordered a cup of coffee and three cups of freshly brewed coffee beer of different flavors.
We spent a long while here before reluctantly returning to our hotel apartment.
Day 2: Ancient Culture Street – Italian Style Street
The morning was bright and sunny. After breakfast at the food court downstairs, we took a taxi to visit Tianjin Ancient Culture Street. This is Tianjin's most famous concentration of time-honored shops and handicrafts, many of which are time-honored Tianjin brands and imbued with a rich local flavor. You'll find Yangliuqing New Year paintings, clay figurine artist Zhang's, Weiji kites, and many other handicrafts here. You can also try local specialties like Nut Zhang, Candy Zhang, and Bean Curd Zhang. Visit "Clay Figurine Zhang" and admire the lifelike painted clay sculptures. At the entrance to Ancient Culture Street is a shop called Erduoyan Fried Cake, one of Tianjin's three specialties. We tried it, and it was indeed delicious, much better than Goubuli steamed buns. Located in the heart of Ancient Culture Street, Tianhou Temple is also the core of the ancient cultural street. It is dedicated to the Goddess of Heaven, who blesses safe voyages at sea and is said to have a history of over 600 years. It faces east and, from east to west, consists of the opera house, flagpole, mountain gate, memorial archway, front hall, main hall, Phoenix Tail Hall, Sutra Library, Qisheng Temple, as well as the Bell and Drum Tower, Zhangxian Pavilion and four auxiliary halls. It is the earliest existing ancient architectural complex in Tianjin.
Today, Tianhou Temple has become the Tianjin Folk Museum. In addition to preserving the restored exhibits of Tianhou Temple, the museum also has displays based on Tianjin's folk customs and practices, systematically introducing customs such as canal transportation, marriage and childbirth, commerce, folk life, folk art and folk beliefs.
Many visitors happily compare their birth years in the Tai Sui Hall to determine which Tai Sui they are.
Two tall wooden flagpoles stand in the Tianhou Temple square. These have been repaired, and the old flagpoles have been preserved as cultural relics within the temple grounds. The theater, also known as the "Old Theater of Tianjin," offers performances of crosstalk and magic tricks. Dashizi Hutong is the former residence of Yan Fu, a modern thinker and educator. While the original house no longer exists, a bronze statue of Yan Fu now stands on the site. Seeing the sign leading to the Jade Emperor Pavilion, we enthusiastically visited it. Located on the west bank of the Haihe River, it was built during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1368 AD), making it over 600 years old and one of Tianjin's oldest surviving structures. Even today, the "Thousand Years Belt" can still be clearly seen on its beams, clearly recording the dates of its renovations by successive dynasties.
The Jade Emperor Pavilion was once the largest Taoist temple in Tianjin. Its principal deity is the Jade Emperor, whose status in the Taoist pantheon is second only to the Three Pure Ones. However, in modern times, the Jade Emperor Pavilion suffered severe damage due to imperialist aggression.
The Qingxu Pavilion, the only remaining Ming Dynasty structure within the Jade Emperor Pavilion complex, remains. Before we knew it, it was almost noon, so we found a crowded local restaurant nearby for lunch. We then stopped by a bridge near the restaurant to admire the Sancha River Estuary and the Tianjin Eye Ferris Wheel. We crossed the bridge and strolled along the east bank of the Haihe River to the Italian-style district, home to over 200 elegant Mediterranean-style buildings. The numerous celebrity residences and film and television locations also added to the excitement of the trip. We passed by a Catholic church that looked rather quaint, and I guessed it must be quite old.
Soon after, we arrived at the Li Shutong Memorial Hall. Li Shutong was the famous "Master Hongyi." His former residence is a large mansion consisting of four quadrangles built during the Qing Dynasty.
The ground floor is in the shape of a field, with a veranda and a small garden within. The interior furnishings are exquisite, and the environment is elegant. Within the courtyard lies a Western-style study, named "Yi Garden," which was built by Li Shutong in 1910 upon his return to his hometown after completing his studies in Japan, as a gesture of his ambition. The courtyard is connected by gardens and corridors, and the interior furnishings are exquisite.
There are some wax figures showing scenes of life at that time, and the overall environment is elegant and pleasant.
