On February 2nd (the fifth day of the Lunar New Year), we started our self-driving tour of Lijiang.
Lijiang's main attractions are the ancient town and the snow-capped mountains.
Lijiang Old Town can be divided into a narrow and broad definition. The narrow definition of Lijiang Old Town refers specifically to Dayan Old Town, which is what people usually refer to as Lijiang Old Town. The broad definition of Lijiang Old Town refers to the "Lijiang Old Town" designated as a World Cultural Heritage, which includes the Shuhe Ancient Building Complex and the Baisha Ancient Building Complex in addition to Dayan Old Town. We left our hotel in Dali at 9:10 and headed to Lijiang, with our first stop being Baisha Ancient Town. Baisha Ancient Town is 180 kilometers away from Dali. We stopped at Jianhu Service Area for a break on the way and arrived at Baisha Ancient Town at 12:30 noon.
Baisha Ancient Town is the source of "Lijiang Ancient Town", so it is reasonable to visit here first.
Baisha Ancient Town is small but very exquisite. Entering Baisha Ancient Town, I saw two lifelike deer statues perched on the roof of a house, a typical example of Naxi architectural style. Deer are traditionally considered symbols of good fortune, longevity, and happiness. A few steps further, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain came into clear view to the north of the town, lifting my spirits. There is a deer sculpture on the roof.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is right before your eyes.
First, we visited the Baisha Mural Museum in the town. The "Baisha Murals" were painted from the early Ming Dynasty to the early Qing Dynasty, a period of over 300 years. The murals incorporate Tibetan Buddhist painting styles and are a treasure of mural art. The museum also introduces the history and culture of the Naxi people, which is an eye-opener.
Lijiang Old Town covers an area of approximately 7.3 square kilometers. Founded in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty, the ancestors of the Lijiang Mu clan relocated their ruling center from Baisha Ancient Town to Shizishan Mountain and established Dayan Ancient Town, now known as Lijiang Old Town. Surrounded by verdant mountains and lush green waters amidst the green fields, Lijiang Old Town resembles a large jade inkstone, hence the ancient name Dayan Ancient Town.
The Old Town of Lijiang is built on the hillside and beside the water. There is no regular road network in the city, and there are no strict city walls, which makes it remarkably open. The ancient city is centered around Sifang Street, surrounded by numerous ancient buildings. The buildings are primarily wooden, using mortise and tenon joints, which provide them with flexibility and earthquake resistance. It is said that on February 3, 1996, a 7.0 magnitude earthquake struck Lijiang, causing severe casualties and property damage. However, the wooden structures in Lijiang Old Town sustained minimal damage, with only half of the buildings collapsing, preserving their historical authenticity.
We stayed in Lijiang Ancient Town for two and a half hours, from the South Gate to the Water Wheel and then to Zhongyi Market. We strolled along the way, took in the hustle and bustle, the buildings and shops along the streets, and the small bridges and flowing water houses in the ancient town. Then we returned to the Zuilijiang Folk Restaurant near the hotel for dinner, ending the day's trip and preparing to get up early the next day to watch the sunrise at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
February 3rd was a day of real testing, a test of energy, perseverance, and physical fitness.
I got up at 5:00 in the morning, fully armed with cold-proof clothing, picked up a packed breakfast at the hotel front desk, and set off at 5:45 to a place called Ganhaizi in the Yulong Snow Mountain Scenic Area to see the "Sunshine on the Golden Mountain". We drove north along the tourist route from south to north, heading straight for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The road was pitch black on both sides, and the taillights of the cars ahead stretched out in a line, seemingly endless. Why were so many cars so crowded in this remote mountain area? Everyone's goal and purpose were likely the same: although sunrise wasn't until 8 a.m., seeing the "golden mountain" under the sun demanded an early start. Leaving later would have prevented traffic jams, and arriving early would have given them a better vantage point.
The distance from the hotel to Ganhaizi (approximately 2,900 meters above sea level) is 26 kilometers. We drove slowly, arriving at 6:30. We parked at Yulong Snow Mountain Parking Lot 3, not far from the tourist service center, which serves as a gathering place for tourists. A short walk of more than 200 meters leads to the viewing point, a small lake. The photo that graces the album cover was taken near the lake; the reflection of the snow-capped mountains is stunning. We arrived at the lake and secured a good spot. Many local villagers gathered around us, flashlights in hand, offering to sell us cotton hats, scarves, gloves, coats, raincoats, and more. We bought a pair of gloves, confirmed the best photo location, and then quietly waited in the biting wind. My first photo, at 7 a.m., was of tourists waiting around the lake in the dark under a starry sky. At 7:20 a.m., I actually managed to capture the snow-capped mountains, complete with their reflections.
