Self-driving tour along the Yunnan-Guizhou Grand Loop (Part 7)

Number of days：61 days
Time: October
Average cost: 10,000 yuan
With whom: husband and wife
Updated: 2024.06.22

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">November 2, 2023, Wednesday, Day 18 of the itinerary: Weishan County to Dali City, visit Dali Ancient Town.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Weishan County → Dali Yunzhishangyun Chain Apartment (Erhai Park Branch) → Dali Ancient Town Three Pagodas Reflection Park → Dali Yunzhishangyun Chain Apartment (Erhai Park Branch), driving distance: 82.9 kilometers.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Today we will depart for Dali. Dali City, a county-level city and the prefecture's seat under the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, is located on the Erhai Plain on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, at the foot of Cangshan Mountain and on the shores of Erhai Lake. Dali was the capital of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom and Dali Kingdom, serving as the political, economic, and cultural center of ancient Yunnan for over 500 years. Dali City, primarily inhabited by the Bai ethnic minority, ranked first among China's first ten most charming cities and, in 1982, was designated one of the first 24 National Historical and Cultural Cities. Major scenic spots and historical sites within Dali City include Dali Old Town, Cangshan World Geopark, and the Erhai Scenic Area (a series of smaller scenic areas). Cangshan Geopark received low reviews from travellers, so I decided to skip it. I planned to spend two days in Dali: on the first day, I'd explore Dali Old Town, including the surrounding Three Pagodas Reflection Park and Chongsheng Temple; on the second day, I'd take a self-guided drive around Erhai Lake (which I didn't actually do).

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Our original plan was to stay in Cai Village, on the shores of Erhai Lake, as it's a scenic spot in itself and relatively close to Dali Ancient Town. However, since we'd stayed at the Yunzhishang Hotel in Weishan and had a good experience there, we asked the front desk lady to book us into the Yunzhishang Apartment Hotel in Dali. This turned out to be a bad decision. While the hotel was in the city, and the scenic area wasn't too far away, we still had to go in and out of the city, especially during rush hour, so traffic jams were inevitable. Traveling in and out of the city for two days would have wasted quite a bit of time.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Upon arrival in Dali, we checked in at the hotel and then headed to Dali Ancient Town. Since Dali Ancient Town, Three Pagodas Reflection Park, and Chongsheng Temple are all very close together, with Three Pagodas Reflection Park centrally located, we decided to visit Three Pagodas Reflection Park first, park our car there, and then explore on foot and by bus. This saved us parking fees and the time it takes to find parking, as Dali is crowded with tourists and parking spaces can be difficult to find.

Entrance to the Three Pagodas Reflection Park src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">The Three Pagodas Reflection Park is located approximately 800 meters south of the east gate of the Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas Cultural Tourism Area. Entry requires a separate ticket or a combined ticket. The Three Pagodas Reflection Park, as its name suggests, is named after the majestic reflections of the three pagodas of Chongsheng Temple in the park's pool. The park's "Three Pagodas Reflection Pool" is one of the best spots for photographing the three pagodas, offering stunning views of the park from behind and their reflections in the pool. Many visitors come here specifically to take commemorative photos.

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">In the Chongsheng Temple scenic area, the three pagodas are so tall and spaced apart that capturing them as a backdrop is difficult. However, in the Reflection Park, visitors can capture not only the three pagodas but also their reflections, as well as the Yangbo Pavilion, the small island, and their reflections.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Today's weather was beautiful, though a slight breeze kept the water from reaching mirror-like level, resulting in blurry reflections.

Three Pagodas Gathering Pool

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">The Three Pagodas Gathering Pool is a small pond, covering an area of about ten acres.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">After exiting the park, walk north to Chongsheng Temple.

