With a yard and friends, I live in Dali

  • Number of days: 12 days
  • Average cost: 8000 yuan
  • With whom: a person
  • Tour kinds: humanities, petty bourgeoisie
  • The author went to these places: Dali Erhai Dali Ancient City Gantong Temple Cangshan Wuwei Temple Xizhou Shuanglang Panxi
  • Updated: 2020.11.28

Preface

I just finished a project and wanted to find a place where I could relax, the fast-paced city life made me yearn for a clean place, let everything slow down, and enjoy the life of fireworks, but I also don't give up my friends and give up convenience and nature. If there was a place where you could get away from the hustle and quiet life, and get close to nature, where would you think of? I have been to so many places, and the first thing that comes to my mind is Dali.

In Dali, happiness seems to have become simpler, countless people go thousands of miles to chase that poetry and distance at that glance, but they are unconsciously attracted by the city, live for a year, and finally stay for the rest of their lives.

Many years ago, I had the honor of seeing the simplicity and softness of Dali, but I didn't expect to set foot in this city again, live in the small courtyard of Dali, and walk into the courtyard life of friends. Baking and sitting in the sun, chatting and laughing around the stove under the starry sky, the definition of the word "yearning" in my consciousness seems to have found a completely different interpretation and possibility.

And this trip to Dali started from this small courtyard of Dali.

A courtyard, a kind of life

on the shore of Erhai Lake, leaning against the ancient city, white walls and black tiles instead of blue bricks, fences and small bamboo chairs, when I dragged my suitcase into the B&B in the small courtyard of Dali, I had the illusion of being separated from the world, as if I had isolated all the hurried burdens, leaving only the room full of comfort and relaxation. Take a deep breath, in early autumn in November, the pure air is filled with the fragrance of flowers, if life is a vacation, it is a luxury, then it can be imagined that every day of living here makes people yearn for it.

Climbing to the observation deck on the second floor, the morning light shone on the roof, afraid of missing any frame of Dali's beautiful scenery, and did not have time to pack his bags, so he only threw his luggage in a corner, and the exploration of Dali's small courtyard began. It stands in seclusion, located in the area of Qiliqiao Gantong Temple between Dali Ancient City and Xiaguan New City, backed by Cangshan Mountain and facing Erhai Lake, avoiding the hustle and bustle, strolling in it, feeling the natural quietness and ethereal. Such a scenery makes people feel open and open-minded, and the tension and panic of running around city life dissipate in an instant.

Cangshan Public Library is the "favorite" of the young people Chinese art in the courtyard. The immersive stepped seats, large floor-to-ceiling window design, and ingenious space construction make people want to take pictures of the scrunchie crazily, but also afraid of breaking the long-lost beauty and tranquility here.

The library has a lot of books, choose one at will, bask in the warm sunshine, read slowly, and be intoxicated. If your eyes are tired, you will lazily lean there, staring blankly at Erhai Lake for a while, not in a hurry, and let time pass by your fingertips in a hurry. Of course, it would be more pleasant if you could have a cup of tea or coffee in your hand at this time.

I heard that every weekend, community activities are organized here, and many artists, writers, and literary and artistic workers will gather here to share their lives, or screen an old movie, or hold a small art exhibition.

If you prefer a fun and playful reading environment, then I recommend you to go to the ins-style library in the Central District. Less than a 10-minute drive from the courtyard, a two-meter-tall pink giant giraffe surrounded by a wall of books is waving at you.

Compared to the Cangshan Public Library, it is more relaxed and agile, with circular bookshelves intertwined and a barrel-shaped slide connecting the two floors of reading space. If it weren't for the too many staff at the coffee bar, I would definitely be addicted!

The landscape on the grass opposite the library is a surprise on this trip to the library. The white border lines are arranged in a stacked shape, shuttling through them, and taking a shot casually, they are all blockbusters.

The sentence "occasionally, or all the time" is simply written into people's hearts, and walking around the surrounding model rooms always makes people feel the urge to stay.

