Those times walking on the road - Shangri-La in dreams and the mysterious and legendary daughter country Lugu Lake

  • Number of days: 6 days
  • Time: June
  • Average cost: 4500 yuan
  • With whom: With friends
  • Updated: 2020.06.05

Yunnan, a magical and beautiful paradise,

has so many magnificent scenery

that you can't help but go there again and again,

and make you can't help but be excited again and again,

·······

therefore,

in the yearning for the mysterious Shangri-La,

in the longing for the ancient traditions of the daughter country of Lugu Lake

I set foot on this colorful land of Yunnan for the fourth time.

Let's take a few beautiful pictures to see how many beautiful scenery in this magical land are worth visiting again and again.

Lugu Lake, this blue and beautiful lake, is even more mysterious because of the legend of the daughter country. In Pudacuo National Park, the quiet pastoral pastoral is the habitat of the soul and the poetry we chase.

Our itinerary starts in Lijiang. I arrived in Lijiang, the so-called "city of beauty", with my friends, but the locals don't like this name, they love the vicissitudes of the ancient Naxi Tea Horse Road, and they are more willing to show the world their traditional pure national culture, such as the ancient Dongba script that is still in use.

It's just that how many people in the impetuous society have dusted their souls and chased the momentary pleasure brought by romantic encounters. Fortunately, there are still so many pure folk songs in the ancient city of Lijiang, and in the time of a glass of wine or a cup of tea, there is a quiet atmosphere of the years.

That night, I stayed in the official garden villa with my friends, and went to Yulong Snow Mountain the next morning.

Yulong Snow Mountain is a group of snow-capped mountains in Lijiang, with the highest peak of 5,596 meters above sea level, and you can currently take the cable car to reach the glacier park at 4,506 meters, and then walk to the peak of 4,680 meters.

When I first went to Yulong Snow Mountain in 05, I could only reach 3356 meters to see the snow-capped mountain from a distance, but now I can feel the magnificence of the snow-capped mountains and glaciers up close, and I feel that it is even more shocking visually.

And on the higher peaks in the distance, there are also fairy-like clouds and mist. The perennial snow has gradually turned into a thick layer of ice, but I don't know how much time it has been carved? This is the highest point at 4506 meters and then up to the highest point at 4680 meters. When we went up the mountain, it happened to be repaired here, so tourists crowded here to see the highest peak of the snow-capped mountain, but at this moment the highest peak of the snow-capped mountain was completely covered by that haze, and the clouds and mist were like a fairyland on earth. Sitting in the cable car, there is not only the fog that lingers outside the window, but also the towering spruce forest. That touch of dark green adds an unparalleled charm to this monotonous black and white snow-capped mountain. A big red font hangs high on the snow mountain square, and the tour guide said that this is the Dongba script, which is the Chinese word for love, but the love of the Naxi people is really not difficult.

Get off the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and take a bus directly to the Blue Moon Valley, a scenic spot in the scenic area. The predecessor of Blue Moon Valley was actually the White Water River, but when the weather was clear, the river water turned blue, so it was called Blue Moon Valley.

In the Blue Moon Valley, the horizontal mirror-like lake water is shimmering, and the layered colors dot the valley and dot this boundless sky.

My friends show their faces here because we all love this gurgling water and this green mountains and water. In the clouds and mist, the mountains become more verdant and the water becomes clearer. The never-ending waterfall flows tirelessly into the distance, flowing away every day of the years. Layered on top of each other, the small waterfall made of stones is so seductive. The water flowing down the snow-capped mountains gradually changes from blue to transparent white, and so on. Under the sunlight, the water appears in a variety of different colors of blue. And this peacock blue makes the mountains even more colorful. Spread the wings of your dreams and embrace the beauty of all the years of your life. Standing in Ganhaizi, a place that was once full of glaciers, you can see the winding and spectacular Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from afar. Under the fog, the whole picture of the snow-capped mountains can no longer be seen clearly, but the clouds and mist shrouded in mountains add to the mystery and dreaminess. It is said that walking along this road is the village where James Hilton, the author of "The Vanishing Horizon", lives. A novel has made Shangri-La popular, and the real Shangri-La is just a representation of the purity, sacredness and tranquility of a paradise. Lijiang Yulong Snow Mountain International Golf Course, which is said to be the only snow-capped mountain course in the northern hemisphere, has a high altitude, and playing here is really not an ordinary test of physical strength.

Shuhe Ancient Town is one of the earliest settlements of the Naxi ethnic group and is part of the ancient tea horse road.