After the tour, we saw a number of shared bicycles on the street outside the entrance, so we rode to Liang Qichao's Former Residence, which mainly consists of Mr. Liang Qichao's former residence and his study, "Yinbingshi". The front building of the former residence is the main structure, with a basement. The first and second floors each contain nine rooms. The building is divided into two sections. The eastern section was used exclusively by the Liang family, housing a small study, a living room, and a sitting room. The western section served as family housing. The rear building served as an ancillary structure, housing a kitchen, boiler room, storage, and servants' quarters. The front and back buildings are connected by corridors and overpasses. The entire complex is quite elaborate, with a garden, garage, and message room. The Yinbingshi Study, built alongside the residence, is a light gray, two-story Western-style building. Three small arched halls line the front of the building, and stone steps flank the entrance. In the center lies a reservoir with a carved stone beast, its mouth constantly spouting water. The center of the first floor is the main hall. Surrounding the hall are five rooms, one of which is a utility room, which are used as study rooms and a library. The northwest corner of the second floor also houses a main hall, while the southeast corner has several rooms that are primarily used as bedrooms or a library. In his later years, Liang Qichao resided here and worked on his writings. Designed by Italian architect Baronio, the Ice Drinking Room features a courtyard-style veranda with an enclosed canopy. Its unique architectural form features a central hall that actually serves as the canopy for the courtyard, rising above the roof and inlaid with stained glass. The exhibition rooms in the former residence recreate the Liang family's life and work, showcasing Liang Qichao's letters, books, historical documents, and photographs of his activities.
We continued cycling around the Italian-style area, looking at the red-roofed Italian-style buildings and European sculptures. We came to the pedestrian area and strolled to Marco Polo Square, which is one of the landmark buildings in the scenic area. On the central Corinthian stone column stands the goddess of peace holding an olive branch. In addition to Li Shutong and Liang Qichao, the scenic area also has many former residences of famous people. The former residence of warlord Cao Kun is now a commodity exchange; the former residence of Yuan Shikai and Feng Guozhang have been converted into hotels; there are also the former residences of Cao Yu and Zhang Tingye.
Not far from the square is an exhibition hall introducing Tianjin's history and future urban planning. We had neither the energy nor the desire to go inside. The Western restaurants and coffee shops on both sides of the pedestrian street were bustling with people even in broad daylight. I took a taxi to Central Park and continued my stroll. I noticed a crowd of people gathered for photos, so I wandered over to join in the fun. A beautiful ceramic house appeared before my eyes. This is the "Porcelain House." I entered the visitor center and read about the wall surrounding the Porcelain House, which is made of hundreds of ancient porcelain vases from the Republican and late Qing dynasties. It's called the Peace Wall. On the roof, a giant dragon, made of ancient porcelain tiles, coiled around the word "China," and behind it stood a model of a Bird's Nest made of broken porcelain pieces. It was getting late, the tickets were quite expensive, and my wife wasn't keen on climbing the stairs. We'd been to Jingdezhen, the Porcelain Capital, many times and were a bit jaded by the art. So, like most tourists, we took some photos and then headed to the nearby Zhang Xueliang's former residence.
Zhang Xueliang's former residence is a magnificent three-story Western-style building. It is white, terraced, and features large terraces on the second and third floors. The red roof is inscribed with the words "Tianjin. Shaoshuai Mansion" in both Chinese and English. Inside, the building reveals the residence where the young marshal once lived.
Back at the hotel apartment, I bought some beer and prepared food at a nearby supermarket. After a quick microwave-safe meal in the room, I enjoyed dinner while gazing at the night view of Tianjin's Haihe River. Day 3: Nankai University - Drum Tower Waking up to the sun, I headed downstairs for breakfast at the food court before hailing a taxi to visit the renowned Nankai University. Coincidentally, it was Nankai University's centennial, and many alumni were back for the event. Nankai University, located southwest of Tianjin's downtown area, is a century-old prestigious institution. Its campus is rather plain, lacking many historic buildings. However, the lakes and trees here are refreshingly beautiful, and the students studying on campus create a rich scholarly atmosphere, creating a tranquil and pleasant atmosphere. We rode shared bikes around the campus and saw that Tianjin University's buildings, separated from Nankai University by a fence, had merged with those of Nankai University, making it almost impossible to tell them apart. Horseshoe Lake on campus is a major attraction, home to vast expanses of lotus flowers that bloom beautifully every summer.
Siyuan Hall, located not far southwest of Horseshoe Lake, is an ancient building on campus. The Romanesque-style architecture at the entrance is very distinctive.
Seeing Nankai University's ancient school bell, I imagine it carries the past and history of Nankai University.
Leave Nankai and take a taxi to Nanshi Food Street, which is just across the street from the hotel.
This is a three-story building with a corridor, with entrances on all four sides. The entrances are as majestic and tall as city gate towers. The first floor here is relatively spacious, imitating the arcade-style building.
The main shops here sell a variety of snacks, such as Guifaxiang Mahua (Fried Dough Twist), Shibajie Mahua (Fried Dough Twist), Erduoyan (Ear-Eye Twist), and Bengdou Zhang (Fried Dough Twist).
In addition to delicious food, this floor also features interesting traditional stalls like those selling painted sugar figurines. The second and third floors are semi-open corridors, connecting each floor, allowing you to stroll past each shop. These two floors are dominated by various restaurants, offering a variety of cuisines, including Sichuan and Shandong cuisine, as well as Tianjin Restaurant and Yaxi Restaurant.