Back in the small courtyard where I lived, it was noon, and my hungry body could no longer wait for the "complexity" of washing my hands and making soup, but the villagers' canteen was a good choice.The location is under the Cangshan Public Library, which also belongs to the small courtyard service facilities of Dali, and the high-quality chef team will always cook different dishes according to different seasons, without leaving the canteen door, enjoy the taste of Dali, and the lazy cancer family has a mouthful~

One day in the small courtyard, simple, woken up by the crisp birdsong in the morning, woken up in the first rays of sunshine in Dali, held a favorite book in the afternoon, took a sip of tea, wasted half a day, and at night, went to the alley commercial street of Dali to drink a cup of craft beer, accidentally looked up, and the sky was full of stars crashing into my eyes.

Is such a day your ideal life?

Poetry (food) and wine will always

feel a strong sense of belonging when there are friends in the years. When going to an appointment with an old friend, you always have to bring some "gifts". Early market is the best choice.

Dali's morning market is bustling and lively, leading to small shops on both sides of the market road, hardware groceries, peach blossom winemaking, food stalls, and grandmothers pulling peppercorns to sell at the door, strong fireworks, it's been a long time.

The way of buying groceries here is also quite "rustic", the locals carry big baskets to buy, pick vegetables to checkout, and throw them back, neat and crisp. Buy a bouquet of flowers at the entrance of the market and simply wrap it in old newspapers, and the wheat will definitely like it.

My friend, her name is Maizi, she used to work as a planner in a foreign company, and came to Dali from Shenzhen in 2015. He made his home in a small courtyard in Dali. It is backed by Cangshan, facing Erhai Lake, and her favorite kitchen.

wheat baking is a small yard of "wheat" in Dali, and I was greeted by a kitten in the yard~

At the

end of the seven turns, my old friend Maizi lives in a small courtyard in Dali. Her favorite kitchen and cute cat are greeting her at the door.

Due to our busy work, we are always used to rushing to the café in the morning to pack a cup of coffee and bread to solve things, and in Dali, at Maizi's house, Everything slows down, and an exquisite and tasty breakfast becomes possible.

The

fresh fruits I bought at the market in the morning came in handy, blueberries and strawberries, washed and diced, and under the guidance of Chef Wheat, scrape the batter flat and put it in the cooking machine. Sieve powder decoration, the first experience of waffles is complete!

When I saw what it looked like after the plating, I couldn't imagine that I made it myself, and I felt like I could open a store, haha! In fact, giving yourself an hour every morning is not only a healthy and delicious breakfast, but also a full sense of happiness throughout the day.

Share the exclusive recipe for wheat waffles
First, prepare the
ingredients: (Servings: 2 servings | Time: 6 minutes)
Egg: 1
low-gluten flour: 150g
Baking powder: 3g
White sugar: 10g
Corn oil: 15g
Milk: 200g
Vanilla extract: 2

drops of waffle powder Steps:
1. Crack the eggs into a conditioning basin, add white sugar and vanilla extract, and stir well.
2. Pour in the milk and stir well to blend the egg yolk with the egg white;
3. Take out the milk and pour 60ml of milk into another plate;
4. Take 150 grams of wheat flour, mix 50 grams of cake flour, add a little salt, pour into an empty plate, stir well;
5. Add the milk and hot butter prepared before, mix well and stir, stirring as you add until it becomes a thin paste, preferably viscous and homogeneous.

Baking steps
1. Preheat the waffle maker for 2 minutes;
2. Brush a layer of corn oil (cooking oil is also acceptable);
3. Pour in the entire waffle maker and heat until the lights go out, about 6-10 minutes;
4. Let it cool, the texture will be crispier, and then garnish with fruit.

Follow Maizi to see the pastoral canteen he is preparing.

The aesthetics of life and nature are integrated here, and exquisite household accessories enhance the sense of ceremony.

After the meal, I followed Maizi to see the pastoral canteen he was preparing, the garden was full of herbs with strange names, and I tasted them one by one with the wheat, the blue sky and white clouds, wooden houses and grass, coupled with exquisite household accessories, the aesthetics of life and nature were integrated here, as if I had mistakenly entered the world of Miyazaki's animation.

The long years, the morning light of the secret place of the small city

is

slightly dewy on this day, which is a good time to climb Cangshan through the clouds. When I had nothing to do, I took a cable car to the top of Cangshan Mountain and looked for the "Zhenlong Chess Game".