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple

The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple are located 1.5 kilometers northwest of Dali Ancient Town, backed by Cangshan Mountain to the west, facing Erhai Lake to the east, flanked by Taoxi River to the south, and Meixi River to the north. The three towers consist of one large and two smaller ones, standing in a tripod-like formation. The large tower stands in the center, protruding forward, while the two smaller towers flanked it to the north and south. The large tower, named "Qianxun Tower," has different records of its construction date, but experts have determined that it most likely dates to the Quanfengyou period of the Nanzhao dynasty (823-859 AD). The Qianxun Tower is a 16-story, square, dense-eaves, hollow brick tower, a typical Tang Dynasty architectural style, standing 69.13 meters tall. The two smaller towers to the north and south, with their tapered outlines, are typical Song Dynasty architectural styles. Constructed during the reigns of Duan Zhengyan and Duan Zhengxing of the Dali Kingdom (1108-1172 AD), the two smaller towers are 97 meters apart and each stands 42.19 meters tall. They form a pair of 10-story, octagonal, dense-eaves brick towers. Qianxun Pagoda (Big Pagoda), with Yingle Peak of Cangshan Mountain at its back Behind Qianxun Pagoda src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Go around the three pagodas and go up along the middle avenue. There are many Buddhist buildings along the way, but most of them are newly built. I didn't have much interest in them and just took a quick look at the exterior. The Nanzhao Jianji Bell Tower, originally named Shenggai Tower, was built in 871 AD, the 12th year of the Nanzhao Jianji reign. It is a double-eaved wooden structure. Unfortunately, the original bell tower was destroyed during the reigns of Emperors Xianfeng and Tongzhi of the Qing Dynasty. The current bell tower, rebuilt in 1997, stands 19.97 meters tall. The large Jianji bell hanging in the bell tower was designed by the Beijing Ancient Bell Museum based on historical materials and cast by the Nanjing Chenguang Machinery Factory. Yutong Guanyin Hall src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Yutong Guanyin Hall was originally built in 899 AD, the second year of the Nanzhao Restoration. According to Xu Xiake's Travel Notes, a high monk at Chongsheng Temple vowed to raise funds throughout his life to cast a bronze Guanyin statue to pray for peace and prosperity for the country and the people. "The casting process involved using a mold in three sections. The upper part below the shoulders was cast first, and the copper was already complete. Suddenly, copper rained down like pearls. The crowd scooped up the copper and melted it, forming the head, hence the name." The current building and the Guanyin statue were rebuilt in 1999 for the World Expo.

Yutong Guanyin Temple

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">I really didn't feel like going any further up here, and my feet hurt too, so I turned back down the mountain. Actually, we haven't reached Chongsheng Temple yet, so I hope you won't follow my example. Since we're here, we should still go to the top.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Exit the Chongsheng Temple scenic area and take bus No. 4 to the South Gate of Dali Ancient City. The West Gate (Cangshan Gate) is actually closer to the bus stop, while the South Gate bus stop is a short walk from the South Gate entrance.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Dali Ancient City, also known as Yeyu City and Purple City, dates back to the Tianbao period of the Tang Dynasty, when King Geluofeng of Nanzhao built Yangzhumie City as his new capital. For over 500 years during the Tang and Song dynasties, it served as the political, economic, and cultural center of Yunnan. Construction of the existing ancient city began in the 15th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1382) and covers an area of 3 square kilometers. The Dali Ancient City Scenic Area is the core tourist area of Dali and a national 4A-level scenic area. Within the ancient city are 14 key cultural relics protected at the municipal level and above, representing Dali's historical, religious, and ethnic cultures.

Passing by Boai Gate

South City Gate

The South City Gate is the first of the four gates of the ancient city. It has a history of more than 600 years. It is the oldest and most magnificent building in the ancient city and is the symbol and landmark of Dali Ancient City. The south tower above the city gate is called Shuanghe Tower, also known as Cheng'en Tower. It was rebuilt in 1984, and the city wall was restored on the site of the original wall in 1998. The architectural style retains the original Ming Dynasty style.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">The word "Dali" on the city gate was written by Guo Moruo during his visit to Dali in 1961. "Dali" is the name of the country, meaning "to govern Dali, to enrich the country and prosper the nation."

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Entering the city gate, I began my free-wheeling wandering, without a planned destination or set route, simply wandering wherever I went.