Eight or nine hundred years ago, it was also a gathering place for merchants. Although it is not as lively as Dayan Ancient Town now, there is still more modern hustle and bustle than before. It is also a great fun and experience to ride a horse-drawn carriage to experience the ancient tea horse road culture thousands of years ago in the ancient town.

A group of five of us sat in this pony carriage, in the dripping rain, in the sound of horses' hooves, experiencing the feelings of those merchants thousands of years ago. The truth is that the experience is completely different. The road here is no longer as bumpy as before, and the people here have long been different. The ancient words in the ancient town are written on the old houses, and time seems to stand still here.

In the drizzle, I did not experience "withered vines and old trees, small bridges and flowing water, and ancient roads and thin horses in the west wind." The sun sets, and the heartbroken people are at the end of the world". Although "small bridges and flowing water are still the same". But there will be no more heartbroken people at the end of the world, because of the convenience of modern transportation and the Internet, we have become a family in the global village.

When I returned to the official garden villa in the evening, I found that the scenery of this hotel is enough to make people stop and watch.

Gate 1 of the hotel. Cross the arch bridge and enter the lobby of the hotel. The arch bridge and the blue sky and white clouds blend into one and reflect in the stream. "Knock on the firewood door for a long time, a branch of red apricot comes out of the wall" hahaha...

The day's itinerary starts from the foggy snow-capped mountains in the early morning, to a vast pool of turquoise and clear Blue Moon Valley,

and then to the pony carriage of Shuhe Ancient Town to experience the ancient tea horse road culture more than 800 years ago, and pursue the artistic conception of "the ancient road west wind thin horse".

The next day's trip was really exciting.

Stepping on the glass trestle with a height of 70 meters and a length of 118 meters in fear, I didn't dare to walk because my legs were weak, and the tour guide fell directly on the glass trestle because the glass was too slippery in the light rain, which scared me so much that I didn't dare to step forward.

Finally, at the urging of my friends, I finally moved to the finish line step by step, and the result was that my buttocks and legs hurt because I was too nervous and my muscles were stiff.

To be honest, it looks a little weak. On the side of the mountain road, I saw a tree full of fruit, and the guide said that it was a pecan, and it was the first time I had seen a fresh unripe pecan. My friend itched his hand and picked two green pecans, which I took to take pictures. Up close, it looks a bit like an unripe pumpkin. The beauty loves this mountain trail with trees on both sides. We walked along a ding-dong creek all the way to the Jinsha River. On both sides of the stone path, occasional loud mountain waterfalls cascade. It was like a white silk scarf wrapped around the mountains. We were boating on the Jinsha River. The Jinsha River is known as the "first drift of the Yangtze River", but this first drift does not have any stimulation. According to the tour guide, the Jinsha River looks like the water is not prosperous, but in fact, it is turbulent underwater, and I don't know how many souls are sleeping under the Jinsha River. The mountains on both sides of the Jinsha River are winding, viaducts can be seen everywhere, and white clouds drift on the top of the mountain, which is a good place to go freely. The seemingly calm water surface is actually rough underwater.

The Jinsha River is the upper reaches of the Yangtze River, originating in Qinghai Province and passing between Sichuan, Tibet and Yunnan provinces.

After rafting on the Jinsha River, we returned to the parking lot along the side plank road. On the plank road, you can see the whole picture of this section of the Jinsha River. There are also villages and farmland on both sides of the riverbank. What a beautiful pastoral scenery. I wonder how the former old man Mu would feel if he saw the current Jinsha River? One side of the water and soil nurtures the other side, the four seasons here are like spring, this place is suitable for a slow-paced life, and the green mountains and green waters here nurture the simple locals here.

Shangri-La, this holy place that everyone in the world yearns for because of the book "The Vanishing Horizon", has finally ceased to be the place of yearning in dreams, and I really set foot on this distant hot land.

On top of this hot land,

there is the Tiger Leaping Gorge with the galloping waves of thousands of horses,

China's first national park, the park has vast grasslands, mountains, lakes, and a large area of wildflowers dotted in the boundless mountains,

there are mysterious ancient temples in the glow of the sunset,

and there are legendary heavenly burials······

Although

I couldn't see the sky burial with my own eyes this time, But the awe of nature grew more and more in the galloping horses, in the boundless wilderness, and in the mysterious and colorful temples.

Arrived at Tiger Leaping Gorge by car, and before entering the scenic spot, I had already heard the roaring waves of the valley. So, take a picture of this steep canyon at the entrance of the scenic spot. After climbing 600 steps, I saw this spectacular Tiger Leaping Gorge! The galloping of thousands of horses is not enough to describe this majestic momentum! The rushing water instantly drowned everything. On

the way to the ancient city of Dukezong, we passed through the Jidam steppe. Jidam grassland is a grassland with plateau characteristics. The grassland is full of large yellow wolf poison flowers, and occasionally there are many small flowers of light pink and light purple to form an endless sea of flowers, which is very beautiful.

