[New Yunnan Notes] Dreaming at Cuihu Lake, encountering the gentleness of time

Number of days: 4 days
Time: February
Updated: 2025.04.01

[New Yunnan Notes] Dream-Seeking at Cuihu Lake, Encountering the Tenderness of Time

Leaving Southwest Associated University, I headed towards Cuihu Park, full of anticipation, searching for directions and asking for directions. The beautiful woman I finally asked, with a bright smile, enthusiastically instructed: "Go down here, up a slope, and you'll reach Cuihu Park."

I continued on with anticipation, and sure enough, a tall stone tablet across the road caught my eye, its three bold and powerful characters: "Xiansheng Slope." Suddenly, my thoughts drifted. Could Xiansheng Slope be inextricably linked to Wen Yiduo? Ten years ago, I had searched for the spot where Wen Yiduo died, and it seemed not far from here. I hurried across the street and slowly descended the slope. At the exit, the familiar words "Xianshengpo" (Mr. Slope) came into view again. In ancient Kunming, streets were often named after "slopes," with thirteen slopes dotted across the city, and Xianshengpo stands out as a unique example. Xianshengpo is short, only 115 meters, but it rises higher in the north and lowers in the south, making it a steep slope. It resembles a thread through time, one end tightly bound to the bustling hustle and bustle of Wenlin Street, its bustling traffic brimming with the daily grind of life; the other end gently embraces the leisurely, tranquil vibe of Cuihu Lake, its tranquility embodying the peacefulness of time.

In the late Qing Dynasty, scholars from all over the country flocked to Gongyuan (now the front half of Yunnan University's Donglu Campus) to take the provincial examinations, and many of them gathered here. In that era of reverence for knowledge, scholars were respectfully addressed as "Xiansheng" (scholars), hence the name "Xiansheng Slope." Another legend claims that a scholar once lived at the foot of the slope, setting up a school to tutor candidates. Today, the sculptures on Xiansheng Slope stand quietly, silently evoking that bygone era.

Xianshengpo (Mengsheng Slope) has been a fixture of Kunming since the Ming and Qing dynasties. Back then, it was an integral part of the city, attracting scholars and literati, where the aroma of tea and ink blended harmoniously. Over the years, as Kunming transformed from an ancient city into a modern metropolis, Xianshengpo (Mengsheng Slope) has remained a constant presence, silently witnessing the city's transformation and preserving its unique historical charm.

During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Southwest Associated University took root in Kunming. Numerous patriots, including Li Gongpu, Wen Yiduo, and Zhu Ziqing, resided at Xianshengpo. Their ideas and character imbued this land with tremendous strength, making Xianshengpo famous far and wide. In the memories of nearby residents, this place is filled with the figures of "Xianshengs." Over time, the nickname "Xiansheng Hill" has become increasingly resonant, and the passage of time has deeply ingrained the elegance of these Xianshengs into this land. On Xiansheng Hill, traditional Kunming dwellings stand side by side. Their earthen structures, whitewashed tiles, and whitewashed walls embody the quintessential Yunnan architectural style, showcasing a quaint charm. Houses are staggered along narrow streets, and every brick, every tile, whispers a story of the past. The cobblestones beneath your feet, traversed by countless footsteps, have become smooth and warm. Walking along them, you feel the weight of history, as if you can touch the veins of time. At No. 7 Xiansheng Hill, the cafe called "Fang Kong" stands like a tranquil haven amidst the hustle and bustle. On a leisurely afternoon, the sun shines through the mottled leaves onto the window. Light a cup of fragrant coffee and let your thoughts drift freely with the rising hot steam. What a pleasant time it is.

