Self-driving tour along the Yunnan-Guizhou Grand Loop (Part 11)

Number of days：61 days
Time: October
Average cost: 10,000 yuan
With whom: husband and wife
Updated: 2024.10.13

November 10, 2023 Friday, Day 25: Lijiang City via Tiger Leaping Gorge to Baishuitai

Actual itinerary: Lijiang City → Xionggu Observation Deck → Tiger Leaping Gorge → Wangtian Waterfall → Baishuitai, driving distance: 164.4 kilometers

Today we depart Lijiang City and head north (towards Shangri-La), visiting several attractions along the way, with the highlight being Tiger Leaping Gorge. We will stay overnight at Baishuitai.

First stop is Xionggu Observation Deck.

Entrance to Xionggu Viewing Platform

The Xionggu Viewing Platform is located on National Highway G353, which runs from Lijiang to Tiger Leaping Gorge. Since the opening of the highway, fewer tourists have taken this route, leaving the Xionggu Viewing Platform deserted and nearly abandoned. The Xionggu Viewing Platform is a small attraction, ideal for a quick visit. However, on clear days, the platform offers a panoramic view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Haba Snow Mountain, and the First Bend of the Yangtze River, earning it the nickname "Three Scenic Spots in One."

Guanyin Temple

The attraction is unmanaged and no ticket is required. It takes a few minutes to walk from the entrance to the observation deck.

Guanyin Temple

There is another Guanyin Temple on the way, but its gate is closed. From the observation deck, you can admire Haba Snow Mountain, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and the Jinsha River Gorge. To the left and front is Haba Snow Mountain, to the right is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and below is the Jinsha River. The Jinsha River flows through here, rushing towards the canyon between Haba Snow Mountain and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Tiger Leaping Gorge is the most dangerous section of the river.

View of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from the southwest

Jinsha River and Haba Snow Mountain

Haba Snow Mountain

Haba Snow Mountain is located southeast of Shangri-La City, Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. Its main peak, at 5,396 meters above sea level, is the fourth highest peak in Yunnan Province. "Haba" means "flower of gold" in the Naxi language. In folklore, Haba Snow Mountain and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain are considered brothers. The Jinsha River flows between these two towering peaks, forming Tiger Leaping Gorge, the world's deepest canyon. Haba Snow Mountain is said to be the only 5,000-meter-high snow-capped mountain in Yunnan Province where climbing is permitted, and it's the top choice for many mountaineering enthusiasts as their "first snow-capped mountain." Of course, at our age, it's impossible to attempt it.

Our next stop is the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Scenery along the way

A viewing platform before entering the scenic area

Scenery along the way

Arrived at the Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic spot in the Tiger Leaping Gorge Scenic Area. From the entrance, you can choose to walk down to the riverbank or take the elevator. Most tourists usually hike down and then take the elevator back up after the tour, saving energy and money while also enjoying the scenic views. Overlooking Tiger Leaping Gorge from the pedestrian stairs

Tiger Leaping Gorge is one of the world's most dramatic canyons. Located southeast of Shangri-La City, Diqing Prefecture, Yunnan Province, it stretches approximately 20 kilometers. At this point, the Jinsha River is sandwiched between the Yulong and Haba Snow Mountains. The river narrows to just 20 to 30 meters at its narrowest point, and the enormous drop creates a turbulent flow. It has become a world-renowned tourist destination known for its unique, treacherous, majestic, and magnificent natural scenery.

Looking down at the Tiger Leaping Gorge Observation Deck from the pedestrian stairs

Tiger Leaping Gorge is divided into three sections: Upper, Middle, and Lower. Upper Tiger Leaping, located approximately 9 kilometers from Tiger Leaping Gorge Town, is the narrowest section of the gorge, renowned for its gorge mouth and Tiger Leaping Rock. Near the Upper Tiger Leaping Observation Deck, the river is less than 30 meters wide. A triangular rock dominates the center of the river, bisecting the rapids and creating a cascading, snow-like spray and roaring waves. Legend has it that a tiger once used this rock to leap from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to Haba Snow Mountain, hence the name Tiger Leaping Rock.