Originally, Wuhua Tower served as the state guesthouse of the Nanzhao King. When Kublai Khan conquered Dali, he stationed troops there. In the early Ming Dynasty, Wuhua Tower burned down during war. During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, when the ancient city of Dali was rebuilt, a bell and drum tower was constructed on the site of Wuhua Tower. However, its scale and layout were far inferior to those of the Nanzhao Wuhua Tower.

Dali Catholic Church

Dali Catholic Church is located on Xinmin Road in Dali Ancient Town. In 1874, the first year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty, the French missionary Ronnie rebuilt the property he bought. In 2002, the church was fully renovated again.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">The church faces east and west. Unlike the Gothic Catholic churches commonly seen in the West, the main building's wooden structure is a combination of raised beams and through-beams, which is very similar to the Bai people's houses with corridors on both sides.

Erhai Gate

Erhai Gate is the east gate of Dali Ancient City. Although it is called Erhai Gate, it is about 5 or 6 kilometers away from Erhai Lake. This is due to changes in topography and water resources. Erhai Lake has shrunk in area and gradually moved away from the ancient city, just as the saying goes, "The sea changes with time."

Three Pagoda Gate (Inside the City) src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Three Pagoda Gate is the north gate of Dali Ancient City, also known as "Anyuan Gate". Built in 1382 AD, it is one of the four gates of the ancient city. The roof of the tower adopts the high-grade double-eaved hip-and-gable style in Chinese palace architecture, retaining the architectural style of the Ming Dynasty.

Three Pagoda Gate (outside the city)

Due to time constraints, I only explored a small portion of Dali Ancient Town, visiting three of the four city gates and skipping the West Gate (Cangshan Gate). My overall impression of the ancient town was that it wasn't as good as I had imagined, feeling a bit overly commercialized and homogenized.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Exit the north gate and walk to the Three Pagodas Reflection Park parking lot, where I picked up my car and returned to my hotel.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">November 3, 2023 Thursday, the 19th day of the itinerary, visiting Erhai Lake

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Actual itinerary: Dali Yunzhishangyun Chain Apartment (Erhai Park Branch) → Cai Village → Haishe Ecological Park → Butterfly Spring → Dali Yunzhishangyun Chain Apartment (Erhai Park Branch), mileage: 93.3 kilometers

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Today's planned itinerary was to drive around Erhai Lake for a week, but in fact only half of it was completed. Erhai Lake lies east of Dali Ancient City, at the foot of the lush Cangshan Mountains. Its azure blue waters are renowned for their breathtaking natural beauty and charming villages and towns, making it one of Dali's four most famous scenic spots. src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">First Stop: Cai Village

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp"> Cai Village, located east of Dali Ancient City and on the west bank of Erhai Lake, was a quiet and picturesque village where the Bai people lived for generations, fishing as a livelihood. The village boasts numerous well-preserved ancient Bai architecture, including the God of Wealth Temple, the Benzhu Temple, the Kuixing Pavilion, and clan ancestral halls. However, its most renowned features are the wharf and lakeside wetlands. Their breathtaking scenery has become a favorite among photographers, and Cai Village has gradually gained widespread fame. Later, the government transformed the area adjacent to Erhai Lake into the Erhai Wetland Park, establishing the Cai Village Scenic Area. Leveraging its natural beauty and cultural heritage, the village boasts over 120 inns and 20 restaurants, many of which are located along the lake, offering rooms with panoramic sea views. Cai Village is now the largest tourist attraction among the Bai villages surrounding Erhai Lake, and it is also the most visited natural and primitive village. It is bustling, but the freshness and tranquility of the past are gone. We spent an hour looking for a parking lot, and this is the off-season.

Caicun Wetland

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">We walked along the lake for a while and left without entering the village.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Second stop: Haishe Ecological Park

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Haishe Ecological Park is located on the west shore of Erhai Lake. It is a narrow peninsula extending into the lake, approximately 3-4 kilometers from Xizhou Ancient Town. The island's scenery is pristine, with large tracts of trees and long wormwood grass. The Erhai Lake here is also exceptionally clear and azure, creating a refreshing and beautiful scene, perfect for photographing.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">To reach Haishe Ecological Park, you'll need to pass through Xizhou Ancient Town. Most tourists typically visit both Xizhou Ancient Town and Haishe Ecological Park together, but we'd seen so many ancient villages, towns, and cities in recent days that we were a bit tired, so we skipped Xizhou Ancient Town and went straight to Haishe Park. The public parking lot at Haishe Park is quite far from the park entrance. During peak season, you can take a shuttle bus, but off-season, you'll have to walk. Fortunately, there are large expanses of grass, reeds, and woods along the way, making for a nice view.