After exiting, we cycled north along the wide avenue and arrived at the Drum Tower, located in the city center. Although it is called the Drum Tower, it is actually a bell tower. The Drum Tower stands three stories high. The base is a square brick platform, wide at the bottom and narrow at the top. It features four arched doorways, providing access to the four main streets. Atop this platform, two stories were built. The first floor is dedicated to Guanyin Bodhisattva, the Queen Mother of Heaven, Guan Yu, and Yue Fei, among others, and houses an exhibition on the history of Tianjin. On the second floor of the Drum Tower, a plaque with the inscription "Sounds Heard in Heaven" hangs outside. Inside the tower hangs a 300-jin iron bell. Measuring 1.4 meters in diameter and 2.3 meters high, and weighing approximately 1,500 kilograms, the bell is known as Tianjin's "King of Bells." Cast from iron, it boasts intricate craftsmanship and a simple, ancient design.
The bell body is entirely embossed in positive relief, and the bell knob is cast in a double-threaded pattern. The scales are clearly visible, revealing the two heads and four legs of the double-threaded bell, connected to the bell body. The other four legs are grasping each other, arching their bodies as if about to roar.
The Drum Tower houses an exhibition hall dedicated to the history of foreign invasions and occupations of Tianjin. The view of Tianjin from the Drum Tower is hazy, perhaps due to the excessive smog index. After lunch at a restaurant along Gulou Street, I wandered around and wanted to explore the adjacent Gege Mansion, but it was closed. Tired of strolling around, I took a taxi back to rest. I was struck by the impressive mechanical clock on Century Clock Square by the Haihe River. Its minute dial, pendulum, and base are all made of metal, gleaming with color. The sun and moon reflected the clock's movement as it moved up and down, a fusion of Eastern and Western elements.
The side of the dial is shaped like a giant pendulum, with a "sun" on top and a "moon" below. The pendulum's S-shape, inspired by the dividing line of a Tai Chi celestial being, symbolizes the alternation of yin and yang, their mutual beginning and end.
For dinner, we chose the Cheeseland Restaurant, which is very close to our hotel apartment. Cheeseland is Tianjin's oldest Western restaurant. Originally founded in 1908 by a German named Cheeselin, Cheeselin was a small restaurant and bakery. Its authentic German cuisine, bread, and pastries attracted customers and flourished. Many celebrities dined here, and it's said that Puyi and Wanrong also dined here frequently during their time in Tianjin. Cheeselin now offers a variety of Western-style restaurants, including a pastry shop on the first floor, Russian cuisine on the second, German cuisine on the third, and French cuisine on the fourth. Because the founder is German, we chose the German restaurant on the third floor. A set of German beer brewing equipment is prominently placed in the central kitchen.
Because the founder is German, we chose the German restaurant on the third floor.
Surrounding the restaurant are dining tables, where you can see the chefs busy preparing Western dishes.
We ordered 2 different flavors of freshly brewed beer, a German sausage platter, and signature beef dishes.
The taste was pretty good, not as bad as some reviews described. It's hard to satisfy everyone.
When we left, my wife bought some snacks to go from the pastry shop on the first floor. The night view was beautiful, and the building next to us was lit up with the words "Long Live the Motherland"!
Day 4: Tianjin - Beijing
After waking up naturally, we headed to Tianjin Station to catch the high-speed train to Beijing South Station. Trains run frequently, and we'd purchased our tickets online in advance. When we arrived at Tianjin Station, there was still some time before our departure time. I had breakfast while waiting for the train. The high-speed train was fast, and it took about half an hour to reach Beijing South Railway Station. I took a taxi and headed straight to the Jingtailong Hotel, where I'd been staying for the past few days. It's located on Zhushikou East Street, right near the south entrance of Qianmen Street. After checking into my room and putting down my luggage, I took a short break before strolling over to the nearby Qianmen Pedestrian Street. The main reason I chose this hotel was for its convenient location for shopping and dining. The sky turned overcast and a light drizzle began, but that didn't stop us from exploring. Qianmen Pedestrian Street stretches approximately 800 meters from the outside of the Zhengyangmen Arrow Tower in the north to Zhushikou East Street in the south. It has been Beijing's most famous commercial street since ancient times.
Today, there are also many time-honored restaurants and shops, as well as snacks from all over the world. This is the best choice for shopping and enjoying delicious food.
The buildings on the street are all antique-style, with archways, old signs, red lanterns, etc. Isn’t this the taste of old Beijing?
Just a short distance from the south entrance of Qianmen Pedestrian Street, you'll find the Qingfeng Steamed Bun Shop. It's quite large, and I ordered a few buns with different fillings. The taste was average, similar to Tianjin's Goubuli, but a bit more cost-effective.
As you reach the middle of the pedestrian street, you'll notice the nearby Dashilan and Xianyukou Hutong areas are bustling with activity, with plenty of street food and pastry shops to satisfy your hunger.
Walking into a side alley of Dashilar, I saw some luzhu (braised pork stew) and bought a bowl to try. The stew tasted pretty good, but the dough was a little hard and needed to be soaked for a while longer.