Tibetan-style blessings and architecture have unique characteristics. The white clouds are like brocade embedded in the mountains, and the terraced fields are hidden between the villages. A winding path leads to the world of modern civilization. It's like Shangri-La in "The Vanishing Horizon". That tranquility, that sacred and mysterious atmosphere shrouded such a beautiful world. I love this large grassland full of wildflowers, and the boundless yellow and green is the wine of time poured on the boundless field, making people smell the fragrance and refuse to return. How can such a beautiful grassland lack a protagonist? The cattle dotted with stars on the field quietly enjoyed the beauty in their eyes, and the delicious grass was the only one in their eyes at the moment. After admiring the boundless grassland with brilliant flowers, we continued to move forward. According to Shangri-La's local reception, these buildings are prepared for outsiders who live and work here, and the locals do not like to live in such buildings, they prefer to go out to the endless grassland.

The ancient city of Dukezong (Tibetan pronunciation contains two meanings, one is a castle built on stone, and the other is Moonlight City) is the largest Tibetan residential complex in China and an ancient city with a history of more than 1,300 years, which was once the hub of the ancient tea horse road. Unfortunately, a fire in 14 years burned the ancient city beyond recognition. Fortunately, the renovated ancient city can also get a glimpse of the ancient tea horse road culture.

There is also the world's largest prayer wheel, 21 meters high and a total weight of 60 tons. The cylinder body is built of pure copper gilding.

I have always been full of curiosity and admiration for the lamas in the temple, from the ancient Buddha of the green lantern in the past, to the current temples and temples, how did they manage to remain unmoved in the face of such a flowery world and quietly guard the peaceful place of the soul? How did they survive the monotony of the morning bells and evening drums? Perhaps the persistent faith in their hearts has achieved their eternal perseverance. The whole view of the built ancient city of Dukezong through the layers of colorful prayer flags. The huge prayer wheel takes three to four people to push, which is truly spectacular. Local Tibetans, too many people have portraits of Chairman Mao hanging in their homes, and they are extremely grateful to Chairman Mao for freeing them from serfdom and allowing them to live a free and happy life. The scene of the Red Army crossing the snow-capped mountains looks like an extremely difficult trek. The scene of the Red Army crossing the grassland is also vivid, but how many soldiers' blood and corpses were left behind during the Long March, and these gradually forgotten pasts have become eternal in the long river of history.

After visiting the ancient city of Dukezong, the Red Army Museum, the spectacle of the largest prayer wheel, and going to Tibetan homes in the evening to experience the food and culture of Tibetans.

The final performance ended with enthusiastic singing and wild dancing by the campfire.

Early the next morning, we headed to Pudacuo National Park. Pudacuo National Park is our first national park in China. At an altitude of 3,500 meters to 4,159 meters, it covers an area of 1,313 square kilometers, and the park has lakes and wetlands, forest meadows, river valleys and streams, cherished animals and plants, etc.

There are three attractions in the park that follow the tourist bus, namely Shidu Lake, Grassland Observation Deck and Bita Sea. Because the weather was raining, we took a boat directly to Bita Sea here in the capital lake.

Pudacuo Park Gate. Entering the park, in the drizzle, I saw the mountain peaks in the distance shrouded in clouds and mist, and a large area of unknown wildflowers blooming on the nearby grass, like a dream and a fairyland. The clouds, the mountains, the cowsheds, and the endless grassland and the winding paths on the grassland leading into the distance, at this moment, the silent morning knocked on my closed heart, and I love such beautiful nature , love this boundless silence and mountains. The clouds that are getting closer and closer seem to be shrouded in fairy aura in front of you, is this Shangri-La in a dream? Is this the habitat of the soul? I only know that my heart is so peaceful at this moment, like the beautiful scenery at this moment. Isn't it a great pleasure for the two black cows in this photo to have fun and enjoy it after a hearty meal on this beautiful grassland? Hahaha····· The bends and eighteen bends of the creek will eventually flow to the boundless lake, and nothing can stop the pace of moving forward. The road near Pudacuo Park is full of such beautiful scenery, and the yellow, yellow, green and green are the footprints of time.

Leaving Pudacuo Park, we returned to Lijiang from Shangri-La. The next day, we will go to the shore of Lugu Lake, which has a magical legend, to see the scenery of Lugu Lake, the country of Mosuo's daughter, and feel the love legend of women under this ancient tradition.