Tiger Leaping Stone

Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge was developed earlier, boasting a well-preserved plank road. The route from the roadside down to the river is simple and easy, with a short, easy walk of just 20 minutes for those with quick feet. Consequently, most visitors to Tiger Leaping Gorge only visit Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge, leading to a common misconception that Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge is synonymous with Tiger Leaping Gorge, and vice versa. In fact, in addition to Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge, the over 20-kilometer-long Tiger Leaping Gorge also includes Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge and Lower Tiger Leaping Gorge. Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge is known for its perilous scenery, while Lower Tiger Leaping Gorge is known for its breathtaking scenery, including a high gorge and a tranquil lake. Tiger Leaping Gorge has become one of the world's most famous hiking destinations, attracting countless outdoor enthusiasts year after year, precisely for the unique experience of Upper, Middle, and Lower Tiger Leaping Gorge. However, due to the difficulty and time involved in the hike, most Chinese tourists with limited funds, time, or physical strength avoid it. This hike is primarily undertaken by foreign tourists, true self-indulgent hikers.

Leaving Shanghutiao, head north along the East Loop to Baishuitai.

Wangtian Waterfall Observation Deck

There were several viewpoints along the way, but we didn't stop. Later, I saw this one called Wangtian Waterfall Observation Deck, and out of curiosity, I stopped to take a look.

Wangtian Waterfall, overlooking the river, and the winding road gazing at the cliffs.

Looking downstream, the clear water flows around the peaks.

Looking upstream, a silver waterfall comes from the sky.

Looking down, you can see the surging Jinsha River.

Looking up, you can see the majestic remnants of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Continuing on, we passed the fork in the road leading to Zhonghutiao. The road down was very steep, and any car going in seemed to plunge headfirst. We were afraid that our car would not be able to get back up after going down, so we didn't dare to take the risk.

Scenery on the way

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Haba Snow Mountain

Scenery on the way

Scenery Along the Way

We arrived at Baishuitai in the evening and found a guesthouse outside the scenic area to stay. After dinner, I asked the owner for advice on how to visit Baishuitai. He suggested entering the scenic area early in the morning to watch the sunrise. When the first rays of sunlight illuminate Baishuitai, it paints the entire surface in a brilliant golden hue, which is the most beautiful scenery of Baishuitai. Of course, it also depends on luck; beautiful scenery is often hard to come by.

November 11, 2023, Saturday, Day 26, Baishuitai to Shangri-La

Actual itinerary: Baishuitai → Pudacuo National Park → Jinhuayuan Hotel in Shangri-La → Baiji Temple → Moonlight Square → (walk) Guishan Park → (walk) Dukezong Ancient Town → (walk) Moonlight Square → Jinhuayuan Hotel in Shangri-La, driving distance: 120.1 kilometers

Pamukkale, a scenic spot in Turkey, is world-famous. Baishuitai, a scenic spot in Yunnan, China, is known as the "Chinese Pamukkale," and its scenery rivals that of Turkey's Pamukkale. However, it was previously a niche destination. The main reason for this was the difficult journey, with poor roads and difficult access. Travel agencies were reluctant to organize tours, unless they offered customized, small groups at a high price. Self-driving, on the other hand, was time-consuming, laborious, and dangerous. Baishuitai is located at the foot of Haba Snow Mountain, in Baidi Village, Sanba Township, southeast of Shangri-La City, Yunnan Province, 101 kilometers from the city center, at an altitude of 2,380 meters. It is the birthplace of the Dongba religion of the Naxi people. Before the construction of the Xili Expressway (G0613), there were two road options for traveling north from Lijiang or Tiger Leaping Gorge to Shangri-La: the West Scenic Route (G214 Yunnan-Tibet Highway), which passes through the western foot of Haba Snow Mountain, and the East Ring Route (also known as the Tiger-Shangri-La Highway, running from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Shangri-La), which also passes through the eastern foot of Haba Snow Mountain. The former boasts few bends and gentle slopes, and the road is in excellent condition, allowing the 93-kilometer journey to take only about 1.5 hours. The latter, starting from Tiger Leaping Gorge Town, passes through Haba Village (Haba Snow Mountain), Baishuitai, and crosses the Washing Basin Pass (3,719 meters above sea level) before reaching Pudacuo National Park and finally arriving in Shangri-La City. The total length is approximately 183 kilometers, and due to the numerous bends, the driving time takes about four hours, even after the East Ring Road has been widened and smoothed. Therefore, while many people are aware of Baishuitai, the poor road conditions and long driving times deterred most people until the East Ring Road is fully opened in 2022. Therefore, the West Scenic Area Route is the preferred choice for tour buses and most self-driving tours north to Shangri-La.