There are train tracks along the pedestrian street, and there's a small sightseeing train called a dangdang car you can ride, but we only saw one train pass by during our entire afternoon stroll.
The pedestrian street and surrounding alleys are home to many time-honored restaurants such as Quanjude, Bianyifang, Donglaishun, and Liubiju, where you can enjoy traditional delicacies such as roast duck and shabu-shabu mutton. I'm thinking about which restaurants to try these days. In addition to time-honored restaurants, you'll also find time-honored shops and buildings like Ruifengxiang and the Guanmao Cultural Museum. There are also teahouses offering traditional performances like crosstalk and storytelling.
Before we knew it, it was getting dark and we arrived at Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant for dinner. Quanjude is a well-known Chinese time-honored brand. It was founded in 1864 (the third year of Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty) and has achieved great development after several generations of entrepreneurial struggle. I have been to Beijing many times before and have eaten Quanjude Roast Duck many times, but my wife still wants to try it again. When we entered the hall, there were many people queuing up, so we took a number and sat down to wait. While waiting for a table, you can see the oven in the glass room and the chefs busy roasting ducks. The oven door is wide open, revealing a blazing fire. The golden roast ducks make the waiting people salivate. After waiting for almost an hour, it is finally our turn and we sit down at a square table on the second floor. I told the waiter the dishes I had chosen while waiting for my table and placed my order. The duck tasted okay, though a bit pricey. However, watching the chef slicing the freshly roasted duck on a cart next to the table while drinking beer made me quite happy!
Day 5: Forbidden City
The sky was clear today. After having some breakfast in the restaurant next to the hotel lobby, I took a taxi to the Forbidden City. In fact, the walking distance from the hotel to the Forbidden City was less than 3 kilometers, but it took nearly an hour to get to Donghuamen by taxi. It was really "traffic jam"! I bought the tickets online yesterday. The entrance to the Forbidden City is at the Meridian Gate, so I took an electric car from Donghuamen to the outside of the Meridian Gate. It wasn’t far to walk, and the electric car arrived in a few minutes.
The Forbidden City was packed, but the number of visitors allowed was limited, so it didn't feel crowded. There were many groups, and the queues were noisy, but the lines for individual visitors were very short. After taking a few photos outside the Meridian Gate, we soon passed through the gate and entered. To learn more about the Forbidden City, we rented two electronic audio guides, which automatically played explanations as we visited various places. The Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum, served as the imperial palace for the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is one of the largest and most complete ancient wooden architectural complexes in China and even in the world. Covering a vast area, it houses over 70 palaces of various sizes and 9,999 and a half houses. These magnificent buildings can be divided into two major parts: the Outer Court and the Inner Court.
The Qianqing Gate marked the boundary between the two regions. South of the Qianqing Gate was the Outer Court, where the emperor conducted government affairs. North of the Qianqing Gate was the Inner Court, home to the imperial harem and the emperor's family. Walking through the Golden Throne Hall, the Palace of Heavenly Purity, and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, and then admiring the beautiful scenery in the emperor's imperial gardens is a truly refreshing experience.
Entering the Meridian Gate, the square in front of the Gate of Supreme Harmony features five beautifully designed single-arch bridges. These bridges contrast beautifully with the majestic Meridian Gate Tower and the magnificent Hall of Supreme Harmony, creating a captivating sight.
The Hall of Supreme Harmony, commonly known as the "Golden Throne Hall," was the venue for grand ceremonies held by emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties. On the days of grand ceremonies, a massive ceremonial procession stretched from the Hall of Supreme Harmony to the outside of Tiananmen Square.
The Hall of Mental Cultivation is a building shaped like a Chinese character "工" (工), divided into two halls, front and back.
Since the reign of Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty, the emperor's bedroom was moved to the rear hall, while the front hall became the place where the emperor handled daily government affairs and met with ministers. The Palace of Earthly Tranquility is one of the three inner palaces of the Forbidden City in Beijing. During the Ming Dynasty, it served as the empress's bedroom, but during the Qing Dynasty, it was gradually converted into a place for worship. The Hall of Preserving Harmony is a quintessence of traditional Chinese palace architecture and a palace-style structure within the Forbidden City in Beijing.
Every New Year's Eve, the emperor entertained minority nobles and ministers here. Since the late Qianlong period, this place has served as the venue for the "Palace Examination."
