Searching for Childhood Happiness: Revisiting the Summer Palace, September 2022

  • Number of days: 1 day
  • Time: September
  • Average cost: 50 yuan
  • With whom: husband and wife
  • Tour kinds: Photography, Self-driving, Humanities, Free Travel, Hiking, Petty Bourgeoisie
  • Updated: 2025.01.09

Born in the 1960s, during elementary and middle school, the happiest thing of the year was the spring or autumn outing. Back then, we usually went to parks, mostly in the city or suburbs, like the Summer Palace, Beihai Park, and Zhongshan Park. Hearing the news of the park outing would excite us for days. My parents would prepare bread, biscuits, and other goodies in advance. Some families with less financial resources would bring pancakes, or even just sweet potatoes or steamed cornbread. Almost no one brought water, let alone drinks. It seems like there were no drinks back then. Everyone drank tap water, which is called "jueweiguaner" in Beijing dialect. The water in the park seemed quite high-end. There was a tap specifically for tourists. It was the same water, but with a thin, upward-pointing spout. The water was sweet and refreshing, much better than the purified water we drink today.

Back then, children had a lot of things to play with, and they were all outdoors. There were things like playing with darts, skating, smoking traitors, playing with glass balls, shooting cigarette pictures, pulling roots, pushing iron rings, and sticking butt curtains. All day, before and after school, the streets were full of fun, full of fun. But few people went to the park, so school-organized garden tours were particularly attractive to us as children. When we arrived at the park, the children were like a flock of happy birds, chirping non-stop. Although I didn't understand much of the park and didn't know how to appreciate it, the novelty, the joy, and the freedom I felt today are still fondly remembered.

As I grew older, I saw more of the world, my living conditions improved, but I felt less and less happy. I often traveled to other cities, but I rarely went to Beijing parks. Childhood joys are indelible memories. Since travel is strictly prohibited during the pandemic, it's truly wonderful to revisit Beijing's parks, rediscover those joyful childhood memories, and try to make sense of things that were previously vague. The Summer Palace is quite large (3.09 square kilometers) and consists of two main parts: Longevity Hill and Kunming Lake. There's so much to see and do there that if you were to explore thoroughly, you might not be able to see it all in ten days or even half a month. My wife and I spent four days (sometimes half days) exploring the park, mainly for strolling and recreating the feeling of childhood garden visits. On the first day, enter through the Xinjian Palace Gate and walk counterclockwise north along Kunming Lake, passing the Kunlun Stele, Wenchang Pavilion, Zhichun Pavilion, Ouxiang Pavilion, Leshou Palace, Long Corridor, Yunhui Yuyu Archway, Marble Boat, Suyunyan City Gate, Banbi Bridge, Jiehu Bridge, West Causeway, Xiuyi Bridge, Langru Pavilion, and the Bronze Bull. This is a complete counterclockwise circle around Kunming Lake. On the second day, enter through the Xinjian Palace Gate and walk north, passing Wenchang Pavilion, Yulan Hall, Yiyun Pavilion, Renshou Hall, Ziqidonglai City Gate, Xiqu Garden, Tiaoyuan Studio, Yinhui City Gate, Suzhou Street, Yanqing Tower, Marble Boat, Long Corridor, Wenchang Pavilion, Seventeen-Arch Bridge, and Nanhu Island. Return to the Xinjian Palace Gate, completing a complete circle around the foot of Longevity Mountain.

Day 3: In the morning, enter from the West Gate, visit the southern side of Tuancheng Lake, the West Causeway, the Jade Belt Bridge, the Farming and Weaving Map, and the western side of Tuancheng Lake, returning to the West Gate. This essentially completes a circuit of Tuancheng Lake. In the afternoon, enter from the West Gate, visit the west bank of Kunming Lake, the West Causeway, the Willow Bridge, the Jingming Bridge, and return to the West Gate.

Day 4: Visit the Xuhan Archway, enter from the East Palace Gate, visit the Long Corridor, ascend from the Paiyun Gate to the Tower of Buddhist Incense, then from the Cloud Pine Nest and Green Peach Pavilion to the Zhishulin, the Sea of ​​Wisdom, and the Four Continents. Then, descend the back mountain, pass the Purple Air Eastward Gate, visit the Garden of Virtue and Harmony, and exit from the East Palace Gate.

The Summer Palace is incredibly rich, and a thorough understanding requires considerable time. Four days is far from sufficient, and I will continue to explore it in detail and update it.

The Summer Palace, an imperial garden from the Qing Dynasty, was modeled after West Lake in Hangzhou. It was inspired by the ancient Chinese mythological "Three Immortal Mountains on the Sea," reminiscent of Jiangnan gardens and scenic landscapes. With the West Mountain as its backdrop, the gardens are best viewed from east to west. Opening at 6:00 AM, it's less crowded, with perfect lighting, for optimal viewing.

Access to the Summer Palace is convenient, with six gates.

1. East Palace Gate: Located near the West Garden. Upon entering, you'll find the Hall of Renshou and the Garden of Virtue and Harmony.