Today, under the afterglow of history, Kunming has meticulously crafted these narrow streets, giving them a new lease of life. They have become the most historically charming streetscape by Cuihu Lake, a spiritual haven for people to explore history and feel the passage of time. Lin Huiyin once wrote affectionately in "To Fei Weime": "Kunming is always so beautiful, whether it's sunny or rainy. The view outside my window is particularly moving before and after thunderstorms. In the rain, the room has an indescribable romantic atmosphere - the sky and the earth suddenly darken together, and I am alone in a deserted house with a large, quiet garden outside. It is an experience that no one can forget." "Xianshengpo" - these three simple words, plain yet elegant, reveal a faint sense of light, and are filled with a strong scholarly atmosphere that is intoxicating. "Xianshengpo" walks briskly down to Cuihu Park. Cuihu Park, located at the foot of Luofeng Mountain in Kunming city and on the western foot of Wuhua Mountain, faces the main gate of Yunnan University and enjoys the reputation of "Jade in the City". Originally named "Cai Haizi," it was once a bay of Dianchi Lake. Later, due to the drop in water levels, it became a clear lake. In the early years of the Republic of China, it was converted into a garden and later named Cuihu. Its fame of "Cui Di Chun Xiao" spread far and wide.

Cuihu Lake photographed from the roadside. When discussing Kunming, Green Lake is a constant topic. Described by Wang Zengqi as "Kunming's eyes," he lamented, "Hangzhou's West Lake, Jinan's Daming Lake, Yangzhou's Slender West Lake—yet these lakes lack such a close relationship with their cities. It seems that even if these lakes were removed, the cities would still be cities. Green Lake, however, cannot be removed. Without it, Kunming would no longer be Kunming." The beauty of Green Lake lies not only in its picturesque scenery but also in its profound cultural heritage. Its waters embody half of Kunming's history, and Green Lake and its surrounding area embody Kunming's richest historical and cultural resources. The sloping lanes surrounding Green Lake carry the memories of generations of Kunming residents. Every inch of land bears the traces of time's vicissitudes, and those stories, quietly fermenting and growing richer with time, feel like stepping into a green wonderland forgotten by time. The lake's waters are crystal clear, revealing swaying water plants at the bottom. Slender, verdant bamboos sway gently in the breeze, creating a rustling sound that seems to whisper a natural ballad. A variety of flowers, plants, and trees flourish, exuding enchanting fragrance. This is especially true of the vast expanses of poppies lining the lakeshore. Red like fire, yellow like gold, white like snow, and orange like the sunset glow, they sway gently in the breeze, seeming to wave and smile warmly to every visitor, allowing one to truly experience nature's unreserved gifts and beauty. Dianchun Garden is part of a boutique camellia garden. The plaque above the garden's entrance, "Xia Can Ou Xiang," refers to the fiery camellia blossoms and soaring white seagulls. The flanking couplets embody a line from a poem about camellia by Yang Shen (Yang Sheng'an), a Ming Dynasty scholar and writer who lived in Yunnan for over 30 years: "Thousands of branches shine on the water from the sea, a thousand miles west of the city, warm and radiant."

A curved wall, painted with lotus flowers, lotus leaves, and a long corridor, has made "Kunming Green Lake" a popular check-in spot. Within the four large characters are densely packed smaller characters. Zooming in on the photo reveals the smaller characters within "Kun" describing the Eighteen Weird Things of Yunnan.