We are worried about our upcoming snow mountain trip. There are three cable cars to visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: the small cable car Yunshanping, the medium cable car Yaoniuping, and the large cable car Glacier Park. All three cable cars require advance ticket reservations. We already have 3 tickets in hand, and whether we can see the true face of the snow-capped mountains depends on luck.
At 9:15, we took 5 oxygen cylinders (1 per person and 1 spare) from the tourist service center to Yunshanping by sightseeing bus, and reached the top of the mountain by cable car before 10 o'clock.
We spent half an hour on the mountain without oxygen, though some people did. Due to the thick fog, we couldn't see the snow-capped mountains clearly, so we had to take the cable car and bus down the mountain. En route, the bus stopped at Blue Moon Valley, which offered beautiful views. Blue Moon Valley was originally known as the "White Water River," the result of the melting ice and snow from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain glacier, which flowed down the cliffs, continuously forming mountain streams and creeks, ultimately forming a river in the upper valley. Blue Moon Valley combines plateau water bodies with alpine vegetation. Its main attractions include Yuye Lake, Jingtan Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Tingtao Lake. The water in Blue Moon Valley is exceptionally clear, evoking the aesthetic of "the lake's light and the autumn moon blend in harmony, the lake's surface a calm, unpolished mirror." Unfortunately, the fog still lingered, preventing us from clearly seeing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance or its reflection in the lake.
At this time, the snow-capped peaks appeared and disappeared, the sun flickered, and the clouds and mist drifted. Hopefully, the sky will clear up, and the snow-capped mountains will live up to our expectations! The tourists cheered and took photos at the "4506" sign.
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Queuing for photos
I marveled at the magnificent snowy spectacle before me: the endless expanse of Jade Dragon Peaks resembled enormous icy jades, set amidst jagged rocks. The glaciers, the deep valleys, the snowy slopes rivaled those of Europe's Alps. At this moment, clouds and mist billowed, whitecaps billowing to the sky, then cleared, revealing a wash of peaks, a truly magical spectacle. Li Jing, the renowned Yuan Dynasty poet, once eulogized the Snow Mountain in his poem "Song of the Snowy Mountains," praising it: "Lijiang's snow-capped mountains are unparalleled in the world, piled high like thousands of layers of jade." Isn't that the exact scene I was looking at?
The Fanzi Steep Hill standing in front of us is 5596 meters above sea level. The highest point in the scenic area is 4680 meters above sea level. The highest point in the scenic area is 174 meters above sea level, about 1000 steps away from the current "4506". The steps wind upward like a ladder to heaven, guiding you to the sacred snow-capped peaks. In these snowy mountains, one feels nothing but awe and admiration. This admiration can purify the soul and strengthen one's willpower. Climbing these 1,000 steps at a height of 174 meters might be a piece of cake under normal circumstances, but at an altitude of over 4,000 meters, it's no small feat. For every visitor, the greatest challenge is altitude sickness caused by lack of oxygen. Everyone wants to push their limits and surpass themselves in this sacred land of eternal ice and snow. I, too, summoned the courage of the saying, "If you haven't climbed the Great Wall, you're not a true man," and ascended this "ladder to heaven." Although there are only a few thousand steps, each one requires immense effort. Along the way, people were walking and stopping, gasping for air, and constantly breathing oxygen. Groups of people were even lying on the ground, unable to stand. My husband climbed to "4591" and stopped for safety reasons. I climbed a few steps, rested, and took another breath of oxygen before finally reaching "4680." I breathed a sigh of relief, feeling that I could challenge myself and defeat myself.
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No way. Can't get upOn the "ladder to heaven", whether climbing up or down, we were shocked by the uncanny workmanship of the snow-capped mountains, admired the fairyland-like snow-capped mountains, sang for the incomparable magical beauty of the snow-capped mountains, and took great pictures as the scenery changed with every step. It was really worth the trip. Heaven and man are one, Tao follows nature, as if the soul has been filtered, the world has been transcended, and the world has stopped...
On the way down, I suddenly heard the news that the wind had picked up, and people might have to stop going up the mountain. It is said that the ropeway was closed yesterday and the day before yesterday. We were really lucky.
Fortunately, the four of us in the group were fine. We arrived at the Visitor Service Center at 6:25 and went to the restroom. After coming out, my daughter felt uncomfortable, a bit like having a high fever. By the way, I heard a tour guide on the mountain say that you can’t go to the toilet right away when you come down the mountain, otherwise you will get high. Neglected.
Our next stop will be Shangri-La. Shangri-La is a Tibetan area. What kind of scenery and culture are there?
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