Rose Avenue src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1mf0x12000ejskgrn8CA1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" />

Collaboration of Light and Shadow

I finally made it to the park entrance, but couldn't get in. It turns out that Sea Tongue National Park requires advance reservations, supposedly to protect the local ecosystem from the influx of tourists. However, if you're willing to pay 68 yuan for a cup of tea at a teahouse in the park, you can enter. While I wasn't broke enough to afford 68 yuan, I didn't want to be ripped off, so I turned back the way I came. I recommend making reservations in advance if you're planning to visit Sea Tongue National Park.

Couple Tree

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">Third Stop: Butterfly Spring

Entrance of Butterfly Spring Scenic Area

The entrance to the scenic area is a little distance away from the spring, about ten minutes' walk. There are also electric cars that can reach the spring, but the wait time is longer during the off-season. This is a stone archway with strong Dali Bai architectural features and a typical example of Dali Bai architecture. The entire stone archway is built with local Dali bluestone strips. The three characters "Butterfly Spring" in the middle are inscribed by the great writer Guo Moruo. It is a square spring pool with an area of more than 50 square meters and a water depth of six meters. The spring water is crystal clear, with strings of silver bubbles bubbling out from time to time. The rich ions give the water a fantastical blue-green color, making it quite beautiful.

Butterfly Tree src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">By the pond stands a large tree, known as the Butterfly Tree. One of its branches lies across the spring like a green dragon.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">The water in the pool is emerald blue, surrounded by marble railings. On the marble wall of the Butterfly Spring are inscribed the three characters "Butterfly Spring" written by Guo Moruo.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">The Butterfly Spring is home to a diverse array of butterflies. Every year from March to May, butterflies ranging from the size of a palm to the size of a bee hang in clusters from the albizzia trees surrounding the spring. April 15th is designated by the Bai people as the Butterfly Festival. The legend of the Butterfly Spring's name: Legend has it that long ago, at the foot of Yunnong Peak in Cangshan Mountain, lived the beautiful Bai girl Wengu. Atop Yunnong Peak lived the brave and kindhearted Bai young hunter Xialang, who were happily in love. Later, a prince fell in love with Wengu and abducted her into the palace. One rainy night, Xialang sneaked into the palace and rescued her. They fled to the Bottomless Pond, where they were surrounded by pursuing soldiers. Xialang fought bravely, but was outnumbered. He and Wengu, holding hands, jumped into the pond together, forcing the soldiers to retreat. At dawn, the cockcrow crowed, the rain subsided, and the sky was filled with rosy clouds. From the Bottomless Pond, a pair of colorful butterflies flew out, chasing each other, inseparable. Countless butterflies flew in from all directions, competing in their graceful dance. In order to commemorate Xialang and Wengu, the ancestors of the Bai nationality renamed the bottomless pool to Butterfly Spring and designated the 15th day of the fourth lunar month, the day they committed suicide, as the Butterfly Festival.

Five Dragon Pond: Water from the Butterfly Spring overflows through five stone dragon heads, gushing down from their mouths in a scene reminiscent of five dragons spitting water and splashing waves. Five small pools below, with water splashing in all directions, create the illusion of "clear springs flowing over rocks."

Lover's Lake

Lover's Lake is a lake formed by the stream flowing out of Butterfly Spring. It covers an area of 6,000 square meters and the water is clear and transparent.

src="/travelogue/China/Yunnan/4137542/56.webp">It was already around 4pm when we left Butterfly Spring. Looking at the map, I hadn't even completed half of my Erhai Lake circumnavigation plan. I figured I wouldn't have enough time, so I decided to head back to the hotel early to rest.