Yunnan-Guizhou Grand Loop Self-Driving Tour (Part 8)

Number of days：61 days
Time: October
Average cost: 10,000 yuan
With whom: husband and wife
Updated: 2024.07.06

November 4, 2023 Friday, Day 20 of the itinerary Dali City via Yunlong Tai Chi (Yunlong County) to Shaxi Ancient Town (Jianchuan County)

Actual itinerary: Dali Yunzhishangyun Chain Apartment (Erhai Park Branch) → Yunlong Tai Chi Observation Deck → Shaxi Ancient Town, driving distance: 270.6 kilometers

After finishing their tour in Dali, self-driving tourists usually head directly north to Lijiang. However, while doing my research, I found several attractions in Yunlong and Jianchuan counties, northwest of Dali City, that piqued my interest, so I decided to make a detour. Yunlong is a county under the jurisdiction of Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. It's located approximately 130 kilometers northwest of Dali City, with its county seat in Nuodeng Town. During my research, I selected three attractions: Yunlong Tai Chi, Yunlong Tianchi Lake, and Nuodeng Ancient Village. Ultimately, after much deliberation, I settled on just one: Yunlong Tai Chi. Yunlong Tai Chi Satellite Image

North of Yunlong County, the Bi River carves out a large "S"-shaped bay, creating a natural wonder resembling the Taoist "Tai Chi" pattern (see image above). Within this "natural Tai Chi diagram," the Zhuangping Basin in the north and the Lianjingping Basin in the south form two fish-shaped patterns, reminiscent of the "Yin" and "Yang" elements in the Tai Chi diagram and closely resembling traditional Taoist patterns. This unique landform, formed during the geological development of the Hengduan Mountains, is extremely rare.

Yunlong Tai Chi Observation Deck Entrance

The Yunlong Tai Chi Observation Deck is located on the west side of the Bian River, on the winding mountain road from Yunlong County to Yunlong Tianchi Lake (the Tianchi Tourist Route), at an altitude of 1,980 meters. Free parking is conveniently located along the road. Directly in front of the entrance, a large stone is engraved with the eight characters "World Wonder - Yunlong Tai Chi."

Yunji Pavilion

Behind the big rock with the words "World Wonder, Yunlong Tai Chi" there is a beautiful pavilion, with two plaques "Yun Ji" and "Tai Chi Tiancheng" hanging on the pavilion. The observation deck has two floors, and Yunji Pavilion is located on the upper floor.

Overlooking Yunlong Taiji from the upper observation deck

From the observation deck, you can take in the panoramic view of Taiji, taking in the entirety of the wonders of Taiji, a true example of the unity of nature and man. Although Yunlong Taiji is a lesser-known attraction, its power is truly astonishing, inspiring awe at this masterpiece of nature. Although it's not on your itinerary, it's definitely worth the trip. The Bi River meanders from the northeast and flows out from the center of the Tai Chi meridian, like a copper lock hanging on a silver chain. The ancients called it "Tai Chi Locking Water".

Overlooking "Yunlong Tai Chi" from the lower level of the observation deck

Leaving the Yunlong Tai Chi Observation Deck, we returned east and then north to our overnight accommodation, Shaxi Ancient Town.

It was already dusk when we arrived in Shaxi Ancient Town, so we stayed at a B&B called "Linqiao Huahai Xiaoyuan" outside the town. There are also accommodations within the town, but they are more expensive and tend to be more crowded. After settling our luggage, we walked to the ancient town.

Heihui River

Shaxi Ancient Town is located in the southeast of Jianchuan County, Yunnan Province, on the bank of the Heihui River (also known as), 32 kilometers from the county seat. It is located between the three major tourist areas of Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-La, and is a popular tourist attraction.

Horse Tie Stone

Shaxi Ancient Town has a long history. As early as the rise of the Nanzhao Kingdom in the early Tang Dynasty, Shaxi was a "Zhao" (Yiluoshizhao) in the northern Erhai Lake basin. It belonged to the Yaozhou Military Governor's Office of Jiannan Road, a tributary of the Jimi Prefecture, governing all ethnic minorities from western Chuxiong Prefecture to Dali Prefecture. In the late Ming Dynasty, the name "Shaxi" was adopted, and in the Qing Dynasty, it was called "Shaxi Tu." Shaxi was also an important post station on the Ancient Tea-Horse Road. With the passage of time and the decline of the Tea-Horse Road, the area gradually fell into oblivion, but it has since preserved the charm of its former glory. Legend has it that in the early 20th century, several Swiss arrived in the area and, discovering Shaxi's ancient historical relics and beautiful natural scenery, they approached the local government, offering to provide maintenance funds. The condition was that the government refrain from arbitrary reconstruction and instead undertake protective restoration, preserving the original charm of the ancient town. The two parties hit it off and signed a ten-year contract.