We woke up before dawn and set off without even having breakfast, just to reach the scenic spot before sunrise. Fortunately, the B&B we chose was very close to the scenic area entrance, only about a 10-minute walk.

A corner of Baishuitai before sunrise

Baishuitai is a unique natural wonder, formed by calcium carbonate dissolving in spring water. As the spring water, rich in calcium carbonate, slowly flows down, the water evaporates and the calcium carbonate salts gradually precipitate, forming a white sediment called "quanhua," which covers the ground. Over the years, this accumulation forms a terraced surface, layered like terraced fields, earning it the nickname "the fields left behind by immortals." Baishuitai is the largest quanhua terrace in my country, covering approximately 3 square kilometers.

The viewing platform on the left side of the scenic area is the best place to enjoy the panoramic view of Baishuitai. Under the sunlight, the water surface of the terraces presents a colorful landscape: emerald green like jade, deep blue like sapphire, sky blue like the clear sky, purple like amethyst...

Baishuitai is not only a beautiful place, but also the birthplace of the Naxi Dongba religion and the center of religious activities and ethnic performances. According to local legend, Baishuitai was created by two Naxi gods to teach the local Naxi people how to cultivate land. That’s why it is called “the land left by the immortals”.

Continuing north from Baishuitai, the East Ring Road, completed just a year ago, features many twists and turns, steep slopes, but the asphalt surface is smooth, with one lane each way and few vehicles, making it a relatively easy drive. After crossing the 3,717-meter Washing Basin Pass, we descended to the Pudacuo National Park parking lot. I inquired at the visitor center, but was told that the main attractions, Bitahai and Shudu Lake, were closed. I decided to give up and head directly to Shangri-La City.

I checked into a hotel, dropped off my luggage, and seeing that it was still early, decided to explore the attractions of downtown Shangri-La.

Shangri-La City (Shangri-La) is a county-level city under the jurisdiction of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province, and the seat of the prefecture. It is located in northwestern Yunnan Province, in the heart of the Hengduan Mountains, at the junction of Yunnan, Sichuan, and Tibet.

Shangri-La City was originally named "Zhongdian" and "Jiantang" in Tibetan. On December 17, 2001, it was renamed Shangri-La County. In 2014, the county was abolished and the city was established. "Shangri-La" is a transliteration of the Tibetan word for "sun and moon in the heart." It is also translated as "Shambhala," meaning "paradise." Shangri-La became a popular destination in the 1930s after appearing in British author James Hilton's novel "Lost Horizon." It was soon adapted into a film of the same name, which won multiple Oscars and further cemented its global fame. The Shangri-La Tibetan area boasts a long history and stunning natural scenery, including Pudacuo National Park, Dukezong Ancient Town, Ganden Songzanlin Monastery, and Tiger Leaping Gorge. Following the principle of "far first, then near," drive to Baiji Temple. Baiji Temple, a Gelugpa monastery of Tibetan Buddhism, was built in the Ming Dynasty (some say it was built in the Yuan Dynasty) and is located atop the Western Hills behind Dukezong Ancient Town. Since the temple's establishment, local residents have visited it to pray for disasters and release a chicken onto the mountain whenever they encounter disasters. During incense burning, people often scatter food to feed the chickens, leading to the widespread flocking of chickens inside and outside the temple, earning it the nickname "Hundred Chicken Temple." In 1869, the eighth year of the Tongzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty, the temple was burned down by bandits. In 1873, official Feng Naixiong donated funds for its reconstruction. It was destroyed again during the Cultural Revolution. In 1990, it was rebuilt with funds raised by the Central Town Elderly Association and managed by people sent by Songzanlin Temple.

