Entering the Holy Land of the Soul - Shangri-La (Part 2) - Ganden Songzanlin Monastery, Dukezong Ancient City,

  • Number of days: 10 days
  • Time: May
  • With whom: and friends
  • Updated: 2023.09.12

"Shangri-La" is a fictional and mysterious country that first appeared in British novelist James Hilton's novel Lost Horizon. This mysterious and harmonious place, located west of the Himalayas and surrounded by mountains, is protected by a Tibetan Buddhist monastery. Its residents live a life of immortality and happiness. After the novel's appearance, the name Shangri-La became synonymous with paradise on earth, ideal land, and utopia.

Due to the popularity of the concept of Shangri-La, several regions in China have vied to claim it as the true location of Shangri-La, including Diqing Zhongdian in Yunnan, Daocheng Yading in Sichuan, and Zayu, Bomi, and Nyingchi in Tibet. In September 1997, the Yunnan Provincial Government held a press conference in Zhongdian County, the capital of Diqing Prefecture, announcing that the world-sought-after paradise, Shangri-La, was in Diqing. The name "Shangri-La" echoes the Tibetan place name of the ancient city of Zhongdian, Niwangzong, meaning "the sun and moon in one's heart." On December 17, 2001, with the approval of the State Council, Zhongdian County was renamed Shangri-La County.

Shangri-La Yingbin Avenue stretches straight into the distance, seemingly reaching the horizon. The Shangri-La Harmony Tower is a majestic and iconic building. There are no tall buildings. Instead, the street trees are tall conifers with straight branches and handsome crowns. Against the backdrop of blue sky and white clouds, the streets appear ethereal and holy. src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1mf4712000c39qq8v8372_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" />

Ganden Sumtseling Monastery

Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, a famous tourist attraction in Shangri-La, is about 5 kilometers from the city center.

Please purchase your tickets at the Visitor Center first. Ganden Songzanlin Monastery is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan Province and the center of the Yellow Sect in the Sichuan-Yunnan region. Known as the "Little Potala Palace," the monastery resembles an ancient castle and embodies the pinnacle of Tibetan plastic arts. The monastery houses eight gilded Buddha statues from the reigns of the Fifth and Seventh Dalai Lamas, palm-leaf sutras, thangkas intricately painted in multicolored gold, and golden lamps. These valuable items have earned it the nickname "Tibetan Art Museum."

Songzanlin Monastery, modeled after the Potala Palace in Lhasa, is built along the mountainside, with layers of buildings rising in staggered steps. Set against the unique blue sky and white clouds of the plateau, it appears majestic and magnificent. The two main halls, Zhacang and Jikang, are located at the highest point and central to the monastery. The main halls are majestic and magnificent, with vibrant and delicate murals depicting historical events and promoting Buddhist teachings. Ganden Songzanlin Monastery, also known as Guihua Monastery, holds a pivotal position in Tibet. Construction began in 1679 (the eleventh cycle of the Tibetan calendar, the Year of the Earth Sheep) and was completed in 1681 (the Year of the Iron Rooster). The Fifth Dalai Lama personally bestowed the name "Ganden Songzanlin" upon the monastery. The monastery boasts a sturdy, thick, oval wall with five gates. The red plaque with golden characters "Ganden Songzanlin Monastery" was inscribed by Mr. Zhao Puchu, former president of the Buddhist Association of China and a famous calligrapher.

The red plaque with golden characters "Ganden Songzanlin Monastery" was inscribed by Mr. Zhao Puchu, former president of the Buddhist Association of China and a famous calligrapher.

Similar to the architectural pattern of Tibetan Buddhism, the two main halls of Songzanlin Monastery, Zhacang and Jikang, stand majestically in the center, surrounded by eight Kangcan halls, monks' quarters and other buildings, which are arranged in a staggered manner with progressive layers and clear outlines, fully highlighting the grandeur of the main building. Climb 147 steps to reach the two main halls at the temple's highest point. The five-story, north-facing halls are carved into Tibetan style. The upper floors feature gilded copper tiles, and the corners feature ornate eaves with animal-shaped ornaments, reflecting the architectural style of Han Chinese temples. The lower hall boasts 108 pillars, representing an auspicious number in Buddhism.

On both sides of the red-carpeted passage are square Tibetan-style buildings with distinctive doors, windows and eaves, carved and painted.