The prototype of the Zhenlong chess game is a fabricated plot in Mr. Jin Yong's martial arts masterpiece "Tianlong Babu", It was founded by Wu Yazi, the head of the Xiaoyao Sect, who wanted to borrow such a chess game to recruit a talented disciple.

Using drone aerial photography, overlooking the giant chess array surrounded by green pine trees, the martial arts rivers and lakes created by "Tianlong Babu" instantly appeared in my mind. The light of the sword and the shadow of the sword, the joy of enmity, the changes of the world, and the melancholy of thought.

Walking down from the Cangshan cable car and passing through a deep and secluded mountain road for about 10 minutes, the door of Jizhao Temple appears in front of you.

The whole courtyard does not have the solemnity of an ordinary monastery, nor is there incense lingering, and the succulents grow unusually lushly, with a wide variety of varieties, and other flowers and plants dotted with them. It is more like a private courtyard built by people who like to serve flowers and grass.

Our lunch today is solved here, don't underestimate the vegetarian food here, although the mountain road is rugged, but it attracts countless people. Before 11 o'clock, there was a long queue in the pick-up area. Although the door is not open, the aroma of the dishes has already wafted and overflowed. More than a dozen dishes are self-picked according to your preferences, and you can eat until you are full, but it should be noted that you must not have leftovers, a grain of rice and a stick of incense will be punished for kneeling, and everyone must "do what they can" when they come over.

TIPS:
Address: Follow the intersection of Gantong all the way up the mountain, you will reach the parking lot of Cangshan Geopark, you can walk to Gantong Temple, Jizhao Monastery, Dayun Hall, Polo Temple; Wuwei Temple is located north of the Three Pagodas Tunnel, and the car can drive all the way to the parking lot.
Per capita: 20 yuan/person for Jizhao Monastery, and some temples are happy.
Suggestion: A good place to visit on weekends, you can climb mountains and look far away, or you can sit quietly and meditate.

East of the small courtyard, the winding path leads to the secluded "village" appears. Coming out of Jizhao Monastery, we decided to go to the ancient tea horse road.

Fengyangyi Village, since the Yuan Dynasty, has been a post station of the Dali Ancient Post Road and part of the Dali section of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Ancient Road. When you walk to the entrance of the village, you feel like you are in another world, and the mottled white walls seem to lead people to a past era.

There is a courtyard in the village, near the side of a mountain full of catalpa trees, so it is named Catalpa Garden. Every brick and tile is made of local materials, unpretentious, but also exquisite, and the terrace on the second floor of the old courtyard can overlook Erhai Lake.

Wooden railings and earth-colored stone walls are intertwined, and the old handmade small items are very pleasing.

The boss's family is very Buddhist, the café hidden in the grass is all based on the mood to open, whether you can meet it is a chance, several visits, inevitably eat back the "closed door", So casual, I envy it to the extreme.


When you come to Dali, how can you not go to Xizhou?
Compared with the bustling ancient city of Dali, I love the simplicity and tranquility of Xizhou more. Although in winter, the rice is cut and the barren pastoral scenery is also intoxicating, and you can even imagine what kind of grand scene it will be when the rice fields are covered in summer.

As a place where the Bai people lived as early as the coexistence of Liuzhao and Heman, the architecture of Xizhou Ancient Town is the most worth exploring.

The basic form of traditional Bai houses is triad and courtyard, and the "square" of the three-bay room is the basic combination unit of the building. The triad is a typical combination form, consisting of three squares and a set of walls, called "three squares and one wall", with ear rooms and a leaky corner patio between the two gables. The courtyard house is composed of four square buildings to form a closed courtyard, with leaky corner patios at the four corners, plus courtyards, called "four in five courtyards".From this, two to four or five courtyards can be formed, which is called "heavy courtyard"

Walking everywhere in Xizhou Ancient Town, the streets in the ancient city, the old buildings around the corners are very illuminated, especially the wall of this Xilin Garden, with the characteristic buildings of the Bai ethnic group and the blue sky here, It is also a favorite place for tourists to check in when they come to Xizhou.

The interior art decoration of the building is also extremely exquisite, the eaves and walls, wood carved doors and windows, marble paintings, ancient well color carvings, etc., exquisite and exquisite, the streets in the ancient city, the old buildings at the corners are very shining, especially the wall of this Xilin Garden, with the characteristic buildings of the Bai nationality and the blue sky here, is also the favorite place for tourists to check in when they come to Xizhou.