Yujin Bridge

The Heihui River, one of the Four Rivers during the Nanzhao period, flows around the east side of Shaxi Ancient Town. The Yujin Bridge, spanning the Heihui River outside the East Village Gate of Shaxi Temple Deng Street, is a key bridge on the Ancient Tea Horse Road heading south to Dali and north to Lijiang. It is also one of the region's famous historical and cultural landscapes and ancient buildings. The bridge, originally built during the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty, was originally an iron chain bridge. However, it was destroyed during the Xianfeng reign of Emperor Xianfeng due to wars and the use of iron to make weapons. In 1921, local gentry in Shaxi initiated donations to build a new Yujin Bridge. Construction did not begin until 1931, and after four years of construction, it was finally completed in 1935. The new Yujin Bridge is a single-arch stone bridge, 35.4 meters long, 5 meters wide, with a clear span of 12 meters and an arch height of 6 meters. The bridge deck is paved with stone slabs and guardrails.

Yujin Bridge is a key transportation hub in Shaxi Ancient Town. It is not only one of the key bridges connecting the Ancient Tea Horse Road to Dali in the south, but also a key channel for local Bai residents to access the fields and conduct commercial activities. It has witnessed the local folk customs and economic development and has become a major tourist attraction. On the arch of the bridge, two turtle heads are carved on the north and south sides, overlooking the upstream and downstream rivers.

Looking north at the Heihui River from Yujin Bridge

Looking out over the Heihui River from Yujin Bridge (to the south)

East Gate of the Ancient Town

Not far east of Yujin Bridge is Shaxi Ancient Town. The World Heritage in Danger list states: "The Shaxi (Siden Street) area in China is the only surviving market town on the ancient Tea Horse Road, with intact theaters, hotels, temples, and gates, making this market town connecting Tibet and South Asia quite complete." Ancient Theater

The Ancient Theater in Shaxi Ancient Town, located on Sifang Street, was built during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty. It is one of the town's most distinctive ancient buildings and a prime example of Bai ethnic group architecture. The main structure of the theater is the Kuixing Pavilion, a place where the local Bai people worship the star Kuixing. The theater serves as a secondary function. The main building is three stories high, with the theater in front and the pavilion in the back. The structure is exquisite, with twelve corners, resembling wings. Despite centuries of renovations, it has largely retained its original style. The intricate carvings and exquisite murals convey a rich history. It is not only a cultural symbol of Shaxi Ancient Town but also a vital place for visitors to experience local culture and history.

Across from the ancient stage is Xingjiao Temple, with the stage to the east and the temple to the west. The two form a central axis, dividing the ancient Sifang Street into two halves, north and south. Built in 1415, the 13th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty, Xingjiao Temple is the only surviving Ming Dynasty Bai ethnic group "Awangli" (also known as A'geli) Tantric Buddhist temple in China and one of the few important Ming Dynasty buildings in western Yunnan.

Shaxi Ancient Town Street View

src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1mf3412000ejsvy7p2F74_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" />

Shaxi Ancient Town originally had four gates: East, South, West, and North. However, due to subsequent turmoil and development, the West Gate was lost. Today, the East, South, and North gates remain intact. See the photo below for an introduction to the South Gate.

South Gate (looking inward)

Shaxi Ancient Town Street View

Street view of Shaxi Ancient Town

After a walk around, we returned to the ancient theater.

After dinner in the ancient town, we returned to the B&B.