The words within the flowers or palm-shaped shapes in this image represent the names of slopes scattered throughout Kunming. Within the park, Ruan Causeway, running north and south, was built in 1834 with funds from Ruan Yuan, the Governor-General of Yunnan and Guizhou. Like a winding jade belt, it spans Green Lake. Tang Causeway, running east and west, was built in 1919 with funds from Tang Jiyao, then Commander-in-Chief of the Yunnan, Sichuan, and Guizhou National Revolutionary Army under Sun Yat-sen. These two long causeways cleverly divide Green Lake into four sections. Willow trees sway along the embankments, their slender branches swaying in the wind like strands of young girl's hair. Lotuses once bloomed within the lake, but now that it's not blooming season, the graceful blossoms are nowhere to be seen. The contrast between the pink petals and the emerald green leaves creates a refreshing and beautiful scene. Two long causeways divide Green Lake into five distinct scenic areas: the Heart of the Lake Island Scenic Area features Qing Dynasty buildings such as the Heart of the Lake Pavilion and the Fish-Watching Tower, whose soaring eaves and brackets evoke a quaint elegance. To the southeast, the Water Moon Pavilion and Goldfish Island offer a tranquil and lively atmosphere, with goldfish swimming happily in the water. To the northeast, Bamboo Forest Island and Nine Dragon Pond, surrounded by lush bamboo, offer a tranquil and peaceful atmosphere. To the south, Huludao Island and the Nine-Curve Bridge are uniquely designed and full of interest. To the west, the Sea Heart Pavilion, surrounded by clear waters, shines like a dazzling pearl. Since 1985, every winter, large numbers of seagulls have made the long journey from distant Siberia to Kunming to spend the winter, some of which choose to roost in Green Lake. Their pure white silhouettes swirl and soar above the lake, creating a harmonious and beautiful scene against the shimmering waters and lush trees. This makes Green Lake a prime winter destination for birdwatching. This wondrous sight vividly reflects Kunming's four-seasonal springtime. On the lake's central island are three historic sites from the Qing Dynasty: the Biyi Pavilion (Huxin Pavilion), the Guanyu Tower, and the Lianhua Zen Temple. Biyi Pavilion, along with the Haixin Pavilion and Laishuang Tower, were all built in 1692 (the 31st year of the Kangxi Emperor's reign), by Fan Chengxun, Governor-General of Yunnan and Guizhou, and Wang Jiwen, Governor of Yunnan. The Biyi Pavilion, with its sweeping eaves and emerald tiles, bears a couplet: "Wind and rain stir the fish and dragons, the Dragon Pond shatters the red lotus; painted buildings reflect, the skylight bathes the emerald glass." Haixin Pavilion, built during the reign of Emperor Kangxi, features square double-eaved roofs and glazed green tiles that gleam in the sunlight. In the 11th year of the Kangxi reign (1692), Yunnan Governor Wang Jiwen meticulously constructed the Biyi Pavilion on the lake's central island and the Laishuang Tower on the lake's northern shore, simultaneously completing the Haixin Pavilion. Flanked by tall buildings to the east and a long corridor to the west, the pavilion stands firmly in the center of the lake, like a sage who has weathered the passage of time. Here, the poems and couplets on plaques carry the sentiments and wisdom of the ancients; exquisite stone carvings depict flowers, birds, fish, insects, and historical allusions. Every detail evokes the atmosphere of ancient history, inviting one to immerse themselves in the long river of history. Built in 1835 during the reign of Emperor Daoguang of the Qing Dynasty, the Fish-Viewing Tower is a garden imbued with Jiangnan characteristics. In addition to the Guanyu Tower, the Biyi Pavilion is also hidden within the garden. Within the Guanyu Tower garden, pavilions and terraces are arranged in an orderly manner, complementing each other like an elegant ink painting. The slightly yellowed leaves of the ginkgo trees, shimmering golden in the sunlight, add a touch of poetry and romance to this ancient garden.

Xianquting, Youyouting

A plaque with the words "Secluded Land on Earth" hangs high above the temple. These four words aptly depict the tranquility and beauty of this place, making people feel as if they are out of this world, forgetting all worries and noise.

Besides its beautiful scenery and famous people, Green Lake has also made significant contributions to Kunming. In 1915, Kunming's first waterworks pumping station was built on Green Lake to pump water from Jiulong Pond up to Wuhua Mountain for filtration and drinking water for Kunming residents. The site of this pumping station now houses the Kunming Tap Water History Museum.

Kunming residents love Green Lake, and they also deeply cherish the city's renowned musician Nie Er. A statue of Nie Er stands at Haigeng Dam, and in 1985, another statue was erected on Huludao Island within Green Lake.

The colorful poppies by the lake are in particularly gorgeous bloom.

"Having hurried through the bustling city and the rigid, dull office work, upon entering Green Lake, one instantly feels relaxed; the pressures of life, the daily necessities, the grievances and worries, are all diluted. Green Lake provides the people of Kunming with so much worldly comfort and spiritual healing every day. Therefore, the people of Kunming—including those who have come from outside—are filled with gratitude for Green Lake." This is what Wang Zengqi wrote in his article "Green Lake's Heart Shadow."