Many tourists (mostly girls) wear full sets of Tibetan costumes and pose in various postures for photos, which has become a new scene in the temple.

The temple architecture embodies the essence of Tibetan religious culture. The buildings are magnificent and the shapes are colorful, which is amazing.

Xiangcheng Kangcan, Kangcan is a branch temple, which is a monastic organization of different dioceses.

Below the main halls of Zhacang and Jikang, there are eight Kangcans: Dongwang, Zhaya, Duoke, Jidi, Xiangcheng, Zhuo, Yangtang and Rongba, representing the eight-petal lotus, which symbolizes the Buddhist holy land of Songzanlin Monastery, which is detached from the world and pure and auspicious.

Baden Rongba Khamchan of Ganden Songzanlin Monastery in Shangri-La.

The Zhacang Hall was built between the 18th and 20th years of Emperor Kangxi's reign in the Qing Dynasty. It is a five-story Tibetan-style carved building supported by 116 pillars. It is built with bracket sets and vajra beams. In Tibetan areas, these pillars are called auspicious pillars. The architectural style and murals of the hall reflect the highest standards of the temple.

Main Square

Plaque on the door: Shangri-La Ganden Songzanlin Monastery Yangtang Kangcan

This area belongs to Yangtang Kangshen, and there are signs on the doors.

The small words on the lintel: Yangtang Kangshen

The lintel is the same as above: Yangtang Kangshen

Back to the temple gate, it only took an hour to go up and down, and it was just a quick tour.

The large archway in front of the visitor center is magnificent with carved beams and painted buildings.

After leaving Songzanlin Temple, we wanted to visit Dukezong Ancient Town. The driver looked hesitant, implying we didn't have enough time. However, seeing we were determined, he still took us there. Actually, it was only 4:37 PM, and the ancient town is located in the city, only 6 kilometers away from Songzanlin Temple, so it wouldn't take long.

Dukezong Ancient Town

The ancient town is located on Kangzhu Avenue in Shangri-La. The driver drove straight into the scenic area gate. After getting off the car, we looked back at the ancient town gate. During the Yifeng and Tiaolu years of the Tang Dynasty (676-679 AD), the Tibetans established a fortress on the top of Mount Dagui. They named it "Dukezong," a Tibetan word that means "castle built on stone" and "moonlight city." The ancient city was later built around the fortress.

Moonlight Impression·Local Goods Sale, it’s like a big store inside, you can just take a look and leave.

Diqing Red Army Long March Museum is located on the north side of Sun and Moon Square in Dukezong Ancient Town. The exhibition hall displays ships, guns, slogans, documents and books used by the Red Army, as well as lanterns, medicine boxes, grain bags, kettles and other daily necessities. There are also a large number of pictures introducing little-known stories of the Long March. In the summer of 1936, the Second Front Army of the Red Army passed through Zhongdian during the Long March. He Long and Xiao Ke visited Songzanlin Monastery, met with the Living Buddha and lamas, and presented a brocade scroll with the inscription "Prosperity of the Tribes." Songzanlin Monastery opened its granaries to collect over 20,000 kilograms of grain for the Red Army and sent monks to serve as guides, supporting the Red Army's march north to fight against the Japanese. This glorious chapter has gone down in the annals of revolutionary history.

Dukezong Ancient Town was an important town and hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and the first stop for horse caravans entering Tibet. In 2001, Dukezong Ancient Town was designated a Famous Historical and Cultural City in Yunnan Province.

Atop Turtle Hill, next to Moonlight Square in the heart of the ancient city, stands the magnificent Jokhang Temple, a landmark of the ancient city. Beneath the temple stands the Guinness World Record-winning prayer wheel, atop a gilded copper structure. It requires at least 10 people to turn it, and locals say turning it three times clockwise is a sign of blessing. From here, you can also enjoy panoramic views of the ancient city and the new Shangri-La district. At the foot of Turtle Mountain lies an ancient well, providing clear, sweet drinking water for the entire ancient city. Many years ago, groups of young women would flock to the well every morning, carrying their backs to the water, creating a beautiful scene in the ancient city. "Dukzong" means "white stone city" in Tibetan, implying a "moonlight city." Because the local white clay can be used as a coating for exterior walls, the exterior walls of the ancient city are all painted white. On moonlit nights, the bright moonlight casts a striking, enchanting glow on the white city, earning it the name "Dukzong."