November 5, 2023, Saturday, Day 21 (Jianchuan County) Shaxi Ancient Town via Shibao Mountain to Lijiang City

Actual itinerary: Shaxi Ancient Town → Shibao Mountain → Lijiang City, driving distance: 103.3 kilometers

Shibao Mountain is located 25 kilometers southwest of Jianchuan County, and the scenic area's visitor center is only a 15-kilometer drive from Shaxi Ancient Town. Shibao Mountain features Danxia landforms. The weathering of the mountain's red sandstone into tortoise-back cracks has created numerous unusual peaks and rocks, resembling bells, arrows, lions, and elephants. The tallest peaks form cliffs, forming a unique and well-proportioned pattern. Hence the name "Shibao," and it's considered one of China's 44 key scenic spots. The area boasts lush forests, fascinating rock formations, and numerous scenic spots. Relics of Taoist temples built during the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, such as Baoxiang Temple, Jinding Temple, and Haiyunju, are also found here. The precious Shizhongshan Grottoes and cliff carvings are also worth a visit. The exquisite sculptures, with their distinctive southwestern characteristics, are well worth a visit.

Shibaoshan Visitor Center parking lot. During the off-season, there are more monkeys than people.

Entrance to Shibao Mountain

The Shibao Mountain Scenic Area is quite large, and its attractions are quite scattered, more than several kilometers apart. However, there are roads connecting the attractions, and paid shuttle buses run between them. Therefore, you need to purchase tickets at the visitor center and take the scenic shuttle bus to enter the area.

Gate of Shizhong Temple

The shuttle bus's first stop is Shizhong Temple (Shizhong Grottoes), the farthest from the scenic area entrance. The Shizhong Temple parking lot is some distance from the temple entrance, so you'll need to walk there.

Stone Bell Temple Gate

The couplet at the Stone Bell Temple gate reads: "The land connects the three thousand tribes of the Mongols and the Zhao people; the ridges hold the two great men of Dian and Chuibai. The horizontal banner reads: "The Holy Land of Nanzhao." However, this gate is several kilometers away from the Stone Bell Temple. First, you have to descend into the valley, follow a winding path through the forest, and then climb a small hill. Fortunately, the scenery along the way is beautiful, with exotic flowers and plants, and flowing mountain springs. Looking up, you can see the unique turtle-back boulders of Shibao Mountain jutting out from the mountaintops and across the valley, so it doesn't feel tiring at all.

Stone carvings on the roadside.

Feige Liudan

Guarding Tiger

Front Gate of Shizhong Temple

In the 12th year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty (1639), Xu Xiake visited Shibao Mountain and called it "Zhongshan" in his travelogue, "Xu Xiake's Travel Notes." This name stems from the huge bell-like rock in the mountain, hence the name Shizhong Mountain. The temple in the mountain is also known as "Shizhong Temple."

A red rock stands in the temple grounds. A statue of Guanyin is located in a niche atop the rock.

The Stone Bell Temple is built along the cliff, with layers stacked up to the top.

In 1988, after visiting the Shibaoshan Grottoes, the martial arts novelist Jin Yong inscribed the four characters "Southern Sky Treasure".

Stone Bell

The back half of Shizhong Temple is the Shizhongshan Grottoes, located on the mountain behind the temple.

The Shizhongshan Grottoes were founded by the Bai people during the Nanzhao period. Beginning in the fourth year of the Dazhong reign of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty (the eleventh year of the Tianqi reign of Nanzhao, 850 AD), they were excavated through the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, the Northern and Southern Song dynasties, and finally in the sixth year of the Chunxi reign of the Southern Song Dynasty (the fourth year of the Shengde reign of Dali, 1179 AD). This grotto complex, excavated over a period of over 320 years, is the largest and best-preserved grotto complex in Yunnan. It boasts 16 caves and 139 lifelike relief sculptures of varying forms. The statue of Ganlu Guanyin in Cave 7 is known as the "Venus of the East."

The grottoes are carved into the mountainside and are distributed across three areas: Shizhong Temple, Shiziguan, and Shadengqing. There are eight grottoes in Shizhong Temple, three in Shiziguan, and five in Shadengqing. While Shizhong Temple is accessible by car, the other two areas require walking. If you don't have a special interest or are short on time, it's best to skip them.

Yuhuang Pavilion is the highest building in Shizhong Temple. Arriving here means the end of the Shizhong Temple tour.

After leaving Shizhong Temple, walk back to your previous drop-off point along Shizhongshan Road and wait for the shuttle to your next attraction, Baoxiang Temple.