The Jinsha River between the steep canyons goes all the way east to the vast sea.

Eighteen bends along the mountain road, all the way west, across the Jinsha River. The mountains are steep and the roads are rugged. Many times we lament the smallness and humility of human beings in front of nature, but too often we have to admire the greatness of human beings.

Look at the bridge that spans the rivers, lakes and seas,

look at the cables that surpass the mountains and mountains,

and look at the high-speed trains·····

which are really proud of us humans!

Departing from Lijiang, after more than four hours of driving, we arrived at the deep and secluded Lugu Lake, and also arrived at the magical and legendary daughter country. At the beginning of arrival, I was amazed by the depth of Lugu Lake and the tranquility of Lugu Lake. Later, what amazed me even more was the love under the ancient tradition of Lugu Lake, which is not bound by a marriage certificate, but it is also eternal.

It is not only this deep lake that has a long history, but also the eternal love under ancient traditions.

View of Lugu Lake from the Lugu Lake Observation Deck. Quiet is the most beautiful sound of Lugu Lake at this moment. Swaying in the water is the soft and white water-based yang flower. The clear lake water, near the shore, is covered with strings of green vine and white flowers, and this has become a famous local dish in Lugu Lake - water-based poplar flowers. Don't get me wrong, in fact, this water-based poplar should be the yang of the sun, because this flower will only bloom when the sun comes out, and the sun will naturally hide the brilliant flowers. On the shore of the lake, the blooming roses are charming and fragrant. The blue and white enchantment is now the only color of the sky and lake. May I ask, what other language can praise the beauty in front of you? Nature never skimps on its pen and ink, and always spends its magic. The most beautiful village by the lake - Daluoshui Village. Those colorful light boats quietly docked by the deep blue lake, waiting for the wanderers in the world who came for this deep and deep lake. A beautiful landscape painting comes into view and breaks into the heart. Walking around the lake, the beautiful scenery that comes into view is always unforgettable. In the evening, dusk is approaching, the mountains and lakes have merged, the glow reflects the clouds, and a silent and beautiful oil painting jumps in front of you. The mountain is attached to the water, the water is attached to the mountain, and the mountain is eternal. Mosuo bonfire. What was once a traditional bonfire party as a wedding party has now become a performance project.

In the past, Mosuo people could participate in bonfires after women turned 13 years old, and if they were intentional to the other party, they would scratch their palms three times, and the other party would agree to return three times, and if they had no intention, they would continue to dance as if nothing had happened. The two parties who are interested in each other will go out on a date to talk about their family relationships, and the relationship will be confirmed only after confirming that they are not blood relatives.

Lugu Lake, a beautiful fairyland-like place, naturally cannot miss the beautiful sunrise. Although I didn't see a particularly gorgeous morning glow due to the weather, I also experienced the quiet beauty of Lugu Lake.

On the lakeside observation deck, there are few pedestrians. A person walked alone by the lake, watching the glimmer of the morning light shine through the clouds, shining on the lake with a slight golden light, the years were quiet or the best description at this moment. Large dark clouds obscured the brilliant glow, and the golden glow made the lake as smooth as silk. Slowly walking back to the hotel from the lake, the wooden buildings on the side of the road are quaint and carved through time. "On the road... Connect the beautiful scenery, sights, and dreams with footprints into a lifeline", at this moment, I am obsessed with the dream in my heart walking on the road. The shops near the lake are not crowded with noisy tourists. Only quiet time guards this quiet lake. Two local women carrying bamboo baskets. Back to the hotel where I stayed, the courtyard in the hotel was quiet and infinitely beautiful in the glimmer of the morning light.

After breakfast in the hotel, we will take a boat to Rimubi Island. Liwubi Island is located in the central and southern part of Lugu Lake, and there is a Liwubi Temple built in 1587, which belongs to the Huangjiao Lama Temple, and the temple houses Buddha statues such as Shakyamuni and Guanyin.

Locals praying for blessings in front of the boat by the lake, monks sitting in front of the temple chanting. In the clouds and mist, the sound of chanting lingers, everything seems so unreal, as if it is already heaven and earth. Under the clear sky, the beautiful scenery of the blue water and clouds makes people stop, and the colorful prayer flags set against the sky with white clouds drifting. According to the local Mosuo people, the dress has a total of 365 pleats, representing 365 days of the year. This skirt used to be handmade, but now with the increasingly open villages, this fabric is already sold, and it can be cut directly. The beauty liked this traditional national costume, so we rented the national costume and took pictures before setting off by boat. As a result, we became the scenery in the eyes of many tourists wearing national costumes, so we also found a professional to help us take a group photo. As a Manchu, I have completely become a Mosuo woman in the eyes of others at this moment, hahaha...