The Treasure House, located in the Ningshou Palace area, features a Nine Dragon Wall. The wall's upper section is covered in a yellow glazed tile hip roof, and beneath the eaves are imitation wooden rafters, purlins, and brackets. The walls, decorated in blue and green, feature a background of clouds and water, creating a majestic atmosphere where the water and sky meet. A white marble pedestal rests at the bottom, creating a dignified and solemn atmosphere. To the north of the Ningshou Palace lie the Yangxing Hall, the Leshou Hall, and the Yihexuan. Leshou Hall is the most magnificent of the three. The interior is decorated with nanmu wood, overlaid with precious woods such as red sandalwood and rosewood, and embellished with jade and enamel, creating an elegant and luxurious atmosphere. The center of the north hall features a jade mountain depicting Yu the Great controlling the flood, the largest jade sculpture in the Palace Museum's collection. The walls of the corridor outside the hall are inlaid with stone inscriptions of "Jingshengzhai Calligraphy Collection," featuring Emperor Qianlong's imitations of famous calligraphy works and classic quotations. After becoming the Supreme Emperor, Emperor Qianlong primarily resided here, and Empress Dowager Cixi also stayed here after her 60th birthday. The museum boasts a particularly rich collection of treasures, including Buddhist artifacts, ornaments, daily utensils, and collectibles. These treasures are crafted from precious materials such as gold, silver, jade, emerald, pearls, and various gemstones, and were designed and crafted by renowned craftsmen from around the country.
Exquisite ingenuity and no expense was spared, and its craftsmanship represented the highest level of the time.
The Clock Museum is located in the Fengxian Hall, a hall located to the east of the three inner palaces of the Forbidden City. It was originally built during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty. "Fengxian" means venerating ancestors. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, this was the ancestral temple where emperors worshipped their ancestors. The hall is divided into two levels, front and back, connected by a central hall, forming a dignified "工"-shaped building. The rear hall houses tablets of emperors and empresses from past dynasties. In ancient my country, timekeeping was primarily based on gnomons, sundials, and clepsydras. In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, European mechanical clocks began to be introduced to my country, gradually replacing traditional timepieces. Mechanical clocks were already in widespread use at the Qing court in the 18th century. The museum displays over 200 clocks from both China and abroad, primarily British, though examples from France, Switzerland, and other countries are also on display.
These clocks are characterized by accurate timekeeping, exquisite shapes and brilliant colors, as well as beautiful music, amusing acting skills and various auspicious meanings.
They were deeply loved by the emperor and his empress, and became precious furnishings and decorations in the palace. The Forbidden City is truly enormous, and we were a bit exhausted after visiting the Clock and Watch Museum. We bought some cute stone lion-shaped Forbidden City ice cream to cool off and grab some snacks. Afterwards, we continued our guided tour of the twelve eastern and western palaces, including the Jingren Palace, Chengqian Palace, Zhongcui Palace, Jingyang Palace, Yonghe Palace, and Yanxi Palace. The Six Western Palaces are the Yongshou Palace, Yikun Palace, Chuxiu Palace, Xianfu Palace, Changchun Palace, and Qixiang Palace (Taiji Hall). Within the Yanxi Palace lies the three-story Western-style Water Palace. Surrounded by a pond, it draws water from the Jade Spring Mountain. Also known as the Crystal Palace, the entire structure of the palace is cast iron, including its four columns with coiled dragon patterns. The entire building is constructed primarily of white marble, with minimal brick use. The exterior walls feature carvings, while the interior is covered in white and colorful tiles. Construction was halted due to a lack of treasury funds, and to this day, it remains unfinished. However, its conception is truly moving. Continuing north, we reach the Imperial Garden, located north of the Kunning Palace. This garden has long been a place for the emperor, empress, and concubines to relax and enjoy themselves after meals. Annual palace activities such as climbing mountains and appreciating the moon also took place here.
This area was known as the Palace Back Garden during the Ming Dynasty and was renamed the Imperial Garden during the Qing Dynasty. Construction began in the 18th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty and still retains its basic layout.
The buildings in the garden are symmetrically arranged along a central axis. The central Qin'an Hall houses Taoist deities, and the intertwined cypresses in front of the hall, which intersect above the corridor, are one of the palace's remarkable trees. Representing the four seasons, the Wanchun Pavilion, Fubi Pavilion, Qianqiu Pavilion, and Chengrui Pavilion are paired on either side of the Forbidden City. The Wanchun Pavilion and Qianqiu Hall, facing each other east and west, are known for their unique and exquisite design and are considered the most beautiful pavilions in the Forbidden City. The Imperial Garden is not large, but it is dotted with ancient cypresses, locust trees, and exotic flowers and plants. Also scattered throughout are pavilions, terraces, and crisscrossing stone paths, giving the garden a quaint and tranquil atmosphere while retaining a sense of imperial grandeur. Heading north from the Imperial Garden is Shenwu Gate, the northern gate of the Forbidden City and the exit from the Palace Museum. Known as Xuanwu Gate in the Ming Dynasty, Xuanwu is one of the four ancient mythical beasts. Directionally, the Azure Dragon stands to the left, the White Tiger stands to the right, the Vermilion Bird stands in front, and the Black Tortoise stands behind. Xuanwu represents the north, hence the name "Xuanwu" often given to the northern gates of imperial palaces. During the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed Shenwu Gate to avoid mentioning the name of Emperor Kangxi, Xuanye. The Shenwu Gate tower, built on a city wall over 10 meters high, spans five bays and features a double-eaved hipped roof. A plaque with the words "Shenwu Gate" in Manchu and Chinese characters hangs beneath the eaves of the upper level. Stone railings surround the lower level. The city wall has three arched gates, the central one being openable and closable. A stone plaque inscribed with "The Palace Museum" stands above the north-facing arched gate. From here, you can exit the Forbidden City or continue your visit up the city wall. Across from the tower lies Jingshan Park, which is beautifully illuminated by the setting sun.
