Step into Shenzha County's Bazaar: A "Handmade Costume Museum" Hidden on the Plateau

In Shenzha, I wore the most distinctive attire of northern Tibet—a national intangible cultural heritage!

In Shenzha County, Tibet, a group of artisans still uphold their ancestors' sartorial wisdom. Bazaar costumes may lack flashy marketing, but they perfectly fuse "practicality" and "beauty."

Take this "walking jewelry box" on my head—the headdress, composed of Baguo, Balong, and Dale, might seem like an extravagant ornament at first glance, but it’s ingeniously functional: in the windy pastoral areas, these metal adornments not only signify status but also secure the headscarf, staying put even while herding on horseback.

Then there’s the robe, made of thick pulu fabric. Though it feels like coarse linen, it’s incredibly durable. With the plateau’s drastic day-night temperature swings, the robe doubles as a windproof coat by day and a simple bedding at night. The pleats aren’t just for style—when bending to milk cows or gather dung, the wide hem acts as a makeshift "pocket," handy for carrying salt bags or keys.

My favorite? The leather belt! Don’t underestimate the conch shells, copper mirrors, and other "trinkets" hanging from it. While herding, a quick reach yields a copper spoon for water, a mirror to check the path, or a conch shell to whistle for yaks. Tightening the belt not only accentuates the waist but also protects against the cold during labor.

Today, younger wearers might simplify the accessories for daily wear, but they still don the full regalia for festivals. Legend has it, these costumes were born watching grandmothers sit under eaves, meticulously stitching pulu with bone needles—each thread weaving wisdom. Suddenly, it’s clear: this isn’t just clothing; it’s nomadic ingenuity and generational stories worn on the body.

As a unique ethnic attire of Tibet, Bazaar costumes also carry a fascinating tale: Princess Drukmo of King Gesar, captured by King Hor, cleverly feigned madness in the eccentric Bazaar dress to protect her virtue, earning it the nickname "mad costume."

If you visit Shenzha, don’t miss the local market. Watch sunlight glint off the headdress’s copper plates, casting dappled light on smiling faces, and listen to the soft chime of belt ornaments with each step—this is the living tradition in its truest form.

Post by Mason Turner | May 26, 2025