In addition to the characteristic Bai buildings, of course, you can't miss the food here, if you want to find food, you can come to Sifang Street, which is the center of Xizhou Town, is the lively place of this quiet town, and all kinds of food shops have surrounded it into a small square.

The most familiar is Xizhou Baba, also known as broken crisp, several time-honored brands have long queues, all of which are bought and made into a pot, I remember many years ago, I ate salty and sweet ones, the sweet one is the rose brown sugar filling, the salty one is the pork and green onion filling, and now there are many innovative flavors.

the crowd to find "it"

is thousands of degrees in Dali, there are scenery everywhere, and if you have a lot of time to stop in Dali, compared to the double corridor with the "Internet celebrity halo", I would like to recommend you to go to the Panxi Ferry on Huanhai West Road.

Erhai Lake there is quiet and gentle, and the winding shoreline plank road. The lonely old tree standing, the light wind ripples, so beautiful that people can't move their steps.

Countless times on the beach, when I see locals walking their dogs, I always feel a burst of emotion and envy for no reason. This time I also realized my dream, taking my neighbor's dog for a walk on the shore of Erhai Lake, and this golden retriever named "Yuanbao" also filmed an advertisement with Ouyang Nana.

Sitting on the beach, listening to songs, stroking dogs in the sun and blowing the sea breeze, buying a cup of coffee and sitting under the trees to relax, the sea water is blue, the grass and trees are bright green, time is at this moment, and the body and mind are stretched to the greatest extent.

But Erhai Lake is not the only quiet appearance that people yearn for. In the past stereotype, Dali was Cangshan Erhai and idyllic, but standing on the side of Xingsheng Bridge, Dali's modernity and modernity, fashion and multi-dimensionality were fully displayed.

Exquisite and classical pier stone carvings, the romantic ultimate of the Seine River art bridge, this bridge seems to have the magic of traveling through time and across the country, walking under the Xingsheng Bridge, as if walking in Europe, where you can't go now, but you can feast your eyes in Dali.

In the afternoon, it was time to go to my "secret base" in the ancient city of Dali. In the eyes of tourists, the lively and prosperous "must-visit attractions" are deep, and the hidden sheet factory has a unique taste.

This is a very literary art park in Dali, once a bed linen factory in the 90s, transformed into an art park in 2014, there are many special handicraft shops, cafes, galleries, etc., it can be said to be the most literary place in the ancient city of Dali.

miscellaneous words, one of my favorite small shops. Push the door in, blues music, quiet and comfortable, the interior of the space is full of retro old feeling, and every corner is the yearning of people who like to collect.

The cups, small bowls, and ornaments from all over the world are displayed in the cabinet, each of which has been polished over the years and tells its own story.

Another Oasis Museum in Shimonoseki is also a niche café worth checking in.

In addition to retaining the original structure and style of the factory, the interior decoration adds a large number of green plants, injecting the element atmosphere of tropical rainforest into the original industrial style design, the softness of nature and the coldness of industry, the aroma of coffee and the stimulating taste buds of Southeast Asia, visual taste, double impact.

I believe that everyone who loves photography will not let go of a limited sunset chase. And this time, the off-the-beaten-path Winddam is our ultimate destination.

Since there was no guidance from the locals and no clear navigation signs, after 2 hours and countless trials and errors, I finally found this wide grassland.

Under the windmills, the shadows of the mountains are intertwined, and the panoramic view of the city floats under your feet, and it is like owning the whole world at that moment.Here has witnessed the prosperous changes of Xiaguan City in Dali, and also witnessed the happiest moments for countless couples who advocate romantic freedom, looking at their silhouettes under the sunset, lalarand seems to ring in the ears, Dali version of "La La Land"? There is an inner flavor~


This short three-day trip is actually just a microcosm of the Dali sojourn experience. The fireworks in the market and the time of friends in the small courtyard are all beautiful.
"Come occasionally" is just the beginning, when you see all the scenery of Dali, like me, you will find the secrets of the small city, and explore the ancient streets and alleys, you will also want to stay in Dali for the rest of your life.
If you are given a chance to get to know the southwest and walk into Dali now, will you be excited?


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