2. Wenchang Courtyard Gate: To the south of the East Palace Gate. Beyond this gate are the Wenchang Courtyard, Wenchang Pavilion, and Zhichun Pavilion.

3. North Palace Gate: Opposite the Central Party School.

4. Xinjian Palace Gate: Wenchang Courtyard Gate faces south, directly across from Xinjian Palace Gate Road. Upon entering, you'll see the Seventeen-Arch Bridge and the Bronze Bull.

5. South Ruyi Gate: Located in the southeast corner of the Summer Palace. Upon entering, you can see Xiuyi Bridge, near the West Causeway.

6. West Gate: Located on the southwest side of the West Lake in the Summer Palace, near Changguan Hall and the West Causeway.

7. North Ruyi Gate: Located in the northwest corner of the Summer Palace, west of the North Palace Gate, near Banbi Bridge.

The Summer Palace offers excellent transportation, making it convenient to travel by bus or car.

There are parking lots at the East Palace Gate, Xinjian Palace Gate, North Palace Gate, and West Gate, but parking can be limited during holidays, so taking public transportation is recommended.

Multiple bus routes stop at the Summer Palace. Metro Line 4 has a North Palace Gate stop, and the West Suburb Line tram has a Summer Palace West Gate stop.

Due to the epidemic, for safety reasons, I chose to drive to the Summer Palace, primarily in the early morning and around 3 or 4 p.m. to avoid peak traffic hours. The parking lots at Xinjian Palace Gate, West Gate, and East Palace Gate are all quite large and not far from the main gates.

For ease of description, I'll describe each one in chronological order.


Day 4. Morning, enter through the East Palace Gate.

There's no parking lot directly in front of the East Palace Gate, but there are several nearby, on Erlongzha Road and Kunming Lake East Road, each a five or six minute walk. The section of Kunming Lake Road leading to the East Palace Gate is closed from south to north after 9:00 AM.

Before entering, admire the Hanxu Archway. It's located directly east of the East Palace Gate, at the west end of Tongqing Street, and can be easily missed if you're not paying attention.

According to historical records, during the construction of the Qingyi Garden in the 15th year of Emperor Qianlong's reign in the Qing Dynasty, a wooden archway with four pillars, three rooms, and three floors was built outside the Great Palace Gate (now the East Palace Gate). Plaques were embedded on each side of the archway: the east side read "Yanxiu" and the west side read "Hanxu." This archway became the first landmark of the Summer Palace. In the 21st year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu, the Qingyi Garden was restored and renamed the Summer Palace. The main gate was renamed the East Palace Gate. The archway outside the gate had been worn and worn by weather for over 130 years. It was dismantled and rebuilt about 200 meters east of the East Palace Gate. The new archway, with four pillars, three rooms, and three stories, was rebuilt with four pillars, three rooms, and seven stories. It still oriented east-west, but the inscriptions on the plaques were swapped: "Hanxu" on the east side and "Yanxiu" on the west.

Some articles claim that the characters on the archway's plaque were written by Emperor Qianlong himself, but this is not true.

According to regulations, plaques on major buildings in imperial gardens should have been written by the emperor of the time. However, for unknown reasons, the plaque on this archway does not bear the seal "Qianlong Yubi Zhibao", commonly known as "no style and no seal". According to legend, after the completion of the Grand Palace Gate Archway, the Minister of Works requested the Qianlong Emperor to inscribe the plaque. The Emperor bestowed the names "Hanxu" and "Yanxiu" and commissioned Wang Youdun, then the Grand Councilor, to write it. Wang Youdun was apprehensive and hesitated to take up the pen. He wrote ten times before he was satisfied. Emperor Qianlong was deeply impressed by the inscription and ordered it to be carved into stone and inlaid on the archway. However, Wang Youdun, a courtier, did not dare to write his own name on a plaque bestowed by the Emperor, so the plaque naturally bears no signature or inscription.

The East Palace Gate is the main gate of the Summer Palace. It has five rooms, three open and two dark. Atop the gate's eaves hangs a golden plaque inscribed with the words "Summer Palace" by Emperor Guangxu himself. Five official seals are engraved on the plaque: "Treasures from the Imperial Brush of Emperor Guangxu," "Treasures from the Imperial Viewing of Empress Dowager Cixi," "A Counting of Plum Blossoms: The Heart of Heaven and Earth," "Peace and Benevolence, in Harmony with Heaven and Earth," and "Beautiful Days and Long Spring." The plaque is surrounded by nine golden dragons, earning it the name "Nine Dragons Golden Plaque." It is the highest-quality and highest-ranking plaque in the Summer Palace. Echoing the plaque is a stone paving stone depicting "Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl" centered on the steps on either side. The two flying dragons are meticulously and realistically carved, making it a truly rare stone sculpture.

Flanking the East Palace Gate are two bronze lions. The male lion on the left teases a hydrangea with its right paw, symbolizing authority; the female lion on the right teases a lion cub with her left paw, symbolizing inheritance from generation to generation. Lions are imported animals and are often regarded as mythical beasts that ward off evil.

After entering, you will reach Renshou Gate.

