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[Okitsu Post Town] (Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture, former province name: Suruga)



During the Edo period, the Tokaido was equipped with post towns known as the "53 Stations," and rapidly developed as a key route for the flow of people and goods in Japan. As symbolized by the alternate attendance system, large-scale traffic continued, and the post towns expanded over time, and their recognition gradually spread. In particular, when Utagawa Hiroshige (1797-1858) and others depicted the scenery of the road in ukiyo-e prints, the post towns and the road themselves became tourist destinations, and their influence crossed the sea to show a firm presence in the history of art around the world. The climate that symbolizes the charm of the Tokaido is rooted in Suruga Province (present-day eastern Shizuoka Prefecture), and each post town has retained its appearance even in modern times, inheriting its unique culture.

Okitsu was the 17th post station on the Tokaido road, counting from Edo, and was located to the east of Sunpu, the capital of Suruga Province. It was located on a plain separated by mountains as a rest area, just beyond the Sattata Pass, known as a difficult passage, and was also a key point at the intersection with the Koshu Kaido road. Due to this topography, in ancient times, Kiyomi Pass fortified the route and played a role in monitoring the road as a gateway to the eastern provinces. Seikenji Temple (photos 1-6) is a famous temple that has been a cultural and scenic symbol of Okitsu since ancient times when Kiyomi Pass flourished. It was originally a Tendai sect temple, but was converted to the Rinzai sect during the Kamakura period, and flourished in the Middle Ages under the generous protection of the Imagawa clan, the guardian of Suruga Province. Seigenji Temple not only serves as a fortress to guard Suruga, but also often hosts dignitaries due to its superb location overlooking Suruga Bay. The Imagawa clan hosted Shogun Ashikaga Yoshinori (1394-1441), Tokugawa Ieyasu hosted Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and the Edo Shogunate hosted Korean envoys at Seigenji Temple. As a result, the temple grounds are still home to historic gardens and cultural artifacts, which show its particularly close ties with Tokugawa Ieyasu. Not only is it said that the stonework of the scenic garden was laid out by Ieyasu, but it is also said that Ieyasu practiced calligraphy in a room at Seigenji Temple during his childhood as a hostage of the Imagawa clan, and the remains of the "calligraphy room" can still be seen in a corner of the Daihojo. Above all, the view of the calm Suruga Bay across the Tokaido Main Line tracks allows you to fully experience the emotions of those who passed through this area in the past.

In modern times, the post town ceased to function as a post town, but Okitsu became known as a place for important people in the political and financial world to have villas. Among them, Saionji Kinmochi (1849-1940) is known as a person who is so closely connected to the area that he is now synonymous with Okitsu. Starting with his achievements in the Boshin War, through his activities in the "Keien era," and wielding hidden power as a "genro" (elder statesman) until just before the Pacific War, Saionji, who was in step with modern Japan, opened "Zagyoso" (photos 7-10) in Okitsu in 1920. From then on, he spent most of his time in Okitsu until his death in 1940, guiding and worrying about the future of Japan. It is said that he had deep interactions with the local citizens in Okitsu, and the restored Zagyoso residence introduces a wide range of aspects of Saionji's real life and personality that are not mentioned in textbooks. The expressions and feelings of Saionji, who escaped the dust and dirt of Tokyo as the times slowly drew closer to a darker era, are captured in the elegant furnishings and old photographs of Zagyoso. Zagyoso, where Saionji lived, was moved to Meijimura in Inuyama City, Aichi Prefecture, and the one currently standing in Okitsu was restored by volunteers in 2004. However, the house has faithfully preserved the original design from when Saionji lived, and the careful attention paid to even the materials used can be understood even more deeply by sitting down in the tatami room. When the pale setting sun shines on the shoji screens on the second floor facing south, as you gaze at the dappled sunlight filtering through the trees from the dimly lit interior of the residence, you can hear the sound of the waves and the whistles of ships from afar. The indescribable charm of the place seems to evoke the thoughts and memories of the many people who loved Okitsu.

Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★★ (You can explore to your heart's content. It's almost a private venue!)

Visit date: Around 4pm on the third Saturday of February

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | May 4, 2025

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