Ancient pavilion on the way up the mountain

Vehicles can only be parked in the parking lot halfway up the mountain, and then hike to the top.

The plaque on the pavilion reads "Jiming Shengshi".

This is the highest point in downtown Shangri-La, at an altitude of approximately 3,400 meters. It offers a great view of the entire city and Dukezong Ancient Town.

The new city is in the distance, and the ancient city is nearby. At the foot of the mountain, three magnificent buildings form the famous Guishan Park.

Baiji Temple Mountain Gate

After descending the mountain, drive to the parking lot at Moonlight Square and then walk to Guishan Park and Dukezong Ancient Town.

Moonlight Square

Located in the heart of the ancient city, Moonlight Square is surrounded by quaint Tibetan-style wooden houses, where locals live a peaceful life. To the west of the square is Big Turtle Mountain, also known as Turtle Mountain Park.

Moonlight Square

Big Turtle Mountain, also known as Turtle Mountain Park

Entrance to Guishan Park

Established during the reign of Emperor Kangxi, Guishan Park is nestled against the mountain and is the commanding height of the ancient city. From the summit, you can see a panoramic view of the entire county. The prayer wheels and the Big Buddha Temple are the park's most distinctive buildings and are landmarks of the ancient city.

Big Buddha Temple Gate

Tucked away in Guishan Park in Dukezong Ancient Town, the Shangri-La Big Buddha Temple was built during the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty. This ancient temple blends Tibetan and Han architectural styles, and the solemn and majestic statue of Sakyamuni Buddha in the main hall inspires awe.

The most eye-catching thing in the temple is the world's largest prayer wheel recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records. It is 21 meters high and weighs 60 tons. It is made entirely of pure copper and is plated with real gold. The four Bodhisattvas Manjusri, Samantabhadra, Avalokitesvara and Ksitigarbha are engraved in relief on the upper end of the cylinder. The eight treasures of Buddhism are engraved on the lower end. There are also 1.24 million sutras, mantras, wordless mantras and various Buddhist treasures hidden inside the cylinder, with a total weight of about 16 tons. To turn such a huge prayer tube requires the efforts of more than ten people at the same time. Each round of rotation is equivalent to silently chanting the Buddha's name 1.24 million times. After three weeks of turning, it can eliminate disasters and pray for good luck.

Big Buddha Temple

Leave Guishan Park and head to Dukezong Ancient City

The ancient city of Dukezong is located in the southeast corner of Shangri-La. It was built by the Tubo Dynasty in the Tang Dynasty. Historically, it was an important town and garrison, and also an important stop on the Yunnan-Tibet section of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road. "Dukezong" is pronounced in Tibetan and means "moonlight city" and "castle built on stone". The ancient city is built on the mountain. The layout of the buildings is like an eight-petal lotus. The road is paved with stone slabs according to the terrain, with natural undulations. To this day, the imprints of horse hoofs can even be seen on the stone road, which are tokens left by the caravans over the years.

Sifang Street

The ancient city has three main streets and 33 alleys crisscrossing them. In the center of the city is the one-acre Sifang Street, which is a market place for trading.

North City Gate

Duke Zonghua Lane

Duke Zonghua Lane is a representative urban tourism complex and characteristic town in Tibetan areas across the country created by Cedar Cultural Tourism Group. In human terms, it is a man-made attraction. Opened on September 18, 2018.

Dukezong Flower Lane is located at the north gate of Dukezong Ancient City in Shangri-La. Relying on Shangri-La's natural resources and cultural and historical heritage, and inheriting and innovating the unique folk customs of the local Tibetan people, it integrates Tibetan intangible cultural heritage experience, Tibetan culture street, the fifth meteorite series hotel, "Meet Shangri-La" show, etc. to provide tourists with a Tibetan cultural experience tour.