Renshou Gate is the second palace gate.

Entering Renshou Gate, you'll see a huge stone called Longevity Stone. Beyond this is the Renshou Hall (described previously).

Several osmanthus trees on either side of Renshou Hall are in full bloom. Although only a few flowers are in bloom, the fragrance still fills the garden. It is said that they will reach peak bloom around National Day, so come and experience the fragrance then.

Walk past Renshou Hall towards the lake and you will arrive at Zhichun Pavilion again.



The West Causeway, the Six Bridges, the distant mountains and the nearby shadows are so beautiful that they make people intoxicated. The Yuquan Twin Pagodas are charming and beautiful.


The water is turquoise, the mountains are lush green, and pavilions stand tall among the mountains. In front of Leshou Gate, there is the Sea God’s Lamp; on the Buddha Incense Pavilion, there is the wisdom of the incense world. Passing through the Invitation Moon Gate and heading west along the Long Corridor, you will see the towering Central Tower, the pavilions and bridges vaguely visible, the water rippling, and the sight of a cruise ship passing by.

In front of Paiyun Gate, a bronze lion stands with its mouth agape, its face ferocious and its posture menacing.

To reach the Tower of Buddhist Incense, one must enter through this gate. Since it was still early (it opens at 8:00), I decided to stroll around the area first.

To the west of Paiyun Gate lies a small courtyard called Qinghuaxuan. Originally the Hall of Five Hundred Arhats from the Qingyi Garden era, it was transformed into its current two-courtyard structure during the Guangxu period.

The white marble bridge and other buildings were all buildings from that time. At 8:00, buy a ticket (NT$10) and enter Paiyun Gate.

At 8:00, buy a ticket (NT$10) and enter Paiyun Gate.

Entering Paiyun Gate, you will see a plaque above it that reads "多祉有集", which means that a lot of auspicious energy gathers here. The line comes from the song "Shengya" played during sacrifices in suburban temples during the Sui Dynasty: "The butcher Ding is skilled in cooking, the Ge Lu is skilled in cooking. Many blessings are gathered, and great fortunes are coming together."

Ergong Gate. As previously mentioned, the Cloud-Dispelling Hall is located in the middle of the front hill of Longevity Mountain. It forms the axis of the front hill's architecture, rising from the Yunhui Yuyu Archway, through the Cloud-Dispelling Gate, the Golden Water Bridge, the Second Palace Gate, the Cloud-Dispelling Hall, the Dehui Hall, the Tower of Buddhist Incense, and the Sea of ​​Wisdom. It is the Summer Palace's most central and spectacular building. Originally the Great Bao'en and Longevity Temple, built by Emperor Qianlong for his mother's 60th birthday, it was renamed the Cloud-Dispelling Hall during Empress Dowager Cixi's reconstruction. It served as Cixi's residence within the park and the place where she received worship on her birthday.


The Second Palace Gate is the gate to the second courtyard of the Hall of Dispelling Clouds. It was where congratulatory messages were read during the Empress Dowager Cixi's birthday celebrations. In the center of the courtyard stands a single-arch stone bridge, also known as the Golden Water Bridge, flanked by ponds, serving both fire prevention and feng shui purposes. The Second Palace Gate is built on a high platform, with a black lacquer plaque with gold characters reading "Long Live the Buddha".


The Second Palace Gate is built on a high platform, with a black lacquer plaque with gold characters reading "Long Live the Buddha".

The courtyard is flanked by east and west side halls.

The East Side Hall - Yuhua Hall, was where the emperor rested when Cixi held the birthday celebration. The plaque on the lintel reads "Pearls and Wefts Join in Brilliance". The western side hall, Yunjin Hall, was a temporary resting place for princes and ministers of the second rank and above during Empress Dowager Cixi's birthday celebrations. After passing through the Second Palace Gate, one arrives at the Paiyun Hall. The Hall of Dispelling Clouds was built on the site of the former Main Hall of the Great Bao'en and Longevity Temple. Its Nine-Dragon Throne was used to receive congratulations on Empress Dowager Cixi's birthday. The hall is currently closed to visitors. The Hall features a dougong (bracket-shaped bracket-shaped arched beam) structure with a double-eaved hip roof covered in yellow glazed tiles. The eaves feature seven ridge beasts, with an immortal riding a chicken in the foreground. The main ridge features a large gilded chain with a gargoyle. While not as large as the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity, the Hall of Dispelling Clouds is the tallest building in the Summer Palace. A plaque reading "Da Yuan Bao Jing" hangs from the eaves of the main hall, and gilded double dragons and imperial seals adorn the rafters. On the platform in front of the main hall are placed bronze dragons, bronze phoenixes, bronze tripods, and incense burners. The bronze dragon and phoenix are both wrapped in wire, likely for protection.

Four bronze vats are placed symmetrically on either side of the stage, each inscribed with the inscriptions "Heaven and Earth Are One Family" and "Made in the Guangxu Period."

The courtyard is planted with papayas and crabapples, as well as two lush white pine trees, symbolizing prosperity and longevity.

There are many outdoor ornaments placed around the courtyard, each of them is a fine piece.