What surprised us was that the tower displayed numerous artifacts from the Moscow Kremlin, including the Tsar's finery, military uniforms, ornaments, artifacts, archival documents, and printed materials. Each piece is a treasure trove of art used in the most important court ceremonies held in the Moscow Kremlin from the 18th and 19th centuries. The exhibition recreates the grandeur of Russian court ceremonies, including the entry ceremony, the proclamation, the imperial throne, the coronation ceremony, the sacred rituals, the grand parade, the lavish banquet, and the celebration of the imperial court. From the tower, we walked east along the city wall, taking in the stunning views both inside and outside. At the end, at the corner, we found a corner tower. While seemingly unassuming, it embodies the highest level of traditional Chinese wooden architecture. The interior structure consists of nine beams, eighteen columns, and seventy-two ridges. This complex and ingenious structure demonstrates the exceptional skill of ancient Chinese artisans. Beyond its decorative function, the corner tower, along with the city walls, gatehouses, and moat, served as a defensive structure for the imperial palace. Its high vantage point served as a watchtower, allowing for easy reconnaissance of enemy forces.
The yellow glazed tile roof and gilded dome gleamed in the sunlight, appearing even more solemn and beautiful against the backdrop of blue sky and white clouds.
Continue along the eastern city wall until you reach the Donghuamen Tower before exiting the Forbidden City.
As the sun set, tired but happy, I reluctantly took a taxi back to the hotel, the sparkling waters of Tongzi River welcoming me back. After a short break, we headed to Donglaishun Shabu-shabu on Qianmen Street. This Donglaishun restaurant is located on the second floor of a building in Dashilar. On the first floor, there's a model of an old tram for visitors to admire. The night view of Qianmen Street was stunning, but we didn't have the energy to explore any further, so we took a stroll after lunch and headed back to rest.
Day 6: Prince Gong’s Mansion – Nanluoguxiang – 798 Art District
After a night’s rest, I regained my energy. After breakfast, I took a taxi to visit Prince Gong’s Mansion. Just like the Forbidden City, I bought tickets in advance. After renting two electronic audio guides at the gate, I used my ID card to enter the gate and listened to the explanation while visiting. The Prince Gong Mansion was the largest princely palace of the Qing Dynasty. It served as the residence of the corrupt official Heshen and then Prince Qing Yonglin, and later earned its name after Prince Gong Yixin, who resided there. The Prince Gong Mansion witnessed the Qing Dynasty's rise and fall, leading to the saying, "The Prince Gong Mansion embodies half of the history of the Qing Dynasty." The architectural complex is remarkably well-preserved, comprising over 30 distinct architectural clusters, each meticulously laid out and imposing. It is divided into two parts: the mansion and the garden. The mansion is to the south, the garden to the north, separated by the rear building, known as the "99 and a half rooms."
The palace is composed of multiple quadrangles arranged along a strict axis, divided into three wings: central, eastern, and western. Each wing has three courtyards.
The most important buildings in the central wing are the Yin'an Hall and the Jiale Hall. The green glazed tile roofs of the halls highlight the majesty of the central wing and reflect the prince's status. The main house in the east front yard is Duofuxuan, where Heshen's son Fengshen Yinde later married Emperor Qianlong's youngest daughter, Princess Hexiao of the First Rank, and lived there, temporarily transforming the mansion into a de facto princess residence. The main house in the rear courtyard is Ledaotang, the former residence of Prince Gong Yixin. The courtyards on the west side are smaller and more exquisite, with the main buildings being the Baoguang Room and Xijinzhai. The most impressive of the buildings is the majestic Xijinzhai, whose hall features intricately carved nanmu partitions. Heshen designed the Xijinzhai in the style of the Ningshou Palace in the Forbidden City. The garden, also known as Cuijin Garden, is located north of the mansion. It occupies an area larger than the Imperial Garden of the Forbidden City and boasts 31 ancient buildings.
Prince Gong mobilized hundreds of skilled craftsmen to build the garden.
Upon completion, its grandeur surpassed that of any of the hundreds of imperial palaces in the capital, and it remains the quintessence of Beijing's existing imperial garden art. The Chinese character "福" (Fu) is a running theme throughout the garden, creating a clear theme. The Western-style Gate, the imperially inscribed "福" stele, and the indoor theater are collectively known as the "Three Wonders" of Prince Gong's Mansion. By the time our visit ended, it was already noon, and we quickly took the subway to Nanluoguxiang, just one stop away. Nanluoguxiang, a hutong stretching approximately 800 meters from Guloudong Street in the north to Ping'an Street in the south, is one of Beijing's oldest neighborhoods, boasting nearly 800 years of history. It's home to the largest collection of traditional residential buildings and a well-preserved Yuan Dynasty hutong courtyard. It embodies the essence of old Beijing. There are many literary and artistic specialty shops here, as well as a wide variety of snacks. I found a specialty snack shop and ordered soy milk, fried dough sticks, fried liver, and fried tripe. To be honest, they were not very delicious and were far inferior to the southern snacks. However, it is also nice to take a break while tasting the local specialties.