Baoxiang Temple Mountain Gate

Baoxiang Temple, located within the Shibao Mountain Scenic Area, a national 4A-level tourist attraction in Yunnan Province, was first built during the Yuan Dynasty. It was a Tantric Buddhist temple funded by Gao Long, the governor of the Heqing Road Military and Civilian General Office. Originally named Zhuyan Temple, it was destroyed by fire in 1687. Funds were raised for reconstruction in 1690, and the temple's name was later changed to Baoxiang Temple. During the Cultural Revolution, most of the ancient buildings were well preserved, save for the destruction of some famous plaques and pavilions. Because the temple is built on a steep, towering rock face, it is known as the "Hanging Temple of Yunnan."

Baoxiang Temple Gate Baoxiang Temple Gate

From the Baoxiang Temple Gate to the front gate, you need to climb about 300 to 400 meters of steep steps, which is a bit strenuous.

Along the way, there are stone carvings.

Hiking trail

Arhat couch, carved from a single piece of stone.

src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/1mf2f12000eoxmh8kBEC3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" />

Mountaineering Road

Finally arrived at the entrance of Baoxiang Temple.

Baoxiang Temple, with its rock-cut grottoes, comprises a gate, main hall, the Hall of Ten Sons and Ten Sisters, east and west wings, gardens, and the Jade Emperor Pavilion. Its architecture is unique and its structure exquisite. Baoxiang Temple also boasts several historically valuable inscriptions and plaques. On November 16, 1993, the Yunnan Provincial People's Government designated it as one of the fourth batch of provincial-level key cultural relics protection sites.

If you continue walking up the mountain from Baoxiang Temple, you'll reach Jinding Temple in about half an hour. We gave up and went straight down the mountain to take a bus back to the visitor center to pick up our car for the trip to Lijiang City.

We chose to stay at the Hanting Hotel (Lijiang Ancient Town Airport Bus Station) tonight. Besides its good value, it's also close to Black Dragon Pond Park, which offers the best views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, especially in the evening. So, after checking in, we immediately walked to Black Dragon Pond Park.

South Gate of Black Dragon Pool Park

Black Dragon Pool was originally a Dragon King Temple in Lijiang. Numerous springs formed the pond near the temple. Because the jade-like springs reflect Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, it is also known as "Jade Spring Park." This area serves as the water source for Lijiang Old Town and houses the largest concentration of nationally protected cultural relics in the city. The Five-Arch Bridge, Deyue Tower, Snow Mountain, and their reflections in Black Dragon Pool create a classic Lijiang postcard. Black Dragon Pool is the best place to photograph Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, preferably in the morning or evening when the light is at its best.

In the distance is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

The towering snow-capped mountains, lush forests, blue sky and white clouds, and pavilions are reflected in the clear blue waters of Black Dragon Pond. The scenery is beautiful, like a fairyland. The only drawback is that there is not much snow on the mountain at this time of year. Last year's snow has almost melted, and this year's snow has not yet fallen.

解脱林

万寿亭

Five-hole Bridge

There is a five-hole white marble bridge south of Deyue Tower. The design of the bridge is simple and simple, with a large arch in the middle and independent small arches on both sides, which contrasts with Deyue Tower. The Five-hole Bridge, also known as the Yudai Bridge and the Acacia Bridge, lies across the Black Dragon Pond. Split the pond into two. There are stone elephants and stone lions carved on the stone railings of the bridge. "Elephant and Lion" is a homophone of "Acacia", so it is named Acacia Bridge .

Deyue Tower

Deyue Tower was built in the second year of Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (1876). It was destroyed by fire in 1961 and rebuilt in 1963. Deyue Tower is a pavilion-style building with triple eaves and a pointed roof. The base is octagonal and about 4 meters high. It is 20 meters high and has three rooms in width and depth. Ruyi brackets are built on the second and third floors, and the four corners of the first floor are supported by eaves columns to support the corner beams. The paintings are colorful and the carvings are lifelike.

Deyue Tower is surrounded by water on all sides. There is a plaque of "Deyue Tower" and two couplets on the front written by Mr. Guo Moruo. One of the couplets is a collection of Mao Zedong's poems, saying: There are thousands of willows in the spring breeze, and the scenery here is unique; three million jade dragons fly, and the country is so beautiful. Another couplet was written by Guo Lao himself, saying: The Longtan reflects the thirteen peaks, with hidden dragons in the sky and flying dragons on the ground; jade water stretches for about half a mile, with ink jade as the body and green jade as the god.