The Paiyun Hall also has east and west side halls.

The east side hall - Fanghui Hall,

A plaque with the words "Qi Rong Fu Fen" is hung on the inner eaves of the door.

The western side hall - Zixiao Hall.

The plaque on the inner eaves reads "登祥荐祉". The Paiyun Hall is a unique and expansive structure. Besides the east and west side halls, it also features east and west side halls on either side of the main hall, similar to the side rooms of the principal house, connected to the main hall by a corridor. It also boasts a double-eaved hip roof with yellow glazed tiles and bracketed brackets. Five ridge beasts adorn the eaves, and the main ridge is crowned with gilded ridge ornaments. This is the only surviving example of a medieval Jianzhong building that combines both a main hall and a mountain-supporting hall, demonstrating the high standards of Paiyun Hall. A plaque with the inscription "Phoenix, Zao, and Tengwen" hangs on the East Mountain-supporting Hall. In addition to corridors connecting the East and West Side Halls and the East and West Mountain-supporting Halls, there is also a corridor along the courtyard wall, also known as a climbing corridor, that leads directly to the buildings above, though it is now closed. Behind Paiyun Hall, climb 88 steps to Dehui Hall. The climbing corridors on both sides are relatively gentle, so if they were open, it would be easier to climb. Climbing up to look at Paiyun Hall, there are seven ridge beasts on the eaves. The front one is an immortal riding a chicken, and the back beasts are at the end. The main ridge is decorated with a large gargoyle and a gilded rope. Dehui Hall is the last hall in the Paiyun Hall compound. A bilingual plaque in Manchu and Chinese hangs under its eaves. "Dehui" (德辉) means the brilliance of benevolence and virtue. A horizontal plaque with the words "Fu Guang Rong Qing" (覆光荣庆) hangs above the main door, symbolizing the universal benevolence and eternal happiness. Dehui Hall also features bracketed brackets and yellow glazed tiles, but it differs in that it has a single-eaved hip roof, a gilded ridge-guard with a gargoyle, and gilded double dragon and imperial seal carvings on the rafters. Within Paiyun Hall, starting with the Dispelling Clouds Gate and continuing through Dehui Hall, all the main halls and gatehouses have gilded ridge-guards on their ridges. This demonstrates the architectural sophistication of Paiyun Hall, rivaling even the first three halls of the Forbidden City. Dehui Hall, formerly the Duobao Hall of the Qing Dynasty's Yiyuan Garden, now displays calligraphy and paintings received by Empress Dowager Cixi on her birthday. This ridge ornament was replaced during the renovation of the Hall of Dispelling Clouds during the Qing Dynasty. From the front of Dehui Hall, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the Summer Palace's front hillside, making it arguably the best vantage point for appreciating the Summer Palace's beauty.



Looking east, a lush green expanse stretches forth, while tall buildings stand in the distance, with the Olympic Sports Center Observation Tower standing tall like a crane among chickens. Looking southwest, the West Bank is shaded by weeping willows, dotted with six bridges, with rippling lake water and cruise ships passing through. Looking west, you can see lush green mountains and the shadows of the Jade Peak Pagoda.

Looking west, you can see overlapping green mountains and the shadows of the Jade Peak Pagoda.

A plaque behind Dehui Hall reads "Spring and Vitality," framed by the character for "Shou," and a bell with the three seals of Empress Dowager Cixi and Buddha.

From the platform behind Dehui Hall, you can see a pavilion and a group of buildings on each side of the Tower of Buddhist Incense, both closed to the public. Both pavilions are built on a platform of massive rocks, sharing the same design. They served as the eastern and western side halls of the Buddhist Incense Pavilion during the Qingyi Garden era, with the eastern pavilion known as Fuhua and the western pavilion known as Xiefang. The eastern pavilion, known as the Zhuanlunzang (Turning Wheel of Resurrection), is a Buddhist structure originally constructed during the Qianlong reign. It burned down along with the Buddhist Incense Pavilion in 1860 and was rebuilt during the Guangxu reign. In the center stands a stone stele. The front is inscribed with the six characters "Wanshou Mountain and Kunming Lake," written by Emperor Qianlong himself. On the back is a poem titled "Wanshou Mountain and Kunming Lake Records," which chronicles the dredging of Kunming Lake. The sides are inscribed with poems by Emperor Qianlong, also written by him. Four dragons hold pearls at the top. It is said that the design of the Monument to the People's Heroes in Tiananmen Square was inspired by this stele. The three spires of the main hall of the Turpanchakra (Turning Wheel of Dharma) feature rare glazed statues of Fu, Lu, and Shou. While this is supposedly a Buddhist building, the inclusion of these common Taoist images of Fu, Lu, and Shou suggests a strong fusion of influences. It's said the three current statues are replicas; the originals are now in the collection of cultural relics.

From the back courtyard of Dehui Hall, ascend another 115 steps to the gate of the Foxiang Pavilion, which leads to a semi-enclosed corridor.