Legend has it that the city was built after a living Buddha, while gazing at the ancient city from atop a hill opposite it, noticed that Turtle Mountain resembled Guru Padmasambhava sitting on a lotus. Therefore, the layout of the ancient city was shaped like an eight-petal lotus, creating a naturally varied space.

The ancient city's architectural layout is like an eight-petal lotus, with Moonlight Square at its center and quaint Tibetan wooden houses surrounding it. It is the best-preserved and largest Tibetan residential complex in China.

On January 11, 2014, Dukezong Ancient City suffered a sudden fire, causing huge losses. Many buildings in the ancient city were rebuilt after the disaster. I really wanted to see the famous prayer wheel, and get as close as possible, but after walking halfway around Turtle Mountain, I couldn't find a suitable spot. I didn't want to climb the mountain either, as there are supposedly over a hundred steps, and going up and down would take too long, and I couldn't keep the driver waiting too long.

The prayer wheel stands in the Big Buddha Temple on the top of Guishan Mountain. It is about 5 stories high. The wheel body is pure copper plated with gold. The upper end of the wheel wall is engraved with relief seals of Manjusri, Samantabhadra, Guanyin and Ksitigarbha, and the lower end is engraved with the Eight Treasures of Buddhism. There are also 1.24 million sutras, mantras, wordless mantras and many other Buddhist treasures hidden in the wheel.

The streets and alleys of the ancient city are full of Tibetan style, accompanied by a strong commercial atmosphere. You can walk around without eating or shopping, just take in the sights and enjoy the excitement.

It feels like there are fewer tourists here than in Dali and Lijiang. Of course, the scale of the ancient town seems to be smaller as well.

A white pagoda. It is said that the famous Tibetan restaurants in Shangri-La are all gathered near the white pagoda in the ancient city. I wonder if this is Sifang Street?

We took a quick glance and stayed in the ancient city for about 40 minutes before heading back home to the hotel. Shangri-La City

Shangri-La City, formerly known as Zhongdian County and its Tibetan name Jiantang, means "sun and moon in the heart." It is located in northwestern Yunnan Province, at the junction of Yunnan, Sichuan, and Tibet. On May 10, 1950, Zhongdian County was peacefully liberated and retained its name. In December 2001, Zhongdian County was renamed Shangri-La County. In December 2014, the abolition of Shangri-La County and the establishment of Shangri-La City were officially approved.

Stay at the Hilton Garden Inn Shangri-La, conveniently located in the heart of Shangri-La at 144 Changzheng Avenue. Dukezong Ancient Town and Songzanlin Temple are each approximately a 10-minute drive away.

Hotel lobby

The hotel service is satisfactory. I asked for a quiet room at the front desk and I got it. The buildings outside the window are a bit dense, but the scenery in the distance is beautiful, with rolling hills, blue sky and white clouds.

The buildings outside the window are a bit dense, but the scenery in the distance is beautiful, with rolling hills, blue sky and white clouds.

The Tibetan-style windows of the hotel building can be seen from the side.

After settling in, I took a short rest and went out to find a place to eat and take in the city.

There is also a small river in the city, the Nakqu River.

I didn’t want to walk too far, so I entered Gezan Street. There were many restaurants, but not many diners. After looking around and comparing, I walked into a dumpling shop that also served a variety of stir-fried dishes. The owner was from Northeast China.

Travel Fun Fact: I ordered rice and three dishes, one of which was fried small yellow croaker. I almost finished the other two dishes, but the fish still hadn't arrived. I asked the kitchen, and they told me it was being cooked. After waiting a bit, the owner came in with a bag of frozen yellow croaker. It turned out he had gone out to buy fish. The owner was very nice and returned the dish with an apology.

After the meal, we walked back to the hotel and visited a nearby roundabout. The sun had already set, but the clouds were still red.

Between the two square and steady Tibetan-style buildings, there is a sculpture of a knight riding a horse at full speed. The silhouette effect is very attractive.

The two buildings are both hotels, one is Yunmeng Bay and the other is Vienna. Shangri-La, a small plateau city, has become a place where tourists from all over the world come to seek their dreams of paradise.

Shangri-La average altitude 3459 meters. The temperature in the room felt a little low at night, so I put on a sweater, autumn johns and a coat. I didn't dare to take a shower and slept well all night.


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