Turning into the alleys on both sides of the main street, there are fewer tourists. The old houses tell the history of old Beijing. Unfortunately, most of the buildings are occupied by residents, so you can't go inside to visit. You can only walk around outside.
In addition, the Central Academy of Drama is also located here, and you can see the old buildings behind the fence. After shopping, take a taxi from the north exit and head straight to the 798 Art District. Located in northeastern Chaoyang District, this creative park, renovated from old factories, is home to numerous galleries, exhibition halls, and independent art houses.
The buildings are also cutting-edge and stylish, full of design, and there are many unique shops, making it a great place to soak in the artistic atmosphere. The 798 Art District is quite large, measuring approximately one kilometer in length and width. Galleries, exhibition halls, and art centers are housed in renovated factory buildings. The main attraction here is the artistic atmosphere. Visiting exhibitions is the main activity. There are many art exhibitions within the park, most of which are free. There are also some exhibitions that charge a fee, mainly showcasing the works of the artists resident in the park, most of which are cutting-edge and creative. We visited them casually along the way. The streets within the park are dotted with various sculptures, graffiti, and other unique features. Even the public restrooms are creatively designed, making it a great place to take artistic photos. In addition to galleries and art centers, the street is also home to numerous art shops, cafes, and restaurants. The shops sell a variety of unique small artworks, such as painted pottery and fabrics. An afternoon flew by while browsing the exhibitions. In the evening, we took a taxi to Bian Yi Fang in Xianyukou, not far from our hotel, to try some roast duck and experience the difference between it and Quanjude.
The cooking methods of the two are different. Bianyifang roasts the duck in a steam oven, while Quanjude roasts the duck in a hanging oven. The texture and taste of the two roast ducks are a little different. The steam oven duck is baked with the heat from the oven wall. During the baking process, the temperature in the oven is high at first and then low, and it drops naturally. The fire is gentle but not strong, so the surface of the stuffed duck is heated evenly, the oil consumption is small, and the duck breast appears plump and swollen. The roasted duck has a crispy skin and plump meat. The meat is white and tender, the meaty texture is obvious, and the taste is delicious. The hanging oven roast duck has no door, allowing the wood to burn thoroughly and evenly, with intense heat. The duck is then roasted, rendering the fat beneath the skin melted away, resulting in a golden, shiny surface, crispy, and a charred aroma. In short, I think the duck skin at Quanjude is better, while the duck meat at Bianyifang is slightly better. Overall, both are excellent, though personal preference is a matter of taste. We ordered a whole duck and, after a heavy meal, strolled back to the hotel.
Passing by the Liu Laogen Stage and Liu Laogen Restaurant, the lights are gorgeous, and there is a huge root-carved longevity star on the roadside looking happily at the passers-by.
Day Seven: Red Leaves in Xiangshan
The day before, I discussed the departure time with the reserved driver. He told me that there are often traffic jams in Xiangshan during this period, and suggested that we start early, so the driver came to pick us up early in the morning. When we arrived at the intersection into Xiangshan, we saw many police starting to set up roadblocks to prepare for traffic control. Fortunately, we entered Xiangshan Road before the traffic control, arrived at the north gate of Xiangshan Park, and bought a ticket to enter.
Xiangshan Park is located in the western suburbs of Beijing. It is a royal garden with mountain forest characteristics. The park has lush trees and many historical sites hidden in the forest. It is a scenic spot and natural oxygen bar in Beijing.
Every autumn, "Fragrant Mountain's red leaves fill the sky" is the highlight of the scenic spot and is almost a household name in China.
We also came here to enjoy the red leaves of Xiangshan Mountain. The cable car up the mountain had not started running yet, and there were many tourists waiting in line. We strolled around and had breakfast.
The cable car started running soon after, and we lined up to buy tickets to take the cable car up to Xiangshan Mountain and Xianglu Peak.
The establishment of Xiangshan Park has a history of nearly 900 years. As early as the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, the royal family built a separate palace in Xiangshan.
Every summer and autumn, the emperor would come here to hunt and enjoy the cool air.
There are many cultural relics and historic sites in the park, and pavilions and pavilions are scattered among the mountains and forests. "Biyun Temple", a temple integrating the architectural styles of the Ming and Qing dynasties; the only remaining wooden gilded "Five Hundred Arhats" in China;
The palace "Zongjing Jokhang Temple" that welcomes the Sixth Panchen Lama and the quaint courtyard "Jianxinzhai" with Jiangnan characteristics,
The Shuangqing Villa on the southeast slope of Xiangshan Temple are all good places to visit.