Below the Buddha Incense Pavilion is a five-foot-tall white marble Sumeru pedestal with a white marble handrail. The stone carvings on the Sumeru pedestal are exquisite and well-preserved.

Under the eaves of the first floor on the front are plaques reading "Heavenly Fragrance Beyond the Clouds", the second floor reading "The Weather is Reflective", and the third floor reading "The Style of Yang's Teaching".

The Buddhist Fragrance Pavilion is no longer accessible to visitors, and one can only view its contents from outside.

The Buddhist Incense Pavilion's corridor has gates on the east, south, west, and north sides. Currently, only the main gate on the south side is open; the others are closed. This is the view of the east side of the Fuhuating Pavilion from within the courtyard. While the Buddha Fragrance Pavilion is undoubtedly the highest point on the Qianshan Mountain in terms of height, it's not located at the summit, judging by topography. Standing on the first-floor terrace of the Pavilion, overlooking the mountaintop, you'll see a dazzling glazed archway atop the rockery outside the north gate. Behind it lies the glazed hall at the top of Wanshou Mountain.

The archway's architectural style is similar to that of the Xiangshan Zhaomiao Temple, with a seven-story, hipped roof and four-pillar imitation wood. The designs on the side lintels are called "Double Dragons Holding Longevity."

There are five ridge beasts on the main ridge and the vertical ridge. There are three ridge beasts on the secondary ridge and the vertical ridge. The glazed components are vivid in shape and bright in color.

Since we can’t get to the back mountain, we can only return the same way, take a rest, and then climb again from the west side.

Before, you could get to the glazed archway from the Tower of Buddhist Incense. Now if you want to go to the top of the back mountain, you can only go down the mountain and climb from both sides. I don’t know what the managers are considering, but it has doubled the intensity for tourists. Think about it, there are about three hundred steps from Paiyun Gate to the Tower of Buddhist Incense. Once you get to the Tower of Buddhist Incense, you can easily reach the glazed archway and then visit the buildings on the back mountain. But now, you have to climb again. Can our managers consider issues from the perspective of tourists, listen to the opinions of tourists more, and don’t make decisions on a whim?

At present, the epidemic In the current situation, managers at all levels are under great pressure, but a common problem is that they simplify the handling of problems, or to be more precise, shirking responsibility. There is no problem with controlling the flow of people, wearing masks, prohibiting gatherings of people, closing indoor venues, etc., but for some problems that can be easily solved through simple work, they do not spend effort to solve the problems, but simply shut down, stop, and cut off. This saves trouble and does not take responsibility. As for whether it is convenient for the service objects, that is not their focus. Their focus is on making the leaders happy, satisfying the superiors, not making trouble, and not taking responsibility. So this is the reality, a very sad reality, I can only complain about it, alas.

Go down to Paiyun Gate and go west along the corridor. I originally wanted to go up the mountain from the painting, but was told that the road in the upper reaches of the painting was broken due to maintenance. I chose a road on the east side of the painting to go up the mountain.

Go up the mountain along the path in front of Yunsongchao Gate, pass the Green Border Pavilion and Shaowo Hall, and the mountain road becomes steeper.

Further up, basically along the outer wall of Foxiang Pavilion, there is no formal road. It is a mountain road trodden by pedestrians. There are no steps and you can only use your hands and feet. It is not recommended for older people.

Not far away, we came to the glazed archway - Zhongxiangjie - seen from the Buddhist Incense Pavilion.

The plaque on this side (north side) of the archway reads "Zhi Shu Shu", with red characters on a white background and a golden dragon twining around the forehead. It is also known as "Double Dragons Holding Longevity".

The stone arch is exquisitely carved, and the door can be opened to the Buddhist Incense Pavilion.

The main hall opposite the forest is a religious building at the highest point of Wanshou Mountain - Wisdom Sea. It is a beamless Buddhist temple made entirely of bricks and stones, and is composed of vertical and horizontal arch structures. There is not a single piece of wood in the building, and it is all made of stone bricks. There are no purlins to bear the weight, so it is called the "Beamless Hall".

The Sea of Wisdom was built in the fifteenth year of Qianlong's reign. The name of the temple comes from the "Infinite Life Sutra": "The Tathagata's Sea of Wisdom, the God's Mansion has no boundaries." Sitting north and facing south, it has a white marble platform, seven rooms wide, two floors, a five-color glazed tile roof, a mountain-style roof, and five pagodas on the main ridge. The exterior walls are all decorated with yellow and green glazed tiles, and the top is decorated with purple and blue colors. There is a stone plaque "Sea of Wisdom" on the front eaves above the door opening, and a stone plaque "Auspicious Cloud" on the back eaves.

Each room on the front eaves is equipped with two solid collapsed doors, with a square arch window above the door, white marble arched doors on the back eaves, and white marble arched doors on the mountain faces on both sides. There are three small towers on the main ridge, and there are kissing beasts and immortals on the oblique ridge.

The most distinctive feature of Wisdom Sea is the more than a thousand glazed Buddha statues embedded in the wall outside the hall, a total of 1,110.