After taking photos, we finally took a boat and headed straight for Ribubi Island in the lake.

Sitting on the boat, watching the lake blue flutter like the silk, the white clouds in the air are like flowers for the satin, and the light boat floats on the dreamlike soft brocade. Heaven on earth is nothing more than that. The clouds draped the mountains in an incomparably flowing brocade. The first six are all the members of our trip, and next to me is our director Su of this trip, a particularly dedicated and simple Yunnan person. We took a light boat to Ribby Island. Water, crystal clear. In the water several meters deep, you can see swaying aquatic plants gently swaying with the water waves. The reflection of the multicolored prayer flag becomes more vivid and eye-catching in the clear water. Full view of the temple. The original building was destroyed in a movement in the sixties, and this is the new Riewubi Monastery in the nineties. Riwubi Temple surrounded by green waters and green mountains. After circling the island, we abandoned the boat and landed on Ribby Island. Looking back, the green smoke by the lake is permeated, the light boat in the water breaks the waves, and the green mountains in the distance stretch, what a paradise. The girl who travels with you follows your grandparents to feel the beauty of traveling. A particularly cute and sensible girl, a bully in elementary school. Innocent smiling faces and clear big eyes bring us too much joy along the way. On the shore, the sound of chanting for blessings is faintly visible, and the smoke of incense with the sound of prayer has filled the lakeshore. It looks more like an ethereal cloud, more like a dreamlike wonderland.

When visiting Lugu Lake, you can choose a hotel next to the water by the lake, work with the sunrise and rest at sunset, and feel the quiet years of Lugu Lake.

I don't know if the Mosuo people have fulfilled Lugu Lake, or whether Lugu Lake has fulfilled the Mosuo people.

In short, Yang Erche Nam, who came out of Mosuo Lake, let too many people know about the marriage customs of the Mosuo people. This nation that has never married for a lifetime shocked the world.

And the hearsay custom of marriage has caused too many people to misunderstand. When you enter this ethnic village, into this village with primitive customs, you will unveil the mystery of the custom of marriage and understand the true face of the custom of marriage.

Mosuo people introduced: Local girls can participate in the monthly bonfire party after the age of thirteen (now the rise of tourism, as long as there are tourists, bonfire parties will be held, but unfortunately it is not as pure as before), when a boy has a good impression of him, he will scratch his palm three times during the bonfire party, if the woman intends, he will also scratch back three times, if he has no intention of dispersing.

Interested men and women go on a separate date, and tell each of their relatives that if there is no kinship, they will continue to get along, and the boy needs to climb to the girl's house on the second floor to spend the night. When the boy goes to the girl's house, he will bring a piece of dry food to feed the woman's guard dog, and the girl will use a belt to help the boy drag him to the second floor.

Only when the girl becomes a mother will she go to the village to tell the child's father, otherwise she will never know who the girl's boyfriend is.

And the children born were raised by their uncles. The child's father climbs up to the second floor every day to move in at the girl's house, and if the relationship between the two is not good, the child will return to the mother when they are separated. They will never get married in their lives, they will be together if they have a good relationship, and they will separate if they have a bad relationship. Therefore, it is rumored that the Mosuo people are very casual, but in fact they are not.

"The price of civilization is death".

When the life of modern civilization is getting closer and closer to us, those traditional customs and cultures are drifting away, and we are more and more yearning for the customs and cultures that are drifting away.

Humanity is moving forward in such a contradiction.

We waved goodbye to this beautiful Lugu Lake full of magical legends. Returning to the ancient city of Lijiang in the evening, my husband and I were deeply impressed by this ancient town when we first came to Lijiang twelve years ago.

It's just that twelve years later, the ancient city is still the same, but time has

passed····· The whole picture of the ancient city of Lijiang. The green brick cornices are full of the vicissitudes of history and the passage of time. These paintings are equally stop-moving. The alley is not yet dark, and it is quite quiet. As night falls, the neon lights in the ancient town shine, full of haze and blur, and a trace of indescribable haze. As dusk deepens, the bar street has become a sea of joy, and the silence in the depths of the alleys is disturbed by noisy music. From the bar near the window, you can see infinitely enchanting women dancing like snakes or singing soulfully. My friend and I really didn't like noisy bars, so we went deep into the alley, found a quiet place to sing folk songs, ordered a few songs, and said goodbye to this confusing place.

There is no youth that does not end, no trip that does not end, only the time that has not grown old slowly flows ······


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