In the middle of the mountain, I saw the place where Mr. Mei Lanfang used to play. A huge plum character was carved on the rock, with two small characters Lanfang below.
While walking down the mountain from the east gate, I encountered a large number of tourists pouring into Xiangshan.
The scene is huge and crowded. Fortunately, there are many people entering and relatively few leaving.
We took the Xijiao Line of the Metro at Xiangshan Station to Bagou Station, then got off and transferred to other lines to the Old Summer Palace Heritage Park.
It consists of three areas: Old Summer Palace, Changchun Garden and Qichun Garden.
Because I had gone in to see the marble pillars of the remains of the Old Summer Palace before, my feet were sore from walking in Xiangshan. Seeing that there were no electric cars for transportation in Qichun Garden, I was too lazy to walk, so I took a photo at the west gate of Tsinghua University and took a taxi to leave.
In the car, I heard the driver say that Niujie is a gathering place for Muslims, and the shabu-shabu at the halal restaurant Jubaoyuan there is very good. We asked the driver to take us there directly for lunch. It was almost 1:30 in the afternoon when we arrived. When we got off the bus, we were a little dumbfounded. We saw several long queues. I asked if they were queuing up to buy the beef, mutton and pastries on the first floor.
We also had to take a number and wait for a table when dining, and we probably had to wait for more than 20 tables to be seated. Fortunately, there were stools where we could sit and wait. It was not until nearly three o'clock that we were assigned to a small table on the second floor that the waiter was cleaning. I couldn't wait to place my order, and had the most delicious hot-pot meal in years. Maybe it was because I was so hungry due to the long wait for a table. I ordered too many dishes, including mutton skewers and cake dumplings.
LP bought some pastries on the first floor before going back to the hotel. It was not far from our hotel. It was already evening when we returned to the hotel. I bought some beer in the small supermarket downstairs. I no longer planned to go out in the evening. I just spent the last night of this trip in Beijing with mutton skewers and pastries, drinking beer and watching TV.
Day 8 Beijing - Datong
It is very convenient to take the high-speed rail from Beijing to Datong, but because we wanted to visit the newly built Beijing Daxing Airport, we specially purchased a flight from Daxing Airport to Shanxi Datong this afternoon and slept until we woke up naturally in the morning.
After breakfast, we took a taxi to Daxing Airport. It is more than fifty kilometers away from the hotel, but the road is smooth. It took more than an hour to arrive at Daxing Airport.
After we changed our boarding passes and checked our luggage, we started to look around.
The airport is very large, with subways leading to downtown Beijing and high-speed rails to Xiongan New Area. LP has seen on TV that there is a robot parking service in the underground parking lot of Daxing Airport.
I specially visited the underground parking lot. Unfortunately, because there are few flights at the airport, there are very few cars parking in the parking lot, so the robot parking service is not available for the time being.
Walking to the dining area, I saw many restaurants, including Quanjude, Laoshe Teahouse, etc., and unexpectedly saw a "grandma's house". We have been to grandma's house in Hangzhou many times before and had a good impression.
So I chose this restaurant for lunch, and it was really satisfying. After the meal, we went through security check and entered the terminal. When we found our waiting gate, boarding had already begun.
LP's seat is close to the window. After the plane takes off, you can clearly overlook the Daxing Airport building like a starfish in the air.
The flight was very short. It took about 40 minutes to arrive at Datong Yungang Airport. We took a taxi from the airport to Yungang Jianguo Hotel where we were going to stay for the next few days.
The taxis here don’t even use meters. After negotiating the price with the driver, we got on the bus and headed to the hotel. Fortunately, the price was not too outrageous and the driver’s attitude was also very good. He told us that the most famous hotel in Datong is Fenglin Pavilion in the ancient city. When we arrived at the hotel, the driver gave me a business card before leaving and said that if you need to charter a taxi for the surrounding areas in the past few days, call him one night in advance.
In the evening, we took a taxi to Datong Ancient City for dinner. Fenglinge Pavilion is in the pedestrian area, not far from Yanhua Temple. There are not many pedestrians at night, and the street seems a bit deserted, but Fenglinge Pavilion still needs to get a number and line up to wait for a table.
This is an ancient building with cornices and brackets, carved beams and painted buildings, an internal winding corridor and a strange scene as you move around.
It brings together many styles and styles of ancient Chinese architecture.
We waited for about an hour before it was our turn. We had already chosen the dishes while waiting for a table. The must-eat here is Baihua siomai. The freshly cooked siomai is very beautiful, just like the petals of pear blossoms.
You can see the meat filling through the dough. The skin is thin and the meat is tender. It tastes very delicious and has good color, fragrance and shape. It is known as a famous food in Datong.
The night in the ancient city was a bit cold, and the stars were bright in the night sky. We didn’t linger here too much. We took a taxi directly back to the hotel to rest after the meal.
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