If you look closely at these Buddha statues, you will find that many of them are exquisite and intact from the head down, but their faces are damaged and blurred. This is because although the World of Fragrances and the Sea of Wisdom survived the fire of the British and French allied forces in 1860 due to their masonry structures, all the wooden Buddhist niches in the temple were destroyed. In the fourteenth year of Guangxu's reign, the glazed archway of Zhongxiangjie and the glazed hall of Wisdom Sea were rebuilt. When the "Eight-Nation Allied Forces" invaded China in the 26th year of Guangxu's reign, they sent wisdom outside the sea wall. Many of the glazed Buddha heads on the wall were knocked off, and were later looted during the Cultural Revolution, leaving very few left. So many of what we see now are restored. Due to the limitations of the firing process at that time, the head and body of the Buddha statue were fired separately and then bonded together. Over time, the head and body could easily separate. Coupled with man-made damage, we have seen the current situation.

The Wisdom Sea is currently closed and cannot be visited.

Continue going east and down, walking through the pagodas and pavilions made of rocks, and come to the four major continents.


(Pictures from the Internet)

Si Dabu Continent is the highest point of the back mountain building and the top of the back mountain building axis. The buildings on the back mountain and the buildings on the front mountain are not on the same axis. The axis of the buildings on the back mountain is east of the axis of the buildings on the front mountain. According to the axis, the Wisdom Sea and the Buddhist Incense Pavilion are on the same axis, that is, on the axis of the front mountain building. At the same time, the sea of wisdom is also a transition, connecting the buildings on the front mountain and the buildings on the back mountain.


(Pictures from the Internet)

The entire Houshan Buddhist building complex during the Qingyi Garden period is collectively known as the Houdamiao. Houdamiao Temple and Puning Temple in Chengde are mixed Chinese-Tibetan Buddhist temples of the same style that were built simultaneously in the two places during the Qianlong period. The Buddhist temple is based on the Samye Temple, a famous lama temple in Tibet, as the blueprint for planning and design. It faces south and faces north.

This group of buildings, which combines Han and Tibetan styles, is composed of northern and southern parts. The northern half is in Chinese style, with Xumi Lingjing as the center. The southern half is Tibetan style. With Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion as the center, surrounded by many Tibetan-style tower buildings and lama pagodas, they are the four major continents, which have a strong Tibetan color.

In the four major continents, the buildings are located on high platforms, which are built with Tibetan-style diamond walls. The bottom layer is ten meters high and shrinks as you go up, making it appear particularly tall and stable. There are many stacked stones around the high platform, which highlight the ruggedness and thickness, complementing the buildings on the front mountain.

In 1860, all the wooden buildings of the Hou Temple were destroyed by fire by the British and French forces. clear light In the 14th year of Xu (1888), the Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion was built on the original site, while the rest of the place was still a piece of rubble.

The current layout was rebuilt as it was in 1980. Although it is no longer as good as the scene during the Qianlong period, it can still express a strong and glorious plateau charm. The four major continents use the same drawing as the four major continents of Puning Temple, one of the eight temples outside the Chengde Summer Resort, so they are exactly the same.

According to the "Agama Sutra", there are four worlds in the world, that is, the four major continents, which respectively express the four types of societies. Human beings in the society class. One is Beijuluzhou, the second is Nanfanbuzhou, the third is Dongshengshenzhou, and the fourth is Xiniuhezhou. In the Aral Sea on all sides of Mount Sumeru.

The four continents are built based on ancient Indian philosophical concepts. The four major continents and eight small continents are arranged in four directions around the Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion, which symbolizes Mount Sumeru, the center of the world. In the southeast, southwest, northeast and northwest of the pavilion, there are four lama pagodas, red, white, black and green, representing the "Four Wisdoms" of the Buddhist scriptures.

Main buildings in the four continents:

1) Sutra Pillars: Two Buddhist decorations in front of the four major continents. There are many small Buddha statues on them and the Diamond Sutra is engraved on them.

2) Diamond Wall: A brick wall that raises the four continents as a whole, showing its majesty.

3) Main hall: Made of glazed tiles, it is magnificent and represents Mount Sumeru, which is located in the center of the world in Buddhism.

4) The four major continents and eight minor continents: represent the four major continents and eight minor continents located around Mount Sumeru in Buddhism.

5) Sunlight Bodhisattva and Moonlight Bodhisattva temples: represent the sun and moon surrounding Mount Sumeru moon.

6) Black, red, white and green lama pagodas: represent the four kinds of wisdom in Buddhism. White: the wisdom of the big round mirror. Red: the wisdom of success. Black: the wisdom of equality. Green: the wisdom of wonderful observation.

Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion

Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion symbolizes Mount Sumeru, the center of the Buddhist world. It was originally a two-story Buddhist tower with square triple eaves, a roof surrounded by pointed pavilions, and a verandah style in the center. It was modeled after the Wuce Hall in Sangyuan Temple in Tibet.

The four major continents

Beijuluzhou, Nanzhanbuzhou, Dongshengshenzhou, and Xiniuhezhou, in order It has four different shapes: square, triangle, half-moon, and circle, corresponding to what Buddhism calls the "four elements": earth (square), fire (triangle), wind (half-moon), and water (circle).

The south of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion is Beijuluzhou. The Buddhist hall is a square blockhouse-style platform with a single eaves and pointed roof. The existing building is rectangular, facing south and facing north, with two floors, a verandah roof, a round dome and yellow glazed tiles in the main ridge.

The shape of Nanzhan Buzhou is triangular, with a mountain-style yellow glazed tile roof and a kissing beast immortal.
Dongsheng Shenzhou is located on the west side of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion. It is a half-moon-shaped building, facing south and north. The wooden structure building on the watchtower-style platform is a single-eaves verandah style, with a yellow glazed tile roof and a kissing beast immortal.

Xiniu Hezhou is located on the east side of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion. The building plane is oval in shape, and a small verandah-style hall is built on the watchtower, facing east and west. On the second floor, with a yellow glazed tile roof, there is a Kissing Beast Immortal.

Baxiaobuzhou

Baxiaobuzhou, also known as Bazhongzhou, is a legendary geographical term, namely "Bitihezhou", "Tihezhou", "Palajamoluozhou", "Jamuluozhou", "Ailuomandalinazhou", "Shedizhou", "Lavazhou", "Julapozhou".

There is a rectangular small continent on each side of the south and north sides of Dongsheng Shenzhou, which are "Bitihezhou" and "Tihezhou" among the eight small continents.

Looking south, there are two hexagonal small continents in the east and west of the continent, respectively representing the "Pluo Jamuluo Continent" and "Jamoluo Continent" among the eight small continents.

There is a small hexagonal continent in the south and north of Xiniu Hezhou, which represents the "Aoluo Manta Lina Island" among the eight small continents. and "Sadizhou".

There is a small hexagonal continent in the east and west of Beijulu Continent, symbolizing the "Lapo Continent" and "Julapo Continent" among the eight small continents.

Vatican Pagoda

Four white, green, black and red Vatican Pagodas with different colors, shapes, patterns and decorations are built in the southeast, northeast, southwest and northwest of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion, namely Lama Pagoda. There are different opinions on the purpose of the four Vatican pagodas: one is that they represent the four kinds of wisdom in Buddhism, the white pagoda represents the wisdom of the great round mirror, the green pagoda represents the wisdom of wonderful observation, the black pagoda represents the wisdom of equality, and the red pagoda represents the wisdom of achievement. One theory is that it represents the four sects of Buddhism. The white pagoda represents the Mahayana Sutra, the green pagoda represents the Hinayana Sravaka, the black pagoda represents the Mahayana Tantra, and the red pagoda represents the Self-Enlightened Buddha.

The four Lama pagodas are pure Tibetan-style buildings, consisting of four parts: base, pagoda body, phase wheel and pagoda brake. base The bases are all made of granite and are square. The body of the tower is round belly-shaped, with colors of white, green, black and red. It has thirteen layers of phase wheels. The tower brake is composed of an umbrella cover and a treasure brake. The phase wheels and pagodas of the four Vatican pagodas symbolize the head of the Buddha, and the pagoda body contains profound Buddhist connotations.

Sun Platform and Moon Platform

There are two rectangular tower-style platforms of the same style built symmetrically on the hillside on both sides behind Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion. There are small veranda-style Buddha halls built on the platforms, named Sun Platform and Moon Platform, symbolizing the sun and moon that appear on both sides of Mount Xumi day and night. It is said in the Buddhist scriptures that "there are two Bodhisattvas in this country, one whose sun shines all over the world, and the other who shines with moonlight all over. They are the leaders of the countless Bodhisattvas in the five realms." The sun platform sits in the west and faces east; the platform sits in the east and faces west. On the yellow glazed tile roof, there is a Kissing Beast Immortal. The top is green, with a six-color waistband and a yellow glazed tile wall cap.


Going down from the Wisdom Sea, you first pass by the Four Continent Mountain Gate. The Sidabuzhou Mountain Gate is located at the highest point of the Sidabuzhou, directly opposite the Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion. There are courtyard walls on both sides to surround the Sidabuzhou.

Go through the mountain gate and go down the steps made of huge rocks. On the east side is the rectangular Beiju Luzhou.

On the west side is Nanzhan Buzhou, which is also rectangular. Its appearance is no different from Beiju Luzhou. It is not a triangle as mentioned in the introduction. Maybe the original building was a triangle and it became what it is now after reconstruction.

Below Beiju Luzhou and to the east of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion is the oval-shaped Dongsheng Shenzhou.

Corresponding to Dongsheng Shenzhou is the half-moon-shaped Xiniu Hezhou located on the west side of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion and below Nanzhan Buzhou.



There are two small states with roughly the same appearance in the north and south, or east and west, for a total of eight.

To the southwest of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion is the Black Tower.

To the southeast is the White Tower.

To the northwest is the Red Tower.

To the northeast is the Green Tower.

The Vatican canopy and the Buddhist temple.


The architectural standards of the four major continents are very high. The main ridges and vertical ridges are made of five ridged beasts and immortals. The roof is covered with yellow glazed tiles, and the workmanship is exquisite. The ridged ridges, ridged beasts, glazed decorations, and paintings are all very exquisite.

The main hall of Xiangyan Zongyin Pavilion on the high platform also has a screen-like mountain gate in front of the hall, which corresponds to the highest mountain gate. The middle door of the mountain gate does not open, and access is on both sides.

The Glass Palace on the high platform - the Sea of Wisdom is in the southwest of the four continents.

You can see a large blank ground from the four major continents, with exposed pillars in the middle. This is the Xumi Lingjing ruins, and it is estimated that it may be rebuilt in the future.

Go down to the bottom of the four continents and look back. The bottom is the Xumi Lingjing ruins. Going up, the main hall in the middle is the Pavilion of Xiangyan Zongyin. The four continents, eight continents, and four Vatican pagodas are arranged around it.

The scripture buildings are arranged on both sides of the bottom.

Stone lions on both sides of the bottom.


Xumi Lingjing ruins and the four continents and the sea of wisdom.

Going further down is the Songtang and Cifu Archway, and the back mountain building complex ends here.

Going down to the square in front of Cifu Archway, you will see several stone carvings on the east and west sides. Some of the stone animals on them are incomplete, but you can still see that the stone carvings are extremely exquisite. This is the holding stone of the east and west archways. In the past, there were three archways in front of Xumiling Realm in the east, west and north. Later, only the Cifu Archway in the north was restored.

Continue to the east, pass Yinhui City Pass, and want to see Duobao Glazed Pagoda.

When I got closer, I found that it was being repaired.

Go through the Garden of Harmony and Purple Air to the east of Chengguan and arrive at the Garden of Dehe.

As mentioned before, Dehe Garden was the place where Cixi watched theater and listened to music. It was originally the site of Yichun Hall during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty and was rebuilt during the Guangxu period. Its main buildings are the theater building, the grand theater building, the Yi Le Hall and the theater gallery.

Dehe Garden, Changyin Pavilion in the Forbidden City and Qingyin Pavilion in Chengde Summer Resort in Hebei Province are also known as the three major theaters of the Qing Palace. Changyin Pavilion in the Forbidden City was demolished during the Jiaqing period, Qingyin Pavilion in the Summer Resort was destroyed by the Japanese invaders, and only Dehe Garden survived. In addition, the architectural specifications and historical connotation of the Deheyuan Theater are the best among the three major theaters, and it can be regarded as the pinnacle surviving representative of ancient Chinese theaters.

Dehe Garden charges 5 yuan. The gatehouse is very ordinary, but the finials and eaves are gilded, without losing the royal style.

After entering the gate, there is a wooden screen wall.

In the center of the garden, there is a two-sided building, the south-facing side is slightly narrower, and the north-facing side is slightly wider. The south-facing one is called the Playhouse, with two floors. It is where actors put on makeup, dress up, wait on stage, store clothes, and change props. Gallery rooms are connected on both sides to separate the courtyard.

On the east and west sides of the garden are corridors that double as courtyard walls. The fragrant osmanthus in the garden has many varieties, such as golden osmanthus, silver osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, Japanese osmanthus, etc. It is the favorite tree species in the royal courtyard, meaning "gold and precious". However, sweet-scented osmanthus cannot survive the winter in the north, so it is planted in wooden barrels and moved to an indoor greenhouse in winter.

After passing the gallery, you can see the grand theater, also called the singing theater, which is integrated with the acting theater.

Lower plaque: Huanlu Rongzhao.

Middle level plaque: Taiping Yutai.

The plaque on the upper floor reads: Qingyan Changchen. The plaques on the three floors are all written by Cixi herself.


The construction of the Grand Theater is at its peak.

The lower stage is 17 meters wide, 16 meters deep, and the eaves are 4.48 meters high. The middle stage is 12 meters wide, and the upper stage is slightly smaller.

There is a fairy tower with three rooms behind the lower stage, and four fairy bridges are connected between the fairy tower and the stage surface.

A hole with a depth of 10.1 meters and an upper diameter of 1.1 meters was excavated at the bottom of the lower stage. A brick well with a diameter of 2.8 meters was installed. Five pools about 1 meter square and 1.28 meters deep were excavated on the east, west and north sides of the brick well, which can not only create a water spray effect during performances, but also use water sounds to increase the resonance effect of singing.

Corresponding to these five pools, there are five pulleys built on the middle and upper theater floors. When acting, you can coordinate up and down, and perform a large Qiemo play with water skills and tricks at the same time.

The architecture of the Grand Theater is extremely exquisite, with finials, eaves, and gold-painted paintings, all showing the noble and royal style.

Opposite the Grand Theater is the Yi Le Hall, which was built specifically for Cixi to watch plays. It has a throne, a lounge and a dormitory for lunch breaks for the Empress Dowager. Unfortunately, it is not possible to visit it now.

There are also theaters on the east and west sides of the grand theater where Cixi Enshang, princes and nobles watched the opera, with ten rooms on each side.

After visiting Dehe Garden, go out of the East Palace Gate and the day tour ends.

(End)


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